DROPS / 92 / 22

DROPS 92-22 by DROPS Design

DROPS Crochet cardigan in Eskimo.

Tags: jackets, square,
Size: S – M – L – XL - XXL

Materials: Eskimo
300-350-350-400-450 g colour no 32, Dark lilac mix
and use: Silke-tweed
100-100-100-150-150 g colour no 03, Burgundy
and use: Alpaca
100-100-100-100-150 g colour no 3800, Heather
and use: Vivaldi
50-100-100-100-100 g colour no 02, Brown
and use: Highlander
50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 14, Red mix

Drops Crochet Hook size 9 mm
Drops pointed needles size 7 mm
Drops wooden button, nr 538; 5 pcs.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 1.35 £ /50g
DROPS Eskimo uni colour DROPS Eskimo uni colour 1.35 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Eskimo mix DROPS Eskimo mix 1.55 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Eskimo print DROPS Eskimo print 1.70 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Silke-Tweed DROPS Silke-Tweed
52% Silk, 48% Wool
find alternatives

100% Alpaca
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Vivaldi DROPS Vivaldi
56% Mohair, 30% Polyamide, 14% Wool
find alternatives
DROPS Needles & Hooks

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Crochet Gauge: 7dc/dtr in the width and 2 textured rows in the length(1 row of DC + 1 row of dtr x 2) on hook size 9 = 10 x 10 cm.
NB: Because of different crochet techniques used by the individual, the gauge may vary, so you might have to drop a size up or down in hook size to obtain the correct gauge.

Knitting Gauge: 12 sts x 20 rows with 1 thread of Alpaca + 1 thread of Silke-tweed + 1 thread of Vivaldi on needles size 7 mm in stocking sts. = 10 x 10 cm.

Crochet info: Replace the 1st dc on each “dc row” with a ch, and the 1st dtr on each “dtr row” with 4 ch. Finish off every “dc row” with a dc in the 4th ch from beginning of the previous row and every “dtr row” with a dtr in the 1st ch from beginning of the previous row.

Textured pattern: *1 row of dc, 1 row of dtr* repeat from *-* until finished measurements – NB: Crochet into each dc and each dtr and not in between.

Bind off tips: At the beginning of row: Replace 1 dc/dtr with a sl st. At the end of row: Turn the piece when the number of dc/dtr’s to be bound off are left on row and crochet back again.

Lower edge on back and front pieces: Crochet squares and sew them together into a long piece = the lower edge on the front and back) Continue to crochet the front pieces and the back from one of the long sides of this piece.
1 square (=18 x 18 cm): Crochet 4 ch on hook size 9 with Eskimo and form a ring with a sl st
1st round: 4 ch (=1dtr), 2 dtr, *2 ch, 3 dtr * repeat from *-* a total of 3 times and finish with 2 ch and 1 sl st in the 4th ch from beginning of row.
2nd round: 5 ch (=1dtr + 1 ch), *3 dtr into the ch loop at the corner, 2 ch, 3 dtr into the same ch loop, 1 dc* repeat from *-* a total of 3 times and finish with 3 dtr into the loop in the corner, 2 ch, 2 dtr in the same loop and 1 sl st in the 4th ch from beginning of row.
3rd round: Crochet dc around the square as follows: 1 dc in each dtr, 3 dc into each ch loop and 4 dc into each bend in the corners.
Crochet a total of 5-5-6-6-7 squares. Sew them together into one long piece, make sure the seam is as invisible as possible.

Back and front piece: Read the crochet info above! Crochet on hook size 9 with Eskimo as follows: Crochet 59-65-70-78-86 dtr evenly distributed along one of the long sides of the square piece (for size M + XL crochet approx 1 dtr in each dc but for the other sizes skip the occasional dc evenly on row to get correct no of dtr). Insert a marking thread at each side 15-17-18-20-22 dtr’s into the piece = 28-31-34-38-42 dtr on back piece. Continue to crochet the Textured pattern – see explanation above. When piece measures 25 cm (incl square piece) inc. 1 dc/dtr at each side as follows: crochet 1 extra dc/dtr in the dc/dtr at both sides of the marking threads = 62-69-74-82-90 dc/dtr. When piece measures 37-38-39-40-41 cm bind off for armholes each side 4-6-8-13-16 dc/dtr (= 2-3-4-6-8 dc/dtr on both sides of marking threads) – see bind off tips above. Continue to crochet each piece separately.

Back piece: = 26-27-28-28-28 dc/dtr. Crochet as before until piece measures approx 56-58-60-62-64 cm, cut the thread. Insert a marking thread at each side 9 dc/dtr’s into the piece (marking the collar).

Left front: = 14-15-15-15-15 dc/dtr and continue to crochet as before until piece measures approx 46-48-50-52-54 cm. Bind off for collar as follows: Crochet 10 dc/dtr from the shoulder and in towards the middle, turn the piece. Bind off 1 dc/dtr on neck edge on next row – see bind off tips above = 9 dc/dtr left for shoulder. When piece measures the same as back piece cut the thread.

Right front: Crochet as left front but reverse.

Sleeve: The sleeve is knitted in stocking sts. Cast on 32-34-35-36-37 sts (inclusive of 1 seam st each side - all seam sts are knitted in garter sts) on needles size 7 with 1 thread of Alpaca + 1 thread of silke-tweed + 1 thread of Vivaldi (= 3 threads) Knit 2 rows of stocking sts. Continue in stocking sts, at the same time binding off 4 sts evenly on row = 28-30-31-32-33 sts. When sleeve measures 14 cm inc. 1 st each side every 4.5-4.5-3.5-3.5-3 cm a total of 9-9-10-10-11 times = 46-48-51-52-55 sts. When sleeve measures 53-52-50-48-47 cm insert a marking thread each side (marks where to sew in sleeve to body). When sleeve measures 56-56-56-57-58 cm bind off. Knit the other sleeve.

Assembly: Sew the shoulder seams. Crochet a row of dc around the armhole with hook size 9 and Eskimo. Sew the sleeve seams in the seam sts up till the marking thread. Sew in the sleeves. NB: Sew in the sleeves as follows: sew into back side of the dc row so it looks as if the dc row is at the top of the sleeves. The marking thread at each side of the sleeve should fit to the side of the front and back pieces.

Crochet edge: Crochet an edge of dc around the collar with hook size 9 and Eskimo – make sure not to crochet too many dc to avoid collar becoming too big. Crochet a finishing edge with highlander on hook size 9 as follows – start from the centre back, crochet around the collar at one side, continue down along the front, along the bottom edge, up along the other front, around the neck until you reach the centre back:
1 dc in the 1st st *2 ch, skip approx 4 cm, 1 dc in the next st*, repeat from *-* and finish off with 2 ch and 1 sl st in the 1st dc on round. Crochet the same edge at the edge of the sleeves.
Sew in the buttons evenly distributed on the left front – top button should be approx 1.5 – 2 cm from the top edge and lower button should be approx 18 cm from the bottom edge (at transition between the squares and the textured pattern). Use the crochet ch loops as button holes.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 92-22) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (3)

Stéphanie 09.12.2016 - 21:42:

Merci infiniment pour votre réponse si rapide et la correction. Je ne devrais plus avoir de problèmes maintenant. J'avais commencé par un carré pour voir comment ils étaient. Je n'avais jamais eu une si grande différence avec le modèle...

Stéphanie 08.12.2016 - 22:51:

Et voici ma deuxième question (que je ne pouvais pas mettre avec l'autre ... trop long!) 2. Au début des explications "dos et devant" il est écrit de "faire environ 1 DB dans chaque ms". Est-ce qu'on est sensés faire un rang de ms autour des carrés? Je ne vois pas d'où elles sortent... Merci beaucoup pour tous ces modèles que vous offrez et la super qualité de vos laines! Je me régale...

DROPS Design 09.12.2016 kl. 09:26:

Bonjour Stéphanie, effectivement, il manquait le rang 3 au carré = des ms tout autour du carré comme expliqué, la correction a été faite, merci. Bon crochet!

Stéphanie 08.12.2016 - 22:47:

Bonjour, j'ai deux questions concernant ce modèle: 1. Avec mon plus grand crochet (No 10) et en travaillant vraiment très très lâche, je ne parviens pas à faire des carrés de plus de 15 cm de côté. Devrais-je acheter un crochet No 12 ou plus ou puis-je suivre les explications de la taille XXL et obtenir l'équivalent de la taille L?

DROPS Design 09.12.2016 kl. 09:20:

Bonjour Stéphanie, avez vous le bon échantillon, soit 7ms/7DB (= double brides) x 2 rangs en point fantaisie = 10 x 10 cm en Eskimo? C'est une tension très habituelle pour Eskimo. Bon crochet!

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