DROPS / 117 / 35

Sea of Stars by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS Shawl in Merino Extra Fine and Classic Alpaca or Merino Extra Fine and Puna.

Tags: shawls, square,
  • Sea of Stars / DROPS 117-35 - Crochet DROPS Shawl in Merino Extra Fine and Classic Alpaca or  Merino Extra Fine and Puna.
  • Sea of Stars / DROPS 117-35 - Crochet DROPS Shawl in Merino Extra Fine and Classic Alpaca or  Merino Extra Fine and Puna.
DROPS design: Pattern no AC-008.

Measurements:
Length: approx 70 cm
Width at the top: approx 140 cm

Materials:
DROPS CLASSIC ALPACA from Garnstudio
250 g colour no 4434, purple/violet mix
And use: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
100 g colour no 22, light purple

Or use:
Materials: DROPS PUNA from Garnstudio
200 g colour no 12, violet
And use: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
100 g colour no 22, light purple

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4.5 mm – or size needed to get 1 square = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Wool
from 2.15 £ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 2.15 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 2.15 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Alpaca Classic DROPS Alpaca Classic
100% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN: Fig 1 shows 1 square. Fig 2 shows how to crochet the shawl tog. Fig 3 shows how to crochet 2 squares tog.

SHAWL:
Worked back and forth in rows. For every row work 1 less square, i.e. the first square on a new row is worked in the second square from the previous row. The shawl is worked from one short side towards the other short side. Fig.2 shows how to work the rows.

ROW 1 WITH SQUARES (= 10 squares):
Work the first square as follows:
Crochet 8 ch on crochet hook size 4.5 mm with Merino and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1 (crochet with Merino): 3 ch, 1 tr in ring, 1 ch, 2 tr in ring, * 3 ch, 2 tr in ring, 1 ch, 2 tr in ring *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times and finish with 3 ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Turn piece.
ROUND 2 (crochet with Classic Alpaca or Puna): 3 ch, 1 tr in the first ch-loop, 12 ch, 2 tr in the same ch-loop, * 1 ch, 1 tr in next ch, 8 ch, 1 tr in the same ch, 1 ch, 2 tr in next ch-loop, 12 ch, 2 tr in the same ch-loop *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, 1 ch, 1 tr in the next ch, 8 ch, 1 tr in the same ch, 1 ch, finish with 1 sl st in the 3rd ch from on beg of round.

Work the next 9 squares as follows:
Crochet 8 ch on crochet hook size 4.5 mm with Merino and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1 (crochet with Merino): Like round 1 on first square.
ROUND 2 (crochet with Classic Alpaca or Puna): 3 ch, 1 tr in the first ch-loop, 6 ch, 1 dc in ch-loop with 12 ch from previous square, 6 ch, 2 tr in the first ch-loop (= 3 ch), 1 ch, 1 tr in next ch, 4 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop (= 8 ch) from previous square, 4 ch, 1 tr in the same ch (= 1 ch), 1 ch, 2 tr in next ch-loop, 6 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop (with 12 ch) from previous square, 6 ch, 2 tr in the same ch-loop (= 3 ch), * 1 ch, 1 tr in next ch, 8 ch, 1 tr in the same ch, 1 ch, 2 tr in next ch-loop, 12 ch, 2 tr in the same ch-loop *, repeat from *-* a total of 2 times, 1 ch, 1 tr in the next ch, 8 ch, 1 tr in the same ch, 1 ch, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.

Continue working squares like this until there are 10 squares on row.

ROW 2 WITH SQUARES (= 9 SQUARES):
Crochet the first square as follows:
Crochet 8 ch on crochet hook size 4.5 mm with Merino and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1 (crochet with Merino): Like round 1 on first square on first row.
ROUND 2 (crochet with Classic Alpaca or Puna): 3 ch, 1 tr in in the first ch-loop, 6 ch, 1 dc in dc where first and second square from previous row are crochet tog, 6 ch, 2 tr in the first
ch-loop (= 3 ch), 1 ch, 1 tr in the next ch, 4 ch, 1 dc in the next ch-loop (= 8 ch) from second square on previous row, 4 ch, 1 tr in the same ch (= 1 ch), 1 ch, 2 tr in the next ch-loop, 6 ch, 1 dc in dc where second and third square from previous row are crochet tog, 6 ch, 2 tr in the same ch-loop (= 3 ch) * 1 ch, 1 tr in the next ch, 8 ch, 1 tr in the same ch, 1 ch, 2 tr in the next ch-loop, 12 ch, 2 tr in the same ch-loop *, repeat from *-* a total of 2 times, 1 ch, 1 tr in the next ch, 8 ch, 1 tr in the same ch, 1 ch, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.

Crochet the next square as follows:
Crochet 8 ch on crochet hook size 4.5 mm with Merino and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1 (crochet with Merino): Like round 1 on first square.
ROUND 2 (crochet with Classic Alpaca or Puna): 3 ch, 1 tr in the first ch-loop, 6 ch, 1 dc in ch-loop with 12 ch from previous square, 6 ch, 2 tr in the first ch-loop (= 3 ch), 1 ch, 1 tr in the next ch, 4 ch, 1 dc in the next ch-loop (= 8 ch) from previous square, 4 ch, 1 tr in the same ch (= 1 ch), 1 ch, 2 tr in the next ch-loop, 6 ch, 1 dc in dc where second and third square from previous row are crochet tog, 6 ch, 2 tr in the same ch-loop, 1 ch, 1 tr in the next ch, 4 ch, 1 dc in the next ch-loop (= 8 ch) from third square on previous row, 4 ch, 1 tr in the same ch (= 1 ch), 1 ch, 2 tr in the next ch-loop, 6 ch, 1 dc in dc where third and fourth square from previous row are crochet tog, 6 ch, 2 tr in the same ch-loop (= 3ch), 1 ch, 1 tr in the next ch, 8 ch, 1 tr in the same ch, 1 ch, 2 tr in the next ch-loop, 12 ch, 2 tr in the same ch-loop ,1 ch, 1 tr in the next ch, 8 ch, 1 tr in the same ch, 1 ch, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.

Crochet 7 squares in the same way = 9 squares on second row.

Continue like this, working 1 less square on each row. Crochet a total of 10 rows (last row = 1 square).

CROCHET BORDER: Crochet a border round the whole shawl with Alpaca Classic or Puna on crochet hook size 4.5 mm as follows:
Row 1: 1 dc in corner of shawl, * 8 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-*. Turn piece.
Row 2: 1 dc in first dc, 4 ch, 1 dc in first ch-loop, * 16 ch, 1 dc in 8th ch from hook, 8 ch, 1 dc in the same dc, 8 ch, 1 dc in the same dc, 8 ch, 1 dc in dc in ch-loop, 8 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop from previous row *, repeat from *-* all the way round.

Diagram

symbols = ch
symbols = sl st
symbols = tr
symbols = beg here
symbols = 1 dc in ch-loop from previous square
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 117-35) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (31)

country flag Laura 08.09.2018 - 22:18:

Buona sera. Scusi ma nella prima riga del bordo partenod p.e. dall.angolo sx m.b. nell arco delle 12 cat poi m.b. nell alrco delle 8 cat. Poi 8 cat e m.b.a cavallo dell incrocio dei due archi sottostanti 8 cat m.b. nell.arco di 12 cat 8 cat. M.b.nell incrocio dei 2 archi sottostanti e cosi via...e corretto? Grazie

user icon DROPS Design 10.09.2018 kl. 15:14:

Buongiorno Laura. Per il bordo, ferma il filo con 1 mb nell'angolo, poi lavora 8 cat , 1 mb nell'arco di cat successivo e procede così su tutto il lato. Buon lavoro!

country flag Laura 03.09.2018 - 16:58:

Buona sera. Scusi ma il.bordo si fa sui tre lati o.solo su due? Grazie e a presto laura

user icon DROPS Design 03.09.2018 kl. 19:38:

Buonasera Laura. Le indicazioni sono di lavorare il bordo su tutti e tre i lati. Può lavorarlo anche solo su due se preferisce. Buon lavoro!

country flag Gunilla Hjelmlund 21.03.2018 - 10:13:

Jag skulle gärna vilja ha en ritad figur som visar hur tre rutor sammanfogas, då jag har lite problem med att visualisera hur det ska gå till utifrån texten

user icon DROPS Design 03.04.2018 kl. 16:06:

Hej Gunilla, har du sett vår video?

How to crochet the squares together in DROPS 117-35 from Garnstudio Drops design on Vimeo.

country flag Sanne 08.03.2015 - 01:36:

Etter å ha heklet en rute, hvordan skal jeg fortsette? Hvis jeg begynner rett på med 8 lm, 1 kjm i 1.lm, så blir rutene helt inntil hverandre, mens det ser ut på både bilde og fig.3 at de skal festes sammen i buene?

country flag Penny Bennett 18.10.2014 - 21:00:

How about calling it Purple Passion? It's lovely.

Gloria Martins 07.02.2010 - 18:10:

I love your patters in crochet and I'm doing some of your beautiful shawls for myself. However, I was teached to follow diagrams. I have noticed that for the majority of them you don't include a diagram for the borders. Would it be possible to include them as well? And what about this one? Can you send me a diagram for the border? Thanking you in advance and congratulations for the superb work you have been doing. Best regads, Gloria

country flag DROPS Design NL 10.12.2009 - 09:43:

Hoi Annet. Volgens de beschrijving worden de vierkantjes aan elkaar gehaakt. Toer 1 heeft bijvoorbeeld 10 vierkantjes, toer 2 9 vierkantjes enz. Haak totaal 10 toeren en eindig met 1 vierkantjes in de 10e toer. Zie ook figuur 2 op de teltekening. Ik hoop dat je hiermee verder kan. Succes en veel haakplezier. Gr. Tine

country flag Annet 10.12.2009 - 08:18:

Ik had een vraag haak je nu alle vierkantjes aan elkaar of haak je ze los en daarna op het eind aan elkaar ? ik heb nog nooit zo iets gemaakt van daar mijn vraag. vriendelijke groed annet

Farzaneh Babaee 10.11.2009 - 21:18:

Pleas sent me map of ac-008

country flag Ida Trujillo 24.08.2009 - 20:46:

Beautiful shawl. "Muy bonito"

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