DROPS Silke-Tweed
DROPS Silke-Tweed
52% Silk, 48% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 1.90 £ /50g
DROPS SS24

DROPS 43-2

DROPS jacket in Silke-tweed with tweed border Sweater in Alaska or Silke-tweed with texture

DROPS 43-2 / Suggest a name
Size: Small/medium (Medium/large)

Materials: DROPS Silke-tweed from Garnstudio

150 (150) g colour no 02, brown
100 (100) g colour no 10, grey
100 (100) g colour no 09, dark beige
50 (100) g colour no 01, off white
50 (50) g colour no 08, light beige
50 (50) g colour no 05, blue

DROPS Circular needle and double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and 3.5 mm.

DROPS Coconut buttons: 6 pcs (Button no 515)

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Silke-Tweed
DROPS Silke-Tweed
52% Silk, 48% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 1.90 £ /50g

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
JACKET CONTINUED:

Knitting tension: 23 sts x 30 rows on needle size 3.5 mm and pattern = 10 x 10 cm Remember needle sizes are guidelines only!

Pattern: See diagram (1 diagram = 1 pattern repeat) Diagrams are seen from RS.

Knit entire pattern in stocking sts.

Edge: Knit 3 cm stocking sts, next row as follows: * K2 tog, YO (= folding edge – measure piece from here) *, 3 cm stocking sts.

Body: Knit jacket in the round on circular needles after ridges and cut up for armholes and mid front when knitting is completed. Knit edge back and forth on needle. Cast on 240 (264) sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm with brown and knit Edge. Change to needle size 3.5 mm, inc 5 sts mid front (these sts are for cutting afterwards and should not be incorporated into the pattern – knit in the round on circular needles) continuing, knit Pattern. Remember knitting tension. When piece measures 28 (29) cm knit next row as follows: 58 (64) sts front piece, cast off 4 sts for armhole, 116 (128) sts back piece, cast off 4 sts for armhole, 58 (64) sts front piece. On next row, cast on 5 sts over the 4 cast off sts on each side (these sts are for cutting up afterwards). Continuing cast off for armhole on each side of the 5 sts on side of ever other row: 1 sts 3 (6) times (Each front piece = 55 (58) sts + 5 sts mid front), (Back piece = 110 (116) sts). When piece measures 48 (50-55) cm cast off middle 8 (10) (+ the 5 sts) for neck front. and continue cast off to shape neckline on every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 5 times, 1 sts 5 times.

When piece measures 51 (53) cm cast off middle 40 (42) sts back neck. Then cast off 2 sts on each side on next row to shape neckline back. Cast off when piece measures 53 (55) cm (adjust after pattern).

Sleeve: Cast on 52 (60) sts on double pointed needles 3,5 (2,5) mm with brown and knit Edge. Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm, inc 8 (2) sts evenly on 1st round = 60 (62) sts and continue knitting pattern (ensure to place one pattern repeat mid sleeve). At the same time after Edge inc mid under arm: 2 sts 28 (29) times on every 4th round = 116 (120) sts. When piece measures 45 (46) cm slip 6 onto thread or stitch holder mid under arm and complete knitting back and forth on needle. Continuing slip sts onto thread or stitch holder to shape sleeve cap on every other row: 4 sts 9 times. Piece measures approx 52 (53) cm. Slip all sts onto same circular needle again. Now knit 2 cm stocking sts with WS out for edge over cutting edge on body. Cast off loosely.

Assembly: Sew in a marking thread down middle of inc sts on each side and mid front. Sew two seams on sewing machine around marking threads, 1st seam = 1/2 sts from thread, 2nd seam = 1/2 sts from 1st seam. Cut up for armhole and mid front. Sew shoulder seams. Sew sleeves onto body from RS as follows: Sew alternating a sts in last garter st round of sleeve before edge and a sts on body after machine seam. Turn WS out on jacket and sew edge from sleeves over cutting edge on body by hand. Pick up approx 130 sts along left front band on circular needle size 2.5 mm with brown and knit Edge. Repeat along right front piece but after 1 cm knit 6 buttonholes evenly distributed on row - 1 button hole = cast off 3 sts and cast on 3 new sts over cast off sts on next row. Fold edge double towards WS over cutting edge of body and sew. Pick up approx 120 sts around neckline on circular needle size 2.5 mm with brown and knit 2.5 cm edge in stead of 3 cm. Fold edges double and sew. Sew in buttons.
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SWEATER:

Size: Small/medium - Medium/large

Materials:
DROPS Alaska from Garnstudio
700-800 g colour no 49, beige

or use DROPS Silke-tweed:
350-400 g colour no 8, beige

DROPS Circular needle and double pointed needles size 3.5 (2.5) and 5 (3.5) mm.

Knitting tension: 17 sts x 22 rows (23 sts x 30 rows) on needle size 5 (3.5) mm in pattern = 10 x 10 cm Remember needle sizes are guidelines only!

Pattern: See diagram (1 diagram = 1 pattern repeat) Diagrams are seen from RS.
Rib: * K1, P1 *, Repeat from *-*.

Body: Figures in () = SilkeTweed. Cast on 180-192 (244-256) sts on circular needle size 3.5 (2.5) mm with beige and knit 16 cm Rib. Change to circular needles size 5 (3.5) mm. Continue in Pattern. Remember knitting tension. When piece measures 29-31 (29-31) cm knit next row as follows: Cast off 2 sts for armhole, 86-92 (118-124) sts front piece, cast off 4 sts for armhole, 86-92 (118-124) sts back piece, cast off 2 sts for armhole. Complete each piece separately.

Front piece: = 86-92 (118-124) sts. Continuing cast off for armhole on every other row: 2 sts 1 (1-2) times, 1 sts 0-2 (2-2) times = 82-84 (110-112) sts. When piece measures 49-51 (49-51) cm cast off middle 20-22 (32-34) sts for neck Continuing cast off to shape neckline on every other row: 2 sts 2 times, 1 sts 2 times. Cast off when piece measures 54-56 (54-56) cm

Back piece: = 86-92 (118-124) sts. Continuing cast off for armhole like front piece = 82-84 (110-112) sts. When piece measures 52-54 (52-54) cm cast off middle 28-30 (40-42) sts to shape neckline. Then cast off 2 sts on each side on next row to shape neckline. Cast off when piece measures 54-56 (54-56) cm

Sleeve: Cast on 48-48 (64-64) sts on circular needle size 3.5 (2.5) mm with beige and knit 11 cm Rib. Change to double pointed needles size 5 mm. Continue in pattern. At the same time after Rib inc mid under arm: 2 sts 19-19 (26-26) times on every 4th round = 86-86 (116-116) sts. When piece measures 50-50 (50-50) cm cast off 4 sts mid under arm and complete knitting back and forth on needle. Continuing cast off to shape sleeve cap on every other row: 5 sts 4 times (6 sts 6 times), cast off. Piece measures approx 55-55 (55-55) cm.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Pick up approx 98-102 (120-130) sts around neckline on double pointed needles size 3.5 (2.5) mm with beige and purl 1 round and then knit 8 cm rib, cast off. Sew in sleeves.

Diagram

symbols = off white (jacket) - knit (sweater)
symbols = blue
symbols = dark beige
symbols = grey
symbols = brown (jacket) - purl (sweater)
symbols = light beige
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (6)

country flag HELENE ESCANDE wrote:

Que faire lors des changement de motifs, des couleurs qui doivent être retrouvées bien plus haut dans le motifs ? Doit on couper les fils des pelotes en attente ? Merci pour vos réponses

13.02.2021 - 08:24

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Escande, vous pouvez faire suivre les fils non utilisés en hauteur et les croiser en début de tour tous les 3 cm environ ou bien les couper si vous préférez. Bon tricot!

15.02.2021 - 07:24

country flag ESCANDE HELENE wrote:

Bonjour, Je me suis lancée à tricoter ce beau modèle !! après avoir tricoté la bordure (en circulaire)...j'ai compris que cette bordure est tricotée en aller et retour !!! et ce n'est pas précisé . On tricote en circulaire après la bordure avec les ajouts des 5 mailles steeks. Ai-je bien compris avant de redémarrer ma bordure avec mes 240 mailles !!! Merci de votre réponse rapide Hélène

09.02.2021 - 10:43

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Escande, effectivement, les modèles plus anciens sont expliqués différemment; dans ce cas, vous tricotez bien la bordure en rangs = en allers et retours et tricotez en rond uniquement après avoir monté les mailles steek de la bordure devant. Bon tricot!

09.02.2021 - 16:14

country flag ESCANDE HELENE wrote:

Bonjour, Peut on éviter ces mailles steek qui me dérangent vraiment ?? d'après ce que je comprend ce jacquart est fait sur chaque rang jersey ?? il n'y a donc pas un rang retour (envers)..... ce modèle est magnifique mais ....j'hésite à cause de ces mailles à découper ensuite.... merci pour votre aide Hélène

31.01.2021 - 11:44

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Escande, cette leçon explique comment adapter un modèle sur aiguilles droites. Vous trouverez également une vidéo montrant les mailles steek des manches ici et une autre sur les bordures des devants . Bon tricot!

01.02.2021 - 09:34

country flag Nicole wrote:

Beste, ik heb 240 steken opgezet voor het vest maar vraag me af waar ik moet beginnen met breien zodat de motieven mooi spiegelen bij de knopenbies. Kunt u mij hierbij helpen?

19.06.2020 - 07:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Nicole,

Het patroon heeft 24 steken, dus je breit 10 herhalingen van het patroon. In principe begin je gewoon met de eerste steek rechts onder.

23.06.2020 - 13:59

country flag Lieve Hesius wrote:

Beste, Graag wil Ik bovenstaande vest breien in de maat xl . Hoe kan Ik best de juiste berekening maken? Of is de beschrijving dit patroon ook beschikbaar in de maat xl? Dank je voor een spoedig antwoord.

12.09.2018 - 10:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Lieve, Helaas is dit (wat oudere patroon) alleen in maat S en maat L. Je zou van een nieuwer patroon een tekening er bij kunnen pakken voor de afmetingen in XL of een vest uit je kledingkast die goed ziet en daarvan de maten opmeten.

12.09.2018 - 13:24

country flag Quentin Sandra wrote:

Hallo Ich vermisse die Beschreibung des Halsbündchens :(

02.09.2016 - 06:17

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Quentin, der Text wird korrigiert so schnell wie möglich, für die Halskante müssen Sie so stricken: Mit Rundnadel Nr 2,5 mit braun ca 120 M. aus dem Halsausschnitt auffassen, die Kante mit 2,5 cm glatt (anstattt 3 cm) stricken.

02.09.2016 - 08:40