DROPS / 95 / 36

Loch Tay by DROPS Design

Crochet Bolero in DROPS Cotton Viscose or Safran and DROPS Melody. Size XS/S - XXL.

Size: XS/S – S - M – L - XL - XXL

Materials: DROPS Cotton Viscose from Garnstudio
200-200-250-250-300-300 g colour no. 11, khaki green
or use
DROPS Safran from Garnstudio
150-150-200-200-250-250 g colour no. 50, mint

and use:
DROPS Vienna from Garnstudio
50-50-50-50-50 g colour no. 16, moss green
or use: DROPS Melody from Garnstudio
50 g colour no 19 light sea green

DROPS Crochet Hook size 4
DROPS Crochet Hook size 6 (for borders)

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Crochet gauge: 17 dtr x 6 rows = 10 x 10 cm

Crochet info: At the beginning of each row replace 1 dtr with 4 ch, and finish each row with 1 dtr in 4th ch from beginning of previous row. Crochet in each st and not in between.

Decreasing tips (applies to armhole and neck):
Dec as follows at beginning of row: replace 1 dtr with a sl st.
Dec as follows at end of row: Turn the piece when number of dtr to be dec are left on row and crochet next row.

Increasing tips (applies to slope at front): Increase new sts towards mid front by crocheting ch's in last st from previous row. Crochet the same number of ch's as the number of dtr's to be increased, but as the first dtr on next row is to be replaced by 4 ch, replace the last ch with 4 ch, i.e. if you are to increase 5 dtr crochet 8 ch, turn the piece, crochet 1 dtr in 5th ch from the hook and then 1 dtr in each of the remaining ch's, continue on row with 1 dtr in each dtr from previus row.

Back piece: Loosely crochet 80-88-99-112-123-136 ch using hook size 4 and Cotton Viscose or Safran.
Crochet the 1st row as follows: 1 dtr in the 5th ch from the hook, *skip 1 ch, 1 dtr in each of the next 3 ch* repeat from *-* but for size XS + S + L + XXL finish with 1 dtr in the last 2 ch’s (instead of the last 3 ch) and for size M + XL finish with 1 dtr in the last ch (instead of the last 3 ch’s) = 58-64-72-82-90-100 dtr. Now crochet 1 dtr in each dtr from previous row – see Crochet info. At the same time after 2-2-3-3-3-3 rows inc 1 dtr each side by crocheting 1 extra dtr in the last but one dtr each side as follows:
Size XS + S + M: on every other row, Size L + XL + XXL: on every 3rd row a total of 5-5-5-4-4-4 times = 68-74-82-90-98-108 dtr. When piece measures approx 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm dec for armhole each side on every other row – see Decreasing tips: 3-3-4-6-7-9 dtr’s 1 time, 2 dtr’s 0-0-1-1-2-3 times and 1 dtr 1-2-3-4-4-4 times = 60-64-64-66-68-70 dtr. When piece measures approx 35-37-39-41-43-45 cm (only 1 row left until finished measurements) crochet 1 row over only the outermost 20-21-21-21-21-22 dtr’s each side (i.e. do not crochet over the middle 20-22-22-24-26-26 dtr’s = neck). Cut the thread, piece measures approx 37-39-41-43-45-47 cm.

Left front piece: Loosely crochet 28-29-32-35-37-40 ch using crochet hook size 4 and Cotton Viscose or Safran.
Crochet the 1st row as follows: 1 dtr in the 5th ch from the hook, *skip 1 ch, 1 dtr in each of the next 3 ch* repeat from *-* but for size XS + M + XXL finish with 1 dtr in the last 2 ch’s (instead of the last 3 ch ) and for size L finish with 1 dtr in the last ch (instead of the last 3 ch’s) = 19-20-22-24-26-28 dtr. Now crochet 1 dtr in each dtr from previous row as for back piece, at the same time inc towards mid front on every other row (i.e. on every row towards mid front) – see Increasing tips: 5 dtr’s 1-1-2-2-2-2 times, 4 dtr’s 1-1-0-0-0-0 times, 3 dtr’s 0-0-0-1-1-2 times, 2 dtr’s 1-2-2-2-3-3 times and 1 dtr 1-1-2-2-2-2 times. At the same time inc at side as for back piece. At the same time when piece measures 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm – compare to back piece – dec for armhole as described for back piece. At the same time when piece measures 26-26-26-28-28-30 cm dec for neckline towards mid front on every row – see Decreasing tips: 7-8-8-9-10-10 dtr’s 1 time, 2 dtr’s 1 time and 1 dtr 3 times = 20-21-21-21-21-22 dtr left on shoulder. When piece measures approx 37-39-41-43-45-47 – compare to back piece – cut the thread.

Right front piece: As left front piece but mirrored.

Sleeve: Loosely crochet 66-70-74-78-82-86 ch using crochet hook size 4 and Cotton Viscose or Safran.
Crochet the 1st row as follows: 1 dtr in the 5th ch from the hook, 1 dtr in next ch, *skip 1 ch, 1 dtr in each of the next 3 ch* repeat from *-* = 48-51-54-57-60-63 dtr. Crochet 1-1-2-3-3-4 rows of dtr as before, at the same time inc 1 dtr each side on every other row by crocheting 1 extra dtr in the second but last dtr each side = 50-53-58-63-66-71 dtr. On next row dec for sleeve cap each side on every row – see Decreasing tips: 4 dtr’s 1 time, 3 dtr’s 1 time, and then 2 dtr’s each side until piece measures approx 10-11-13-17-19-21 cm. Cut the thread.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Crochet sleeves to body using crochet hook size 4 and Cotton Viscose or Safran as follows: 1 dc in first st on sleeve, 2 ch, 1 dc in first st on back/front piece, 2 ch, 1 dc in dtr on sleeve, 2 ch, 1 dc in dtr on back/front piece etc. Crochet sleeve and side seams together in the same way.

Crochet border: Crochet a border round the opening of the bolero (i.e. up along both front pieces, round neck and along lower edge) using crochet hook size 6 and Vienna or Melody as follows: 1 dc in first st, *3 ch, skip approx 2.5 cm, 1 dc in next st*, repeat from *-* and finish with 3 ch and 1 sl st in first dc from beginning of round. NB! The border should be nice and even and not wavy.
Close the jacket with a brooch of button.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 03.04.2017
MANCHES:...Faire 1-1-2-3-3-4 rangs de DB avant, en augmentant en même temps 1 DB de chaque côté tous les 2 rangs en faisant 2 DB dans l’avant dernière DB de chaque côté = 50-53-58-63-66-71 DB.

Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 95-36) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (46)

Ann-Louise 03.09.2017 - 10:09:

Hej! Detta gäller alla era mönster. Jag undrar hur man ska veta vilken storlek man behöver då jag inte har hittat några mått i cm utan bara storleksangivelse i S, M, L osv?

DROPS Design 04.09.2017 kl. 11:47:

Hei Ann-Louise. Du finner en målskisse med alle mål nederst på oppskriften. God Fornøyelse!

Dorien 01.09.2017 - 13:12:

Zou er een foutje in het patroon kunnen staan? Bij het voorpand staat: En meerder bij een hoogte van ca 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm – vergelijk met het rugpand – voor de armsgaten zoals beschreven voor het rugpand. Moet dat niet zijn: minder?

DROPS Design 04.09.2017 kl. 16:57:

Hallo Dorien, Bij het voorpand moet je ook meerderen voor de afgeronde panden. Verder meerder je tegelijkertijd zoals op het achterpand voor de zijnaden. Dit staat verderop in de beschrijving van het voorpand ook aangegeven: Meerder tegelijkertijd aan de zijkanten zoals voor het rugpand.

Fiona 01.04.2017 - 13:38:

I love this pattern and I'm making it to wear at my son's wedding. I am crocheting the sleeves (size XL), and after doing the first row the instructions say to crochet 3 rows and at same time Inc 1dtr each side on every other row, resulting in 6 extra stitches in total. It doesn't​ seem to add up unless I am misunderstanding. To get the six extra stitches I need to either inc at each end of every row, or else Inc every other row for six rows. Which should I do? Thanks for your help!

DROPS Design 03.04.2017 kl. 09:20:

Dear Fiona, you work 3 rows with dtr at the same time inc 1 dtr on each side (= 2 sts inc), and work these a total of 3 times every other row = 6 sts inc = 66 dtr. Happy crocheting!

Gillian Ann Kitchen 10.03.2017 - 19:40:

Thank you so much it a joy to see pattern in larger sizes.. I just love all you pattern. Again thank you, just because I am big still live to make thing and you sure have the choice of many, Gillian

Karen 06.03.2016 - 18:12:

Vivaldi en Vienna zijn niet meer beschikbaar. Kan ik daarvoor in de plaats Kid Silk gebruiken? Of Melody?

DROPS Design 07.03.2016 kl. 16:54:

Hoi Karen. Je kan Vienna vervangen door Melody en Vivaldi door 2 draden Kid-Silk. Veel plezier mee!

Marcelle Milochau 22.08.2015 - 01:07:

Je ne comprends pas comment monter les manches sur le bolero...je crois qu'il y a trop de mailles après les diminusions pour que la manche puisse etre monter correctement sur le bolero. Merci de bien vouloir me donner une explication plus facile...Marcelle

DROPS Design 24.08.2015 kl. 10:26:

Bonjour Mme Milochau, placez la manche le long de l'emmanchure et épinglez si nécessaire pour bien tenir la manche en place, il sera plus facile ainsi de coudre l'arrondi de la manche au dos et au devant. Bon crochet!

Camilla 12.02.2015 - 22:22:

Hej jag förstår inte hur ärmen ska monteras? Jag började enl beskrivning från ärmhålet och virkade sedan luftmaskor, fäste i dubbelstolparna men när jag kommit fram till det andra ärmhålet så är det en bit kvar av ärmen. Ska man verkligen inte göra flera fasta maskor i respektive dubbelstolpe i ärmhålet för att det ska passa? När jag passar in ärmen mot ärmhålet ser det ut som det passar ihop men som sagt när jag virkar enl beskrivning går det inte ihop. Tacksam för hjälp!

DROPS Design 10.08.2015 kl. 14:49:

Hej Camilla, då får du justera, så det blir jämnt fördelat. Du kan börja mitt på och sy ner på varje sida. Lycka till!

Camilla Friberg 05.02.2015 - 08:49:

Jag undrar hur ärmen ska passa i ärm hålan, när jag lagt upp maskor för ärmen och virkat några varv ser den väldigt liten ut. Måtten på bak resp framstycke stämmer med diagrammen men ärmar blir ca 7 cm för liten. har jag fattat fel kanske blir det en justering när de monteras. Jag virkar strl S och har lagt upp 70 maskor till ärmen.

DROPS Design 05.02.2015 kl. 13:55:

Hej Camilla, jo men du syr i hela ärmkullen från där det är bredast med alla minskningar och sedan m som är kvar. Lycka till!

Nini 14.08.2014 - 13:22:

D'accord donc la bordure proposée "gomme" les dessalages, je ne me suis pas trompée alors... pour info, si ça peut servir à d'autre, j'ai fait la bordure comme proposée à peu prés, dans le même fil que le boléro, dans les espaces créés par les mailles en l'air j'ai mis 6 brides, une m.serrée sur celle du dessous, et on a une bordure volantée qui marche bien aussi.

Nini 09.08.2014 - 22:34:

Bonsoir, je viens de finir le premier pan de devant et je me demandais s'il étais normal que les diminution sois si... visible... Sur le modèle porté en photo le bas du devant est très arrondis alors que sur le miens on vois nettement "l'escalier" des diminutions. De plus j'avais pensais faire une bordure différente de celle proposée, avec le même fil que le reste de l'ouvrage, et j'ai peur que cela ne sois pas très jolie du coup. Merci

DROPS Design 12.08.2014 kl. 11:27:

Bonjour Nini, sur le modèle en photo, la bordure Vienna finit le modèle, vous pouvez vérifier avec votre bordure si le résultat vous convient ainsi. Bon crochet!

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