Back To Me by DROPS Design

DROPS jacket in rib with short sleeves in ”Alpaca”. Size S-XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern no Z-470

Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
350-350-400-450-500-550 g colour no 2915, orange

DROPS POINTED NEEDLES size 3 mm – or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS BUFFALO HORN BUTTON, no 537:
6 pcs.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Alpaca
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.30 £ /50g
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.
BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes on right front band.
1 buttonhole = cast off 4th and 5th st from mid front (= P2) and cast on 2 new sts on next row.
Make buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S + M: 6, 12, 18, 24, 30 and 36 cm.
SIZE L + XL: 7, 13, 19, 25, 31 and 37 cm.
SIZE XXL + XXXL: 7, 13, 20, 26, 33 and 39 cm.
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LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 87-95-103-115-127-139 sts (includes 1 edge st at the side and 9 front band sts towards mid front) on needle size 3 mm with Alpaca.
Work first row as follows from RS: 1 edge st, K1, * P2, K2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 GARTER ST - see above.
Work return row with K over K and P over P.
On next row from RS insert 2 markers in piece: marker-1 after 30-34-38-46-54-62 sts and marker-2 after 78-86-94-106-118-130 sts (9 sts after marker-2 = front band). Continue in rib as before. AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st on every row from RS by P2 tog after marker-1 and inc 1 st on every row from RS by making 1 YO before marker-2. Work YO into back of loop on return row and incorporate inc sts in rib as you go along.

When piece measures 37-37-38-38-40-40 cm (measured at the side) shape the neck by continue dec as before but discontinue inc. Do this a total of 20-24-24-28-28-32 times. Now continue with dec and inc inside the 9 front band sts as before.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 38-39-40-41-42-43 cm (measured at the side) cast off 4 sts at beg of row from RS for armhole and cast off to shape the armhole at beg of every row from RS: 2 sts 5-7-9-13-17-21 times and 1 st 1 time. When dec are complete work st on armhole in garter st until finished measurements. When all dec for armhole and neck are complete there are 52-52-56-56-60-60 sts on needle.
When piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm K 1 row from RS on all sts, AT THE SAME TIME dec 25-23-26-25-27-27 sts evenly = 27-29-30-31-33-33 sts. Continue in garter st on all sts until piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm. Cast off loosely.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Like left front piece, but mirrored. i.e. work first row from RS as follows: 1 GARTER ST - see above, * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K1 and 1 edge st.
Insert marker-1 after 9 sts (= front band), and marker-2 after 57-61-65-69-73-77 sts (= 48-52-56-60-64-68 sts between markers). Inc after marker-1 and dec before marker-2.
REMEMBER BUTTONHOLES - see above.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 190-206-222-246-270-294 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 3 mm with Alpaca. Work first row from RS as follows: 1 edge st, K1, * P2, K2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with P2, K1 and 1 edge st. Work return row with K over K and P over P.
Insert 4 markers in piece as follows: marker-1 after 30-34-38-46-54-62 sts, marker-2 after 92-100-108-120-132-144 sts, marker-3 after 98-106-114-126-138-150 sts and marker-4 after 160-172-184-200-216-232 sts (= 30-34-38-46-54-62 sts after marker-4)
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Continue in rib as before. AT THE SAME TIME dec 2 sts on every row from RS as follows: P2 tog before marker-2 and P2 tog after marker-3. Repeat this dec a total of 14 times = 162-178-194-218-242-266 sts on needle.
Now continue in rib as before and continue dec as before, AT THE SAME TIME also inc 2 sts on every row from RS as follows: Make 1 YO after marker-1 and 1 YO before marker-4. Work YO into back of loop on return row and incorporate inc sts in rib as you go along.
Continue like this until piece measures 38-39-40-41-42-43 cm (measured at the side and adjust to front piece). Now cast off 4 sts each side for armhole (NOTE! continue inc/dec as before). Cast off to shape the armhole each side at the beg of every row: 2 sts 5-7-9-13-17-21 times and 1 st 1 time = 132-140-148-156-164-172 sts. When dec are complete work st on armhole in garter st until finished measurements. Continue in rib and dec/inc as before.
When piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm K 1 row from RS on all sts, AT THE SAME TIME dec 58-60-64-68-70-74 sts evenly = 74-80-84-88-94-98 sts. K 1 row from WS and now complete piece in garter st. AT THE SAME TIME on next row cast off the middle 18-20-22-24-26-30 sts for neck and complete each shoulder separately. Cast off 1 st on neckline on next row = 27-29-30-31-33-33 sts left on shoulder. Continue until piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm and cast off loosely.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 114-118-122-126-130-134 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 3 mm with Alpaca. Work rib K2/ P2 with 1 edge st each side until piece measures 12-12-11-10-9-8 cm (less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder). Now cast off 5 sts each side and cast off to shape the sleeve cap each side at the beg of every row: 2 sts until piece measures 20 cm, now cast off 5 sts each side 1 time and cast off remaining sts. Piece measures approx 21 cm.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams. Set in sleeves inside 1 edge st. Sew sleeve and side seams inside 1 edge st. Sew on buttons.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 119-3) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (67)

country flag Felicia wrote:

Hallo, ich komme mit dem Rückenteil nicht klar: stricke ich zuerst nur die 14 Abnahmen und fange erst danach mit den Ab- und Zunahmen wie bei den Vorderteilen an? Danke für Ihre Hilfe!

20.08.2020 - 20:57

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Felicia, nach den 14 ersten Abnahmen stricken Sie jetzt die Abanahmen wie zuvor aber jeztz nehmen Sie nach der 1. und vor der 4. Markierung ab (= die Maschenanzahl bleibt jetzt die gleiche), so bekommen Sie das schräglaufende Rippenmuster am Rückenteil. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

21.08.2020 kl. 08:02

country flag Carmen-Gabriela wrote:

Hallo:) Ein wunderschönes Modell. Leider habe/hatte ich Schwierigkeiten bei rückw.Hals/Schulter. Wird nach dem Abk.f.Hals "M" nach der Rückreihe re. je 2cm re kraus bis zur Schulter gestrickt? Das sieht man auf dem Foto nicht so gut. Insges. ist dann das "V" ca. 4 cm tief. Stimmt das so? Ich habe 2cm in Rippen (ohne Zu-/Abn.) bis zur Schulterabn. gestr. u. mit 1 Kraus-Rippe beendet.

17.02.2020 - 17:43

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Carmen-Gabriela, es sind 2 cm für jeden Schulter und diese 2 cm werden kraus rechts gestrickt (= rechts alle Reihen), nach 54-64 cm stricken Sie 1 Reihe rechts mit Abnahmen, dann die Rückreihe - bei der nächsten Hinreihe ketten Sie die Maschen für den Hals ab und stricken dann die Schulter getrennet. Weiter krausrechts stricken und noch 1 Masche gegen Hals abketten. Nach 2 cm krausrechts ketten Sie die Schultermaschen ab. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

18.02.2020 kl. 09:44

country flag Annette Sandorff wrote:

Jeg synes at forkanterne på billedet virker helt anderledes end opskriften lyder. Det ser ikke ud som 9 m retstrik. De virker meget lettere og smallere. Hvordan er forkanten på modellen lavet? Kan man strikke den lidt højere I nakken ved at lukke af til nakken lidt senere, så den bliver lidt mindre bar bagtil. På forhånd tak.

20.01.2018 - 23:50

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Annette, jo det er sådan modellen er strikket, husk at ribben trækker sig sammen. Ja du er velkommen til at ændre opskriften, vi har dog ikke mulighed for at justere eller hjælpe dig med det. Held og lykke :)

30.01.2018 kl. 11:19

country flag Ingrid 1302 wrote:

Hallo, ich habe die Größe S für die Vorderteile gestrickt. Passen super, aber beim Rückenteil sind das zuviele Maschen. Der Rücken wird fast doppelt so breit. Ist das ein Druckfehler oder mache ich da irgendetwas falsch?

19.08.2015 - 14:35

DROPS Design answered:

Die Maschenzahl müsste passen. Sie entspricht für das Rückenteil in etwa 2 Vorderteilen. Das Rückenteil wird ja in einem Stück gestrickt.

01.09.2015 kl. 16:39

Karen Fournier wrote:

Yes, I did that too. I noticed that there is no waist shaping for the fronts. Maybe that is the problem?

25.03.2015 - 14:04

Karen Fournier answered:

Silly me! I see what I did now :( I cast on 139sts and then followed the directions for the smaller size. Everything should work out fine now. Thankyou for your help!

25.03.2015 kl. 14:21

Karen Fournier wrote:

Yes, I did that too. I noticed that there is no waist shaping for the fronts. Maybe that is the problem?

25.03.2015 - 13:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Fournier, there is no waist shaping, check that you have decreased 1 st a total of 28 times without inc (before starting again dec/inc), and that you have cast off the correct number of sts on the side for armhole: 127 - 28 - (4+ 17x2 + 1) = 60 sts. Happy knitting!

25.03.2015 kl. 13:44

Karen Fournier wrote:

I'm knitting size xxl and am having trouble with the dec sections for the left and right fronts' armholes. For the neck I stopped inc and continued dec as before. At the same time I did the armhole dec ( bo 4sts, dec 2sts, 17 times and then 1st one time) on every right side row. When all the dec are finished I should only have 60 sts on my needles but I have 77. Am I doing something wrong? Maybe I'm supposed to dec 1 st 18 times and not only once? Could you help me out please? Thanks!

25.03.2015 - 12:15

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Fournier, it looks like you decreased correctly for armhole, did you dec for neck as stated too ? (ie dec 1 st 28 times without increasing), so that you should get: 127 sts - 28 sts dec for neck - armhole (4 + 17x2 + 1) = 60 sts. Happy knitting!

25.03.2015 kl. 13:18

country flag KarlssonSylvia wrote:

Fråga Kan Du förklara hur jag skall göra när jag minskar och ökar för att få resåren att stämma varje varv Tack

07.12.2014 - 10:35

country flag Ginelou wrote:

I am knitting this lovely pattern. For more options I am knitting it with the short sleeves and will add opera mitts, same yarn, for cooler days.Many thanks for all these wonderful patterns and the soft yarns.

09.04.2013 - 01:01

Maria wrote:

You missed the big "V" on the back

06.04.2013 - 20:33

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