DROPS / 95 / 25

Oregano by DROPS Design

DROPS Fitted top with pattern in Muskat

Size: XS - S – M – L – XL - XXL

Materials: DROPS Muskat from Garnstudio
250-300-300-350-350-400 g colour no. 45, olive

Drops pointed needle size 4.5mm.
Drops 40cm circular needle size 4mm (for neck)

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 1.60 £ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 1.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension 22 sts x 27 rows on needle size 4.5 in pattern = 10 x 10 cm

Garter sts: Knit all rows.

Pattern: See diagram M.1. The diagram shows the pattern from the right side.

Knitting tips: The st becomes “twisted” by knitting into back of st instead of the front.

Decreasing tips (applies to armhole): Decrease within 4 garter sts from the right side. Dec as follows after 4 garter sts: slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso. Dec as follows before 4 garter sts: K2 tog.

Front piece: Cast on 75-84-93-105-114-129 sts (inclusive of 1 edge st each side, edge sts are knitted in garter st throughout) on needle size 4.5 with Muskat. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Continue in M.1 with 1 edge st each side. When piece measures 8-8-8-10-10-10 cm inc 1 st each side within the edge st on every 5 cm a total of 5 times = 85-94-103-115-124-139 sts – incorporate the new sts in pattern as you go along. When piece measures 32-33-34-35-36-37 cm knit 2 rows garter sts over the outermost 8-9-10-12-13-16 sts each side (knit remaining sts as before). Now cast off the outermost 4-5-6-8-9-12 sts each side for armhole and dec for armhole each side on every other row – see Decreasing tips – a total of 5-8-10-12-13-17 times = 67-68-71-75-80-82 sts. Continue in pattern as before with 4 sts in garter each side until finished measurements. At the same time when piece measures 40-42-43-44-45-46 cm put the middle 19-20-23-25-26-27 sts on thread for neck. Dec on neckline on every other row 2 sts 4 times and then on every 4th row 1 st 4 times = 12-12-12-13-15-15 sts left on each shoulder. When piece measures 47-49-51-53-55-57 cm cast off the outermost 6-6-6-7-8-8 sts on each shoulder, knit 1 row over remaining sts and cast off on next row, piece measures approx 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm.

Back piece: Cast on and knit as front piece. Cast off for armhole as described for front piece. When piece measures 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm cast off the middle 39-40-43-45-46-47 sts for neck and dec 1 st on each neck line 2 times. At the same time when piece measures 47-49-51-53-55-57 cm dec for shoulder as described for front piece, piece measures approx 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Neck: Pick up approx 96 to 122 sts round the neckline (incl sts from thread at front piece) using 40cm circular needle size 4 with Muskat. Purl 1 round, knit 1 round and cast off on next round in purled sts. Sew side seam within 1 edge st.


= K into back of loop from RS, P into back of loop from WS
= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 95-25) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (30)

Bente Kristensen 26.11.2019 - 16:08:

Skråstregerne i diagrammet vender én vej og i diagram forklaring en anden vej. Har det nogen betydning, da jeg ikke syntes at min strikning ligner billedet?

DROPS Design 27.11.2019 kl. 09:17:

Hei Bente! Så lenge mønsteret strikkes med vridde masker på rettsiden og på vrangsiden skal mønsteret stemme, husk at vridde masker alltid strikkes i den bakerste buen av masken. Vi har flere videoer som viser hvordan man strikker vridde vrange og vridde rette masker.

Merete Elisabet Mejlvang 17.06.2019 - 18:46:

Der skal stå excl kantmasker og ikke incl, regnestykket går ikke op😉

Fabiana 22.03.2019 - 17:06:

Mi correggo, taglia xs...

Fabiana 22.03.2019 - 16:59:

Buongiorno, vorrei eseguire il modello in taglia s su 75 maglie: come devo fare per ripetere il motivo su un numero di maglie non divisibile per i punti previsti dal motivo stesso, cioè 12? Cosa si intende con inserire le maglie aumentate nel motivo? Grazie

DROPS Design 22.03.2019 kl. 17:45:

Buonasera Fabiana, il motivo in realtà è su 3 maglie, nel diagramma viene mostrato su 12: su 75 maglie lavora 2 maglie di vivagno laterali e 73 maglie per il motivo. Quando aumenta deve incorporare le maglie aumentate nella lavorazione del motivo. Buon lavoro!

Sharon 20.06.2017 - 18:29:

That did not answer my question. I know to cast on more stitches than the gauge calls for, but I need to know is it cast on "gauge" 22 stitches and do 27 rows? I can't check the gauge if I don't know the answer. Or, does it mean cast on 22 x 27 stitches = 594 stitches.

DROPS Design 21.06.2017 kl. 17:17:

Dear Sharon, sorry I misread the typo under pattern (edited now), you should have 22 sts x 27 rows in pattern = 10 x 10 cm. Happy knitting!

Sharon Ford 20.06.2017 - 05:09:

Finally starting Drops 95-25. Gauge says 22 sts x 27 sts. Does it mean 22 stitches x 27 rows? M.1 shows 12 stitches and 24 rows. Is that what I should do for the gauge?

DROPS Design 20.06.2017 kl. 08:35:

Dear Mrs Ford, always cast on more sts than the stated knitting tension so that swatch is approx; 15x15 cm and repeat M1 over the number of sts you cast on: work the 12 sts in M1 then repeat from 1st st. Read more about swatch & gauge here. Happy knitting!

Sharon 04.06.2017 - 17:07:

I know you said to go by the schematic, but according to that the 42" bust is a small, while the "Finished Measurement Bust" says a Large is a 40" If I follow the schematic, then the small, which the Finished bust size says is a 33, will be too small. I really don't want to knit the whole thing only to find it doesn't fit. Can you explain why the big difference?

DROPS Design 05.06.2017 kl. 11:14:

Dear Sharon, at very beginning the essential thing is to check your tension/gauge. It`s good to check your tension/gauge several times while you are knitting to. Please see HERE. Happy knitting!

Sharon Ford 03.06.2017 - 05:49:

If I have a 40" chest, the size on the first page would indicate the 4th size, but the schematic would indicate the 2nd size. what size should I go by?

DROPS Design 03.06.2017 kl. 09:20:

Dear Sharon, how to choose the right size, please follow the instructions from the lesson HERE. Happy knitting!

Tina 11.07.2015 - 16:34:

Opslagningsmasker minus kantmasker går ikke op med antal masker i diagrammet, er det med vilje?? Jeg skal strikke str M. Der er 93 masker, dvs 91 til mønster, hvor diagrammet er 12 masker bredt....

DROPS Design 30.07.2015 kl. 13:25:

Hej Tina. Ja, du gentaer M.1 7 hele gange og derefter 7 masker af M.1.

Ebel 23.07.2014 - 22:08:

Hallo! Ich habe eine Frage zum Halsausschnitt: Beim Vorderteil sollen die Maschen auf eine Hilfsnadel genommen werden, beim Rückenteil aber abgekettet werden. Warum? Würde es viel ausmachen, wenn ich die Maschen des Rückenteils auch auf eine Hilfsnadel mache? Vielen Dank für Ihre Antwort!

DROPS Design 24.07.2014 kl. 10:11:

Man macht das, damit beim Vorderteil der Übergang zur Halsblende unsichtbar wird, das ist beim Vorderteil ja besonders wichtig. Sie können das beim Rückenteil genauso arbeiten, wenn Sie möchten. Der Rand wird allerdings etwas fester/stabiler, wenn Sie zuerst die M abketten und dann die M für die Halsblende neu auffassen.

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