DROPS Baby / 17 / 16

Little Nugget by DROPS Design

Set of knitted jacket, pants and socks for baby and children in DROPS Fabel or DROPS Flora

Tags: jackets, pants, sets, socks,
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size in cm: 50/56-62/68-74/80 (86/92-98/104)
Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
JACKET:
100-150-150 (200-200) g colour no 0100, off-white
50 g for all sizes colour no 912, soft chocolate.
PANTS:
100-100-150 (150-200) g colour no 912, soft chocolate.
SOCKS:
50 g for all sizes colour no 0100, off-white
+ a remnant of colour no 912, soft chocolate.

Or use:
DROPS FLORA from Garnstudio
JACKET:
100-150-150 (200-200) g colour no 01, off-white
50 g for all sizes colour no 08, brown.
PANTS:
100-100-150 (150-200) g colour no 08, soft brown.
SOCKS:
50 g for all sizes colour no 01, off-white
+ a remnant of colour no 08, brown.

JACKET:
DROPS POINTED NEEDLES size 3 mm – or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS WOODEN BUTTON no 513: 5-5-5 (6-6) pcs.

PANTS:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) size 2.5 mm – or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

SOCKS:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 2.5 mm – or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 2.50 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
JACKET

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.

MOSS ST:
Row 1: * K1, P1 *, repeat from *-*.
Row 2: K over P and P over K.
Repeat row 2.
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BACK PIECE: Worked back and forth on needle.
Cast on 60-66-74 (84-88) sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 3 mm with soft chocolate Fabel or brown Flora. Work 4 cm garter st – SEE ABOVE. Change to off-white Fabel/ Flora and continue as follows from RS: 1 edge st, 3 stocking sts, 6 moss sts – SEE ABOVE – stocking st until 10 sts remain, 6 moss sts, 3 stocking sts and 1 edge st. Continue like this until piece measures 17-18-21 (24-26) cm.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Now cast off 3 sts each side for armhole = 54-60-68 (78-82) sts. Continue in stocking st with 6 moss sts and 1 edge st each side until piece measures 22-24-28 (32-35) cm. Now continue in stocking st with 1 edge st each side until piece measures 25-27-31 (35-38) cm. Now complete piece in garter st on all sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 26-28-32 (36-39) cm cast off the middle 24-24-24 (28-28) sts for neck and complete each side separately. Continue in garter st for 1 cm on the remaining 15-18-22 (25-27) sts on shoulder and cast off. Piece measures approx 27-29-33 (37-40) cm.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Worked back and forth on needle.
Cast on 18-21-25 (28-30) sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 3 mm with soft chocolate Fabel or brown Flora. Work 4 cm garter st. Change to off-white Fabel/Flora and continue as follows from mid front, first row = RS: 1 edge st, 7-10-14 (17-19) stocking sts, 6 moss sts, 3 stocking sts and 1 edge st. When piece measures 17-18-21 (24-26) cm cast off 3 sts at the side for armhole = 15-18-22 (25-27) sts left on row. Continue in stocking st and moss st as before until piece measures 22-24-28 (32-35) cm. Now continue in stocking st with 1 edge st each side until piece measures 25-27-31 (35-38) cm. Now complete piece in garter st on all sts. Cast off when piece measures 27-29-33 (37-40) cm.

FRONT BAND: Pick up 65-69-79 (89-96) sts inside 1 edge st along piece mid front on needle size 3 mm with off-white Fabel/Flora. Work moss st, AT THE SAME TIME cast off to shape the neckline at the beg of every row from the neck: 4 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 2-2-2 (4-4) times = 55-59-69 (77-84) sts. When front band measures 6-6-6 (7-7) cm cast off for 5-5-5 (6-6) buttonholes evenly on row – place top buttonhole 1 cm from neckline and the bottom one approx 3 cm from bottom edge. 1 buttonhole = cast off 2 sts and cast on 2 new sts on return row. Continue until piece measures 8-8-8 (9-9) cm, cast off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE: Like right front piece, but mirrored, i.e. after the 4 cm garter st work first row as follows from the side (first row = RS): 1 edge st, 3 stocking sts, 6 moss sts, 7-10-14 (17-19) stocking sts and 1 edge st. Do not make buttonholes on front band.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on needle.
Cast on 33-35-39 (41-43) sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 3 mm with soft chocolate Fabel or brown Flora. Work 4 cm garter st, change to off-white Fabel/Flora and continue in stocking st. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 6 cm inc 1 st each side on every 5th row a total of 8-9-10 (12-13) times = 49-53-59 (65-69) sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 17-19-21 (26-29) cm work moss st on the middle 29-31-35 (39-41) sts, work remaining sts as before. Cast off when piece measures 19-21-23 (28-31) cm.

ASSEMBLY: Sew shoulder seams, edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam.

NECKLINE: Pick up approx 70 to 84 sts round neckline on needle size 3 mm with soft chocolate Fabel or brown Flora. K 3 rows back and forth on needle, cast off.
Set in sleeves, sew sleeve and side seams inside 1 edge st. Sew on buttons to fit buttonholes.
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PANTS:

DECREASING TIP:
Dec as follows 3 sts before marker: K2 tog, K1.
Dec as follows after marker: K1, slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.

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LEG:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 64-68-72 (76-80) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with soft chocolate Fabel or brown Flora. Insert a marker at beg of round = inside of leg. Work 5 cm rib, K1/P1, and then continue in stocking st. AT THE SAME TIME on first row dec 8-8-10 (12-12) sts evenly = 56-60-62 (64-68) sts. When piece measures 8 cm inc 1 st on each side of marker by K 2 sts in 1 st on every 3-4-6 (8-10) round a total of 8 times = 72-76-78 (80-84) sts.
When leg measures 16-20-23 (25-32) cm divide the piece by marker and continue back and forth on needle (to make it easier to slip both legs on the same circular needle afterwards), AT THE SAME TIME cast on 1 new st each side for seam = 74-78-80 (82-86) sts. When piece measures 18-22-25 (29-34) cm cast off 3 sts each side = 68-72-74 (76-80) sts.
Put piece aside and knit the other leg in the same way.

PANTS:
Slip both legs on the same circular needle size 2.5 mm = 136-144-148 (152-160) sts. Insert a marker mid front. Now dec 1 st on each side of marker mid front – SEE DECREASING TIP. Repeat the dec on every other round a total of 6 times = 124-132-136 (140-148) sts.
When piece measures 29-35-38 (43-50) cm inc 24-24-24 (28-28) sts evenly = 148-156-160 (168-176) sts. Now continue in rib, K2/P2, for 7-7-8 (9-9) cm. Cast off loosely in rib.
Pants measures approx 36-42-46 (52-59) cm.

ASSEMBLY: Sew split on the inside of leg inside 1 edge st. Sew opening between legs.
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SOCKS:

HEEL DECREASES:
Row 1 (= RS): Work row until 6-7-7 (7-8) sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K1, psso, turn piece,
Row 2 (= WS): Work row until 6-7-7 (7-8) sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P1, psso, turn piece,
Row 3 ( = RS): Work row until 5-6-6 (6-7) sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K1, psso, turn piece,
Row 4 (= WS): Work row until 5-6-6 (6-7) sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P1, psso, turn piece.
Continue dec like this with 1 less st between each dec until there are 8-10-10 (10-12) sts on row.

DECREASING TIP-1:
Dec as follows before rib: K2 tog.
Dec as follows after rib: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.

DECREASING TIP-2:
Dec as follows before marker: K2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
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SOCK:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 44-48-48 (52-56) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with off-white Fabel/Flora. Work 7-8-9 (10-11) cm rib, K2/P2.
Now keep the first 18-22-22 (22-26) sts on needle for heel and slip the remaining 26-26-26 (30-30) sts on a stitch holder = upper foot. Work 3-3½-4 (4-4½) cm stocking st on heel sts. Insert a marker in piece and now dec for heel – SEE ABOVE. After heel dec pick up 8-9-10 (11-12) sts on either side of heel and slip sts from stitch holder back on needles = 50-54-56 (62-66) sts. Continue in rib on the 26-26-26 (30-30) sts on upper foot and stocking st on remaining sts. AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st on either side of rib – SEE DECREASING TIP-1. Repeat the dec on every other round a total of 5-7-6 (7-9) times = 40-40-44 (48-48) sts. Continue with K over K and P over P until piece measures 7-8-9 (10-12) cm from marker on heel (approx 3-3-3 (4-4) cm remain). Now insert a marker each side with 20-20-22 (24-24) sts on upper foot and 20-20-22 (24-24) sts under foot. Change to soft chocolate and continue in stocking st on all sts, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st on each side of both markers – SEE DECREASING TIP-2 - on every other round 3 times and then on every round 5-5-6 (7-7) times = 8 sts left. Cut the thread, pull through remaining sts and fasten.
Sock measures approx 10-11-12 (14-16) cm.

Diagram



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 17-16) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (29)

Anki Alinder 30.06.2020 - 20:25:

Jag blir lite fundersam över varför byxmönster inte har en ökning för att göra byxan högre i bakstycket, "Förr i tiden" när mina nu vuxna barn var små gjorde man alltid byxan högre bak , Det gjorde att byxan satt uppe ordentligt i bak

Alysha Durham 26.06.2019 - 18:40:

Is the bind off 3 stitches for the back piece before or after the edge stitch and moss stitches ?

DROPS Design 27.06.2019 kl. 08:32:

Dear Mrs Durham, you will cast off the first 3 stitches at the beginning of next 2 rows (= both from RS and from WS), ie you will cast off 1 edge st and 2 stitches in stocking stitch, then continue with 1 edge st, 6 sts in moss st, stocking st until 7 sts remain, 6 sts in moss st, 1 edge st. Happy knitting!

DELATTRE MARIE PIERRE 29.04.2019 - 10:29:

Bonjour et merci pour votre réponse. C'est dommage que ce ne soit pas précisé car je pensais à un jacquard naturel/ brun. Si j'avais su je commandais Fabel. :( Merci pour vos modèles en tout cas.

DELATTRE MARIE PIERRE 27.04.2019 - 13:43:

Bonjour. Je m'apprêtais à faire ce modèle mais je me rends compte que le diagramme ne figure pas dans les explications. De plus il apparaît 3 couleurs sur le modèle : écru et 2 tons de "chocolat" or il n'est indiqué que naturel et chocolat brun. J'ai la laine et je ne peux pas faire ce travail. Urgent. MERCI !!

DROPS Design 29.04.2019 kl. 08:54:

Bonjour Mme Delattre, il n'y a pas de diagramme pour ce modèle, seulement le schéma des mesures du gilet et du pantalon (cf bas de page). On a besoin de 2 couleurs seulement, naturel (Flora ou Fabel) et si vous avez choisi brun, vous aurez un effet uni, si vous avez choisi Fabel, les différentes couleurs apparaîtront d'elles-mêmes au fur et à mesure (voir nuancier). Bon tricot!

Elisabeth 24.01.2018 - 14:05:

Hei. Jeg har funnet denne dressen "Little Nugget" hvor det er en del mønster i fine brunfargen. MEN, mønsteret følger ikke med oppskriften. Jeg ønsker å begynne på dette strikketøyet denne helgen :-(

DROPS Design 25.01.2018 kl. 11:59:

Hei Elisabeth. Om du bruker garnet som er oppgitt i oppskriften, DROPS Fabel farge nr 912, chocolate, så er dette et flerfarget nøste slik at du ikke trenger mønster. Klikk på Fargekart-linken og du vil se fargene bedre. God Fornøyelse!

Annelies Rennert 13.03.2017 - 16:41:

Hallo, bin bei den Socken. Verstehe nicht das nach 4 cm, für meine Größe, ein Markierungsfaden eingezogen werden soll. Wo wird er eingezogen d n dann soll ja einmal vor dem Faden und nach dem Faden abgenommen werden. Wieviel Reihen, dann steht auf beiden Seiten der Ferse zunehmen. Bitte um Hilfe. Mfg. A. Rennert

DROPS Design 14.03.2017 kl. 09:25:

Liebe Frau Rennert, der Markierungsfaden wird zwischen den Maschen auf der Nadel eingesetzt, so daß Sie von Markierungsfaden messen können. Dann auf beiden Seiten der Fersen werden Sie Maschen auffassen. Siehe Video für solche Socken unten. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Annelies Rennert 25.02.2017 - 13:14:

Hallo, bin bei der Hose. Wenn ich auf beiden markierten Seiten 8x 1 Masche zugenommen habe, dann stricke ich für meine gewünschte Größe bis 20cm. Dann soll am markierungsfaden die Arbeit geteilt werden und hin und zurück fertig stricken. Ja wie weit stricken? Nur die hin und rückreihe und dann auf beiden Seiten 1 neue Masche anschlagen, oder? Danke Mfg. A. Rennert

DROPS Design 27.02.2017 kl. 09:40:

Liebe Frau Rennert, Sie stricken 2 cm (2. Größe) hin und zurück, dann sollen Sie 3 M auf beiden Seiten abketten. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Annelies Rennert 15.02.2017 - 10:43:

Nach den drei Maschen abnehmen für den Arm an den Rücken und an den Vorderteilen, wie stricke ich dann weiter. Es fehlen doch die drei glatten Maschen. Wenn ich drei glatte Maschen Stricke ve schiebt sich das perlmuster ode Stricke ich nur noch drei perlmuster. Etwas schlecht erklärt.

DROPS Design 15.02.2017 kl. 12:31:

Liebe Frau Rennert, wenn Sie die 3 M auf beiden Seiten abgekettet haben, dann stricken Sie dann glatt re mit 6 M Perlmuster (= die selben wie zuvor) und 1 Randm auf beiden Seiten. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Emma 14.05.2016 - 21:09:

Hur mycket garn går det åt om man vill sticka hela setet?

DROPS Design 17.05.2016 kl. 12:08:

Hej Emma. 300 gram i mindste störrelse (100+50+100+50 gr)

Sonja Beaton 17.02.2016 - 13:20:

BabyDROPS 17-16 by DROPS Design fra: DROPS hentesett. Jakke, bukse og sokker i ”Fabel”. Hei, jeg skal strikke denne dressen men finner ikke mønster til buksa. Har skrevet det ut to ganger, men mønster er ikke der.

DROPS Design 17.02.2016 kl. 13:36:

Hej Sonja. Saa vidt jeg kan se, saa staar opskriften her, mellem jakken og sokkerne.

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