DROPS / 93 / 22

DROPS 93-22 by DROPS Design

DROPS Crochet cap in Eskimo and scarf in Puddel

Cap:
Size: One size

Materials: DROPS Eskimo from Garnstudio
150 g colour no 14, Charcoal grey

DROPS crochet hook no. 8 mm

Scarf:
Size: Approx 15 x 80 cm

Materials: DROPS Puddel from Garnstudio
100 g colour no. 08 coal

Drops pointed needles size 7 mm

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
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DROPS Eskimo uni colour DROPS Eskimo uni colour 1.90 £ /50g
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DROPS Eskimo mix DROPS Eskimo mix 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Eskimo print DROPS Eskimo print 2.40 £ /50g
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DROPS Puddel DROPS Puddel
94% Mohair, 6% Polyester
Discontinued
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Cap:
Crochet Gauge: 8 htr on hook size 8 mm = 10 cm in width.
Note: Because of different crochet techniques used by the individual, the gauge may vary, so you might have to drop a size up or down in hook size to obtain the correct gauge.

Crochet info: Replace the 1st htr on each round with 2 ch. Finish each round with a sl st in the 2nd ch from beg of round.

How to bind off crochet st:
Crochet together 2 st to 1 st. Crochet 1 htr, but wait with the last “pull through” leaving 3 loops on your hook. Crochet another htr, but on the last “pull through” - pull the yarn through all 6 loops = 1 st bound off.

CAP
Crochet 4 ch on hook size 8, in Eskimo and form a ring with a sl st.
1st row; Crochet 8 htr in loop - see crochet info above.
2nd row; Crochet 2 htr in each st. From now on only pull the hook through the back part of st – to get the special texture =16 htr
3rd row; *1htr in the first st, 2 htr in next st* repeat *-* = 24 htr
4th row; *1htr in the first 2 st, 2 htr in next st* repeat *-* = 32 htr
5th row; *1htr in first 3 st, 2 htr in next st* repeat *-* = 40 htr
6th row; *1htr in first 4 st, 2 htr in next st* repeat *-* = 48 htr
7th. row; *1htr in first 5 st, 2 htr in next st* repeat *-* = 56 htr
8th. row; *1htr in first 6 st, 2 htr in next st* repeat *-* = 64 htr
9 – 12th row; 1htr in every st = 64 htr
13th row; *Crochet 6 htr, crochet htr no 7 & 8 together (see explanation: How to bind off crochet st.)* repeat from *-* = 56 htr.
14th row; *Crochet 5 htr, crochet htr no 6 & 7 together* repeat from *-* = 48 htr.
15th row; *Crochet 4 htr, crochet htr no 5 & 6 together* repeat from *-* = 40 htr.
16-18th row;1dc in every st = 40 dc

The peak:
Continue to crochet the peak of the cap in 2 threads of Eskimo on the front 18 st.
1st. row; Crochet 1 htr in every st = 18 htr.
2–4th row; Turn, crochet 2 ch, crochet the next 2 htr. tog. (see explanation: How to bind off crochet st.) continue in htr, but crochet the last 2 htr together = 12 st.
5th row; Crochet a row of sl sts around the hat and the peak (1 sl st in each st)

Decoration stripes: Insert a marking thread either side of the cap in row 16. Crochet 1 sl st in a st near the marking thread, make the sl st 1–1.5 cm long, crochet another sl st in row 15, make the sl st 1–1.5 cm long, crochet a sl st in row 14 - and so on . Continue to the other marking thread. Make 2 more stripes.

SCARF:
Knitting Gauge: 10 sts x 14 rows on needles size 7mm in stocking sts. = 10 x 10 cm.

Scarf: Cast on 15 sts using 2 needles size 7 in Puddel (use both needles to make sure the edge will be stretchy). Remove one needle and knit l row from the wrong side. Continue in stocking sts until the scarf measures 79 cm. Knit 1 row from the wrong side and bind off.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 21.01.2010
The peak: 2–4th row; Turn, crochet 2 ch, crochet the next 2 htr. tog. (see explanation: How to bind off crochet st.) continue in htr, but crochet the last 2 htr together = 12 st.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 93-22) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (43)

Natalie 27.08.2018 - 14:24:

Ich möchte diese Mütze stricken !! und nachher filzen\r\nGibt es dazu eine Strickanleitung ??

Alexa 05.10.2016 - 22:59:

Thank you very much for the lovely free pattern!! I am very keen to crochet it only I would like to use 2 strands of Merino extra fine or Big Merino. Which do you think would be best used for an 8mm crochet? Thank you again for the pattern! Sincerely, Alexandra C

DROPS Design 06.10.2016 kl. 09:14:

Dear Alexandra, as an alternative to Eskimo (yarn group E) you should use 2 strands yarn group C, ie Big Merino - read more about alternatives here. Happy crocheting!

Annelies 24.10.2015 - 19:33:

Is er op uw website ook een lijst met afkortingen? Ik ben een beginnend haker en ik snap niets van al die afkortingen.... Mooie website trouwens.

Nats 30.01.2015 - 12:23:

Hello, I love this pattern! I'm a novice and was hoping somebody might be able to tell me what adjustments I would have to make to crochet the same hat but for a 6 year old? Please reply! much appreciated thank you :)

DROPS Design 30.01.2015 kl. 14:12:

Dear Nats, you are welcome to request help from your DROPS store or a crochet forum - or click here for all our hat patterns for kids. Happy crocheting!

Czirjek 20.12.2014 - 19:46:

Bonjour, En crochetant très lache et avec un crochet 10 (au lieu de 8), impossible d'arriver aux 10cm requis au 2eme tour (avec 8 demi-brides). A peine 6cm.. Faut-il donc crocheter en brides normales, voire en double-brides? Merci

DROPS Design 22.12.2014 kl. 15:48:

Bonjour Mme Czirjek, l'échantillon indiqué ici est en largeur, on doit avoir 8 demi-brides = 10 cm de large. Crochetez une chaînette d'une dizaine de ml et crochetez quelques rangs en allers et retours, en demi-brides, puis vérifiez bien votre nombre de mailles en largeur. Pour la hauteur, ajustez en essayant la casquette et ajoutez/retirez des tours si nécessaire. Bon crochet!

Pauline Sherrer 28.10.2014 - 18:29:

Decoration stripes: Insert a marking thread either side of the cap in row 16. Crochet 1 sl st in a st near the marking thread, make the sl st 1–1.5 cm long, crochet another sl st in row 15, make the sl st 1–1.5 cm long, crochet a sl st in row 14 - and so on . Continue to the other marking thread. Make 2 more stripes. Do not understand these instructions. Where is the first marking thread? The other marking thread? and so forth? Two more stripes?

DROPS Design 29.10.2014 kl. 09:33:

Dear Mrs Sherrer, you insert 2 marking threads either side of the cap and crochet 1 stripe from row 16 to top of hat on both markers. Make then 2 more stripes evenly placed between thise both stripes to get a total of 6 stripes (3 accross hat). Happy crocheting!

Rebecca Washington 22.10.2014 - 04:59:

I love this hat and crocheted it about two years ago. This year, I would like to make it to fit my head which is about 23" in diameter. What is the easiest way to enlarge this hat pattern?

DROPS Design 22.10.2014 kl. 10:06:

Dear Mrs Washington, you can adjust by decreasing less sts - try it on regularly to check width - remember to make it a bit tighter than your head so that the hat can fit your head without slipping. Happy crocheting!

Elfi 07.02.2014 - 20:10:

I followed the instructions exactly, but the bottom part of the hat looks different from the picture. In the picture it looks like it was also crotched with double strands and not hdc. Or am I missing something? Thanks in advance

DROPS Design 08.02.2014 kl. 10:01:

Dear Elfi, the whole hat is worked while crocheting only back loop on all rounds, until the end (the 3 sc rows included); Brim is then worked with double strands. Happy crocheting!

Marilynn Teague 06.01.2014 - 02:34:

I need a list of crochet terms. I am not finding where to print them. Thank you, Marilynn

DROPS Design 06.01.2014 kl. 09:47:

Dear Mrs Teague, you will find here all used crocheted terms in UK-Englis and US-English as well as other languages if required. Happy crocheting!

Petra 04.01.2014 - 15:40:

Hoi ik snap niet hoe ik die streep er in krijg die rondje lukt wel maar die streep die er door loopt die niet hoe krijg ik dat er in groetjes petra

DROPS Design 06.01.2014 kl. 12:43:

Hoi Petra. De strepen haak je als de pet klaar is. Lees onder "strepen" aan het eind van het patroon.

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