Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
Sapphire Sea Sweater / DROPS 254-31
Change language:
English (UK/cm)#sapphireseasweater
DROPS design: Pattern ee-771
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Sapphire Sea Sweater |
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Knitted jumper in DROPS Snow. Piece is knitted top down in stocking stitch with raglan. Size: S - XXXL
DROPS 254-31 |
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---------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN: ---------------------------------------------------------- RAGLAN: Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on next round knit yarns over as explained below: BEFORE RAGLAN STITCHES: Slip stitch off left needle and put it back on left needle but the opposite way (insert left needle in from behind when slipping it back on needle). Knit yarn overs in front loop of stitches to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. AFTER RAGLAN STITCHES: Knit yarn overs in back loop of stitches to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. SLEEVE TIP: When picking up stitches mid under sleeve, there will be a small hole in the transition between stitches on body and sleeves. The holes can be closed by picking up the strand between two stitches - work this strand twisted together with the first stitch between body and sleeve so that the holes closes. DECREASE TIP: Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased). ---------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ---------------------------------------------------------- JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: In this pattern needles of different length have been used, begin with fitting length for number of stitches and switch as needed. Work neck edge and yoke in the round on circular needle from right shoulder back, and work top down. When yoke is done, divide piece for body and sleeves. Work body down wards in the round on circular needle while putting the sleeves aside. Then work sleeves downwards in the round on needle. Fold the neck edge double against the wrong side and fasten. If 0 is given for the chosen size, it means that you skip the information until next information. NECK EDGE: Cast on 64-64-72-72-72-80 stitches on circular needle size 8 mm with DROPS Snow. Switch to circular needle size 6 mm (cast on on a larger needle to get an elastic cast-on edge). Work rib in the round as follows: Knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until 3 stitches remain on round, purl 2, knit 1. Work rib until piece measures 9-9-11-11-11-11 cm. Later the neck edge is folded in towards wrong side and assembled to form a neck edge of approx. 4-4-5-5-5-5 cm. Beginning of round is at right shoulder at the back. Insert 1 marker after the first 23-23-25-25-25-27 stitches on round (= approx. mid front), measures piece from this marker. YOKE: Continue with circular needle size 8 mm. Insert 4 marker threads in the piece while working first round, insert marker threads on row between 2 knit stitches, and these 2 stitches are called raglan stitches. Work first round in stocking stitch as follows: Insert 1st marker thread at the beginning of round, work 12 stitches while AT THE SAME TIME decreasing 2-2-0-2-2-2 stitches evenly over these stitches (= sleeve), insert 2nd marker thread before next stitch, work 20-20-24-24-24-28 stitches (= front piece), insert 3rd marker thread before next stitch, work 12 stitches while AT THE SAME TIME decreasing 2-2-0-2-2-2 stitches evenly over these stitches (= sleeve), insert 4th marker thread before next stitch, work 20-20-24-24-24-28 stitches (= back piece) = 60-60-72-68-68-76 stitches on needle. Work in stocking stitch in the round and increase for RAGLAN on each side of raglan stitches – read explanation above (= 8 stitches increased). Increase for raglan every other round 14-16-16-17-19-20 times in total = 172-188-200-204-220-236 stitches. Remember to follow the knitting tension! Continue with stocking stitch without increase until piece measures 21-23-24-25-27-29 cm from marker mid front. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. DIVIDING FOR BODY AND SLEEVES: AT THE SAME TIME as next round is worked divide yoke for body and sleeves as follows: Work 1-1-1-1-2-2 stitches (belongs to back piece), slip the next 36-40-42-42-44-46 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 4-4-4-6-8-8 new stitches on needle (= in the side mid under sleeve), work 50-54-58-60-66-72 stitches in stocking stitch (= front piece), slip the next 36-40-42-42-44-46 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 4-4-4-6-8-8 new stitches on needle (= in the side mid under sleeve) and work the last 49-53-57-59-64-70 stitches in stocking stitch (= back piece). Finish body and sleeves separately. BODY: = 108-116-124-132-148-160 stitches. Insert 1 marker in one side of piece (= in the middle of the 4-4-4-6-8-8 stitches that were cast on under sleeve). Work until marker, round begins here and work in the round. Work stocking stitch until piece measures 48-50-51-53-55-57 cm from marker mid front. Switch to circular needles size 6 mm, work rib (= knit 2/purl 2) while AT THE SAME TIME increasing 32-36-36-40-44-48 stitches evenly on 1st round = 140-152-160-172-192-208 stitches. When rib measures 5-5-6-6-6-6 cm, cast off all stitches somewhat loosely with knit over knit and purl over purl. Jumper measures 53-55-57-59-61-63 cm from marker mid front and approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm from the top of shoulder. SLEEVES: Slip 36-40-42-42-44-46 sleeve stitches from one thread on to circular needle size 8 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 4-4-4-6-8-8 stitches cast on under sleeve = 40-44-46-48-52-54 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 4-4-4-6-8-8 new stitches under sleeve - round begins at the marker thread. Work in stocking stitch in the round on needle - read SLEEVE TIP. When sleeve measures 2 cm from division, decrease mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP and decrease as follows: Decrease 2 stitches every 8-6-5-4½-4-3 cm 5-7-7-8-9-10 times in total = 30-30-32-32-34-34 stitches. Work until sleeve measures 41-40-37-37-36-34 cm from division. Switch to double pointed needles size 6 mm and work rib (= knit 2/purl 2) while AT THE SAME TIME increasing 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches evenly on 1st round = 36-36-40-40-44-44 stitches. When rib measures 5-5-6-6-6-6 cm, cast off all stitches somewhat loosely with knit over knit and purl over purl. Sleeve measures approx. 46-45-43-43-42-40 cm from division. ASSEMBLY: Fold the rib down on inside of garment. Fasten rib with a couple of stitches. |
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Comments / Questions (1)
Delphine wrote:
Bonjour, ai-je mal compris les instructions en début d'empiècement ou y a-t-il une erreur ? 12 (manches) x 2 + 20 (dos/devant) x 2 = 64 et non 60.
13.11.2024 - 08:34