DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.85 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale


Knitted top and hat with lace pattern, in DROPS Muskat or DROPS Belle. Size children 5 to 14 years.

DROPS Children 15-6
DROPS Design: Pattern nr R-025-bn

Size (years):
5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 - 13/14
Size in cm:
110/116 – 122/128 – 134/140 – 146/152 - 158/164

Materials: DROPS Muskat from Garnstudio
200-250-250-250-300 g colour no. 18, white

Or use:
DROPS Belle from Garnstudio
200-200-200-200-250 g colour no. 01, white

DROPS circular needles size 4.5 mm or the size needed to obtain the correct knitting tension.


Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.85 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: 20 sts x 26 row on needles size 4.5 mm in stocking sts with Muskat or Belle = 10 x 10 cm.

Pattern: See diagrams M.1 and M.2. The diagrams are shown from the RS.

Garter sts round on needle: 1st round: K, 2nd round: P
Garter sts back and forth: Knit on all rows.

Decreasing tips (apply for the arm hole): All decreases are done from the RS. Dec as follows for the arm holes inside 4 garter sts:
Before 4 garter sts: K2 tog.
After 4 garter sts: slip a st as if to knit, K1, psso.

Back and front piece:
Knit around. Bend the circular needle double (or use 2 needles) and cast on 144-160-160-176-176 sts using 2 needles with Muskat or Belle(this will make the casting on edge more elastic). Pull out one needle. Insert a marking thread (MT) at the beg. of round and 1 MT after 72-80-80-88-88 sts (= the sides). Knit 4 rounds of garter sts – see explanation above. Continue according to M.1 – see explanation above. When M.1 is completed 1 vertical repeat continue in stocking sts over all sts. At the same time dec. 1 st each side on the MT on every 10-6-15-7-15 cm a total of 2-4-2-4-2 times (= 4 dec. on round) = 136-144-152-160-168 sts. When the piece measures 27-29-31-33-35 cm knit 2 round of garter sts over 14 sts each side (7 sts each side of the MT). On the next round cast off the mid 6 sts for the arm holes each side. Now continue each part separately.

Back piece: =62-66-70-74-78 sts. Continue with 4 garter sts towards the armholes. Then dec. 1 sts for the armhole on every other row – read decreasing tips 2-3-4-5-6 times = 58-60-62-64-66 sts. When the piece measures 42-45-48-51-54 cm cast off the mid 26-28-30-32-32 sts for the neck. Continue to cast off 1 st each side of the neck = 15-15-15-15-16 sts left for each shoulder. Cast off when the piece measures 44-47-50-53-56 cm.

Front piece: = 62-66-70-74-78 sts. Continue with 4 garter sts towards the arm hole: Cast off for armholes as done for the back piece. At the same time when the piece measures 30-32-34-36-38 cm knit 2 rows of garter sts over thee mid 6 sts (knit other sts as before). On the next row put half of the sts on a thread or a stitch holder and finish each side separately.
Side-1: Continue the dec. for the arm holes. Knit 4 garter sts at the side and 3 garter sts towards the slit. Inside the 3 garter sts for the slit knit according to M.2 - see diagram. When the piece measures 39-42-44-47-49 cm put 8-9-10-11-11 sts at the mid front on a thread or a stitch holder for the neck. Then cast off for the neck on every other row as follows: 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 2 times = 15-15-15-15-16 sts left for each shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 44-47-50-53-56 cm.
Side -2: Put sts from the thread or stitch holder back on needle. Knit as side-1 but reverse.

Assembly: Sew the shoulder seams.

Neck edge: Pick up approx. 66-82 sts (incl. the sts from the thread or stitch holder) around the neck on circular needles size 4.5 mm. Knit 4 rows of garter sts back and forth from the mid front. Cast off loosely.

Knitted hat with pattern in DROPS Muskat

Size: 5/9 years - 10/14 years
Materials: DROPS Muskat from Garnstudio.
100-100 g colour no 71, purple mix

DROPS needles size 3 mm – or the needle size needed to obtain correct knitting tension.
DROPS crochet hook size 3 mm (for crochet edge).
Steel wire – approx 1 m fine steel wire

Knitting tension: 21 sts x 46 rows on needles size 3 mm with Drops Muskat in garter sts = 10 x 10 cm

Pattern: See diagram M.3. Diagrams are seen from RS. 1 row = RS

Garter sts back and forth: Knit all rows.


Knit back and forth on needle.
Cast on 133-145 sts loosely (incl 1 edge st each side) on needle size 3 mm with Drops Muskat, knit garter sts.
When piece measures 5 cm dec 35-35 sts evenly by K2 tog approx every 3rd -4th sts = 98-110 sts.
Continue in garter sts 1 cm, then knit M.3 with 1 edge st each side. After M.3 is knitted 1 time in height continuing in garter sts until piece is completed.
When piece measures 14-16 cm insert 8-9 marking threads (MT) in piece from RS as follows:
Knit 2-2 sts, insert 1 MT, * knit 12 sts insert 1 MT *, repeat from *-* 7-8 times in total. After last MT 12-12 sts are left, garter sts these sts. Dec 1 sts from RS on left side of all MT on every other row 11 times in total = 10-11 sts left on row. '
Pull 1 thread through remaining sts and sew on well. Sew hat tog mid back in outermost part of outer most sts to make slim and neat seam.
Hat measures approx 19-21 cm in height.
Tie 1 thin steel wire along the casting on edge of hat. Crochet 1 round with dc on crochet hook size 3 mm around steel wire + casting on edge, this is done to make hat firm at bottom edge.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 02.08.2023
The number of stitches in the larger size has been edited to let the pattern work (hat). Correction diagram text.


symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = slip 1 stitch as to knit, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over knitted stitch
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 as if to knit, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over knitted stitches together

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (83)

country flag Catherine wrote:

Bonjour, ma petite fille voudrait que je lui tricote la tunique seule, pas le chapeau. Combien dois je commander de pelotes? Merci pour votre réponse.

06.03.2024 - 21:48

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Catherine, vous trouverez la quantité nécessaire pour chaque taille dans l'en-tête, celui du chapeau figure au milieu de la page environ. Il faudra par ex en taille 5/6 ans 200 g DROPS Muskat ou DROPS Belle au choix / 50 g la pelote - 4 pelotes. Bon tricot!

07.03.2024 - 08:07

country flag Marja wrote:

Virhe suomenkielisessä ohjeessa Hatun ohjeessa. Hattu tehdään M.3 diagrammin mukaan, ei M.1 kuten ohjeessa virheellisesti sanotaan. Englannin, saksan ja norjankielisissä ohjeissa sanotaan M.3. Ja, näkeehän sen myös hatusta kun kuvaa suurentaa. Toisekseen, suomenkielisiä vastauksia joutuu täällä odottamaan todella kauan. Toisinaan vastauksia ei saa ollenkaan.

03.03.2024 - 13:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, tämä pitää paikkansa. Ohje on nyt korjattu!

05.03.2024 - 17:34

country flag Marja wrote:

Ei tarvitse vastata. Englanninkielisiltä sivuilta löytyy piirrokset. kiitos vaan

03.03.2024 - 09:30

country flag Marja wrote:

Olisiko mahdollista saada ohje piirrokset näkyville?

29.02.2024 - 19:41

DROPS Design answered:

Nyt piirrokset avautuvat.

05.03.2024 - 17:35

country flag Marja wrote:

Miten piirrokset saa näkyville?

20.02.2024 - 09:20

country flag Marja wrote:

Hei. Piirrokset eivät näy nyt sivustolla. ei mallineuleet eikä kokokaaviot.

14.02.2024 - 10:31

country flag Lillemor wrote:

Det gjelder hatten igjen har dere forbuttet forklaringene på skråstrekrne over 3 masker. Det første kast og 2 smn. Nede i h hjørne skal vel lene til venstre og neste 2 smn og kast skal lene til høyre. Men det blir motsatt når jeg følger Tegnforklaringen

18.07.2023 - 19:53

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lillemor. Se vårt svar på ditt forrige spørsmål :) (om du ikke vil vente på en evnt rettesel fra Design avd., ville jeg ha strikket de ikonene motstatt av slik det står). mvh DROPS Design

26.07.2023 - 11:13

country flag Lillemor wrote:

Jeg ser på masketallet på hatten. Det bør vel være et multiplum av 12 + 2 kantmansker. Dere starter med 12 m differanse, men når man starter på M1 (b) så er det 16 m i differanse og ingen av tallene gir 2 kantmaster pluss et helt antall av rapporten. Skal det stå 98 m - 110 m (som gir 8-9 repetisjoner av mønsteret). I så fall er antall fellemasker feil. Jeg har sjekka rettelsene

18.07.2023 - 14:51

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lillemor Maskeantallet i den minste str. stemmer, men ikke den største str. Oppskriften er oversendt Design avd. slik at de kan dobbeltsjekke og evnt komme med en rettelse. De vil også sjekke diagramikonene i diagrammet. mvh DROPS Design

26.07.2023 - 10:45

country flag Debbie wrote:

Hi- after you garter st 7 stitches b4 & after st marker for armhole & binding - the decrease starts but there is no mention of the garter st cont around the armholes- so why garter?

21.05.2023 - 19:21

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Debbie, you have knitted 7 stitches in garter stitch on each side of the marker (14 stitches on each armhole). Then, you cast off the middle 6 stitches on each armhole, so you will have 4 stitches in garter stitch towards the armholes on each side of each armhole. As you can see in the back piece and front piece, you will continue working these 4 stitches in garter stitch until they have been decreased. The garter stitch is used just for the edge of the armhole, so that the edge will not be rolled. Happy knitting!

21.05.2023 - 20:08

country flag Roosa wrote:

Hei! Hatun ohjeessa (korjauksessa) lukee näin: "Kun olet neulonut M.1:n mukaan kerran korkeudessa, jatka neulomalla ainaoikeaa lopulliseen mittaan asti. Kun työn korkeus on 14-16 cm, kiinnitä 8-9 merkkilankaa työhön oikealta puolelta näin:" Mistä tuo korkeus 14-16cm mitataan? Luomisreunasta, vai siitä, kun kuvio loppuu ja jatketaan neulomalla ainaoikeaa? Kiitokset jo etukäteen!

09.05.2023 - 10:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, korkeus mitataan luomisreunasta.

10.05.2023 - 17:16