DROPS / 119 / 7

Odette by DROPS Design

DROPS top in ”Alpaca” with shirred pattern on yoke. Size S - XXXL

  • Odette / DROPS 119-7 - DROPS top in ”Alpaca” with shirred pattern on yoke. Size S - XXXL
  • Odette / DROPS 119-7 - DROPS top in ”Alpaca” with shirred pattern on yoke. Size S - XXXL
  • Odette / DROPS 119-7 - DROPS top in ”Alpaca” with shirred pattern on yoke. Size S - XXXL
DROPS design: Pattern no Z-480
--------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
250-300-350-400-450-500 g colour no 7120, light grey/green
Note: This design can only be made with yarn from group A.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) size 3 mm – or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking st with 1 thread = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) size 4 mm – for garter st.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) size 5 mm – or size needed to get 19 sts x 25 rows stocking st with 1 thread = 10 x 10 cm.

-------------------------------------------------------
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
-------------------------------------------------------


100% Alpaca
from 2.25 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 2.25 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.25£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (in the round): K 1 round, P 1 round.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.
DECREASING TIP-1 (applies to body piece):
Dec as follows BEFORE marker: K2 tog.
Dec as follows AFTER marker: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
DECREASING TIP-2 (applies to armhole):
Make all dec for armhole from RS inside 3 garter sts.
Dec as follows AFTER 3 sts: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
Dec as follows BEFORE 3 sts: K2 tog.
--------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------
BODY PIECE:
Worked in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 200-220-240-264-288-312 sts on circular needle size 3 mm with 2 threads Alpaca. Insert 1 marker at beg of round and 1 marker after 100-110-120-132-144-156 sts (= the sides).
Work 6 rounds GARTER ST – see above, remove one thread and continue in stocking st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 5 cm dec 1 st each side of both markers – see DECREASING TIP-1, and repeat the dec on every 2 cm a total of 8 times = 168-188-208-232-256-280 sts. When piece measures 22-23-24-25-26-27 cm inc 1 st each side of both markers by working 2 st in 1 st, and repeat the inc on every 2 cm a total of 6 times = 192-212-232-256-280-304 sts. When piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm work 4 rounds garter st on 14-14-16-16-18-18 sts each side (= 7-7-8-8-9-9 sts each side of marker) with remaining sts in stocking st. Now cast off the middle 8-8-10-10-12-12 sts each side for armhole and complete front and back pieces separately.

FRONT PIECE:
= 88-98-106-118-128-140 sts. Continue in stocking st with 3 garter sts each side – AT THE SAME TIME on next row from RS dec 1 st each side for armhole - see DECREASING TIP-2, and repeat the dec on every row from RS a total of 2-4-4-5-5-7 times = 84-90-98-108-118-126 sts. Work 1 row from WS. Change to circular needle size 4 mm and work next row as follows from RS: K3, * K2 tog, K2 *, repeat from *-* until 9-7-7-9-11-11 sts remain, K2 tog until 3 sts remain, K these = 63-68-74-81-88-94 sts. Piece now measures approx 39-41-42-44-45-47 cm. Slip sts on a stitch holder.

BACK PIECE:
= 88-98-106-118-128-140 sts. Continue as described for front piece and slip sts on a stitch holder.

YOKE:
Worked on circular needle size 4 mm with 2 threads Alpaca.
Work sts from front piece (= 63-68-74-81-88-94 sts) back on circular needle size 4 mm, loosely cast on 42-44-46-48-52-56 new sts (= sleeve), work sts from back piece (= 63-68-74-81-88-94 sts) back on needle and loosely cast on 42-44-46-48-52-56 new sts (= sleeve) = a total of 210-224-240-258-280-300 sts.
Now complete piece in the round. P 1 round and then work 6 rounds garter st.

Change to circular needle size 5 mm and 1 thread. K2 in all sts = 420-448-480-516-560-600 sts.
Work 12-12-13-13-14-14 rounds stocking st.

Change to circular needle size 4 mm and 2 threads. K2 tog across the round = 210-224-240-258-280-300 sts.

Work next round as follows: K 2-0-0-6-0-6, * K2 tog, K 2-2-2-1-1-1, K2 tog, K 2-2-2-2-2-2 *, repeat from *-* = 158-168-180-186-200-216 sts. P 1 round and work 4 rounds garter st.

Change to circular needle size 5 mm and 1 thread. K2 in all sts = 316-336-360-372-400-432 sts.
Work 12-12-13-13-14-14 rounds stocking st.

Change to circular needle size 4 mm and 2 threads. K2 tog across the round = 158-168-180-186-200-216 sts. Work next round as follows:
SIZE S and M: K2-0, * K2 tog, K1 *, repeat from *-* = 106-112 sts.
SIZE L: K2 tog, K2 tog, * K1, K2 tog, K2 tog, K1, K2 tog *, repeat from *-* = 112 sts.
SIZE XL, XXL and XXXL: K 1-0-1, * K2 tog, K2 tog, K1 *, repeat from *-* = 112-120-130 sts.
ALL SIZES:
P 1 round and work 12 rounds garter st.
Cast off loosely. Piece measures approx 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 25.03.2010
Note: This design can only be made with yarn from group A.

Diagram

diagram measurements
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 119-7) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (40)

country flag Marie 31.03.2021 - 15:05:

Kan denne strikkes i en tråd dersom man tilpasser pinnenr og størrelse så det passer med strikkefastheten? Når man kommer til stedet der man strikker med enkelt garn så dobler man heller masketallet ved å strikke to m i en... Eller blir det helt feil? Jeg spør fordi jeg har strikket den etter oppskrift men ønsker meg en tynnere variant

user icon DROPS Design 07.04.2021 kl. 14:23:

Hei Marie. Denne modellen må strikkes med 2 tråder for å få den strukturen den har på bærestykket. Bolen strikkes kun med 1 tråd. Om du ønsker å strikke kun med 1 tråd over forstykket/bakstykket/bolen må du nesten bare prøve, men usikker på hvordan utfallet vil bli. mhv DROPS design

country flag Aleksandra 01.07.2020 - 17:31:

Bardzo dobry wzór. Łatwo się robi, ładnie wychodzi, dobrze leży. Polecam

country flag Beverly 29.02.2020 - 19:14:

The front piece size M K3, *k2tog, k2* repeat until 7stitches remain....until 3 stitches remain, k these 68 stitches. Where do these stitches come from? Decrease until 7 remain, decrease until 3 stitches remain. Where do the 68 come from?

user icon DROPS Design 02.03.2020 kl. 10:03:

Dear Beverly, you have 90 sts on needle and work: from RS: K3, * K2 tog, K2 *, repeat from *-* until 7 sts remain, K2 tog until 3 sts remain, K these last 3 stitches = there are now 68 stitches on needle. Happy knitting!

country flag Beverly 29.02.2020 - 17:40:

When i bind off for arm holes am i binding off the same stitches i have done in garter stitch on each side of marker?

user icon DROPS Design 29.02.2020 kl. 20:41:

Dear Beverly, you knit some stitches on both sides in garter stitch and then cast of the middle 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches of these, and then you will have 3 stitches knitted with garter stitch on both side of the cast off stitches ( in this way the armhole will less likely to roll later). Happy Knitting!

country flag Lara 25.10.2018 - 11:45:

Grazie, grazie molte siete sempre molto gentili!

country flag Lara 25.10.2018 - 11:14:

Grazie, ma ancora non riesco a capire quando si lavora con il ferro n. 4 le 9 maglie che rimangono a cosa si riferiscono se in totale ne devono rimanere 63. Perdonatemi ma non sono molto pratica, è il mio primo lavoro!

user icon DROPS Design 25.10.2018 kl. 11:28:

Buongiorno Lara. Deve ripetere le istruzioni tra gli * finchè sul ferro sinistro non rimangono 9 maglie. Lavora queste 9 m come segue: 2 m insieme a diritto per 3 volte e così rimangono sul ferro sinistro 3 m. Lavora queste 3 m a diritto. In tutto sui ferri ci sono ora 63 maglie. Buon lavoro!

country flag Lara 25.10.2018 - 08:55:

Salve, ho intrecciato le m. per gli scalfi, lavoro andata e ritorno ma non capisco il suggerimento per le dim. (davanti/dietro) prima e dopo il segno non essendoci più il marca punto. Inoltre non capisco:"Proseguire..lavorare il ferro successivo sul diritto del lavoro: 3 m dir, * 2 m insieme a dir, 2m dir, rip...finché non rimangono 9-7.....m, 2 m insieme a dir finché non rimangono 3 m; lavorare queste 3 m a dir = 63-68...m. Come fanno a rimanere 63m. se lavoro finchè ne rimangono 3? Grazie

user icon DROPS Design 25.10.2018 kl. 09:41:

Buongiorno Lara. Quando modella gli scalfi, deve seguire il suggerimento per le diminuzioni 2 (per gli scalfi): deve diminuire prima/ dopo le 3 maglie a legaccio. Le 63 maglie sono il numero di maglie che rimangono sul ferro dopo aver lavorato il ferro come indicato. Buon lavoro!

country flag Émilie 21.05.2018 - 11:00:

Bonjour, j'ai un doute sur la taille des aiguilles à utiliser. En effet il est indiqué d'utiliser des aiguilles 4 avec 2 fils, et des aiguilles 5 avec 1 fil, cependant des aiguilles 5 avec 1 fil cela donne un résultat très lâche, même en serrant. Je me demande donc si ce ne serait pas des aiguilles 5 avec 2 fils et des aiguilles 4 avec 1 fil ?

user icon DROPS Design 22.05.2018 kl. 09:11:

Bonjour Émilie, c'est bien ainsi que l'on procède: on tricote avec les aiguilles 4 et 2 fils et avec les aiguilles 5 et 1 seul fil pour obtenir l'effet froncé. Bon tricot!

country flag Lara 20.04.2018 - 16:02:

Buongiorno, ho qualche difficoltà a capire come si lavora il davanti e il dietro separatamente (la prima parte in particolare). Il lavoro non è più circolare sempre nello stesso verso quindi ma si gira? Inoltre le 3 maglie a punto legaccio su ciascun lato dove le colloco esattamente? C'è un video specifico? Non riesco a trovarlo! Vi ringrazio molto!

user icon DROPS Design 20.04.2018 kl. 20:03:

Buonasera Lara. Dopo aver intrecciato le maglie per gli scalfi, lavora solo sulle maglie del davanti, avanti e indietro sui ferri. Le prime tre e le ultime tre maglie sul ferro vengono lavorate a legaccio. Buon lavoro!

country flag Lara 19.04.2018 - 14:33:

Pensavo fosse un top down per questo non capivo. Grazie e speriamo di farcela!!!!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 119-7

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.