DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 3.20 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Bunny Ears Slippers

Crocheted bunny slippers for children and women in 2 strands DROPS Fabel and 1 strand DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked from heel to toe, with crocheted ears and embroidered eyes and nose. Sizes 24 - 43. Theme: Easter.

DROPS 238-39
DROPS Design: Pattern fa-533
Yarn group A + A + A or C + A
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SIZES:
24/25 - 26/28 - 29/31 - 32/34 (35/37 - 38/40 - 41/43)
Foot-length: 15-17-18-20 (22-24-26) cm

YARN:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-50-50-50 (50-50-100) g colour 100, off white
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
25-25-25-25 (25-25-50) g colour 01, off white
A left-over in colours grey and pink for the eyes and nose.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 MM.

CROCHET TENSION:
18 double crochets in width and 21 rows in height with 2 strands DROPS Fabel and 1 strand DROPS Kid-Silk (3 strands held together) = 10 x 10 cm.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller hook size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 3.20 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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CHAIN STITCH:
If you work outermost on the hook the chain stitch will often be too tight; 1 chain stitch should be as long as 1 double crochet is wide.

CROCHET INFORMATION:
Each row starts with 1 chain stitch which does not replace the first double crochet.

DECREASE TIP-1 (for toe):
Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet until there is 1 stitch left before the marker-stitch:
* Insert the hook in the next stitch, make 1 yarn over and pull it through the stitch *, work from *-* 2 more times (4 loops on hook), make 1 yarn over and pull it through all 4 loops on the hook. 2 stitches decreased. Repeat at the other marker = 4 stitches decreased on the round. Allow the markers to follow in the middle of the decrease onwards for the next decrease.

INCREASE TIP:
Work 2 double crochets in same stitch.

DECREASE TIP-2:
* Insert the hook in the next stitch, make 1 yarn over and pull it through the stitch *, work from *-* 1 more time (3 loops on hook), make 1 yarn over and pull it through all 3 loops,. 1 stitch decreased.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SLIPPERS - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The slippers are worked back and forth from the heel, stitches are cast on for mid upper foot and the toe finished in the round. The heel is sewn together on mid back and the toe is sewn together. The ears are crocheted mid-top of foot and the eyes and nose embroidered to finish.

HEEL:
Use hook size 3.5 mm, 2 strands DROPS Fabel and 1 strand DROPS Kid-Silk (3 strands held together). Work 17-19-21-23 (23-25-27) chain stitches - read CHAIN STITCH and CROCHET INFORMATION. Work 1 double crochet in the 2nd chain stitch from the hook, then 1 double crochet in the remaining chain stitches = 16-18-20-22 (22-24-26) double crochets.
Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 7-8-10-11 (11-12-13) stitches, 2 double crochets in each of the next 2 stitches (2 increased stitches), 1 double crochet in each of the remaining stitches = 18-20-22-24 (24-26-28) stitches.
Work 1 double crochet in each stitch until the piece measures 9-10-10½-12 (13-13-13) cm – approx. 6-7-7½-8 (9-11-13) cm left to finished length.
REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
At the end of the next row work 8-8-8-8 (10-12-14) chain stitches (mid-top of foot), do not turn but continue with the first double crochet on the other side of the piece.

FOOT:
Continue in the round without finishing at the end of each round, i.e. continue with the first stitch on the next round. On the first round work 1 double crochet in each double crochet and in each chain stitch = 26-28-30-32 (34-38-42) stitches. Continue with 1 double crochet in each stitch until the piece measures 3-4-4½-5 (6-7½-9½) cm from where you started working in the round; approx. 3-3-3-3 (3-3½-3½) cm left to finished length – try the slipper on and work to desired length.

TOE:
Lay the piece flat with the 8-8-8-8 (10-12-14) chain stitches on top of the foot in the middle, insert a marker in each side (= 12-13-14-15 (16-18-20) stitches between the marker-stitches.
Continue with double crochets but decreasing each side - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease every 2nd round 2-2-2-2 (2-2-2) times in total, then every round 2-2-2-2 (2-3-3) times = 10-12-14-16 (18-18-22) stitches. The slipper measures approx. 15-17-18-20 (22-24-26) cm from heel to toe.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the piece so the markers are on each side. Sew the toe together, sewing the top stitches together with the bottom stitches – sew in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch so the seam is invisible. Sew the heel together, sewing in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch.

EARS:
Crochet 2 ears in the 8-8-8-8 (10-12-14) chain stitches mid-top of foot.
FIRST EAR:
Start from the right side:
Fasten the strand with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch, then work 1 double crochet in the same stitch, work 2-2-2-2 (2-1-1) double crochets in the next chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 1-1-1-1 (2-3-4) chain stitches and work 1 chain stitch (side of ear). There are 5-5-5-5 (6-7-8) chain stitches left which are not worked.
Turn to work in the 4-4-4-4 (5-5-6) stitches just worked.
Work 1 double crochet in the back loop of each of the 4-4-4-4 (5-5-6) stitches and work 1 chain stitch (side of ear). Now work the 8-8-8-8 (10-10-12) double crochets and 2 chain stitches in the round as follows:
ROUND 1: Work 1 double crochet in the front loop of the chain stitch and in each of the first 4-4-4-4 (5-5-6) double crochets, work 1 double crochet around the chain stitch on the side of the ear, work 1 double crochet through both loops in each of the next 4-4-4-4 (5-5-6) double crochets and 1 double crochet around the chain stitch on the side of the ear = 10-10-10-10 (12-12-14) double crochets. Continue working through both loops!
ROUNDS 2-5: 1 double crochet in each double crochet.
ROUND 6: Work double crochets and increase 3 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP = 13-13-13-13 (15-15-17) double crochets.
ROUNDS 7-9: 1 double crochet in each double crochet.
ROUND 10: Work double crochets and decrease 5 stitches evenly spaced - read DECREASE TIP-2 = 8-8-8-8 (10-10-12) double crochets.
ROUNDS 11-12: 1 double crochet in each double crochet.
ROUND 13: Work double crochets and decrease 2 stitches evenly spaced = 6-6-6-6 (8-8-10) double crochets.
ROUND 14: 1 double crochet in each double crochet.
ROUND 15: Work double crochets together 2 and 2 on the whole round = 3-3-3-3 (4-4-5) double crochets.
Cut the strand, tack it up and down through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well.

SECOND EAR:
Leave 2 chain stitches between the ears, work from the right side and start in the next chain stitch. Work the second ear in the same way as the first.

EMBROIDERY:
Use a left-over in colour grey, work 1 small chain stitch for each eye - see diagram B and photo.
Use a left-over in colour grey, work 2 long flat stitches for the whiskers - see diagram A and photo; the stitches should be 2 cm long and cross in the middle. Work 1 short flat stitch over where the whiskers cross.
Use a left-over in colour pink, work 4 small flat stitches for the nose - see diagram B and photo; the stitches start in the same stitch – position the stitches just above the small flat stitch on the whiskers.

Diagram

symbols = Flat stitch, Pictures 1-4
PICTURE 1: Insert the needle from the wrong side to the right side, where you wish the stitch to start.
PICTURE 2: Skip 0.5 - 1 cm and thread the needle down and up again to where you want the next flat stitch to start, pull the strand through.
PICTURE 3: Skip 0.5 - 1 cm and thread the needle down and up again to where you want the next flat stitch to start, pull the strand through.
Continue like this until you have enough stitches. Fasten the strand on the wrong side.
PICTURE 4: Flat stitches of different lengths and in different directions.
symbols = Chain stitch, single, Pictures 1-6.
PICTURE 1: Insert the needle from the wrong side to the right side, where you want the stitch to start.
PICTURE 2: Insert the needle through the same hole the strand came from, then up again to the right side a little further forward – allow the strand to lie under the tip of the needle.
PICTURE 3: Pull the needle through, creating a loop with the strand coming through this loop.
PICTURE 4: Insert the needle down, 0.5 cm in front of the loop and pull the strand through.
PICTURE 5: The slip stitch is finished; if you want more stitches start from Picture 1 again. Fasten the strand on the wrong side.
PICTURE 6: Various slip stitches embroidered vertically, horizontally and diagonally, some from the same hole, others from different holes.
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (11)

country flag Viktoribsn wrote:

Cinema

15.01.2024 - 02:11

country flag Davidcar wrote:

Coin

10.01.2024 - 13:20

country flag Viktorinkc wrote:

Cinema

09.01.2024 - 16:24

country flag Veronacuf wrote:

Life

29.12.2023 - 12:14

country flag Sergfqj wrote:

Novost

25.12.2023 - 08:24

country flag Igorijv wrote:

Ukraine

23.12.2023 - 13:23

country flag Susan Rüttgers wrote:

Hallo, bei dem abnehmen an der Spitze komme ich nicht zurecht. Wird vor u nach jedem markierer abgenommen od nur einmal nach einem markierer? Ich häkel Größe 39-40 u so wie sie gerechnet haben kommt es weder nach 4x abnehmen pro Reihe noch nach 2x abnehmen pro Reihe aus. Kann es sein das ihre Angaben nicht ganz stimmen od was mache ich falsch? Denn auch wenn nur 2x abgenommen wird komme ich nie am Ende auf 18 Restmaschen.

28.11.2023 - 07:38

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Rüttgers, bei jeder Markierung (beidseitig der Spitze) wird man 3 feste Maschen zusammenhäkeln: die feste Masche vor der Masche mit der Markierung + die feste Masche mit der Markierung + die nächste feste Masche = so nimmt man 1 feste Masche beidseitig jeder Markierung - siehe auch vorrige Antwort. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

28.11.2023 - 08:56

country flag Susan Rüttgers wrote:

Hallo,bei der Spitze bin ich sehr verwirrt. Muss ich vor u nach jedem markiere abnehmen oder nur pro markierer einmal. Rechnerisch kommt das bei Größe 39-40 weder beim ersten noch bei der zweiten Methode aus. Kann es sein das sie falsche Angaben gemacht haben od was mache ich falsch?mfg

27.11.2023 - 16:01

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Rüttgers, es wird unter ABNAHMETIPP-1 erklärt, wie man abnehmen wird, dh es werden 2 feste Maschen bei jeder Markierung abgenommen = je 4 Maschen. Es sind 38 Maschen und es wird 2 Mal 4 Maschen in jeder 2. Runde und 3 Mal 4 Maschen in jeder Runde abgenommen = 38-8-12=18 feste Maschen übrig. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

28.11.2023 - 08:25

country flag Lisbeth Bäckvik wrote:

Kanintofflorna: Problem med öronen. När man ska börja virka runt, hur uppstår de 8 maskorna? Hur jag än gör har jag bara 4 fasta maskor och luftmaskorna i båda sidor. Är mönstret verkligen korrekt skrivet??

22.11.2023 - 23:50

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lisbeth. Når arbeidet ditt måler 9-10-10½-12 cm skal du på siste rad hekle 8-8-8-8 luftmasker (midt oppå foten). Her oppstår de 8 maskene. Ikke snu arbeidet, men brett arbeidet slik at det kan hekles direkte videre i første fastmaske fra den andre siden av arbeidet. Hekle tøffelen ferdig etter oppskriften. Ørene: Det hekles 2 ører i de 8-8-8-8 luftmaskene som ble heklet midt oppå tøffelen. Fremdeles problemer? Send et nytt spørsmål og HUSK oppgi hvilken str. du hekler etter. mvh DROPS Design

27.11.2023 - 07:34

country flag Aitameur wrote:

Bonjour et encore merci, Je ne comprend pas l explication à (TALON) à partir de " à la fin du rang suivant.....de l autre coter de l ' ouvrage" (Et aussi dans PIED)..." Continuer en rond SANS JOINDRE A LAFIN DU TOUR" La je suis perdue....je trouve pas de vidéo explicative...merci.

07.07.2023 - 05:18

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Aitameur, à la fin du rang suivant (le dernier rang du talon), quand vous avez crocheté la dernière maille serrée, crochetez 8-10-12 ou 14 mailles en l'air (cf taille) pour le dessus du pied (la partie où seront ensuite crochetées les oreilles) et continuez maintenant en rond pour le pied en crochetant 1 maille serrée dans la 1ère maille du début du rang précédent, 1 maille serrée dans chacune des mailles du rang précédent et des mailles en l'air. Bon crochet!

27.07.2023 - 09:20