DROPS / 124 / 3

Warm Hug by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS blanket with squares in different structured patterns in ”Nepal”.

Tags: blankets, cable, square,
  • Warm Hug / DROPS 124-3 - Knitted DROPS blanket with squares in different structured patterns in ”Nepal”.
  • Warm Hug / DROPS 124-3 - Knitted DROPS blanket with squares in different structured patterns in ”Nepal”.
  • Warm Hug / DROPS 124-3 - Knitted DROPS blanket with squares in different structured patterns in ”Nepal”.
DROPS design: Pattern no NE-001
Yarn group C
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Measurements:
Width: approx 96 cm.
Length: approx 126 cm.

Materials: DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
1100 g colour no 0100, off-white

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) size 5 mm - for border

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Nepal uni colour DROPS Nepal uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Nepal mix DROPS Nepal mix 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 48.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN: See diagram M.1 to M.4. Diagram shows the pattern from RS.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.
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BLANKET:
Each square worked back and forth on needle.
Knit 5 of each type of square = a total of 20 squares.

SQUARE 1:
Cast on 38 sts on needle size 5 mm with Nepal. K 1 row from RS and K 1 row from WS. Now K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME inc 12 sts evenly (do not inc on the 2 sts each side) = 50 sts. P 1 row from WS and continue in M.1. After 1 vertical repeat of M.1 K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME dec 12 sts evenly (do not dec on the 2 sts each side) = 38 sts. K 1 row from WS and K 1 row from RS. Now cast off from WS with K sts.

SQUARE 2:
Cast on 38 sts on needle size 5 mm with Nepal. K 1 row from RS and K 1 row from WS. Now K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME inc 7 sts evenly (do not inc on the 2 sts each side) = 45 sts. P 1 row from WS and continue in M.2 until square measures approx 1 cm less than square 1. K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME dec 7 sts evenly (do not dec on the 2 sts each side) = 38 sts. K 1 row from WS and K 1 row from RS. Now cast off from WS with K sts.

SQUARE 3:
Cast on 38 sts on needle size 5 mm with Nepal. K 1 row from RS, K 1 row from WS, K 1 row RS and P 1 row from WS. Now continue in M.3 with 1 garter st each side until square measures approx 1 cm less than square 1 (adjust to a half or full repeat). Now K 1 row from RS, K 1 row from WS, K 1 row RS and cast off from WS in K sts.

SQUARE 4:
Cast on 38 sts on needle size 5 mm with Nepal. K 1 row from RS and K 1 row from WS. Now K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME inc 18 sts evenly (do not inc on the 2 sts each side) = 56 sts. P 1 row from WS and continue in M.4 until square measures approx 1 cm less than square 1 (adjust to after 3 rows after a cable). K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME dec 18 sts evenly (do not dec on the 2 sts each side) = 38 sts. K 1 row from WS and K 1 row from RS. Now cast off from WS with K sts.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew tog the squares as shown in Fig.1. Number indicates type of square and the arrow the knitting direction. Sew tog edge to edge in outer loops of sts to avoid a chunky seam.

BORDER:
Worked in garter st, i.e. K all rows. Pick up sts along one short side on circular needle size 5 mm with Nepal. Pick up 1 st in each st (also pick up in transitions between squares). Work garter st back and forth on needle until edge measures approx 4 cm. Cast off.

Knit a similar border along the other short side.

Pick up sts in the same way along the long side, also pick up sts along the 8 cm border on the short side, and work garter st back and forth on needle until border measures approx 4 cm. Cast off.
Repeat along the other long side.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 26.01.2017
Small correction in chart M.1
Updated online: 04.07.2018
The border is 4 cm on all sides. (previously 8 cm on the shorter sides)

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K3, P1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P1, K3 from cable needle
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 124-3) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (207)

country flag Lisbeth Brandt Simonsen 02.04.2021 - 20:08:

M1: Slå masker op, vend strikketøj lig vr. Pind. =Første pind. Næste pind retside , =anden pind .Næste pind og dermed tredje pind vrang. Det er så denne tredie pind, der skal tages ud? Men der står tages ud fra retten i opskriften. Kan du guide mig til korrekt start, forstår ikke den måde at strikke på. Hilsen Lisbeth

user icon DROPS Design 07.04.2021 kl. 15:16:

Hei Lisbeth. Legg opp, strikk 1 pinne rett fra retten (1. rad/retten), 1 pinne rett fra vrangen (2.rad/vrangen), så strikkes det 1 pinne fra retten der det økes med 12 masker jevnt fordelt (3. rad/retten), deretter strikkes det 1 pinne vrang fra vrangen (4. rad/vrangen). Når du skal strikke etter M.1 starter du fra retten (5. rad/retten du strikker). God Fornøyelse!

country flag Linda Bertolino 25.02.2021 - 13:35:

Can I get this in English?

user icon DROPS Design 25.02.2021 kl. 16:32:

Dear Mrs Bertolino, sure, click on the scroll down menu below the photo to change language. Happy knitting!

country flag Martina 24.02.2021 - 07:14:

Haben sie einen Tip was für eine Stricknadel für die Kanten zum benützen da es doch ziemlich lang ist.

user icon DROPS Design 24.02.2021 kl. 08:01:

Liebe Martina, Sie können die Maschen über 2 Rundnadel verteilen, das kann Ihnen vielleicht helfen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Danielle Poitras 27.01.2021 - 16:08:

Bonjour Dans ce modèle, (Warm Hur) les 4 carrés ont ils le même nombre de rang . A partir du carré 1 = 3 rang début avec l'augmentation + 56 rang modèle + 3 rang + 1 rang pour rabattre. donc 63 rang ou je dois mesurer le 1 cm de moins que le carré 1 sans me préoccuper des rangs. Merci

user icon DROPS Design 28.01.2021 kl. 09:03:

Bonjour Mme Poitras, il doit vous rester 3 rangs à faire: 1 rang de diminutions + 1 rang sur l'envers + 1 rang sur l'endroit. Prenez en repère ces 3 mêmes rangs que vous avez tricoté à la fin du carré-1. Bon tricot!

country flag Vasiliki Michalopoulou 16.01.2021 - 18:02:

Good evening! I would like you to guide me on how to increase the dimensions of the blanket.thankyou),

user icon DROPS Design 18.01.2021 kl. 08:45:

Dear Mrs Michalopoulou, we are unfortunately not able to adjust every pattern to every single request, please contact your DROPS store for any individual assistance. Thanks for your comprehension. Happy knitting!

country flag Nathalie Lagrange 12.01.2021 - 17:09:

Bonsoir ! Un grand merci pour la réponse à la question que je vous ai posée hier à propos des modifications ! Rapidité efficacité merci encore Bien à vous Nathalie Lagrange

country flag Nathalie Lagrange 11.01.2021 - 11:13:

Bonjour Je suis un peu ennuyée car il est signalé une modification sur ce modèle et en cliquant sur le lien je ne vois aucune explication de changement Pouvez vous me Renseigner svp? D’avance merci c’est un si joli modèle que j’ai hâte de le commencer Cordialement Bonne journée Nathalie

user icon DROPS Design 11.01.2021 kl. 14:17:

Bonjour Mme Lagrange, si vous avez imprimé les explications après la date des deux corrections, le modèle est à jour; si vous l'aviez imprimé auparavant, il peut être sage de les imprimer à nouveau pour avoir la totalité des explications et des diagrammes corrects. Bon tricot!

country flag Elisabeth Bürger 13.12.2020 - 20:40:

Hallo,die 20 Rechtecke sind fertig. Nun habe ich grosse Schwierigkeiten, die unterschiedlichen Ränder (Knötchenrand, Abkettrand und Anschlagrand) zusammenzunähen.

user icon DROPS Design 14.12.2020 kl. 09:27:

Liebe Frau Bürger, wenn Sie die Randmaschen krausrechts zusammennähen, dann folgen Sie dieses Video - wenn Sie das Abkettrand/Anschlagsrand auf der Seite wie beim diesen Video und Anschlagsrand mit Abkettrand wie beim diesen Video. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Odette De Wit 22.11.2020 - 18:33:

M1 begint toch met naald aan de goede kant? Mijn vierkant ziet er anders uit dan op het plaatje, de kabel is zichtbaar op de verkeerde kant, en is dan in ribbelsteek met daaromheen tricotsteek. Ziet er totaal anders uit dan plaatje. Wat doe ik fout?

user icon DROPS Design 24.11.2020 kl. 13:44:

Dag Odette,

Ja, M.1 begint inderdaad op de goede kant. Alle telpatronen beginnen altijd op de goede kant, tenzij anders aangegeven. Je breit van onder naar boven en je leest van rechts naar links op de goede kant (en van links naar rechts als je de op de verkeerde kant aan het breien bent.) Alle naalden zijn aangegeven in het telpatroon, dus ook de naalden aan de verkeerde kant.

country flag MARTINE FRAMMERY 17.11.2020 - 15:18:

Ai fait ce modèle. Résultat parfait et je l'utilise comme plaid en hiver. Bien chaud! Je pense refaire ce modèle avec d'autre dimensions comme couverture d'appoint. Merci pour tous ces modèles.

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