DROPS Baby / 10 / 24

Cherub Stripes by DROPS Design

DROPS jacket or jumper with stripes

Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12 months – 2 – 3/4 years
Size in cm: 50/56 – 62/68 – 74/80 - 86/92 -98/104

Materials: DROPS Baby-Merino from Garnstudio

Jumper and colour way 1-blue:
Colour 1: 50-50-50-50-100 g colour no 33, electric blue
Colour 2: 50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 09, lime
Colour 3: 50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 38, olive
Colour 4: 50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 02, off white
Colour 5: 50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 32, turquoise
Colour 6: 50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 13, navy blue

Jumper and colour way 2-red:
Colour 1: 50-50-50-100-100 g colour no 08,cerise
Colour 2: 50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 07, pink
Colour 3: 50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 03, light yellow
Colour 4: 50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 04, yellow
Colour 5: 50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 36, orange
Colour 6: 50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 34, heather

Jacket and colour way 3-red:
Colour 1: 50-50-50-50-100 g colour no 16, red
Colour 2: 50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 09, lime
Colour 3: 50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 38, olive
Colour 4: 50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 02, off white
Colour 5: 50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 36, orange
Colour 6: 50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 34, heather

DROPS needles size 2.5 and 3 mm

DROPS Smily button, 5 pcs for jacket in colour to match choice of colour way.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
JUMPER and JACKET:
Knitting tension: 25 sts x 33 in stocking st on needle size 3 mm = 10 x 10 cm

Garter st (back and forth): knit all rows.
--------------------------------------------------------------------

Back piece jumper and jacket: Cast on 64-72-80-92-98 sts (incl 1 edge st each side) with Colour 1 and knit 4 rows garter st. Change to needle size 3 mm and continue in stocking st and M.1. Remember the knitting tension!

When piece measures 17-18-21-24-25 cm cast off for armhole each side on every other row: 3 sts 1-1-1-1-1 time, 2 sts 2-2-2-3-3 times and 1 st 5-6-5-7-5 times = 40-46-56-60-70 sts.
When piece measures 25-27-31-35-38 cm cast off the middle 18-20-22-24-24 sts for neck and dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 1 sts in total 2-2-2-2-2 times = 9-11-15-16-21 sts left on each shoulder.
Cast off remaining sts when piece measures 27-29-33-37-40 cm.

Front piece jumper: Cast on and knit as back piece. Dec for armhole as described for back piece. At the same time when piece measures 18-19-22-25-28 cm P 1 row over the middle 4 sts. Now divide the piece for neck split and finish each side separately (put sts from one half on a thread). Continue in stripe pattern and stocking sts with 2 sts towards neck split in garter st.
When piece measures 23-24-28-31-34 cm cast off 5-6-6-7-7 sts towards mid front and dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 2 sts 1-1-1-1-1 time and 1 st 4-4-5-5-5 times = 9-11-15-16-21 sts left on shoulder.
Cast off remaining sts when piece measures 27-29-33-37-40 cm.
Put sts from thread back on needle and knit the other side.

Right front piece jacket: Cast on 33-37-41-47-50 sts (incl 1 edge st at side and towards mid front) on needle size 2.5 mm with with Colour 1 and knit 4 rows garter st. Change to needle size 3 mm and continue in chart M.1 and stocking st.
When piece measures 17-18-21-24-25 cm dec for armhole as described for back piece = 21-24-29-31-36 sts.
When piece measures 23-24-28-31-34 cm cast off 6-7-7-8-8 sts towards mid front and dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 2 sts 1-1-1-1-1 time and 1 st 4-4-5-5-5 times = 9-11-15-16-21 sts left on shoulder. Cast off remaining sts when piece measures 27-29-33-37-40 cm.

Left front piece jacket: Cast on and knit as right front piece, but mirrored.

Sleeve, jumper and jacket: Cast on 40-42-44-48-50 sts (incl 1 edge st each side) on needle size 2.5 mm with Colour 1 and knit 4 rows garter sts. Change to needle size 3 mm and continue in M.1 and stocking st. When piece measures 4-4-4-5-5 cm inc 1 st each side a total of 5-5-6-7-11 times as follows:
Size:1/3 months: alternate between every 9 and 10 row.
Size 6/9 months, 1 + 2 years: on every 9 row
Size 3/4 years: on every 7 row= 50-52-56-62-72 sts.
When sleeve measures 18-19-21-24 -28 cm cast off for sleeve cap each side on every other row as follows: 3 sts1 time, 2 sts 2-1-2-2-3 times, 1 st 5-8-7-7-2 times and 2 sts until piece measures 24-26-28-32-35 cm.
Cast off remaining sts.

Pocket, jumper: The pocket is knitted from side to side. Cast on 20-23-25-26-30 sts on needle size 2.5 mm with Colour 1 and knit 4 rows garter st. Change to needle size 3 mm and continue in chart M.1 and stocking st with 1 st each side in garter.
When piece measures 14-15-16-17-18 cm knit 4 rows garter st and cast off.
Attach fringes each side. 1 fringe = Cut 4 threads in desired colours measuring 10 cm each and fold them double.
Tie a tassel in the outermost garter st by pulling the ends through the loop on each side of the pocket with approx 2 cm between each.

Assembly jumper: Sew shoulder seams. Pick up approx 55 to 70 sts round the neck on needle size 2.5 mm with Colour 1 – begin mid front by the split. Knit 4 rows garter st and cast off.
Set in sleeves and sew sleeve and side seam inside 1 edge st.
Cut 1 thread with Colour 1 measuring approx 2 meters. Twist the thread into a ribbon and pull it through on both sides of the split, just under the garter st edge. Make 2 tassels and attach to the ends of the ribbon. Sew on pocket 7-8-9-10-11 cm from the bottom edge in the upper and lower edges, i.e. the opening will be sideways.

Assembly jacket: Sew shoulder seams. Pick up approx 60-90 sts along left front edge on needle size 2.5 mm with Colour 1 and knit 2 cm Rib. Cast off and repeat along right front edge, but after 0.5 cm make 5 buttonholes evenly on row – the top one approx 0.5 cm from edge and the bottom one approx 11 cm from edge.
1 buttonhole = cast off 1 st and cast on new st in the same place on the return row.
Pick up 55 to 70 sts round the neck, also over the front edges, on needle size 2.5 mm with Colour 1. Knit 4 rows garter st and cast off. Set in sleeves and sew sleeve and side seam inside 1 edge st.

Fringes: If you like you can attach fringes along front and back bottom edge. 1 fringe = Cut 4 threads in desired colours measuring 15 cm each and fold them double. Tie the tassels with approx 3 cm between each in the 2nd row of garter st by pulling the ends through the loop.

Diagram

= Colour 1
= Colour 2
= Colour 3
= Colour 4
= Colour 5
= Colour 6


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 10-24) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (9)

Christine Poetsch 08.10.2018 - 12:03:

Das Modell sieht sehr hübsch aus .. die Wolle lässt sich gut verarbeiten aber die Mengenangabe stimmt nicht. ich muss jetzt für fast 10 € ein knäuel nachkaufen (porto)...macht mich ärgerlich... trotzdem bin ich nicht unzufrieden..lg CP

DROPS Design 08.10.2018 kl. 14:17:

Liebe Frau Poetsch, stimmt Ihre Maschenprobe in der Breite sowie in der Höhe? Wir haben bis jetzt keine ähnlichen Hinweis gehabt, welche Größe stricken Sie?

Anna 16.01.2018 - 20:51:

Buonasera, come si fa a cucire la tasca?Nella terza foto la bambina indossa la taglia 2 anni? Grazie per la risposta!

DROPS Design 25.07.2018 kl. 14:53:

Buongiorno Anna , per la cucitura della tasca faccia riferimento al paragrafo "Confezione - maglione". Buon lavoro!

Jan 19.10.2016 - 16:04:

Can you please clarify the following part of the sleeve directions. I can follow it as far as 1 st x times but then it says "and 2 sts until piece measures x cm". Does that mean 2 sts once or what? A final stitch count would have helped me work this ambiguous bit out but this time it's not given :( Many thanks Jan

DROPS Design 19.10.2016 kl. 16:33:

Dear Jan, for the top of sleeve, cast off 2 sts at the beg of every row both from RS and WS (= on each side) until sleeve measures the required height for the size worked, the number of dec will vary depening on your tension. Happy knitting!

Annika Ericson 22.09.2016 - 11:54:

Jättefin tröja. Har börjat, men inser att jag ibland måste klippa av tråden och börja om. Garnet är svårt att knyta och liksom "glider" isär. Gärna tips o ideér.

DROPS Design 27.09.2016 kl. 16:19:

Hej Annika. Jeg har brugt to mindre nögler naar jeg strikker striber, hvor de ender "i hver sin ende", saa kan jeg lade garnet fölge med op i kanten og saa bruge naar det skal uden at klippe traaden.

Charlotte 05.08.2016 - 12:13:

Hej, jeg er i tvivl om garnforbruget. Vil gerne strikke blusen i str 6-9 mdr i kun 2 farver. Hvor mange nøgler a 50 gr skal jeg beregne? : )

DROPS Design 26.08.2016 kl. 14:22:

Hej Charlotte. I alt bruges 6 nögler, saa ville jeg sige 3 af hver. God fornöjelse.

Marie-Hélène 05.05.2016 - 20:47:

Bonjour. Pourriez-vous m,expliquer votre calcul au niveau de l, encolure du gilet En 2 ans on part de 56 m puis on arrete les 22 m centrales on diminue tous les 2 rgs 2 m puis 5 fois 1m .Comment arrivez-vous a 15m pour chaque épaule. Merci de m,éclairer!

DROPS Design 06.05.2016 kl. 08:54:

Bonjour Marie-Hélène, une erreur s'était glissée dans les diminutions de l'encolure dos du gilet, après les mailles de l'encolure, on rabat 2x1 m côté encolure seulement. La correction a été faite, merci. Bon tricot!

Anne-Grete 18.06.2012 - 20:49:

Hej. Har strikket både for- og bagstykke, da jeg opdager, at der ikke er opskrift på ærmer.Kan I hjælpe ????

DROPS Design 18.07.2012 kl. 08:42:

Jo da, ærmerne er lige efter venstre forstykke. God fornøjelse!

DROPS Design NL 05.07.2011 - 10:03:

Hallo Els. Kijk onder de dropdown menu Assortiment en kies: Niet meer leverbare kwaliteiten. Hier kan je beide kwaliteiten terugvinden incl. info over looplengtes enzo. Succes.

Els 04.07.2011 - 20:50:

Hallo, dit is een leuk patroontje, en zou ermee aan de slag willen. Enkel, er staat wel het aantal gram garen dat nodig is per kleur. Maar aangezien dit garen niet meer in voorraad is, kan ik nergens de looplengte vinden van zo'n bol van 50gr. Kan u het me even laten weten, aub. Hartelijk bedankt! els

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Baby 10-24

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.