DROPS / 97 / 13

Pecan Pie by DROPS Design

DROPS Jumper with a deep and chunky neckband in “Eskimo”

Size: S – M – L – XL - XXL
Materials: DROPS Eskimo from Garnstudio
550-600-650-750-800 g colour n. 34, rust mix

Drops pointed needles size 9 mm or size needed to obtain the correct tension.
Drops pointed and circular needles size 8 mm (for the Rib)

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
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DROPS Eskimo uni colour DROPS Eskimo uni colour 1.90 £ /50g
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DROPS Eskimo mix DROPS Eskimo mix 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Eskimo print DROPS Eskimo print 2.40 £ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: 10 sts x 14 rows on needles size 9 mm in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm.

Front piece: Cast on 41-47-50-56-59 sts (incl. 1 edge st each side) on needles size 8 mm in Eskimo and P the first row from the WS.
Continue to knit the Rib as follows:
Size S + M + XXL: 1 edge st, *K3, P3*, repeat from *-* and finish with K3 and 1 edge st.
Size L + XL: 1 edge st *K3, P3*, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 edge st.
When the Rib measures 16 cm change to needles size 9 mm. Knit 1 row from the RS at the same time adjust the number of sts on row to 42-46-50-55-60. K 1 row from the WS and continue in stocking sts. Remember the knitting tension! When the piece measures 19 and 28 cm in. 1 st each side. At the same time when the piece measures 24-24-24-26-26-cm cast off the centre 6-6-6-7-8 sts for the neck. Continue to cast off at each neck side on every other row: 1 st 5 times and then on every 4th row: 1 st 2-2-3-3-3 times and then on every 6th row: 1 st 1-2-2-2-2 times. At the same time when the piece measures 33-34-35-36-37 cm cast off for the armhole at each side on every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 0-1-1-2-3 times and 1 st 2-1-2-2-2 times. When all inc and dec are completed there are 7 sts left for each shoulder. Cast off when the piece measures 52-54-56-58-60 cm.

Back piece: Cast on as done for the front piece and P the 1st row from the WS.
Continue the Rib as follows:
Size S + M + XXL: 1 edge st, *P3, K3*, repeat from *-* and finish with P3 and 1 edge st.
Size L + XL: 1 edge st, *K3, P3*, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 edge st.
When the Rib measures 16 cm change to needle size 9 mm and continue as done for the front piece. Inc at the sides and cast off for the armholes as done for the front piece = 36-38-40-41-42 sts. Continue to knit until the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58 cm. Cast off the centre 20-22-24-25-26 sts and on the following row cast off 1 more st each side of the neck = 7 sts left for each shoulder. Cast off remaining sts when the piece measures 52-54-56-58-60 cm.

Sleeve: Cast on 30-37-37-44-44 sts (incl. 1 edge st each side) on needle size 8 mm in Eskimo and P the 1st row from the WS. Continue to knit in Rib as follows: 1 edge st, *K3, P4*, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 edge st. When the sleeve measures 4 cm dec all P4 to P3 = 26-32-32-38-38 sts. When the piece measures 16 cm change to needle size 9 mm. Knit 2 rows of garter sts and continue in stocking sts. When the piece measures 18 cm inc 1 st each side on every 7-14-9-13-8 cm a total of 5-3-4-3-4 times = 36-38-40-44-46 sts. When the piece measures 48-48-47-47-45 cm cast off for the sleeve cap each side on every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1-1-2-2-2 times and 1 st 2-2-1-1-1 times, continue to cast off 2 st each side until the piece measures 55-55-55-56-56 cm and then cast off 3 sts each side 1 time. Cast off remaining sts when the piece measures approx. 56-56-56-57-57 cm.

Assembly: Sew the shoulder seams.
Neck band: Pick up 94-106-118-117-130 sts around the neck on circular needles size 8 mm in Eskimo- begin just before the centre 4-4-4-3-4 sts at the centre front – NB: If picking up more or less sts., adjust the number of sts on the 2nd round.
P 1 round, K 1 round. Continue to knit in Rib as follows: K4 (size XL K3) = the centre front, *P3, K4*, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, *P3, K3*, repeat from *-* a total of 2-3-4-4-5 times, P3, *K4, P3*, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, *K3, P3*, repeat from *-* a total 2-3-4-4-5 times, *K4, P3*, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times. When the Rib measures 5 cm dec. all K4 to K3 as follows: K the 2 centre sts tog. = 84-96-108-108-120 sts. When the Rib measures 15 cm inc all K3 to K4 = 98-112-126-126-140 sts – inc as follows: K2 in the last of the 3 sts. When the Rib measures 26-27-27-28-28 cm cast off loosely with K over K and P over P.
Insert the sleeves. Sew the sleeve and the side seams inside 1 edge st.

Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 97-13) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (72)

Mariska 07.05.2019 - 16:41:

Ben inmiddels met de trui begonnen maar heb het al 3x uitgehaald. Word er met de aantal cm's gesproken over de totale hoogte van het werk. Of word de 16 cm boord niet meegerekend? Lijkt mij dat het anders niet klopt. Bij 24 cm moet ik al minderen voor de hals? En als ik het plaatje dan vergelijk met mijn gebreide werk dan denk ik gaat dat wel goed? Ik wacht uw reactie af, dan begin ik vast met het achterpand ;)

DROPS Design 15.05.2019 kl. 21:16:

Dag Mariska,

Je begint inderdaad al op 24 cm te minderen voor de hals midden voor en dit is inclusief de boord onderaan, dus gemeten vanaf de opzetrand. De hals valt namelijk heel erg laag in dit patroon.

Mariska 04.05.2019 - 08:58:

Goeiemorgen, kan ik de col ook breien op een gewone naald? Want met een rondbrei naald lukt me echt niet.

DROPS Design 05.05.2019 kl. 16:32:

Dag Mariska

In de rondte breien op gewone naalden gaat lastig, maar je zou er bijvoorbeeld wel voor kunnen kiezen om de col in 2 of 3 losse delen te breien, die je later aan elkaar naait en dan daarna in zijn geheel aan de trui naait.

Yvonne 04.02.2019 - 14:43:

Ik heb een probleem met de col. Ik heb hem nu voor de tweede keer afgekant maar het blijft te strak en krult naar binnen toe. Ik gebruik andere wol die nauwelijks rekt. Kan ik bij het afkanten een paar extra steken breien zodat het losser valt?

DROPS Design 08.02.2019 kl. 17:38:

Dag Yvonne,

Je kan bij het afkanten steeds om de paar steken een omslag maken welke je tegelijkertijd afkant en/of een naald in een maat groter gebruiken.

Sonja Bruin 06.12.2014 - 21:53:

Ik ben nu met de mouw begonnen en dan moet ik bij een hoogte van 18 cm voor de tweede maat 3 x 1 st meerderen aan weerskanten elke 14 cm. als ik dat doe kom ik niet uit met de mouw, die wordt dan veel langer dan het patroon is. Zit hier een fout in of lees ik het gewoon verkeerd?

DROPS Design 09.12.2014 kl. 16:55:

Hoi Sonja. Je meerdert in totaal 3 keer, bij 18 en dan nog 2 keer met 14 cm tussen, dus op 32 en 46 cm. Je kant dan af voor de mouwkop op 48 cm.

Natalie 05.12.2014 - 18:02:

Ist diese Farbe noch erhältlich (Eskimo Nr. 34 rust meliert)? Sieht super aus! Ich konnte sie bis anhin nicht finden.

DROPS Design 07.12.2014 kl. 10:48:

Liebe Nathalie, die Anleitung ist schon älter und die verwendete Farbe inzwischen leider nicht mehr im Sortiment. Aber Eskimo hat noch viele andere schöne Farben zu bieten, vielleicht finden Sie ja eine gute Alternative.

Priscilla 20.03.2014 - 12:55:

Dit wordt de eerste keer dat ik een kledingstuk ga breien en een patroon ga volgen. Het overgrote deel is me duidelijk, alleen het begin van alle delen behalve de col is me niet duidelijk. -brei de eerste naald op de verkeerde kant av- betekent dit dat ik aan de verkeerde kant begin, dus direct na opzetten 1 naald av breien?

DROPS Design 02.04.2014 kl. 11:47:

Hoi Priscilla. Ja, je breit meteen 1 nld av na het opzetten van de st, en je rekent deze eerste nld als de verkeerde kant. Veel breiplezier.

Inghettina 06.01.2014 - 17:16:

Hartelijk dank voor de reactie. Nepal is dus dunner dan Eskimo...ik weet niet hoe ik dat opnieuw moet berekenen...en voor een dubbele draad heb ik helaas niet genoeg wol. Is er een soortgelijke trui die ik dan wel kan breien met Nepal?

Inghettina 02.01.2014 - 15:18:

Ik zou graag willen weten of deze trui te breien is met Nepal wol...en zo ja welk nummer breipen ik dan gebruiken moet. Met Eskimo wol is dat 9 lees ik, maar ik denk dat Nepal dikker is? Ik heb die wol namelijk over... Hartelijk dank voor de hulp!

DROPS Design 06.01.2014 kl. 13:41:

Hoi Inghettina. DROPS Nepal is dunner dan DROPS Eskimo en ik denk dat het dan veels te los wordt met de stekenverhouding aangegeven in dit patroon. Standaard kan je Nepal breien op naalden 5. Je kan kiezen om het patroon te breien met een dubbele draad Nepal op nld 9 of je moet het hele patroon opnieuw berekenen voor nld 5 (met hulp van de stekenverhouding). Brei altijd eerst een proeflapje!

Saskia 14.12.2013 - 22:06:

14 moet natuurlijk 47 zijn...

Saskia 14.12.2013 - 22:05:

Als beginnend breister weet ik duidelijk niet hoe ik dit patroon moet lezen, want ik loop al vast bij het opzetten van het voorpand, 47 st voor M, dat kan haast niet 14 steken zijn... maar wat is het wel?

DROPS Design 16.12.2013 kl. 16:41:

Hoi Saskia. Dat klopt wel. De stekenverhouding is 10 st per 10 cm, dus met 47 cm (en de correcte stekenverhouding) kom je uit op een breedte van 47 in tricotst en omdat je begint met boordst zal het nog wat verder samentrekken (tot rond de 44 cm) Brei altijd eerst een proeflapje om zeker te zijn van de stekenverhouding. Succes.

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