DROPS Baby / 18 / 13

Princess Dora by DROPS Design

Set of knitted dress with round yoke and lace pattern plus booties in DROPS Alpaca for baby and children

Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size in cm: 50/56-62/68-74/80 (86/92-98/104)
Bootie foot length: 10-11-12 (14-16) cm
Materials: DROPS ALPACA
DRESS:
100-150-200 (200-250) g colour no 0100, off-white
50 g for all sizes colour no 3720, violet
50 g for all sizes colour no 3140, light pink
50 g for all sizes colour no 3770, dark pink
50 g for all sizes colour no 3800, heather
BOOTIES:
50 g for all sizes colour no 0100, off-white
50 g for all sizes colour no 3140, light pink

DRESS:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE size 3 mm (40 cm for the 2 smaller sizes and 60 cm for the 3 larger sizes) – or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) size 2.5 mm DROPS WOODEN BUTTON no 503: 2 pcs.

BOOTIES:
DROPS POINTED NEEDLES size 2.5 mm – or size needed to get 26 sts x 52 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Alpaca
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
DRESS:

GARTER ST (in the round):
K 1 round, P 1 round.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.

PATTERN: See diagram M.4 and M.5 – diagram shows the pattern from the RS.

WAVY PATTERN: See diagram M.1 and M.2 – diagram shows the pattern from the RS.

DRESS:
Worked in the round on circular needle – round beg mid back.
LOOSELY cast on 170-187-204 (221-238) sts on circular needle size 3 mm with off-white and work M.1. When piece measures approx 5-7-8 (10-11) cm – adjust to after a full repeat of M.1 – work 1 vertical repeat of M.2 = 150-165-180 (195-210) sts. K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 30-33-30 (27-30) sts evenly = 120-132-150 (168-180) sts. P 1 round. Insert 1 marker after 30-33-38 (42-45) sts and 1 marker after 90-99-113 (126-135) sts (to mark the sides). Continue in stocking st.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 14-16-19 (22-24) cm continue in M.4 on all sts. When piece measures 21-27-32 (37-40) cm cast off 10 sts each side for armhole (= 5 sts on each side of both markers) = 100-112-130 (148-160) sts left on round. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.
SLEEVE: Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 36-36-42 (42-46) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with off-white. Work 4 cm garter st – SEE ABOVE. Change to needle size 3 mm and continue in stocking st. Insert a marker at beg of round = mid under arm. When piece measures 5-5-5 (6-7) cm inc 1 st on each side of marker and repeat the inc on every 4-4-5 (5-6) round a total of 7-8-8 (10-10) times = 50-52-58 (62-66) sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 10-11-11 (14-16) cm continue in M.4. When piece measures 14-17-19 (23-27) cm cast off 10 sts mid under arm (= 5 sts on each side of marker) = 40-42-48 (52-56) sts. Put piece aside and knit the other sleeve.
YOKE:
Slip sleeves on the same circular needle as body piece where cast off for armholes = 180-196-226 (252-272) sts. K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 0-7-1 (9-11) sts evenly = 180-189-225 (243-261) sts. Continue in M.5 – see diagram for size. When yoke measures 7-7-8 (9-10) cm divide piece for split mid back as follows: Work round to mid back, cast on 4 new sts (= buttonhole band), turn piece and now work all sts back and forth on needle with 4 garter sts each side for buttonhole bands (work the inc 4 sts in off-white). AT THE SAME TIME after 2 cm make 1 buttonhole on left buttonhole band by K tog 2nd and 3rd st from edge and make 1 YO. Make a second buttonhole in the same way 2.5 cm after the first one. After M.5 - see arrow in diagram for size – there are 64-67-79 (85-91) sts left on row. Change to needle size 2.5 mm, work 1 row stocking st, AT THE SAME TIME DEC 4-2-9 (10-11) sts evenly = 60-65-70 (75-80) sts. Work 6 rows garter st on all sts, cast off loosely. Dress measures approx 33-39-45 (51-55) cm.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew openings under arms. Fasten buttonhole band at bottom mid back and sew on buttons to fit buttonholes. Fold sleeve edges if needed.
----------------------------------------------------------
BOOTIES:

PATTERN: See diagram M.3 – the diagram is seen from the RS.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.
----------------------------------------------------------
BOOTIE: Worked back and forth on needle from mid back.
Cast on 55-55-55 (66-66) sts on needle size 2.5 mm with 2 threads off-white. Remove 1 thread and work 2 rows stocking st (first row = RS). Work 1 vertical repeat of M.3 on all sts. K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME dec 5-1-1 (8-8) sts evenly = 50-54-54 (58-58) sts. Continue in rib, K2/P2, with 1 edge st each side until piece measures 6-7-7 (8-8) cm – adjust so that next row is from WS. Change to light pink, P 1 row from WS, AT THE SAME TIME dec 16 sts evenly = 34-38-38 (42-42) sts. Work 6 rows garter st and now slip 12-12-12 (14-14) sts each side on stitch holders = 10-14-14 (14-14) sts left on row (= upper foot). Work 4-4.5-5 (6-8) cm rib with off-white on these sts (beg from RS): * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K2. Pick up 10-11-13 (16-21) sts on each side of upper foot with off-white and slip sts from stitch holders back on needle = 54-60-64 (74-84) sts. Change to light pink and continue in garter st back and forth on needle from mid back, AT THE SAME TIME after 1.5-2.5-3 (3-4) cm dec as follows: K2 tog at the beg and at the end of row and K2 tog on each side of the middle 2 sts, repeat the dec on every other row until edge measures 3-4-5 (5-6) cm. Cast off and sew bootie tog under foot in outer loops of sts, continue along rib inside 1 edge st each side.

Diagram

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= From RS: K2 tog, From WS: P2 tog
= 1 YO between 2 sts
= 3800, heather
= 3770, dark pink
= 0100, off-white
= 3140, light pink
= 3720, violet


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 18-13) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (81)

Rosemary Femrite 14.03.2020 - 22:44:

At the very beginning of the pattern Drops Baby 18-13:I do not understand when it says “adjust to after a full repeat of M1”. But before that it also says when piece measures 8cm (size I am knitting) and my piece is far from reaching 8 cm. How many times (1?) are we to work M1?

DROPS Design 15.03.2020 kl. 10:27:

Dear Rosemary, repeat the pattern M.1 until your piece is just about 8 cm, and then finish it after you have knitted a full repeat of the pattern (in other words, you knitted all rows of the pattern repeat. "Adjust to a full repat" means, that you should finish after you have knitted all the rows of a pattern unit). I hope this helps. Happy Knitting!

Jette Asp Bøttcher 05.02.2020 - 08:28:

Skal der kun slåes op til kant ved delingen i den ene side??

DROPS Design 10.02.2020 kl. 16:58:

Hej Jette, strikker du kjolen? Hvilken størrelse og hvor er du i opskriften?

Victoria 14.05.2019 - 07:20:

Hei,skal felle til armer på strls 6/9 måner. Men det må være feil i oppskriften. Det står sett ett merke etter 33 m. Så ett merke etter 99 m. Å då ska eg fella 10 me kvart merke. Det kan vel ikke stemma. Blir veldig lite på ene siden å veldig mye på andre siden.

DROPS Design 15.05.2019 kl. 07:28:

Hei Victoria, Merkene markerer sidene - første merke etter 33 masker og andre etter 99 masker. Da er det 66 masker mellom merkene både foran og bak siden du har 33 masker igjen til begynnelse av omgangen. God fornøyelse!

Sarah 17.02.2019 - 11:14:

In der deutschen Fassung wäre es hilfreich, bei den Erklärungen zum Digramm bei „1Umschlag“ zu ergänzen mit „zwischen zwei Maschen“, so wie in der englischen und französischen Fassung...

Heidi 08.11.2018 - 13:54:

Hei. Princess dora. Holder på med m1: Skal jeg strikke 2rette før første kast etter å ha strikket 6 m sammen og 2rette etter siste kast før jeg strikker 6 m sammen?

DROPS Design 16.11.2018 kl. 14:27:

Hei Heidi. Omgangen med fellinger og kast strikkes slik: 2 masker rett sammen, 2 masker rett sammen, 2 masker rett sammen (= 3 masker felt og 3 masker på pinnen), kast, 1 rett, kast, 1 rett, kast, 1 rett, kast, 1 rett, kast, 1 rett, kast (6 masker økt og 14 masker på pinnen), 2 masker rett sammen, 2 masker rett sammen, 2 masker rett sammen (3 masker felt og 17 masker på pinnen). Maskeantallet er det samme som da du startet. Du strikker altså kast med en gang du har felt den 3 masken, og du strikker 2 masker rett sammen med en gang etter siste kast. God fornøyesle.

Heidi 08.11.2018 - 13:50:

Hei. Holder på med m1: Skal jeg strikke 2rette før første kast etter å ha strikket 6 m sammen og 2rette etter siste kast før jeg strikker 6 m sammen?

Anne Grenersen 03.06.2018 - 09:42:

Hei, jeg forsøker å strikke denne kjolen, (3-6 mnd) og er en erfaren strikker. Det går greit når jeg strikker mønster 1 første gang, antall masker og mønster stemmer. Men når mønster 1 skal strikkes for andre gang for p få rett høyde, er det teknisk umulig å få de 2x3 m rett sammen til å ligge over hverandre, noe de ifølge bildet skal. Kast/hull forskyves nødvendigvis også. Hva gjør jeg feil?

DROPS Design 04.06.2018 kl. 09:24:

Hej Anne, husk at du vil få 2m rett sammen 6 gange efter hinanden, imellem de 6 omslag som har 1 ret imellem hver omslag. Sæt gerne et mærke imellem hver rapport, så du er sikker på at du strikker alle 17 masker i M.1 rapporten inden du starter forfra. God fornøjelse!

Janne 03.05.2018 - 21:36:

Hej strikker str 3/4 kan det passe at der er 45 m og så 135 m der makkerer siderne? Hilsen Janne

DROPS Design 09.05.2018 kl. 13:44:

Hej, Janne, ja det stemmer, så har du 90 masker på forstykket og 90 masker på bagstykket. God fornøjelse!

Sonja Neyer 02.12.2014 - 14:02:

Sehr geehrte Damen und Herren! Das Modell ist wirklich süss, und auch die Beschreibung sehr einfach. Aber bei der Rundpasse, wo ich hinten die Knopfleiste links und rechts stricken muss, komm ich einfach nicht weiter. Gibt es hier eine detailliertere Anleitung. Darüber wäre ich sehr froh, denn momentan ruht die Arbeit, würd sie aber schon am Mittwoch schenken wollen. Besten Dank Sonja Neyer

DROPS Design 03.12.2014 kl. 15:44:

Sie haben ja zuerst in Runden gestrickt. An der rückwärtigen Mitte schlagen Sie nun, statt weiter in Runden zu stricken, für die eine Seite der Knopfleiste 4 neue M an (siehe auch bei den Videoanleitungen "Seitlich neue M anschlagen") und stricken dann in Hin- und Rück-R weiter, diese 4 M kommen dann also unter den anderen M zu liegen, die Leiste besteht ja aus zwei sich überlappenden Teilen. Diese neu angeschlagenen M und die 4 M am R-Ende, d.h. die sich überlappenden M, stricken Sie kraus re.

Heidi Rønberg 11.07.2014 - 13:49:

Hej! Rigtig flot kjole. Måtte dog lave halsen større, da den var alt for lille..

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Baby 18-13

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.