DROPS / 98 / 7

Pom Pom Adore Slippers by DROPS Design

DROPS Crochet slippers in Eskimo

Tags: slippers, toe up,
Size: 35/37 – 38/40 – 42/44
Foot length: 22 - 25 - 28 cm

Materials: DROPS Eskimo from Garnstudio
200-200-200 g colour no 01, off-white
and use: DROPS Puddel from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes colour no 01, off-white

Drops crochet hook size 8 mm - or size needed to obtain the correct crochet tension.

The foot section of this pattern is also used for Drops no 25, 26 and 27.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
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DROPS Eskimo uni colour DROPS Eskimo uni colour 1.35 £ /50g
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DROPS Eskimo mix DROPS Eskimo mix 1.55 £ /50g
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DROPS Eskimo print DROPS Eskimo print 1.70 £ /50g
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DROPS Puddel DROPS Puddel
94% Mohair, 6% Polyester
Discontinued
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Crochet tension: 11 dc = 10 cm in the width.
Crochet info:
Substitute the first dc at the beginning of round/row with 1 ch. Finish each round with 1 sl st in the ch from beg of previous round (1 sl st in the ch from beg of previous row when crocheting back and forth).

Foot: Beginning with the toe, crochet in Eskimo and hook size 8 mm as follows:
1st round: Crochet 3 ch and make a loop with a sl st in the first ch.
2nd round: Crochet 5-5-6 dc around the loop – read crochet info!
3rd round: 2 dc in each dc = 10-10-12 dc.
4th round: *1 dc in the first dc, 2 dc in the next dc*, repeat from *-* = 15-15-18 dc.
5th – 7th round: Crochet 1 dc in each dc.
8th round: *1 dc in the first dc, 1 dc in the second dc and 2 dc in the third dc*, repeat from *-* = 20-20-24 dc.
Continue to crochet 1 dc into each dc until the piece measures approx 11-13-14 cm.

Heel: Now divide the piece and crochet back and forth from the centre top of the foot – remember crochet info – 1 dc into each dc.
When the slipper measures approx 22-25-28 cm place it flat and crochet it tog at the centre back with a row of dc through both layers. Cut the thread and sew.

Leg: Crochet 1 round of dc round the opening of the slipper (beginning at the centre front). Continue round with 1 dc in each dc until the leg measures 11 cm, continue to crochet back and forth from the centre front as follows:
1st row: Turn the piece and crochet back until 1 st left (which should be left un-worked from now on).
2nd row: Turn the piece and crochet back over the sts from previous row until 1 st left (which should be left un-worked from now on) = 2 sts at the centre front.
3rd row: Turn the piece and crochet over the sts from previous row.
Cut the thread.
Continue to crochet around the edge of the leg in Puddel as follows.
1st round: 1 dc in each dc round all of the leg (incl the slit at the centre front). Finish with a sl st in the first dc.
2nd round: *3 ch, 1 dc in the following st*, repeat from *-*, and finish with a sl st in the first ch from beg of round.
Cut the thread.

Assembly: Make a pompom with a diameter of 5 cm in Puddel (please see Garnstudio’s Technique Pages on the pattern front page). Sew the pompom to the slipper at the centre front between the leg and the foot.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 98-7) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (63)

Raquel 17.10.2019 - 21:08:

Estoy intentando hacer las pantuflas, pero no con las instrucciones ni con el vídeo me apaño. ¿Habría la posibilidad de tener un patrón dibujado? En caso de no poder, agradecería si me pudierais dar más detalles de las vueltas y puntos.

DROPS Design 17.10.2019 kl. 21:19:

Hola Raquel. Este patrón no tiene diagrama. Se comienza en la punta del pie y se trabaja en redondo hasta el empeine. A partir de aquí se trabaja de ida y vuelta desde el centro del empeine para formar el talón. Al terminar se hace la costura en el centro posterior y se trabaja la parte de la pierna. Puedes acercarte a una tienda especializada DROPS o contactar por teléfono o e-mail para obtener más ayuda.

Kajsa Claesson 10.11.2016 - 16:18:

Jag har provat både och men får de ändå inte att stämma. Gjorde lösare efter första gången då de blev trångt.

Kajsa Claesson 10.11.2016 - 16:15:

Hej ! Hela toffeln blir alldeles för smal får inte på den på foten. Vad gör jag för fel? /Kajsa

DROPS Design 10.11.2016 kl. 16:17:

Hej Kajsa. Har du set mit svar til dig herunder?

Kajsa Claesson 09.11.2016 - 20:58:

Hej ! Hela toffeln blir alldeles för smal får inte på den på foten. Vad gör jag för fel? /Kajsa

DROPS Design 10.11.2016 kl. 13:02:

Hej Kajsa. Haekler du for stramt (stemmer din haeklefasthed)?

Eva Lundberg 11.02.2016 - 15:40:

Jag förstår inte då jag läser mönstret, hur mitt uppe på foten kan vara en beskrivning på hälen, jag vill gärna virka denna toffel.

DROPS Design 03.03.2016 kl. 15:31:

Hej Eva, jo men har du försökt? Se vidoen:

DROPS Crocheting Tutorial: How to work a slipper from the toe, heel and leg. from Garnstudio Drops design on Vimeo.

Cheryl 03.11.2015 - 21:16:

I still do not understand what it means to divide the piece and crochet back and forth

DROPS Design 04.11.2015 kl. 09:11:

Dear Cheryl, when you have worked in the round until you have reached the stated measurement for your size, do not work in the round anymore, but work in rows, ie at the end of next row, do not join with a sl st at the beg of row, but turn and work next row from WS. At the end of next row, turn and work next row from RS. Continue like this working alternately from RS and WS, this will create the opening for leg. When you have reached the final measurement for slipper, fold last row double and crochet tog 1 row in both layers (mid back on heel). Happy crocheting!

April Cox 04.09.2015 - 05:01:

I prefer a tighter pattern so there are not holes. Can I just use sc instead of double and still have it look nice? Any other suggestions. I want to keep feet toasty warm!

DROPS Design 04.09.2015 kl. 10:13:

Dear Mrs Cox, this pattern is worked with dc (UK-English) = sc (US-English), click here for the pattern written in US-English or change language clicking on the arrow "change language" below picture. Happy crocheting!

Caroline 17.05.2015 - 21:55:

Hello, I'm considering this pattern as a starter crochet project, reading through the pattern I understand it until it says 'Heel: Now divide the piece and crochet back and forth from the centre top of the foot' how is it divided? do you do one side at a time from the centre front = 1 dc into 10 dc, then join the heel. Thank you.

DROPS Design 18.05.2015 kl. 10:32:

Dear Caroline, after you have worked foot in the round, you continue back and forth from the middle on top of foot, working 1 dc in each dc. When the slipper has reached the correct measurement, fold piece double with opening (for leg) at the top and crochet 1 row dc in both layers (see video below). Happy crocheting!

Deemah 22.10.2014 - 08:39:

Sorry but I didn't understand this part and there is no video for it ..the of the heel!

DROPS Design 22.10.2014 kl. 10:12:

Dear Deemah, the video below shows how to fold the piece in double and crochet together through both layers to "close" heel. Happy crocheting!

Deemah 18.10.2014 - 14:34:

Hello it's a nice pattern but would you do a video for it please because so many things I didn't understand it please do a video it good when we see some one works !?

DROPS Design 20.10.2014 kl. 10:00:

Dear Deemah, you will find several relevant videos to this pattern on the right side of the picture under tab "video". You start on the toe working in the round, then continue back and forth (for the opening of leg), then crochet tog the mid back. Finish then crocheting in the round around the opening of leg for the cuff. Happy crocheting!

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