DROPS / 105 / 6

DROPS 105-6 by DROPS Design

DROPS top in “Paris” with yoke in garter st. Size S - XXXL.

Size: S- M – L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Materials: DROPS Paris, from Garnstudio
400-450-450-500-550-600 g colour no 16, white

DROPS pointed needles and circular needle (80 cm) size 5 mm - or size needed to obtain 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS Mother-of-pearl button, no 541, 8-8-8-9-9-9 pcs.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 0.95 £ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.05 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 0.95 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Garter st, back and forth on needle: K all rows.

Decreasing tip (applies to armhole):
All dec done from RS. Dec inside 3 garter sts.
Dec as follows after 3 sts: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
Dec as follows before 3 sts: K2 tog

Back piece: Knitted back and forth. Cast on 84-90-98-106-116-126 sts (incl 1 edge st each side) on needle size 5 mm and work 6 rows garter sts. Continue in stocking st. When piece measures 6 cm dec 1 st each side on every 5-5-5.5-5.5-6-6 cm a total of 7 times = 70-76-84-92-102-112 sts. Remember the knitting tension. When piece measures 42-43-44-45-46-47 cm work 4 rows garter st on 7-7-9-10-12-15 sts each side (work remaining sts as before). On next row cast off 4-4-6-7-9-12 sts each side for armhole and dec to shape the armhole on every other row – see Decreasing tip: 1 st 2-3-4-5-6-7 times = 58-62-64-68-72-74 sts. Continue until piece measures 47-49-50-51-53-54 cm and now put all sts on a thread.

Front piece: Cast on and work like back piece until piece measures 47-49-50-51-53-54 cm. Now put the first 46-50-50-54-56-58 sts to the right on a thread and the remaining 12-12-14-14-16-16 sts on another thread.

Yoke: Put the 12-12-14-14-16-16 sts from thread to the left on front piece on circular needle size 5 mm. Cast on 30-32-33-34-34-36 new sts over armhole, put sts from back piece on needle (= 58-62-64-68-72-74 sts), cast on 30-32-33-34-34-36 new sts over armhole and put the 46-50-50-54-56-58 sts from thread to the right on front piece on needle and now pick up 1 st at the back of the first 4 sts that was put on needle (i.e. 4 sts overlapping on front piece) = 180-192-198-208-216-224 sts in total. Work garter st back and forth on needle, at the same time after 6 rows insert 10-10-11-11-12-12 Marking Threads (MT) in piece as follows: 1 MT after 4-6-4-4-4-2 sts, *next MT after 18-19-18-19-18-19 sts*, repeat from *-* a total of 9-9-10-10-11-11 times = 14-15-14-14-14-13 sts after the last MT. On next row (from RS) dec 1 st to the left of all MT by K2 tog. Repeat the dec on every 8th row a total of 6 times = 120-132-132-142-144-152 sts. Work 1 row, at the same time dec 0-6-0-2-0-0 sts evenly = 120-126-132-140-144-152 sts. Continue until yoke measures 15-15-16-17-17-18 cm and cast off loosely.

Assembly: Sew side seam inside 1 edge st. Place the 4 overlapping sts on yoke on top of each other and sew on buttons through both layers, evenly distributed.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 105-6) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (56)

Sammi 16.08.2019 - 04:26:

Thank you for posting the video tutorial for picking up stitches behind. I have a question about placing the back piece as well as casting on the armhole stitches. When this is done, is the end result the piece will now be knit in the round or flat? That part is confusing me.

DROPS Design 16.08.2019 kl. 09:31:

Dear Sammi, once you have worked the sts on front and back pieces casting on new stitches for armholes and picking up the 4 sts behind the first 4 sts on row, you continue back and forth = in rows, in garter stitch inserting markers and then decrease at markers for the rounded yoke. Happy knitting!

Maite 29.07.2019 - 00:49:

Bonjour, je tricote ce modèle en XXL. Pour le dos, on tricote du point mousse sur 12 mailles de chaque côté sur 4 rangs. Après avoir rabattu 9 mailles de chaque côté, faut-il continuer à tricoter 3 mailles de chaque côté en point mousse ou tricoter les rangs entièrement en jersey ?

DROPS Design 29.07.2019 kl. 10:40:

Bonjour Mme Maite! Vous allez diminuer à 3 m point mousse des bords, donc vous tricotez 3 mailles en point mousse de chaque cote et les mailles restantes sont en jersey. Bon tricot!

Eva Salomonsen 05.07.2019 - 16:40:

Der står i vaskeanvisning for Drops garnet Paris, at det skal vaskes på 60 gr. og ikke under 60 grader. hvis man har vasket det på 40 gr. og der kommer misdannelser, kan det eventuelt reddes, hvis man hurtigt vasker det på 60 gr. Det har jeg aldrig hørt før. Kan det være rigtigt? og hvorfor? Og hvad kan der ske?

DROPS Design 09.07.2019 kl. 10:27:

Hej Eva, Arbejdet skulle kunne vokse eller smitte af så vi følger altid vaskeanvisningerne som kommer fra producenten. God fornøjelse!

Gretchen 04.02.2019 - 11:39:

Habe meinen Fehler gerade selbst entdeckt. Alles gut!

Gretchen 04.02.2019 - 11:28:

Ich habe Probleme mit der Maschenzahl: wenn man beim Vorderteil in XXL bei 46 cm102 Maschen habe und für die Armausschnitte beidseitig je 12 Machen abkette sowie anschließend beiidseitig je 6 Maschen abnehme, ergeben das 66 Maschen und nicht wie in der Beschreibung angegeben 72 Maschen. Wo liegt der Fehler?

DROPS Design 04.02.2019 kl. 14:18:

Liebe Gretchen, in der Grösse XXL (= 102 M) ketten Sie 9 M auf beiden Seiten = 102-18= 84 M dann nehmen Sie beidseitig 1 M 6 x = 84 M - (6 M x 2 ) = 72 M. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Christiane 19.11.2018 - 20:21:

Faut il être experte? Ou realisable pour quelqu’un qui est un peu plus que debutante? Merci

DROPS Design 20.11.2018 kl. 08:11:

Bonjour Christiane, lisez attentivement les explications, et suivez-les à la lettre. Si vous avez une question, n'hésitez pas à la poser ici directement. Rappelez-vous que votre magasin DROPS saura également vous apporter toute l'assistance souhaitée. Bon tricot!

Heather 05.03.2018 - 18:41:

Can you clarify the below. **now pick up 1 st at the back of the first 4 sts that was put on need (i.e. 4 sts overlapping on front piece). This is not clear. I don't quite understand. Thanks in advance.

DROPS Design 06.03.2018 kl. 08:38:

Dear Heather, this video shows how to pick up sts behind the first of the row to make the overlapping (make sure to pick up 4 sts as in pattern, video is showing the technique). Happy knitting!

Marianne Love 09.09.2017 - 14:36:

Fabulous just starting now Thank you for sharing this 🙏🏼💕

Karen Stumpe 29.08.2017 - 17:35:

Ik ben dropshot 105-6 aan het breien maar snap niet goed de passage waar ik voor de pas " uiteindelijk 1 st opnemen van de achterkant van de 4 eerste st op de breinaald(dwz de eerste 4 st op het voorpand (begin v d naald) moeten de laatste 4 st overlappen) kunt u mij helpen ? Dank u.

DROPS Design 06.02.2018 kl. 16:21:

Hallo Karen, Je neemt 4 steken op in de achterkant van de eerste vier steken. Op deze manier creëer je een overlappende bies van 4 steken breed.

Lone Kolster 28.07.2017 - 18:00:

Hvad vil det sige at samle masker op på bagsiden?

DROPS Design 09.08.2017 kl. 16:03:

Hej Lone, du strikker i samme masker som tidligere, men i bagerste lænk. Det vil sige at du strikker dobbelt over de 4 masker. God fornøjelse!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 105-6

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.