DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 13.00 RON /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.00RON.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24
DROPS 86-3 / This pattern still doesn't have a name. Suggest one!
Measurements:
Length: approx. 21 cm [8.25"]
Circumference: approx. 21 cm [8.25"]

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
50 gr colour no 0100, natural

DROPS 3 mm [US 2] double-pointed needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

Tension: 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm [4”x 4”].

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 13.00 RON /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.00RON.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

Pattern: See diagram (pattern 1 and 2) below. The pattern is seen from the right side.

Wristwarmer: Cast on 60 sts evenly distributed on double-pointed needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 4 rows garter st.
Establish pattern on the next row as follows: K 5, sl 1, K 2 tog, psso, *K 9, sl 1, K 2 tog, psso*, repeat *-* 3 more times and finish with K 4. You have decreased 10 sts = 50 sts.
K 1 row, then knit Pattern 1.
When the piece measures 20 cm – adjust to end after 1 entire repeat – knit Pattern 2 and then cast off all sts.
The piece measures approx. 21 cm.
Knit a second wristwarmer.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 12.11.2021
Establish pattern on the next row as follows: K 5, sl 1, K 2 tog, psso, *K 9, sl 1, K 2 tog, psso*, repeat *-* 3 more times and finish with K 4. You have decreased 10 sts = 50 sts.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = K from WS
symbols = 1 yo
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (35)

country flag Magnhild Grimastad wrote:

Hei Holder på og prøve meg på disse. Jeg har 50 masker på pinnen etter felling i starten. Gikk ut fra at det skulle jg ha til arbeidet var ferdig. Men nå blir det en maske mindre for hver omgang m mønster. Hva gjør jg feil?

30.05.2024 - 09:38

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Magnhild. Har du husket alle kastene? På 1. omgang strikkes det over 50 masker slik: 1 rett, 1 kast, 3 rett, ta 1 m løs av som om den skulle strikkes r, 2 r sm, løft den løse m over (=1 maske), 3 rett og 1 kast. Dette gjentas 4 ganger til. mvh DROPS Design

03.06.2024 - 09:46

country flag Sabine wrote:

Können Sie bitte folgenden Satz korrigieren: „ Wenn die Arbeit eine Gesamtlänge von 20 cm hat - daran angepasst, dass 1 ganzer Rapport anpassen gestrickt wurde.“ Es muss heißen: „... daran angepasst, dass 1 ganzer Rapport gestrickt wurde.“, das Wort „anpassen“ ist zuviel und verwirrt ungeübte Strickerinnen. . Die englische Version ist richtig. Ich finde in einer „komplett neu formulierten“ Anleitung, die so kurz ist, sollten solche Fehler nicht passieren.

01.05.2022 - 16:58

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sabine, vielen Dank für Ihre Rückmeldung. Auch wenn wir uns um Sorgfalt bemühen, kann sich der Fehlerteufel leider immer mal wieder einschleichen, selbst wenn die Anleitung kurz ist. Wir freuen uns dann, wenn sich aufmerksame Menschen wie Sie die Zeit nehmen, uns auf Fehler und/oder verwirrende Formulierungen hinzuweisen. Die Anleitung wurde nun korrigiert. Viel Spaß beim Weiterstricken und beim Tragen Ihrer neuen Pulswärmer!

02.05.2022 - 10:57

country flag Pamela Große Heitmeyer wrote:

Hallo, Ist das denn richtig das sich das Muster nach rechts dreht woe eine Spirale am Anfang? Das sieht so aus als wenn sich das Muster in einer spirale hoch schlängelt obwohl ich es genau so stricke wie auf dem Rapport angegeben von rechts nach links lese ich es ich möchte gerne meinen Fehler finden bei jeden klappt es nur bei mir nicht liebe Grüße

12.04.2022 - 08:30

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Pamela, vielleicht probieren Sie Folgendes: Statt direkt den Pulswärmer in Runden zu stricken, stricken Sie als Probestück einen einzigen Muster-Rapport hin und zurück, um ein Gefühl für das Muster zu bekommen. Sie sollten am Anfang und am Ende ein paar Maschen kraus rechts stricken (d.h. Sie können z.B. 20 M anschlagen und wie folgt stricken: 5 M kraus rechts, 1 Markierungsfaden setzen, 1 Muster-Rapport (= 10 M) stricken, 1 Markierungsfaden setzen, 5 M kraus rechts). Vielleicht entdecken Sie auf diese Weise, warum sich Ihr Muster spiralförmig dreht. Beachten Sie, dass Sie dann die Rück-Reihen von links nach rechts lesen.

13.04.2022 - 11:23

country flag France wrote:

La grille est fait pour 60 mailles au lieu de 50

11.04.2022 - 22:29

country flag France wrote:

Après les diminutions, il me reste 51 mailles au lieu de 50. Est ce normal? Merci à l’avance

11.04.2022 - 22:17

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour France. La répétition du diagramme est de 10 m. Le diagramme se tricote sur les 50 m.

15.04.2022 - 19:31

country flag Pamela Große Heitmeyer wrote:

Hallo nochmal, Wenn ich das Muster stricke Dreht sich das ist das normal? und sieht auch gar nicht so aus wie auf dem foto ich habe da irgendwie ziemliche probleme mit. Ich fange an mit : 1 re ,1umschlag 3re, dann eine woe zum re stricken abheben 2 zus. Und die gehobene drüber ziehen ,3re, 1umschlag,1re 1umschlag 3re und immer so weiter ist da vllt schon ein Fehler drin ? Liebe Grüße

11.04.2022 - 08:49

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Pamela, so wie Sie das Muster beschreiben, ist es korrekt und "auf die Ferne" ist kein Fehler erkennbar. Vielleicht versuchen Sie, sich jeden einzelnen Rapport mit einem Faden zu markieren (also immer nach jedem 2. Umschlag, bezogen auf die 1. Muster-Reihe), sodass Sie genau sehen, wo ein Muster-Rapport beginnt und aufhört.

13.04.2022 - 11:11

country flag Pamela wrote:

Super vielen Dank für die Antwort nur komme ich mit noch etwas nicht zurecht und zwar nach den 10 Maschen im Rapport pro mustersatz ende ich dann immer mit einem Umschlag? Sonst habe ich entweder immer Maschen zu wenig oder zu viel auf den Nadeln ? Also 10 M stricken und dann geht es auf der anderen nadel mit einem Umschlag weiter? Liebe Grüße

07.04.2022 - 18:31

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Pamela, ja genau, 1 Muster wird über 10 Maschen gestrickt, und nach der 1. + 9. Reihe enden Sie mit 1 Umschlag, dh 1. Reihe =*1 re, 1 Umschlag, 3 re, 1 M. re. abheben, 2 re. zusammen, die abgehobene über die gestrickte ziehen, 3 re, 1 Umschlag* = 10 M. von *bis* insgesamt 5 Mal stricken = 50 Maschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

08.04.2022 - 08:34

country flag Pamela Große Heitmeyer wrote:

Hallo liebes drops Team, ich habe eine Frage in dem Diagramm sind ja 30 M abgebildet laut muster ich habe aber 50 M auf der Nadel wie stricke ich das denn nun ? Da komme ich irgendwie nicht weiter liebe Grüße Pamela

07.04.2022 - 10:22

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Pamela, nach den 30 Maschen im Diagram stricken Sie dann die ersten 20 Maschen im Diagram, so haben Sie insgesamt 5 Muster mit einem Lochmuser im Dreieck und 50 Maschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

07.04.2022 - 12:21

country flag Romi Ender wrote:

Wie verteile ich am günstigsten die 50 Maschen auf die 4 Nadeln ?

20.02.2022 - 19:22

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Ender, Sie können die Maschen so verteilen, daß jeweils 1 Lochmuster (= 10 Maschen) in der Breite ist, dh z.B. Ndl 1 = 10 M, Ndl 2 = 10 M, Ndl 3 = 10 M, Ndl 4 = 20 M oder auf 3 Nadeln: Ndl 1 = 20 M, Ndl 2 = 10 M, Ndl 3 = 20 M. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

21.02.2022 - 10:04

country flag Mary Anne Crookes wrote:

Thank you for your timely response. I was not clear in my question. After i have decreased to the 50 stitches i look and the pattern and it is only 30... i don't understand how it all lines up if you have 50 stitches and the pattern only shows 30... if it knit yarn over knit 3 and the slip think two together and psso do you do that 10 times?

12.11.2021 - 17:41

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mary Anne, as you may notice, M.1 has 3 repeats of a motif of 10 stitches. Since you have 50 stitches, you'd need to work 5 repeats in total of the 10 stitch motif (that is, work the 30 stitches of M.1 and repeat the first 20 stitches of M.1). Happy knitting!

14.11.2021 - 20:19