DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.85 £ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.20£. Read more.

Jewels Tide Sweater

Crocheted jumper in DROPS Muskat. The piece is worked top down with lace pattern, stripes and split in sides. Sizes S – XXXL.

DROPS 239-22
DROPS Design: Pattern r-808
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

YARN:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
500-550-550-600-650-700 g colour 83, pearl
100-150-150-150-150-150 g colour 76, light denim

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 MM.

CROCHET TENSION:
17 treble crochets in width and 10 rows in height = 10 x 10 cm.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller hook size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.85 £ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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CROCHET INFORMATION:
At the beginning of each row of treble crochets work 3 chain stitches, which replace the first treble crochet. The round finishes with 1 treble crochet in the 3rd or 2nd chain stitch from the previous row (depending on whether the row started with 2 or 3 chain stitches).
At the beginning of each row of double crochets work 2 chain stitches, which replace the first double crochet. The row finishes with 1 double crochet in the 3rd or 2nd chain stitch from the previous row.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease on a row of treble crochets inside the 2 outermost stitches on each side. Decrease 1 stitch by working 2 treble crochets together as follows:
* Make 1 yarn over, insert the hook through the next stitch, pick up the strand and pull it through the stitch, make 1 yarn over and pull it through the first 2 loops on the hook *, work from *-* 1 more time, make 1 yarn over and pull it through all 3 loops on the hook (1 stitch decreased).

STRIPES
Crochet stripes as follows: work 6 rows with colour pearl and the first row from the wrong side, * work 1 row with colour light denim and 5 rows with colour pearl*, repeat from *-* (the light denim row is always worked from the right side). To avoid cutting the pearl strand when working with light denim, lay the pearl strand over the stitches you are working, it is then hidden and carried along the row.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The front, back and sleeves are worked separately back and forth, top down. First work right shoulder on front piece increasing for neck, the work left soulder on front piece increasing for neck then join both pieces together to work front piece back and forth. Work back piece the same way. Sleeves are worked top down. The piece is sewn together and the neck worked to finish.

RIGHT FRONT SHOULDER (when the garment is worn):
Read CROCHET INFORMATION!
Work 22-22-22-28-28-34 chain stitches with hook size 4 mm and DROPS Muskat colour pearl. Work STRIPES – read description above. Work the first row as follows from the right side: Work 1 treble crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook (2 treble crochets), work 1 treble crochet in each of the remaining chain stitches = 20-20-20-26-26-32 treble crochets. Turn and work 1 treble crochet in each treble crochet.
Work from the right side as follows: A.1A, A.1B over the next 12-12-12-18-18-24 stitches, A.1C. Continue this pattern back and forth until A.1 is finished (2 stitches increased mid-front = 22-22-22-28-28-34 stitches). REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! Lay the piece to one side and work the left shoulder.

LEFT FRONT SHOULDER (when the garment is worn):
Work 22-22-22-28-28-34 chain stitches with hook size 4 mm and colour pearl. Remember STRIPES – read description above. Work the first row as follows from the right side: Work 1 treble crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook (2 treble crochets), work 1 treble crochet in each of the remaining chain stitches = 20-20-20-26-26-32 treble crochets. Turn and work 1 treble crochet in each treble crochet.
Work as follows from the right side: Work A.1D, A.1B over the next 6-6-6-12-12-18 stitches, A.1E. Continue this pattern back and forth until A.1 is finished (2 stitches increased mid-front = 22-22-22-28-28-34 stitches).
At the end of the last row work 25-31-31-25-31-31 slightly loose chain stitches for the neck. Fasten the chain-stitch row with 1 slip stitch in the outermost stitch by the neck on the right shoulder (from the wrong side). Cut and fasten the strand. Now the front piece has been joined together.

FRONT PIECE:
Start from the right side on the right shoulder, continue over the chain stitches, then work the left shoulder as follows: Work A.2A, A.2B over the next 60-66-66-72-78-90 stitches, A.2C. NOTE: When working the chain stitches, work 1 treble crochet in each chain stitch = 69-75-75-81-87-99 stitches. Continue this pattern back and forth. A.2 is repeated in height. AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 19-19-19-20-22-22 cm (adjust so that next row is a row with treble crochets), work 8 chain stitches at the end of the row for one armhole. Turn and work 1 treble crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook, work 1 treble crochet in each of the other 4 chain stitches, work to the end of the row as before and work 8 chain stitches at the end of the row for the second armhole. Turn and work 1 treble crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook, work 1 treble crochet in each of the other 4 chain stitches, work to the end of the row as before = 81-87-87-93-99-111 stitches. Continue the pattern but now with 2 extra repeats of A.2B.

Continue working until the piece measures 53-55-57-59-61-63 cm. Work 1 row of treble crochets. Cut and fasten the strand. The front piece measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the shoulder.

LEFT BACK SHOULDER (when the garment is worn):
Remember STRIPES! Work 22-22-22-28-28-34 chain stitches with hook size 4 mm and colour pearl. Work the first row as follows from the right side: Work 1 treble crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook (2 treble crochets), work 1 treble crochet in each of the remaining chain stitches = 20-20-20-26-26-32 treble crochets. Turn and work 1 treble crochet in each treble crochet.
Lay the piece to one side and work the right shoulder.

RIGHT BACK SHOULDER (when garment is worn):
Work 22-22-22-28-28-34 chain stitches with hook size 4 mm and colour pearl. Remember STRIPES! Work the first row as follows from the right side: Work 1 treble crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook (2 treble crochets), work 1 treble crochet in each of the remaining chain stitches = 20-20-20-26-26-32 treble crochets. Turn and work 1 treble crochet in each treble crochets.
At the end of this row work 29-35-35-29-35-35 slightly loose chain stitches for the neck. Fasten the chain-stitch row with 1 slip stitch in the outermost stitch by the neck on the left shoulder (from the wrong side). Cut and fasten the strand. Now the back piece is joined.

BACK PIECE:
Start from the right side on the left back shoulder, and continue as follows from the right side continue over the chain stitches, then work the right back shoulder as follows: Work A.1A, A.1B over the next 60-66-66-72-78-90 stitches, A.1E. Continue this pattern back and forth. When A.1 is finished in height, work as follows: Work A.2A, A.2B over the next 60-66-66-72-78-90 stitches, A.2C. A.2 is repeated in height. AT THE SAME TIME, when the piece measures 19-19-19-20-22-22 cm, work 8 chain stitches at the end of the row for one armhole. Turn and work 1 treble crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook, work 1 treble crochet in each of the other 4 chain stitches, work to the end of the row as before and work 8 chain stitches at the end of the row for the second armhole. Turn and work 1 treble crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook, work 1 treble crochet in each of the other 4 chain stitches, work to the end of the row as before = 81-87-87-93-99-111 stitches. Continue the pattern but now with 2 extra repeats of A.2B.

Continue working until the piece measures 53-55-57-59-61-63 cm. Work 1 row of treble crochets. Cut and fasten the strand. The back piece measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the shoulder.

SLEEVES:
Work 65-65-65-71-77-77 chain stitches with hook size 4 mm and colour pearl. Remember STRIPES! Work the first row as follows from the right side: Work 1 treble crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook (2 treble crochets), work 1 treble crochet in each of the remaining chain stitches = 63-63-63-69-75-75 treble crochets.
Work the next row as follows from the wrong side: 4 chain stitches (= 1 treble crochet + 1 chain stitch), skip 2 treble crochets, * work 2 treble crochets before the next treble crochet (worked between the treble crochets), 1 chain stitch, skip 3 treble crochets* work from *-* until there are 3 treble crochets left, work 2 treble crochets before the next treble crochet, 1 chain stitch, skip 2 treble crochets and finish with 1 treble crochet in the last treble crochet = 63-63-63-69-75-75 stitches.
Work the next row as follows from the right side: Work A.2A, A.2B over the next 54-54-54-60-66-66 stitches, A.2C. Continue this pattern back and forth. A.2 is repeated in height.
AT THE SAME TIME when the sleeve measures 6 cm decrease 1 stitch on each side – read DECREASE TIP (2 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 6-6-6-5-4½-4½ cm a total of 8-8-8-9-11-10 times on each side = 47-47-47-51-53-55 stitches. When the sleeve measures 55-55-56-55-54-52 cm, cut and fasten the strand. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew the sleeve seams, leaving a split of 4 cm at the top. Sew the sleeve cap to the armhole. Sew the split at the top of the sleeve to the bottom of the armhole– see sketch.
Sew the side seams, edge to edge in the outermost stitch, leaving a split of 20 cm at the bottom.

NECK:
Start on one shoulder, with hook size 4 mm and colour pearl: Work 1 double crochet in the first stitch, * 3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around the next row/chain-stitch *, work from *-* around the neck, finish with 3 chain stitches and 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet at the beginning of the round. Cut and fasten the strand.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 05.05.2023
New diagrams A.2A, A.2B and A.2C

Diagram

symbols = 1 chain stitch
symbols = 1 double crochet in stitch
symbols = 1 double crochet around chain stitch/chain-space
symbols = 1 treble crochet in stitch
symbols = 1 treble crochet around chain stitch/chain-space
symbols = 3 TREBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER IN SAME STITCH: Work 2 treble crochets in next double crochet, but wait with last yarn over and pull-through on both stitches, work 1 more treble crochet in same stitch and pull last yarn over through all 4 loops on hook
symbols = 3 TREBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER AROUND CHAIN STITCH/CHAIN-SPACE: Work 2 treble crochets around chain stitch/chain-space, but wait with last yarn over and pull-through on both stitches, work 1 more treble crochet around same chain stitch/chain-space and pull last yarn over through all 4 loops on hook
symbols = first row is not worked; it has already been worked and just shows how to work the next row in the stitches
symbols = sew sleeve cap to armhole: a to A and b to B

diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (17)

country flag Charles Gunderson wrote:

Confused on how to setup the armholes on the front and back pieces, will it be one row lower on the other side from where I do it first?

29.12.2023 - 00:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mr Gunderson, correct, but this won't be visible afterwards. Another alternative is to cut the yarn and start with new chains, work next row as before and end the row with chains for both armholes on same row. Happy crocheting!

02.01.2024 - 10:09

country flag Lucia Pagano wrote:

Jewels Tide Sweater. Quale filato di lana acquistare per questo modello?

10.11.2023 - 23:29

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Lucia, DROPS Muskat appartiene al gruppo filati B: può lavorare con uno dei filati di lana appartenenti a questo gruppo, ad esempio Lima, Karisma, Merino Extra Fine. Buon lavoro!

12.11.2023 - 12:00

country flag Claudia wrote:

Hallo, gibts hierzu ein ausführliches Video? Bin Anfänger und verstehe nur Bahnhof. Weiß nicht wo ich anfangen soll.

09.09.2023 - 07:28

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Claudia, wir haben kein Video für das ganze Modell, der Pullover wird hier von oben nach unten gehäkelt: die 1. Schulter, dann die 2., dann häkelt man Luftmaschen dazwischen für Halsausschnitt dann Maschen für Armausschnitt zunehmen und bis unten häkeln. Diagramme häkeln Sie wie bei der schriftlichen Anleitung erklärt - hier wird erklärt, wie man Diagramme liest. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

11.09.2023 - 08:37

country flag Susanne wrote:

Kann man den Pullover auch einfach im ganzen häkeln nach den Ärmeln so wie das bei anderen Modellen der Fall ist. Ich würde dann nach den Ärmeln in Runden hin und zurück häkeln. Wie beispielsweise beim Modell Seashore Bliss 169-15. Die Modelle sind übrigens alle sehr schön ich habe eure Seite schon ganz oft weiter empfohlen. Gruß Susanne

30.07.2023 - 11:52

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Susanne, ja wahrscheinlich, dann sollen Sie vielleicht die Maschenanzahl der Runde / das Muster vom Diagram entsprechend an den Seiten anpassen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

31.07.2023 - 10:57

country flag Gisela Capito wrote:

Für das Rückenvorder_ und rückenteil sind es jeweils 20 Maschen angegeben, plus 35 Luftmaschen. Dies ergibt eine Summe von 75 Maschen. In Ihrer Anleitung stehen aber 66 Maschen. Habe ich etwas übersehen?

30.06.2023 - 16:11

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Capito, ja ganz genau, 75 Maschen sind es insgesamt, und so verteilt: A.2A (= 2 M), A.2B über 66 Maschen und A.2C (= 7 M) = 2+66+7= 75 Maschen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

03.07.2023 - 11:19

country flag Judith Cockayne wrote:

Thank you for your previous answer. I'm confused because on the written instructions the previous row is a row of double crochet not treble. Which should I do?

13.06.2023 - 13:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Cockayne, make sure you are reading the appropriate English pattern, since UK and US crochet terminology are different (click on the scroll down menu and select either UK or US) - in the UK pattern (as the flag in your comment) you crochet 1 treble crochet in each chain stitch at the beg of shoulders (= 20-20-20-26-26-32 treble crochets) and then work as shown in diagram. Happy crocheting!

13.06.2023 - 13:42

country flag Judith Cockayne wrote:

In pattern 239-22, first row of A.1a what do the vertical dashes mean at the beginning of the first crocheted row? Also, I have just completed the first 2 rows before the start of the pattern, they are double crochet rows. The pattern A1A &A1B both say the last row was trebles. Please clarify.

12.06.2023 - 21:24

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Cockayne, this vertical dash is explained under 1st symbol from diagram key: it's a chain stitch, so that you will start on first row with A.1A with 2 chains, then 1 dc (UK-English) in the next stitch. The first row worked before A.1 was a row with treble crochets = the row with a star in diagram, now start on next row with A.1A (and dc + chain stitches to get chain spaces). Happy crocheting!

13.06.2023 - 08:29

country flag Pam wrote:

Hallo, irgendwie ist auf einmal das Häkeldiagramm verschwunden und die Maßskizze auch. Stecke mitten im Projekt und bräuchte beides.

20.05.2023 - 00:00

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Pam, sind die Diagramme jetzt zurück? Wenn nicht, könnten Sie mal schauen, ob Sie die Diagramme andere Modellen sehen können? Versuchen Sie die Seite zu aktualisieren (Ctrl + F5), oder auch mal Cache/Cookies zu leeren, es kann auch helfen.

22.05.2023 - 08:17

country flag April wrote:

How is A2 repeated lengthways? There are 17 rows of A2 so if I crochet 17 rows back and forth, by row 18 I'm due to work left to right, but the first row of A2 is worked right to left. Also there's not the right spaces in row 17 to accommodate the instructions for a repeat of the first row. Am I supposed to start the repeat from a different row? I've never crocheted before so thanks for all the resources on your site. It's very helpful.

30.04.2023 - 14:21

DROPS Design answered:

Dear April, thanks for noticing, diagram A.2 will be updated soon. Happy crocheting!

05.05.2023 - 08:32

country flag Silke wrote:

Ik tel 17 lijnen in het patroon voor A.2. Daardoor eindig je aan de verkeerde kant. Lees ik het patroon fout? Is er een manier om dat op te vangen?

28.04.2023 - 22:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Silke,

Dat maakt niet uit want je kunt de toeren zowel aan de goede als de verkeerde kant haken, dus als je de volgende herhaling van A.2 haakt, dan begin je met de eerste toer aan de verkeerde kant.

30.04.2023 - 16:49