DROPS / 118 / 29

Rose Relic by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS waistcoat in ”Merino Extra Fine” and ”Kid-Silk”. Size S - XXXL.

Tags: lace, square, v-neck, vests,
DROPS design: Pattern no ME-023

Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
300-300-350-350-400-450 g colour no 16, light pink
And use: DROPS KID SILK from Garnstudio
75-100-100-100-100-125 g colour no 03, light pink

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4.5 mm – or size needed to get 15 tr x 8 rows = 10 x 10 cm and to make 1 square measure 11 x 11 cm with 1 thread of each quality.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
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DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 3.10 £ /50g
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75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 3.80 £ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 3.80 £ /25g
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DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 3.80 £ /25g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace first tr on each row with 3 ch and finish each row with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of previous row.
INCREASING TIP:
Inc by working 2 tr in tr each side of marker.
DECREASING TIP:
Dec as follows at beg of row: replace 1 tr with 1 sl st.
Dec as follows at the end of row: Turn piece when no of tr to be dec remain and work return row.
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WAISTCOAT:
First crochet the squares and then the rest of piece.

SQUARE:
Crochet 6 ch with 1 thread of each quality and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: * 1 dc in ring, 3 ch,* repeat from *-* a total of 3 times and finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round = 3 ch-loops.
ROUND 2: Crochet as follows in each ch-loop: 1 dc, 3 tr and 1 dc = 3 leaves. Turn piece – work next round from the back. ROUND 3: 1 ch, 1 dc round first dc from round 1, 4 ch, 1 dc at bottom of 2nd tr on first leaf from round 2, 4 ch, 1 dc round 2nd dc from round 1, 4 ch, 1 dc at bottom of 2nd tr on second leaf from round 2, 4 ch, 1 dc round 3rd dc from round 1, 4 ch, 1 dc at bottom of 2nd tr on third leaf from round 2, 4 ch, 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round = 6 ch-loops. Turn piece – work next round from the front.
ROUND 4: Crochet as follows in each ch-loop: 1 dc, 5 tr and 1 dc = 6 leaves. Turn piece – work next round from the back.
ROUND 5: 1 ch, 1 dc in first dc from round 3, 10 ch, 1 dc at bottom of first tr on first leaf from round 2, 10 ch, 1 dc at bottom of 3rd tr on first leaf from round 2, 10 ch, 1 dc in 2nd dc from round 1, 10 ch, 1 dc at bottom of first tr on second leaf from round 2, 10 ch, 1 dc at bottom of 3rd tr on second leaf from round 2, 10 ch, 1 dc at bottom of first tr on third leaf from round 2, 10 ch, 1 dc at bottom of 3rd tr on third leaf from round 2, 10 ch, 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round = 8 ch-loops. Turn piece, complete square from the front.
ROUND 6: Crochet 1 sl st in each of the first 5 ch on the first ch-loop, *10 ch, 1 dc in the next ch-loop, 5 ch,1 dc in the next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, finish with 10 ch, 1 dc in the next ch-loop, 5 ch and 1 sl st in 5th sl st from beg of round.
ROUND 7: 3 ch (= 1 tr), 4 tr in first ch-loop, 3 ch, 5 tr in the same ch-loop, * 2 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop, 2 ch, 5 tr in next ch-loop, 3 ch, 5 tr in the same ch-loop *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, 2 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop, 2 ch and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 8: Crochet 1 dc in each tr/dc and 1 dc in each ch. Cut and fasten thread.

Crochet a total of 6-7-8-9-10-11 squares. Crochet the squares tog to a row by placing 2 squares with RS against RS and crochet a row of dc through both layers.

TOP:
Crochet 102-119-136-153-170-187 tr in dc along one long side of squares (= 17 tr in each square) with 1 thread of each quality and crochet hook size 4.5 mm. Insert 2 markers in piece, 26-30-34-38-42-47 tr in from each side (back piece = 50-59-68-77-86-93 tr). NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Crochet 1 tr in each tr – see CROCHET TIP. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 1-1-3-3-5-5 cm inc 1 tr each side of both markers – see INCREASING TIP, and repeat the inc on every 2-2-4-4-5-5 cm a total of 4-4-2-2-2-2 times. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 5-6-7-8-9-10 cm dec for neck each side towards mid front. Dec 1 tr on every row a total of 11-12-12-12-13-15 times – see DECREASING TIP. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 8-9-10-11-12-13 cm do not crochet on 6 tr each side (= 3 tr each side of marker) and complete front and back pieces separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 52-61-66-75-84-91 tr. Dec for armhole each side on every row as follows – see DECREASING TIP: 2 tr 0-1-2-3-4-5 times and 1 tr 2-3-3-5-6-7 times = 48-51-52-53-56-57 tr. When piece measures 24-26-28-30-32-34 cm crochet 2 rows on 14 tr each side only (do not crochet on the middle 20-23-24-25-28-29 tr = neckline). Cut and fasten thread, piece measures approx 26-28-30-32-34-36 cm.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Continue dec for neck, and dec for armhole at the side as described for back piece. When all dec are complete there are 14 tr left on shoulder. Continue until piece measures approx 26-28-30-32-34-36 cm - adjust to back piece – cut the thread.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Like left front piece, but mirrored.

BOTTOM PART:
Crochet 102-119-136-153-170-187 tr in dc along the other long side of squares (= 17 tr in each square) with 1 thread of each quality and crochet hook size 4.5 mm. Crochet 4 rows with 1 tr in each tr, cut and fasten thread.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams, edge to edge with neat sts.

FRONT BAND:
Crochet up along right front piece, round neckline and down along left front piece with 1 thread Merino and 1 thread Kid-Silk and crochet hook size 4.5 mm as follows: * 1 dc, 3 ch, skip approx 1 cm *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 dc. Turn and crochet 1 tr in each dc and 2 tr in each ch-loop – approx 180 to 230 tr. Turn and crochet 1 row with 1 tr in each tr. Cut and fasten thread.

SLEEVE EDGE: Crochet with 1 thread Merino and 1 thread Kid-Silk and crochet hook size 4.5 mm as follows: * 1 dc, 3 ch, skip approx 1 cm *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in first dc. Now crochet 1 tr in each dc and 2 tr in each ch-loop – approx 60-75 tr. Cut and fasten thread.

Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 118-29) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (36)

Mandy 24.04.2020 - 18:11:

Vielen lieben Dank für die schnelle Antwort. Ich habe nur am Rückenteil die Zunahmen gehäkelt. Da liegt der Fehler.

Mandy 24.04.2020 - 16:44:

Ich häkel die Größe XXL. Danke.

DROPS Design 24.04.2020 kl. 17:33:

Liebe Mandy, beim Vorderteil haben Sie 42 Maschen + 2 Zunahmen and der Seite = 44 M. - 13 M für Halsausschnitt - 3 M für Armausschnitt + (2 M x 4 = 8 M + 1 M x 6 = 6 M = Total 14 M = 44 - 13 -3 - 14= 14 M. sind jetzt übrig. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Mandy 24.04.2020 - 12:03:

Hi, wenn ich die Abnahmen z.B. vom re. Oberteil bis zum Ende des Armausschnittes häkel, komme ich auf 12 Stb. Am Anfang nehme ich auf der Seite des Oberteils 3 Stb. von Markierungsmarker ab. Ist das richtig? Aber so komme ich am Schluss auf nur 12 Stb., nicht auf 14 Stb. Was mache ich falsch. Danke

DROPS Design 24.04.2020 kl. 12:21:

Liebe Mandy, können Sie uns bitte schreiben, welche Größe Sie häkeln? So kann man auch prüfen und kalkulieren. Danke im voraus.

Ekaterina 06.05.2019 - 16:10:

Thanks a lot for your help and quick response!

Ekaterina 06.05.2019 - 16:00:

Dear Drops! Thank you very much for your previous help. Now I am working on the Back piece, row 26. How should I work on the neckline= 23 tr? Should I crochet 23 sl st ?

DROPS Design 06.05.2019 kl. 16:03:

Dear Ekaterina, you will work the shoulders separately to shape neckline: work first one row over the first 14 sts from the beg of the row on one side (leave the remaining sts on this row unworked), turn and work next row, cut the yarn. Now work the 2nd shoulder the same way: skip 23 sts after the 14 tr worked on first shoulder and work the remaining stiches with 1 tr in each of these 14 tr for 2nd shoulder, turn and work next row, cut the yarn. The middle 23 sts skipped between shoulders = neck. Happy crocheting!

Ekaterina 29.04.2019 - 17:10:

Thanks a lot. One more question, please. How should I replace the marker for the next increases? Should I again count 30 tr from each side of the work? What is the total number of trebles after all increases?

DROPS Design 30.04.2019 kl. 09:43:

Dear Ekaterina, markers should stay on the same place all the way until you divide for armholes, ie after 1st increase, there will be one more stitch on front piece from mid front to marker, and 2 more sts between markers on back piece. Happy crocheting!

Ekaterina 29.04.2019 - 16:04:

Could you help me with the following question regarding the total number of increases? I'm crochetting for the size M. Should I count the first increase when piece measures 1cm+the inc on every 2cm a total of 4 times= 5 times?

DROPS Design 29.04.2019 kl. 16:20:

Dear Ekaterina, you increase 1 st on each side of both markers (= 4 sts per increase row) and repeat these inc a total of 4 times (inclusive the first increase) every 2nd cm. Happy knitting!

Laura Tarulli 05.04.2019 - 16:04:

Ciao, ho notato che in ogni parte del lavoro si utilizzano i due capi di ogni qualità di filato insieme. Però il peso degli stessi non corrisponde, quindi chiedevo maggiori spiegazioni perche non vorrei esaurire un filato prima dell'altro. Grazie.

DROPS Design 30.04.2019 kl. 09:07:

Buongiorno Laura, le quantità in peso dei due filati sono diverse perchè i due filati hanno metraggi diversi. Ad esempio per la taglia S servono 300 g di BabyMerino, che equivalgono a 105m x 6 = 630m e 75g di Kid-silk che corrispondono a 200m x 3 = 600m. Buon lavoro!

Ekaterina 13.03.2019 - 17:03:

Hello, dear Drops! Is it possible to crochet this model without adding Drops Kid Silk?

DROPS Design 14.03.2019 kl. 09:42:

Dear Ekaterina, your tension would be then completely different (and the texture would be also different), it sounds like a good idea to keep here both yarn group B (Merino) + Kid-Silk. Happy crocheting!

Susan Starke 10.08.2016 - 20:48:

Hallo,ich verstehe die Ab-/und Zunahmen bei den Markern beim Rückenteil nicht bis hin zu den Armausschnitten.können sie mir die bitte vereinfacht erklären.Danke

DROPS Design 27.08.2016 kl. 15:31:

Liebe Susan, könnten Sie uns bitte genau schreiben, was Sie nicht verstehen?

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