Pixie Dreams by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS slippers in ”Nepal”.

Keywords: lace, slippers
DROPS design: Pattern no NE-019
Size: 35/37 - 38/40 - 41/43
Foot length: approx 22 - 24 - 27 cm

Materials: DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
150 g for all sizes colour no 3112, powder pink

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4 mm - or size needed to get 14 dc x 20 rounds = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS LIGHT WOODEN BUTTON NO 501: 4 pcs for all sizes.


Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Nepal uni colour DROPS Nepal uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Nepal mix DROPS Nepal mix 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Replace first dc on round/row with 1 ch. Replace first tr on round/row with 3 ch. Finish each round/row with 1 sl st in 1st/3rd ch from beg of round, (in 1st/3rd ch from beg of previous row when working back and forth).
PATTERN: See diagram M.1 and M.2.

Beg with the toe. Crochet with crochet hook size 4 mm and Nepal.
ROUND 1: Crochet 3 ch and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 2: 5-5-6 dc in ring – See CROCHET INFO!
ROUND 3: 2 dc in each dc = 10-10-12 dc.
ROUND 4: *1 dc in first dc, 2 dc in next dc*, repeat from *-* to end = 15-15-18 dc.
ROUND 5-7: 1 dc in each dc.
ROUND 8: *1 dc in first dc, 1 dc in 2nd dc and 2 dc in 3rd dc*, repeat from *-* to end = 20-20-24 dc.
ROUND 9: *1 dc in each of the first 3 dc, and 2 dc in 4th dc*, repeat from *-* to end = 25-25-30 dc.
ROUND 10: *1 dc in each of the first 4 dc, and 2 dc in 5th dc*, repeat from *-* to end = 30-30-36 dc.
Continue with 1 dc in each dc until piece measures 6-6-7 cm. Now continue in M.1 in the round. Work M.1A, then repeat M.1B and finish with 1 sl st in st from beg of round. Continue like this until piece measures approx 11-13-14 cm.

Now divide piece and continue back and forth from mid upper foot in M.2, work M.2A, then repeat M.2B and finish with M.2C. When the slipper measures approx 22-24-27 cm place it flat and crochet tog mid back with a row of dc through both layers. Cut and fasten thread.

Crochet 1 row of dc round the opening of slipper (beg mid front). When you are back at the beg work 12 ch (for flap), turn and work 1 dc in each of these ch. Now continue back and forth with 1 dc in each dc until leg measures 8 cm. Cut and fasten thread.
LEFT SLIPPER: Beg with 12 ch, then work 1 row of dc round the opening (beg mid front). When you are back at the beg turn and work 1 dc in each dc and 1 dc in each ch. Now continue back and forth with 1 dc in each dc until leg measures 8 cm. Cut and fasten thread.

Sew 2 decorative buttons through both layers on the flap.


symbols = dc
symbols = work 1 tr, but wait with last pull-through (= 2 sts on hook), work next tr, but when doing the last pull-through pull thread through all sts on hook.
symbols = ch
symbols = sl st
symbols = tr

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 123-24) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (57)

country flag Akira wrote:

Wenn man mit der Ferse fertig ist wie geht das weiter Wo setze ich genau an Häkel ich nicht gleich die Öffnung für den schaft Das mit der Bearbeitung für den schaft versteh ich nicht ganz

24.11.2020 - 22:07

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Akira, dieses Video zeigt am 1.55 wie man den Schaft häkelt - hier sollen Sie aber dazu 12 Luftmaschen am Ende der 1. Reihe häkeln, dh nicht in Runden dann wie im Video weiterhäkeln. Hoffentlich kann es Ihnen weiterhelfen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

25.11.2020 kl. 07:46

country flag Adriana Guerra wrote:

Pagina genial

15.04.2019 - 02:37

country flag Kelsey wrote:

Hi there.... if I didn't want the slippers to be that hole-y could I just continue to single crochet all the way up the foot? Are there any special steps I should follow to do that?

17.09.2018 - 15:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kelsey, you can continue with single crochets if you rather like to, just continue adjusting to the length/number of rows required for your size. Happy crocheting!

17.09.2018 kl. 17:39

Susan wrote:

My daughter bought her wool while on holiday so there is no hope of her going back to shop in America to ask about pattern. She is new to diagram patterns having only used worded patterns before. The M1 /M2 part has got her foxed. Not very good for her.

01.04.2018 - 23:27

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Susan, you can always contact your DROPS store, even per mail or on social medias (see their profile). Whenw working diagram, each symbol is the key to one stitch/group of st. Start reading diagrams from the bottom corner on the right side towards the left from RS and from the left towards the right from WS. Happy crocheting!

03.04.2018 kl. 08:55

country flag Marlies Monster wrote:

Begrijp ik het goed dat je bij patroon m1a eerst 2x een tour met vaste moet haken en daarna een tour met noem maar even twee samen gestelde stokjes.

13.10.2017 - 21:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hallo Marlies, Bij telpatroon M.1 is de eerste toer (dus niet de eerste 2 toeren), een toer met vasten. (= P.s.: De eerste vaste op de toer wordt vervangen door een losse (zie 'informatie voor het haken' bovenaan het patroon), deze wordt in het telptroon aangegeven met een verticaal streepje.

04.11.2017 kl. 14:19

country flag Johanne Elise Reianes wrote:

Hei! Jeg har problemer med og forstå diagrammet, og jeg ser jeg ikke er alene. Kan dere legge ut en bedre forklaring? I diagrammet er det en stav i slutten av første runde med st sammen, det kan vel ikke være riktig, denne står alene single st? Og i andre omg med staver sammen er det en single st som kommer hver tredje sammenhekling, slik ser det ikke ut på bildet.. Der er det to og to staver sammen rundt hele...

10.05.2016 - 20:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Johanne. Som jeg forstaar det saa hekler du staver sammen men 1 lm mellem hver og den sidste single stav er til afslutning paa omg. (og kun der).

13.05.2016 kl. 12:24

Salima wrote:

How we do drops by video please and thanks

09.12.2015 - 09:33

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Salima, the video below shows how to work the slipper - but remember to follow the pattern at the same time, video is only showing technique and construction. Happy crocheting!

09.12.2015 kl. 10:12

country flag Sara wrote:

Hej! Har tittat på det här mönstret ett tag nu och har äntligen bestämt mig för att börja virka. Mitt problem är att jag har hittat ett garn som kräver en virknål i storlek 5 mm. Om jag följer beskrivningen, hur mycket kommer resultatet påverkas??

26.09.2015 - 19:59

DROPS Design answered:

Hej För att få rätt storlek på dessa tofflor krävs denna stickfasthet: "DROPS VIRKNÅL NR 4 – eller den virknål du måste ha för att få 14 fm x 20 v på 10 x 10 cm." Gör en provlapp för att se så du får dessa mått. Lycka till!

30.09.2015 kl. 11:16

Jessica wrote:

What does the 5-5-6 mean and to see crochet info? I replace the 5 with part one of crochet info? Anyone know?

19.05.2015 - 03:15

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jessica, this pattern is written in 3 sizes. In first 2 sizes you will crochet 5 sts in ch-ring, in largest size you will crochet 6 sts in ch-ring. Depending on your size follow first, 2nd or 3rd number. Happy crocheting!

19.05.2015 kl. 08:29

country flag Virginia Glynn wrote:

Where can I go to find help with this pattern. I've try to do this pattern but confused on how to read your diagram please help I would really like to do this for my daughter. I did not buy the yarn from a yarn shop for I live in Oklahoma and the nearest yarn shop is 2 hours away so I can't go to a yarn shop to ask if you can write out the diagram for me maybe I can understand this is very confusing thank you

15.12.2014 - 15:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Glynn, in the diagram each st/group of sts is represented by a symbol (see under diagram text), read diagram starting at the bottom corner on the right side and work towards the left every round (M.1) - or when working in rows, read RS rows from right to the left and WS rows from left to the right. You can get our yarns here in the USA, and then contact them by mail when you need assistance with a pattern. Happy crocheting!

15.12.2014 kl. 17:31

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