DROPS Children / 6 / 12

White Butterfly by DROPS Design

DROPS Children’s knitted jumper in Muskat Soft with Butterfly in Texture.

DROPS design: Pattern no R-008-bn

Sizes: 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 (9/10 - 11/12) years.

Materials: DROPS Muskat Soft from Garnstudio

350-350-400 (400-450) g colour no 18, white

DROPS Circular needle and Double pointed needles sizes 3.5 and 4 mm.
DROPS Crochet hook size 3 mm.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Cotton
from 1.60 £ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 1.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: 20 stitches x 26 rows with needle size 4 mm and stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

Bobble: Work 3 stitches in 1 stitch, work 3 rows stocking stitch back and forth over these 3 stitches. On row 4 work the 3 stitches together to 1 stitch.

Body: Cast on 156-168-180 (192-204) stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm and white and work M.1 (= approx. 10 cm). Change to circular needle size 4 mm, work stocking stitch and increase 1-1-1 (1-1) stitch on round 1 = 157-169-181 (193-205) stitches. Remember the knitting tension. Insert a marker thread in each side: 79-85-91 (97-103) stitches on front piece and 78-84-90 (96-102) stitches on back piece. When piece measures 22-24-26 (28-29) cm, work M.2 over the middle 39 stitches on front piece (do not work M.2 on back piece). At the same time, when piece measures 31-34-37 (39-40) cm work the next row as follows: Cast off 1 stitch for armhole, 77-83-89 (95-101) stitches front piece, cast off 2 stitches for armhole, 76-82-88 (94-100) stitches back piece, cast off 1 stitch for armhole. The front and back pieces are now finished separately (make sure you work the cables in M.2 from the right side).

Front piece: = 77-83-89 (95-101) stitches. Continue to decrease for armholes in each side every 2nd row: 2 stitches x 1-1-1 (2-2), 1 stitch x 2 = 69-75-81 (83-89) stitches. After M.2 continue with stocking stitch. When piece measures 45-49-54 (57-59) cm, cast off the middle 29-29-31 (31-33) stitches for neck, at the same time as you work M.3 on each side of the neck (make sure the patterns match on each side). Then decrease towards neck every 2nd row: 2 stitches x 1, 1 stitch x 2. Cast off when piece measures 50-54-59 (62-64) cm.

Back piece: = 76-82-88 (94-100) stitches. Decrease for armholes as for front piece. When piece measures 45-49-54 (57-59) cm, work M.3. At the same time, when piece measures 48-52-57 (60-62) cm cast off the middle 34-34-36 (36-38) stitches for neck. Then decrease 1 stitch in each side on the next row towards neck. Cast off when piece measures 50-54-59 (62-64) cm.

Sleeve: Cast on 36-36-36 (36-48) stitches with double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and white and work M.1 (= approx. 10 cm). Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm, work M.3 (make sure you work a repeat mid top of sleeve) and increase 4-4-8 (12-0) stitches evenly on round 1 = 40-40-44 (48-48) stitches. At the same time, after M.1 increase mid under sleeve: 2 stitches x 18-20-22 (22-24) in Size 3/4: Alternately every and every 2nd round, Sizes 5/6+7/8: Every 2nd round and Sizes 9/10+11/12: alternately every 2nd and 3rd round = 76-80-88 (92-96) stitches (the increased stitches are worked into the pattern as you go). When piece measures 23-27-30 (34-38) cm, cast off 6 stitches mid under sleeve and finish working back and forth on needle. Then cast off in each side every 2nd row: 4 stitches x 4, cast off. Piece measures approx. 27-31-34 (38-42) cm.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Knit up approx. 80-96 stitches around neck with double pointed needles size 4 mm and white and work 1 round stocking stitch at the same time as you work 3 bobbles on each shoulder as follows: 1 bobble mid top of shoulder and 6 stitches stocking stitch on each side to next bobble (1 towards front piece and 1 towards back piece). Then purl 1 round, cast off in knit. Crochet 1 row with hook size 3 mm as follows: * 3 double crochets, 3 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch *. Repeat from *-*. Sew in sleeves.


= bobble - see pattern
= knit
= purl
= yarn over
= increase 1 st
= K 2 tog, yarn over
= K 2 tog
= yarn over, slip 1, knit 1, psso
= 3 sts on a cable needle in front of the work, knit 3 sts, knit 3 sts from the cable needle
= 1 st on a cable needle in front of the work, knit 1 st, knit 1 st from the cable needle
= 1 st on a cable needle behind the work, knit 1 st, knit 1 st from the cable needle
= slip 1, K 2 tog, psso

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 6-12) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (30)

Hélène 20.10.2019 - 20:46:

Si je reprend la question de Sandrine sur le diagramme on travaille sur 6 mailles (a cause de l’augmentation au rang précédent) mais sur l’explication du 9e symbole on travaille avec 5 mailles. Alors on doit faire comment

DROPS Design 21.10.2019 kl. 12:03:

Bonjour Hélène, une correction va bientôt être faite sur cette torsade, on doit mettre 3 m devant, tricoter 3 m end, et reprendre les 3 m en attente et les tricoter à l'endroit. Bon tricot!

Nicole Champagne 19.10.2019 - 03:31:

Je ne comprend pas la maille ajouté au centre du diagramme car par la suite on a toujours 39 mailles mais si on ajoute une maille on est rendu a 40 ????

Hanny 28.07.2019 - 11:38:

Zijn de heen en teruggaa nee naalden aangegeven in het telpatroon dus totaal 25 nld

DROPS Design 10.08.2019 kl. 16:47:

Dag Hanny,

Ja, dat klopt! Zowel de heengaande als de teruggaande naalden zijn aangegeven in het patroon.

Elke 21.05.2019 - 11:11:

Hallo, vielen Dank für die Antwort, aber jetzt weiß ich immer noch nicht die Einteilung. Bin das gewohnt, dass z.B. angegeben wird: RM, 1 Mustersatz M1, danach 5 Mustersätze M3, 1 Mustersatz M1, RM

DROPS Design 21.05.2019 kl. 13:20:

Liebe Elke, M.1 wird beim Vorder- und Rückenteil "allein" in der Runde gestrickt, dh die 12 Maschen in M.1 in der Runde wiederholen gleichzeitig wird 1 Masche bei der 1. Runde nur zugenommen: 13-14-15 (16-17) x M.1 in der Breite, die Runde enden Sie mit der 1. Masche in M.1. Wenn Sie beim Vorder- & Rückenteil M.3 stricken, wiederholen Sie das Diagram in der Breite über alle Maschen, mit 1 Randmasche beidseitig. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Elke 21.05.2019 - 09:07:

In dem Text steht keine Mustereinteilung. Muster M2 wird beschrieben, aber was ist mit M1 und M3? Wie sind diese anzuordnen?

DROPS Design 21.05.2019 kl. 10:05:

Liebe Elke, M.1 wird z.B. am Anfang Vorder- und Rückenteil gestrickt - und M.3 wird dann beim Vorderteil und Rückenteil gestrickt, wenn Sie separat gestrickt werden und bei den Ärmeln. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Lea 11.12.2018 - 06:03:

Ich verstehe das nicht *Vorder- und Rückenteil nun separat fertig stricken* muss ich die Rückenteilmaschen stillegen und das vorderteil in Hin und Rückreihen weiter stricken?\r\nÄrmel: Wie nimmt man in einem Strickstück maschen auf? Aus eine M 2 rausstricken? (5/6+7/8) aus der 5.M die 6. Rausstricken und aus der 7. Die 8.? Gibt es dazu videos? Zum thema maschen aufnehmen und Vorder und Rückenteil seperat fertig Stricken. Aus welchem jahr ist die Anleitung\r\nDanke für die Hilfe.

DROPS Design 11.12.2018 kl. 09:49:

Liebe Lea, Sie stricken zuerst das Rumpfteil in der Runde, dann legen Sie die Hälfte der Maschen still (Rückenteil), stricken das Vorderteil und dann das Rückenteil. Dieses Video zeigt wie man 1 M zunimmt, in der Runde nehmen Sie 1 Masche in der letzte M der Runde zu (Ende der Runde, vor der Markierung) und 1 Masche in der 1. M der Runde (Anfang der Runde, nach der Markierung). Sie können aber irgendeine andere Technik benutzen, die Zunahmen sollen aber in der Mitte unter der Ärmel entstehen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Winnie Andersen 02.02.2018 - 12:54:

Ville meget gerne strikke denne, men kan simpelthen ikke forstå diagrammet. Det ser ud som om der mangler beskrivelse af nogle af symnbolerne, som er meget uldne og svære at se, specielt i sommerfugl diagrammet.

Gitte 21.07.2017 - 17:55:

Kan der være en fejl i m2, ved snogningenrne. Forstår ikke ikke helt hvordan snogningenrne lave

DROPS Design 09.08.2017 kl. 10:00:

Hei Gitte. Ja, her var det en feil ved fletten (M.2). Det skal være = 2 m på hj.p foran arb, 3 r, 2 r fra hj.p. Takk for at du gjorde oss oppmerksom på dette, feilen vil bli rettet så fort som mulig. God fornøyelse videre på genseren.

Sijke Van Vliet 09.12.2016 - 20:39:

Worden bij de hoogtes die aangegeven worden het boord meegerekend, of vanaf het boord? Bv ik moet op 22 cm beginnen met het patroon. Is dat op 22cm totaal, of vanaf het boord ?

DROPS Design 12.12.2016 kl. 15:22:

Hoi Sijke. Het is de totale hoogte inclusief het boord. Zo meten wij standaard - tenzij anders wordt aangegeven in het patroon

Ann-Christine Svensson 11.03.2016 - 11:29:

Tror det är fel på mönster 1, visst ska 2 m stickas tillsammans? sista raden på Diagram explanations( lyft 1 m 2 rm ,drag den lyftade över). På M2 är den fyllda rutan avigmaskor?

DROPS Design 11.03.2016 kl. 12:08:

Hej Ann-Christine, M.1 nästsista raden är en bubbla - se förkl i mönstret. Lycka till!

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