DROPS / 99 / 4

Breath of Summer by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS tunic with mussel pattern with 1 thread Alpaca and 1 thread Cotton Viscose or Bomull-Lin. Size S - XXL

Size: S – M – L - XL – XXL
Materials: Drops Alpaca from Garnstudio
200-200-250-250-300 g colour no 1101, white
and use:
Drops Cotton Viscose from Garnstudio
300-350-350-400-450 g colour no 01, white

Or use:
DROPS Bomull-Lin from Garnstudio
400-450-500-550-600 g colour no 01, white

Drops crochet hook size 5 mm, or size needed to obtain the correct tension

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 2.25 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 2.25 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Cotton Viscose DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Needles & Hooks

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Crochet tension: 12 tr x 7 rows with 1 thread Alpaca and 1 thread Cotton Vicose or 1 thread Bomull-Lin = 10 x 10 cm. 1 repeat of mussel pattern = width approx 12 cm.

Increasing tip 1: To inc 1 dc: crochet 2 dc in 1 dc.
Increasing tip 2: To inc 1 tr: crochet 2 tr in 1 tr (no ch in between).
Increasing tip 3: To inc 1 ch-loop: crochet 2 ch-loops in the same st.

Crochet info: At the beg of each round replace the first tr with 3 ch. Replace first dtr with 4 ch. Finish each round with 1 sl st in 3rd/4th ch from beg of round.

Pattern: See diagrams M.1 and M.2. The diagram is seen from the RS.

Measuring tip: Because of the weight of the wool all measurements should be made whilst the garment is hanging.

Back and front piece: The tunic is crochet in the round from the top down. Loosely crochet 71-75-75-79-83 ch on crochet hook size 5 mm with 1 thread Drops Alpaca and 1 thread Drops Cotton Viscose (double thread)or 1 thread Bomull-Lin. Form a ring with a sl st in the first ch. Crochet next round as follows: 1 dc in each of the first 3 ch, *skip 1 ch, 1 dc in each of the 3 next ch*, repeat from *-* = 54-57-57-60-63 dc. Now crochet a round of dc, at the same time inc 22-15-19-20-21 dc evenly – see Increasing tip 1 = 76-72-76-80-84 dc. Continue in M.1 – see Crochet info. After M.1 there are 76-90-95-100-105 ch-loops on round (1 ch-loop = 1 tr + 1 ch). Continue with tr in ch and ch over tr until piece measures 10-11-12-13-14 cm.

Crochet next round as follows:
Skip 17-19-21-22-22 ch-loops from previous round (= right sleeve), crochet 8 ch (= under arm), crochet 21-26-26-28-30 ch-loops (= front piece), skip 17-19-21-22-22 ch-loops from previous round (= left sleeve), crochet 8 ch (= under arm), crochet 21-26-27-28-31 ch-loops (= back piece). Insert a marking thread each side, in between the 8 ch crochet mid under arm. Continue in ch-loops. NB! On the first round crochet the 8 ch under each arm as follows: 1 tr in the first ch, 1 ch, skip 1 ch, 1 tr in next ch, 1 ch, 1 tr in the same ch, 1 ch, skip 1 ch, 1 tr in next ch, 1 ch, 1 tr in the same ch, 1 ch, skip 1 ch, 1 tr in next ch, 1 ch and skip 1 ch (= 6 ch-loops under each arm) = 54-64-65-68-73 ch-loops on round in total. Continue in ch-loops in the round, at the same time inc 1 ch-loop – see Increasing tip 3 – on each side of both MT on every round a total of 4-4-6-6-7 times = 70-80-89-92-101 ch-loops.
After all inc piece measures approx 19-20-23-24-27 cm measured from ch-chain at neckline (you have now reached mid chest; if you wish to adjust this crochet additional rounds in ch-loops after the inc). Now crochet 1 round in ch-loops, at the same time inc 4-2-2-14-14 tr evenly on round – see Increasing tip 2 = 144-162-180-198-216 tr/ch.
Now continue in mussel pattern M.2 (beg at start arrow in diagram) = 8-9-10-11-12 horizontal repeats on round. Crochet 3 vertical repeats of M.2, but beg the second and third repeat by the Arrow-B in diagram. After M.2 crochet 2-3-3-3-4 rounds in dtr as follows:
Round 1: Remember crochet info! Crochet 1 dtr in each ch-loop with 1 ch in between each and finish with 1 dtr in the last tr = 72-81-90-99-108 dtr.
Round 2: crochet 1 dtr in each dtr from previous round with 2 ch in between each dtr (instead of 1) – finish size S here before the last mussel pattern = 72 dtr.
Round 3: crochet 1 dtr in each dtr from previous round with 3 ch between each dtr - finish size M, L and XL here before the last mussel pattern = 81-90-99 dtr.
Round 4: crochet 1 dtr in each dtr from previous round with 3 ch between each dtr - finish size XXL here before the last mussel pattern = 108dtr.
Now crochet a round in ch-loops as follows: 1 tr and 1 ch (= 1 ch-loop) in each dtr from previous round, at the same time inc 1 ch-loop – see Increasing tip 3 – in every 3-3-4-4-4 dtr. NB! For size L and XL finish with 1 tr and 1 ch in each of the last 2-3 dtr = 96-108-112-123-135 ch-loops. Continue with 1 round of ch-loops, at the same time inc 6-0-10-6-0 tr – see Increasing tip 2 = 198-216-234-252-270 tr/ch. Now crochet M.2 again (beg at start arrow in diagram), but finish the pattern after row 7.

Diagram

= 1 ch
= 1 dc
= 1 tr
= 2 tr in 1 ch
= 1 picot (= 3 ch, 1 dc in the first ch)
= this row is described in the pattern, beg by start arrow
= 7th row


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 99-4) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (156)

Claire 15.09.2019 - 04:24:

Pattern 99-4, after 4" of M1, I don't understand how I skip 17 ch-loops, i.e. what do I do with the yarn at the end of the previous round? Is yarn reattached in order to make 8 ch for the under arm? Thanks.

DROPS Design 16.09.2019 kl. 10:24:

Dear Claire, you are now working the armholes, ie you will skip 17 ch-spaces for the sleeve and then replace these 17 ch-spaces by 8 chains (= under arm) and continue as before with ch-spaces to the 2nd armhole where you work the same way. Happy crocheting!

Crystal Peach 24.07.2019 - 20:01:

What do you mean by 1 thread? Do you separate the yarn and then combine with a separated thread from the cotton? So confused! Thanks for any help you can offer.

DROPS Design 24.07.2019 kl. 22:29:

Dear Crystal! Do not separate the yarn. You will need 2 different qualities of yarn: DROPS Alpaca (one thread) and DROPS Coton Viscose (one thread). You work with 2 threads/qualities at the same time. Happy crocheting!

Zuzi 28.08.2018 - 22:25:

Please, what mean MT and NB in pattern? Thanks

DROPS Design 29.08.2018 kl. 14:15:

Dear Zuzi, MT means Marking thread or marker, NB = Nota bene = be aware of note or information. Happy crocheting!

CHARITO PRECIADO HERRERA 24.07.2018 - 08:46:

Hay video tutorial de ésta túnica? por favor compartir.

DROPS Design 26.07.2018 kl. 14:00:

Hola Charito, De momento no hay un tutorial completo para elaborar esta prenda. Tienes vídeos sugeridos bajo el patrón que te pueden ayudar con la labor.

Kati 11.06.2018 - 05:08:

I wear size S or M, but the circumference of my arms is at least 36 cm... What am I supposed to do, as even in size M, 32 cm for arms is not enough for me?!

DROPS Design 11.06.2018 kl. 09:55:

Dear Kati, compare the measurement in the chart to a similar garment you have and like the shape - the measurements are taken flat from side to side. Read more about sizing here. Happy crocheting!

Annette 04.04.2018 - 22:56:

I do not understand the increasing from 101 to 216. I found this answer, but I’m still confused. “Dear Mrs Dixon, when you inc 14 tr, you only work tr (no ch in between - see Increasing tip 2), so that you have 101 tr + 101 ch + 14 tr = 216 tr/ch on this round. Happy crocheting!” Am I now crocheting in each STITCH instead of space??

DROPS Design 05.04.2018 kl. 08:55:

Dear Annette, when you have 101 ch-spaces, there is a total of 202 sts, ie 101 tr + 101 ch. When inc 14 tr, you will crochet in the ch-spaces as before but 2 tr instead of 1 tr evenly spaced = 216 sts (115 tr and 101 ch-spaces). Happy crocheting!

Annette 19.03.2018 - 01:35:

I’m just starting this pattern. I’m to where I start the M.1, and I don’t understand what “og” means for size XXL. Please help.

DROPS Design 19.03.2018 kl. 08:05:

Hi Annette, "og" is the Norwegian word for "and" and we have overlooked the translation here. Apologies. Happy crocheting!

Wendy Ambuhl 21.07.2017 - 20:33:

I got it! I was counting spaces, not stitches! :)

Wendy Ambuhl 20.07.2017 - 20:38:

Ok. So I got 198 stitches by adding 14 stitches. On the next row, do i put a dc and ch between the 2 stitches of my increase? For example, I have made two dc, with no ch between, in one ch-loop. On the next round, do I make a ch-loop between the 2 dc where there is no ch? I cannot get the numbers to come out even to go on from here!

DROPS Design 21.07.2017 kl. 08:30:

Dear Mrs Ambuhl, there are now 198 sts (= dc and chains), repeat M.2 (= 18 sts) a total of 11 times in the round so that you have 18 sts x 11 = 198 sts. On 1st row in M.2 (= row with arrow "start"), work 1 dc, 1 ch, skip 1 ch (either dc or ch), 1 dc in next st (either dc or ch). Happy crocheting!

Wendy Ambuhl 18.07.2017 - 16:17:

I understand the part about 198 ch-loops before the mussel pattern. But what does each symbol stand for on row z? Do they stand for each ch, dc, or both? If so, do I work into every other ch-loop? I find this diagram confusing.

DROPS Design 19.07.2017 kl. 08:24:

Dear Mrs Ambuhl, each symbol on row Z represents 1 stitch, either 1 dc or 1 ch, M.2 is worked over 18 sts (dc and ch). Happy crocheting!

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