Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
= heel mid back, sew to B | |
= heel mid back, sew to A | |
= mid under foot | |
= knitting direction |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Snow Slippers |
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Knitted and felted slippers in 2 threads DROPS Alpaca. Size 35 - 44. Theme: Christmas
DROPS Extra 0-517 |
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SLIPPERS: Worked in 1 piece with seams mid back and mid upper foot. Beg mid back – see measuring chart. LOOSELY cast on 76-80-86 sts on needle size 5.5 mm with 2 threads Alpaca and work stocking st back and forth on needle. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 6-7-7 cm continue on 16 sts on the left of piece only – slip the remaining sts on a stitch holder. Work 7 cm stocking st on the 16 and cast off. Slip sts from stitch holder back on needle and cast on 16 new sts on the left side of piece. Now continue on all sts. When piece measures 8-9-9 cm (from cast on row) work next row as follows from WS: work 4 sts, cast off 9 sts, work remaining sts on row. Cast on 9 new sts over the cast off sts on return row (= buttonhole). When piece measures 18-19.5-21.5 cm cast off 4-4-5 sts each side = 68-72-76 sts. Now dec at the beg of every row each side: 4 sts 2 times, and then at the beg of every other row each side: 1 st 8-9-10 times = 36-38-40 sts. Continue until piece measures 34-38-42 cm, cast off loosely. Make 1 more slipper, but mirror it, i.e. when piece measures 6-7-7 cm only work the first 16 sts on the right side of piece. ASSEMBLY: Fold slipper and sew tog mid back in outer loops of sts. Sew tog mid upper foot at the front in the same way. Felt slippers in washing machine – SEE BELOW. For the perfect fit, put slipper on while still wet to shape it into the right size. After felting sew on buttons to fit buttonholes. FELTING: To avoid the slippers felting tog during wash, attach a small plastic bag inside the top before putting them in the washing machine. Wash at 40 degrees with a detergent free of enzymes and optical bleach, with normal spin, but no pre-wash. After wash shape the slippers while still wet, and leave to dry – see above. If after felting the slippers are too big, wash them again, if they are too small, leave them to soak and then shape them into the right size. At subsequent washes wash the slippers at a wool programme. AFTER FELTING: If the piece is not felted enough and is too big: Wash the piece one more time in the washing machine while it is still wet add a terry towel that measures approx. 50 x 70 cm - NOTE: Do not use a short program. If the piece has been felted too much and is too small: While the piece is still wet stretch it to the correct measurements, if the piece is dry, make sure to soak it first. Remember: All subsequent washes are as a normal wool garment. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11422 patterns - 11422 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (37)
Una wrote:
I do not understand where I cast on the extra stitches (which side of the work) after putting the stitches on the holder back on needles. Is the first row picked up knit on the right side or the wrong side? Which end of it are the extra stitches added? It is not clear from the diagram as I cannot see them in it!
19.11.2020 - 02:39DROPS Design answered:
Dear Una, you can cast off the 16 sts from RS (just make sure to have the same number of rows on the 2nd slipper), and cut the yarn - Slip then all stitches back on needle and work these stitches then cast on 16 sts at the end of the row from RS (= over the 16 sts worked alone for 7 cm and cast off). Hope this helps. Happy knitting!
19.11.2020 - 10:26Anne-Karin Hyvärinen wrote:
Hei igjen! Vil fortelle at jeg fulgte oppskrifta til punkt og prikke. At knappestolpen og knapphullet var på samme side under strikkingen og at de ble helt perfekt. Tusen takk for at dere tok dere tid til å overbevise meg. Tips til de som blir å strikke disse: Når du skal sy sammen forran ved tærne så er den sømmen vannrett.
24.09.2020 - 00:53Anne-Karin Hyvärinen wrote:
Tusen takk for svar! Jeg ønsker virkelig å strikke disse vakre tøflene. Mener at det er en feil i oppskrifta for etter oppskrifta så blir knapphull og stolpe på samme siden om man følger oppskrifta. Jeg forstår derfor ikke den fasongen på knappestolpen Jeg venter i spenning på foklaringen så at jeg å begynne å strikke disse i julegaver . Vennlig hilsen fra Anne-Karin som liker å strikke med dropsgarn :)
08.09.2020 - 22:58DROPS Design answered:
Hej Anne-Karin, nej det skal ikke være fejl i opskriften. I og med at du slår 9 nye masker op, strikker knaphul helt i starten af de nye masker, så vil stykket med knaphul vende "bagud" på ydersiden af foden og knappen skal sys i det lille tillæg på klaffen, som ligger under de 9 nye masker som blev slået op. Bare følg opskriften, så kan du se i skissen nederst hvordan du skal sy dem sammen. God fornøjelse!
09.09.2020 - 14:39Anne-Karin wrote:
Hei! Jeg forstår ikke dette med den knappestolpen og knapphullet. Skal de være på samme side ? Skal knappestolpen festes ? Venter i spenning på svar:)
06.09.2020 - 00:13DROPS Design answered:
Hei Anne-Karin. Ser ut som det bare er en pynteknapp som sys fast i klaffen, som igjen sys fast i tøffelen. Design avd skal ta en dobbeltsjekk og evnt komme med en rettelse. mvh DROPS design
07.09.2020 - 08:38Eva wrote:
Hejsa, jeg undre mig over beskrivelsen: Når arb måler 18cm lukkes der 4m af i hver side = 68m. Videre lukkes der af i beg af hver p i hver side: 4 m 2 gange Vil det sige, at der strikkes således: *luk 4m af, strik p. ud, vend, luk 4m af, strik pinden ud, vend* tre gange? På forhånd tak. Vh. Eva
04.07.2019 - 18:07DROPS Design answered:
Hej Eva, ja det stemmer - god fornøjelse :)
05.07.2019 - 13:24J Laferrière wrote:
Je ne comprends pas comment coudre la pantoufle...
11.02.2019 - 18:05DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme laferrière, posez l'ouvrage devant vous comme sur le schéma, rang de montage devant vous (cf flèche sens du tricot), pliez-le en double dans le sens de la longueur (ligne pointillé), et assemblez le talon/milieu dos du chausson: A contre B, puis la pointe: en commençant à la ligne pointillé, assemblez les mailles rabattues entre elles, et remontez le long de la courbe jusqu'aux mailles rabattues de chaque côté (les 18-19,5-21,5 cm tricotés "droit" depuis le rang de montage forment l'ouverture pour le pied (la cheville) . Bon assemblage!
12.02.2019 - 08:38Bjørg Johansen Busterud wrote:
Hvordan sy sammen tåtuppen?
11.12.2017 - 23:48Anita Machmuller wrote:
Jeg har lukket 3x4 masker i hver side og så står der :"derefter i beg.af HVER 2.P I HVER SIDE: 1m 8-9-10 gange ." Hvad betyder det jeg har skrevet med stort? Tak for svar. Hilsen Anita
17.10.2015 - 19:15DROPS Design answered:
Hej Anita, På beg af hver 2.p betyder: Luk 1m af strik pinden ud, vend, luk 1m af strik pinden ud, vend, strik hele p ud, vend, strik hele pinden ud. Nu starter du forfra med at lukke 1m af.... osv. God fornøjelse!
26.11.2015 - 14:42Regina Bisswanger wrote:
Schlechte anleitung zum zusammennähen, was mache ich mit dem lappen der durch das ab-bzw.zunehmen der 16 maschen entsteht? es ist nicht ersichtlich wie und wo ich diesen annähen soll kommt er unter das knopfloch oder wie es auf dem bild aussieht ist er aber darüber? das kann aber nicht passen obwohl meine maße genau stimmen.bitte um genauere angaben, vielen dank lg re
04.10.2015 - 13:22DROPS Design answered:
Der "Lappen" bleibt einfach erst mal so, wie er ist, er wird nicht angenäht. Sie haben ja an einer Stelle ein Knopfloch eingearbeitet, die andere Seite des "Lappens" bildet den Knopfbeleg. Wenn Sie den Schuh hinten und an der oberen Mitte zusammengenäht haben, wird sich Ihnen erschließen, wie der "Lappen" zu liegen kommt.
13.10.2015 - 16:02Eva wrote:
Wenn ich dieser Anweisung folge "Nach 8-9-9 cm (von der Anschlagskante) von der linken Seite wie folgt stricken: 4 M. stricken, 9 M. abk., die R. fertig stricken. Bei der nächsten R. über den abgeketteten M. 9 neue M. anschlagen." erhalte ich einen weiteren Schlitz im Socken. Dieser ist nicht eingezeichnet und macht dort auch keinen Sinn, oder habe ich etwas falsch gemacht? Viele Grüße Eva
02.10.2015 - 00:00DROPS Design answered:
Dabei handelt es sich um das Knopfloch, es befindet sich an der Seite, an der auch die Lasche bzw. der Knopfbeleg liegt, die bzw. den Sie zu Beginn über die 16 M gestrickt haben.
04.10.2015 - 22:24