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Greyscale by DROPS Design

DROPS pleated jacket, knitted from side to side in garter st in “Alpaca” and “Cotton Viscose”. Size S – XXXL

Keywords: a-shape, garter stitch, jacket, long sleeves, sewn in sleeves, sideways, stripes, v-neck, waist shaping

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DROPS 106-1
Size: S – M – L – XL – XXL – XXXL

Materials: DROPS Alpaca, from Garnstudio
colour no 501, light grey
250-250-300-300-350-400 g
colour no 517, grey
100-150-150-150-150-200 g
colour no 101, white
50-100-100-100-100-100 g
and use: DROPS Cotton Viscose, from Garnstudio
colour no 18, pearl grey
150-150-150-200-200-200 g

DROPS pointed needles size 3.5 mm - or size needed to obtain 23 sts x 45 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS crochet hook size 3 mm – for crochet border

DROPS Silver button, no 534: 6-6-6-7-7-7 pcs

Note! On garments knitted from side to side it is extra important that the tension/gauge is totally correct both in width and hight.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Alpaca 		from 3.25 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.25 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.35 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Cotton Viscose DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose 		Discontinued
find alternatives
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Alternative colours: Redorange
Materials: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
250-250-300-300-350-400 g Nr 3620, red
100-150-150-150-150-200 g Nr 3650, red mix
50-100-100-100-100-100 g Nr 2925, orange mix
and use: DROPS Cotton Viscose
150-150-150-200-200-200 g Nr 06, rust

Alternative colours: Brown tones
Materials: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
250-250-300-300-350-400 g Nr 618, light beige
100-150-150-150-150-200 g Nr 403, middle brown
50-100-100-100-100-100 g Nr 100, off white
and use DROPS Cotton Viscose from Garnstudio
150-150-150-200-200-200 g Nr 26, brown

Alternative colours : Greygreen
Materials: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
250-250-300-300-350-400 g Nr 7120, light greygreen
100-150-150-150-150-200 g Nr 7139, greygreen
50-100-100-100-100-100 g Nr 100, off white
and use: DROPS Cotton Viscose from Garnstudio
150-150-150-200-200-200 g Nr 29, light greygreen

Alternative colours: Pink
Materials: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
250-250-300-300-350-400 g Nr 3720, medium pink
100-150-150-150-150-200 g Nr 3140, light pink
50-100-100-100-100-100 g Nr 100, off white
and use: DROPS Cotton Viscose from Garnstudio
150-150-150-200-200-200 g Nr 27, heather

Alternative colours: Bluegrey
Materials: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
250-250-300-300-350-400 g Nr 501, light grey
100-150-150-150-150-200 g Nr 6347, greypurple
50-100-100-100-100-100 g Nr 8105, iceblue
and use: DROPS Cotton Viscose from Garnstudio
150-150-150-200-200-200 g Nr 18, pearlgrey
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Knitting tip: Garter st is very elastic. The garment will therefore widen out, both width and length wise compared to the measurements in diagram.

Pleats: Work pleats in Cotton Viscose. 1 pleat is worked over shortened rows (first row = WS)
Work 75 sts, turn piece and work return row
Work 68 sts, turn piece and work return row
Work 62 sts, turn piece and work return row
Work 55 sts, turn piece and work return row
Work 49 sts, turn piece and work return row
Work 42 sts, turn piece and work return row
Work 36 sts, turn piece and work return row
Work 29 sts, turn piece and work return row
Work 23 sts, turn piece and work return row
Work 16 sts, turn piece and work return row
Work all sts on row, turn piece and work return row
Work all sts on row, turn piece and work return row
Work 16 sts, turn piece and work return row
Work 23 sts, turn piece and work return row
Work 29 sts, turn piece and work return row
Work 36 sts, turn piece and work return row
Work 42 sts, turn piece and work return row
Work 49 sts, turn piece and work return row
Work 55 sts, turn piece and work return row
Work 62 sts, turn piece and work return row
Work 68 sts, turn piece and work return row
Work 75 sts, turn piece and work return row

Measurement tip: Measure from casting on row. Measure piece at the top of pleats (i.e. where piece is most narrow).

Back piece: Knitted back and forth on needle from side to side. The whole piece is worked in garter st. See Knitting tip! Loosely cast on 102-104-106-109-111-113 sts on needle size 3.5 mm with grey Alpaca. Work 5-11-13-15-19-21 rows (first row = RS). Remember the knitting tension! At the end of next row (from WS) inc 3 sts for armhole and inc at the end of every 6 row (from WS): 3 sts 0-0-1-2-4-5 times = 105-107-112-118-126-131 sts. At the end of next row from WS cast on 38-41-40-39-35-35 sts = 143-148-152-157-161-166 sts. Continue in garter st on all sts until piece measures 9-10-11-12-14-16 cm (adjust so that next row is from RS). Now continue in pearl grey Cotton Viscose. Work 1 row and now work 1 pleat – see explanation above. After pleat work 1 row on all sts (from WS). Continue in light grey Alpaca until piece measures 17-19-21-23-26-28 cm – see Measurement tip. Now cast off 5 sts at beg of row (from RS) for neck = 138-143-147-152-156-161 sts. Continue until piece measures 25-27-29-31-36-38 cm and now cast on 5 sts at the end of row (from WS) = 143-148-152-157-161-166 sts. Continue on all sts until piece measures 32-35-38-41-47-49 cm (adjust so that next row is from RS). Continue in pearl grey Cotton Viscose, work 1 row on all sts and then work 1 pleat. After the pleat work 1 row on all sts and then continue in grey Alpaca. When piece measures approx 40-43-45-47-52-54 cm cast off 38-41-40-39-35-35 sts at the beg of row (from RS) for armhole = 105-107-112-118-126-131 sts. At the beg of next row (from RS) cast off 3 sts and dec at the beg of every 6 row (from RS): 3 sts 0-0-1-2-4-5 times = 102-104-106-109-111-113 sts. Continue until piece measures 42-46-50-54-64-66 cm and cast off loosely.

Left front piece: Knitted back and forth on needle from side towards mid front. Loosely cast on 102-104-106-109-111-113 sts on needle size 3.5 mm with grey Alpaca. Continue and inc for armhole as described for back piece = 143-148-152-157-161-166 sts. When piece measures 6-7-8-9-12-14 cm (adjust so that next row is from RS) continue in pearl grey Cotton Viscose. Work 1 row and now work 1 pleat. After pleat work 1 row on all sts (from WS). Continue in light grey Alpaca until piece measures 13-15-17-17-19-21 cm – see Measurement tip - (adjust so that next row is from RS) and continue in pearl grey Cotton Viscose. Work 1 row and then work 1 pleat. After pleat work 1 row on all sts (from WS). Now continue in white Alpaca until piece measures 3-3-3-5-6-6 cm from the last pleat (piece measures approx 17-19-21-23-26-28 cm). Now dec for neck at the beg of every row (from RS): 9-9-11-9-11-8 sts 1 time, 5 sts 7 times and 2 sts 1-1-1-2-2-4 times = 97-102-104-109-111-115 sts. Work 11 rows back and forth on all sts. Cast off loosely.

Right front piece: Knitted back and forth on needle from mid front towards the side. Loosely cast on 97-102-104-109-111-115 sts on needle size 3.5 mm with white Alpaca. Work 11 rows (first row = RS) and now inc for neck at the end of every row from WS: 2 sts 1-1-1-2-2-4 times, 5 sts 7 times and 9-9-11-9-11-8 sts 1 time = 143-148-152-157-161-166 sts. Continue until piece measures approx 10-10-10-12-13-14 cm (adjust so that next row is from RS) and continue in pearl grey Cotton Viscose. Work 1 row and now work 1 pleat. After pleat work 1 row on all sts (from WS). Continue in light grey Alpaca until piece measures approx 17-18-19-20-20-21 cm (adjust so that next row is from RS) continue in pearl grey Cotton Viscose. Work 1 row and then work 1 pleat. After pleat work 1 row on all sts (from WS). Now continue in grey Alpaca, at the same time when piece measures 4-4-3-2-2-2 cm from the last pleat cast off the first 38-41-40-39-35-35 sts (from RS) for armhole. On next row (from RS) cast off 3 sts at beg of row and dec at the beg of every 6 row: 3 sts 0-0-1-2-4-5 times = 102-104-106-109-111-113 sts. Continue until piece measures 6-7-8-9-12-14 cm from the last pleat. Cast off loosely.

Sleeve: Knitted back and forth on pointed needles in garter st. Loosely cast on 55-57-60-62-62-66 sts (incl 1 edge st each side) on needle size 3.5 mm with light grey Alpaca. Work garter st until piece measures approx 3 cm. Change to pearl grey Cotton Viscose, work 2 cm and change back to light grey Alpaca. At the same time when piece measures 5-5-5-7-9-7 cm inc 1 st each side on every 5-4-3.5-2.5-2-2 cm a total of 9-11-12-15-17-18 times = 73-79-84-92-96-102 sts. At the same time when piece measures 18 cm work 2 cm in pearl grey Cotton Viscose and now complete sleeve in light grey Alpaca. When piece measures 48-48-47-47-45-44 cm (less on the larger sizes because of larger sleeve cap) cast off 3 sts each side for armhole and dec to shape the sleeve cap each side on every other row: 2 sts 2-2-2-2-1-0 times and 1 st 10-12-14-15-24-28 times, then 2 sts each side until piece measures 54-55-55-56-56-57 cm, dec 3 sts 1 time each side and cast off. Sleeve measures approx 55-56-56-57-57-58 cm.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams and set in sleeves. Sew side and sleeve seams inside 1 edge st.

Crochet border: Crochet a border on crochet hook size 3 mm with white Alpaca round the front opening. Beg at the bottom of right front piece, work round the neck and down along left front piece as follows: 1 dc in first st, *2 ch, skip approx 1 cm, 1 dc*, repeat from *-*.

Assembly: Sew on buttons 1 cm from edge on left front piece. Place the top button approx 1 cm from neckline and the remaining buttons with approx 4 cm between each. Use crochet border on right front piece as buttonholes.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 106-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (290)

country flag Britt wrote:

Da ich sehr klein bin und die Jacke ja auch in der Länge noch nachgibt, würde ich sie gern in der Länge von Gr. S bei einer Weite von M stricken. Kann ich einfach weniger Maschen anschlagen und mich nur in den Reihen an die Vorgaben von M halten? (Beim Armausschnitt natürlich auch)

05.05.2022 - 16:59

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Britt, wahrscheinlich können Sie sowas anpassen, sollten Sie mehr Hilfe damit brauchen, wenden Sie sich bitte an Ihrem Laden, wo Sie die Wolle gekauft haben oder bei einem Strickforum, vielleicht auch beim DROPS Workshop. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

06.05.2022 kl. 07:36

country flag Ailika wrote:

Danke für die schnelle Antwort, die mir allerdings nicht weiterhilft: Wie man den Ärmel einnäht weiß ich. Das Problem ist einfach, dass die vorgegebene Form nicht passt. Um in einem Laden um Rat zu fragen, müsste ich 150 km fahren. - Übrigens kamen die angegebenen Wollmengen auch nicht hin.

23.02.2022 - 08:54

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Ailika, per Ferndiagnose ist es etwas schwierig, einen Fehler zu erkennen. Am besten machen Sie ein Foto von der Jacke mit der Ärmel und schicken das Ihrem Wollgeschäft, vielleicht kann man Ihnen dort mit Ihrem individuellen Stück weiterhelfen. Danke für Ihr Verständnis.

23.02.2022 kl. 13:54

country flag Ailika wrote:

Ich habe das Rückenteil, die Vorderteile und einen Arm fertig. Die Maschenprobe stimmt genau, ebenso die Längen und Breiten. Ich habe viel Erfahrung mit Ihren Anleitungen und glaube nicht, einen Fehler gemacht zu haben. Das Problem: Der Ärmel passt absolut nicht in das Ärmelloch aus Vorder- und Rückenteil. Das Ärmelloch ist "eckig" , die Armkugel, die eine vertraute Form hat, weicht viel zu sehr ab, als dass man etwas mit Spannen und den übrigen kleinen Tricks erreichen könnte.

22.02.2022 - 18:50

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Ailika, die 7-8-9-10-12-14 cm oben an die Ärmel sollten normaleweise in das Armloch anpassen; die Mitte von den abgeketteten Maschen soll bei der Naht am Schulter sein, und die ersten 3 abgekettenen Maschen bei der Ärmel sollen beim Vorder- und Rückenteil genäht. Am besten zeigen Sie Ihr Laden ein Foto, wenn Sie Ihre Arbeit nicht dort bringen können, so kann man Ihnen am besten helfen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

23.02.2022 kl. 08:20

country flag Anita Arngren wrote:

Tack till era fantastiska mönster och fina garner. Synd bara att man inte kan välja språk på kommentarerna. Skulle underlätta både för mig och säkert flera andra! I övrigt....bara plus!!!

11.07.2021 - 11:26

country flag Elisabeth Graf wrote:

3 M. für das Armloch aufnehmen. Weiter, am Schluss jeder 6. R. (von der linken Seite) aufnehmen: 3 M. 0-0-1-2-4-5 Mal = 105-107-112-118-126-131 M. Am Schluss der nächsten R. (von der linken Seite) 38-41-40-39-35-35 M. aufnehmen = 143-148-152-157-161-166 M. Schlag ich jetzt 3M miteinander an, oder einzeln in jeder Reihe? in der 6.Reihe wieder 3M Stehe auf dem Schlauch!! Mit lieben Grüssen Elisabeth Graf

13.07.2019 - 11:13

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Graf, diese Maschen sollen am Ende der Reihe angeschlagen werden -wie in diesem Video gezeigt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

15.07.2019 kl. 09:29

country flag Judy Maguire wrote:

I would like to knit this but see the cotton viscose is discontinued. What is an alternative yarn I can use

12.01.2019 - 11:23

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Judy, look in the yarngroup "A" for substitutes. I would try the DROPS Belle or the Drops Cotton Light yarn. Please make sure to knit a swatch and xheck the gauge before starting the project, and make adjustments if necessary.

12.01.2019 kl. 15:15

country flag Maud Engelbrektsson Jonsson wrote:

Stickade denna kofta för många år sedan och har haft STOR glädje av den och nu vill en bekant ha mönstret...hur skriver jag ut det.

13.07.2018 - 09:59

country flag Anne wrote:

Wäre ja nett gewesen, wenn in der Anleitung zur Falte wenigstens mal ein Hinweis gewesen wäre, daß man bei verkürzten Reihen mit Wendemaschen arbeitet und NICHT einfach die Arbeit umdreht und zurückstrickt. Dann hätte ich mich vorher schon mal kundig gemacht und jetzt keine Löcher in der Falte!

28.03.2018 - 11:02

country flag Maura wrote:

Nella piega in cotton viscosa si vedono molto gli aumenti e le diminuzioni, c'e un modo per renderlo meno visibile?

03.02.2018 - 17:58

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Maura, il Cotton Viscose è un filato che risente molto della lavorazione, può provare a lavare il capo e vedere se il risultato migliora. Buon lavoro!

02.07.2018 kl. 17:00

country flag Sieta Stol wrote:

Ik ben deze prachtige vest aan het breien,maar 8 cm voor de achter halslijn is dat niet te weinig voor dit model?

09.02.2017 - 13:55

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Sieta. Ja, dat is genoeg - hij valt los over de schouders.

09.02.2017 kl. 14:20

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