DROPS Nord
45% Alpaca, 30% Polyamide, 25% Wool
from 2.70 £ /50g

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September Song

Knitted jumper in DROPS Nord or DROPS Flora. Piece is knitted top down with raglan, moss stitch and double neck edge. Size: S - XXXL

Highlight Size:

DROPS 252-21

#septembersongsweater

DROPS design: Pattern no-088
Yarn group A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

YARN:
DROPS NORD from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
400-450-450-500-550-600 g colour 04, light grey

Or use:
DROPS FLORA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300-350-400-400-450-500 g colour 04, medium grey

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 mm: Length 40 and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 mm: Length 40 and 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 mm
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows vertically in stocking stitch on needle size 3.5 mm = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.

RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on next round knit yarns over as explained below:
BEFORE MARKER THREAD:
Slip stitch off left needle and put it back on left needle but the opposite way (insert left needle in from behind when slipping it back on needle). Knit yarn overs in front loop of stitches to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in pattern.
AFTER MARKER THREAD:
Knit yarn overs in back loop of stitches to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in pattern.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of stitch with marker as follows:
Work until 2 stitches remain before stitch with marker, knit 2 together, knit 1 (= stitch with marker) slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased). Adjust the pattern after each decrease mid under sleeve.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
In this pattern needles of different length have been used, begin with fitting length for number of stitches and switch as needed.
Work neck edge and yoke in the round on circular needle from right shoulder back, and work top down. When yoke is done, divide piece for body and sleeves. Work body down wards in the round on circular needle while putting the sleeves aside. Then work sleeves downwards in the round on needle. Fold the neck edge double against the wrong side and fasten.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 120-128-128-136-144-152 stitches on circular needle size 3.5 mm with DROPS Nord or DROPS Flora. Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm (cast on on a larger needle to get an elastic cast-on edge). Work rib in the round as follows: Knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until 3 stitches remain on round, finish with purl 2 and knit 1. Work until piece measures 9-9-9-11-11-11 cm. Later the neck edge is folded in towards wrong side and assembled to form a neck edge of approx. 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm.
Beginning of round is at right shoulder at the back. Insert 1 marker in piece after the first 38-40-40-42-44-46 stitches on round (= approx. mid front), measures piece from this marker.

YOKE:
Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm. Insert 4 marker threads in piece without working the stitches, insert marker threads between 2 knitted stitches, and these stitches are called raglan stitches and worked in stocking stitch.
Insert 1st marker thread at beginning of round, count 16 stitches (= sleeve),
insert 2nd marker thread before next stitch, count 44-48-48-52-56-60 stitches (= front piece),
insert 3rd marker thread before next stitch, count 16 stitches (= sleeve),
insert 4th marker thread before next stitch, 44-48-48-52-56-60 stitches remain after last marker thread (= back piece).
Work 1 round in double moss stitch / A.1 (work raglan stitches on each side of marker thread in stocking stitch) AT THE SAME TIME decrease 1 stitch on each sleeve, 1 stitch on front piece and 1 stitch on back piece (= 4 stitches decreased) = 116-124-124-132-140-148 stitches.
Continue with A.1 in the round and increase for RAGLAN on each side of the 4 marker threads - read explanation above. Increase for raglan every other round 27-29-32-36-37-40 times in total = 332-356-380-420-436-468 stitches (= 8 stitches increased on every increase round). Remember to follow the knitting tension!
Increases for sleeve are now done, but continue to increase for raglan on front piece and back piece on every other round 4-4-5-3-4-5 more times = 348-372-400-432-452-488 stitches on needle (= 4 stitches increased on every increase round).
Work without increasing until piece measures 21-22-24-25-27-29 cm from marker after neck edge. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves.

DIVIDING FOR BODY AND SLEEVES:
AT THE SAME as next round is worked divide yoke for body and sleeves as follows: Slip the first 69-73-79-87-89-95 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 9-11-13-15-17-23 new stitches on needle (= in the side mid under sleeve), work 105-113-121-129-137-149 stitches as before (= front piece), slip the next 69-73-79-87-89-95 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 9-11-13-15-17-23 new stitches on needle (= in the side mid under sleeve) and work the last 105-113-121-129-137-149 stitches in pattern as before (= back piece). Work body and sleeves separately.

BODY:
= 228-248-268-288-308-344 stitches.
Begin round as before and adjust pattern over the new stitches cast on mid under sleeves.
Work A.1 in the round over all stitches until piece measures 48-50-52-53-55-57 cm from marker mid front.
Switch to circular needles size 2.5 mm, work rib (= knit 2/purl 2) while AT THE SAME TIME increasing 68-72-76-80-88-100 stitches evenly on 1st round = 296-320-344-368-396-444 stitches.
When rib measures 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm cast off all stitches somewhat loosely.
Jumper measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm from marker mid front and approx. 55-57-59-61-63-65 cm from the top of shoulder.

SLEEVES:
Slip 69-73-79-87-89-95 sleeve stitches from one thread on to circular needle size 3.5 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 9-11-13-15-17-23 stitches cast on under sleeve = 78-84-92-102-106-118 stitches.
Insert 1 marker in the middle of the 9-11-13-15-17-23 new stitches under sleeve - round begins in this stitch.
Continue A.1 from yoke in the round on needle - AT THE SAME TIME when sleeve measures 2 cm from division, decrease mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP and decrease as follows: Decrease 2 stitches every 4-3-2½-1½-1½-1 cm 9-12-14-19-19-25 times in total = 60-60-64-64-68-68 stitches - remember to adjust pattern when decreasing under sleeve.
Work until sleeve measures 39-38-37-35-33-31 cm from division.
Switch to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and work rib (= knit 2/purl 2) while AT THE SAME TIME increasing 16-16-20-20-20-20 stitches evenly on 1st round = 76-76-84-84-88-88 stitches.
When rib measures 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm cast off all stitches somewhat loosely. Sleeve measures approx. 43-42-41-40-38-36 cm from division.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold rib at the top of neck down on inside of garment. Fasten rib to get a double neck edge. To avoid a tight neck edge that sticks out it is important to keep the seam elastic.

Diagram

	= knit
	= purl

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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September Song

Liza, Germany

Comments / Questions (17)

Fanny wrote:

Bonjour, Les raglans se font-ils de part et d'autre de deux mailles (une maille avant et après le fils marqueurs) ou bien d'une seule maille (suite aux 4 premières diminutions ? Merci

24.11.2024 - 22:09

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Fanny, vous devez avoir 2 mailles pour chacun des raglans (1 maille avant le fil marqueur et 1 maille après le fil marqueur). Bon tricot!

25.11.2024 - 09:45

Susanne Blauenfeldt Gosmer wrote:

Så vidt jeg kan se, så mangler diagram 1 som I henviser til

24.11.2024 - 15:41

Jakobides Barbara wrote:

Bei der Anleitung steht vor dem Bündchen vom Ärmel 16M zunehmen wird dann das nicht zu weit und bei demRumpfteil 68M zunehmen

18.11.2024 - 23:06

Liebe Frau Jakobiner, da man mehr Maschen für das Bündchen mit den kleineren Nadeln als für das Muster mit den grösseren Nadeln braucht, muss man vor Bündchen zunehmen. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

19.11.2024 - 08:16

Claudine wrote:

Bonjour, je souhaite tricoter ce modèle mais sans le col roulé montant. pouvez vous me donner des conseils pour le faire avec un col raz du cou un peu échancré ? D'avance, merci. Cordialement

11.10.2024 - 20:00

Bonjour Claudine, pour un col plus court, tricotez simplement les côtes moins longtemps, pour un col échancré, vous pouvez vous par exemple tricoter des rangs raccourcis - cf vidéo pour que l'encolure dos soit plus haute que l'encolure devant. Bon tricot!

14.10.2024 - 07:43

Martine Drouet wrote:

Bonjour, Où se trouve le diagramme A1? Merci de votre retour

10.10.2024 - 22:00

Bonjour Mme Drouet, vous trouverez le diagramme A.1 à droite du schéma des mesures, sous la manche. Bon tricot!

11.10.2024 - 08:05

Marie wrote:

Det ser ut som en veldig fin genser, men jeg skulle ønske det var bilder fra flere vinkler så man kan se mer av genserens passform. Fem bilder som viser nesten akkurat det samme er overflødig.

30.09.2024 - 23:47

Mette Lindgren wrote:

Hvad gør jeg når jeg gerne vil have ryggen højere end for stykket. Kan jeg strikke et par omgange hvor jeg vender ved skulderen og tilbage ved næste skulder og videre rundt, efter ribben.

20.09.2024 - 10:52

Hei Mette. Det kan du evnt gjøre, men mulig det blir litt "kræsj" med perlestrikken. Lag en liten prøvelapp og se om du får det pent nok med forkortede pinner,. Se evnt video for German Short rows. mvh DROPS Design

23.09.2024 - 11:56

Peter wrote:

Absolutely stunning pattern. I love it!

06.09.2024 - 16:27

John wrote:

Basic elegance

11.08.2024 - 20:15

Ceren wrote:

Early morning

10.08.2024 - 21:44

September Song

Knitted jumper in DROPS Nord or DROPS Flora. Piece is knitted top down with raglan, moss stitch and double neck edge. Size: S - XXXL

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Pattern instructions

Diagram

How to work a jumper top down

How to read a size chart

How to read knitting diagrams

How to measure the knitting tension and how to calculate a pattern

How to increase/decrease evenly!

Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

How can I get help with a DROPS pattern?

How to change yarns or yarn amounts

How to choose yarn

How to cast on

How to knit stitches

How to work purl stitches

How to decrease stitches

How to cast off from the right side

How to cast off from the wrong side

From the #dropsfan gallery

September Song

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 252-21

Comments / Questions (17)

September Song

Knitted jumper in DROPS Nord or DROPS Flora. Piece is knitted top down with raglan, moss stitch and double neck edge. Size: S - XXXL

Diagram explanations

Do you need help with this pattern?

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	DROPS Nord uni colour 45% Alpaca, 30% Polyamide, 25% Wool	2.70 £ /50g	Order
	DROPS Nord mix 45% Alpaca, 30% Polyamide, 25% Wool	2.80 £ /50g	Order

	DROPS Nord uni colour 45% Alpaca, 30% Polyamide, 25% Wool 2.70 £ /50g Order
	DROPS Nord mix 45% Alpaca, 30% Polyamide, 25% Wool 2.80 £ /50g Order