DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 2.90 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Christmas Calendar

Pink Salt Vest

Knitted vest in DROPS Air and DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. The piece is worked top down with European shoulders / diagonal shoulders and high neck. Sizes S - XXXL.

Highlight Size:
DROPS 237-3

#pinksaltvest

DROPS Design: Pattern ai-409
Yarn group C + C or E
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
200-200-200-250-250-250 g colour 32, blush
And use:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
100-100-100-125-125-150 g colour 20, pink sand

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 MM: Length 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 8 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 7 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
11 stitches in width and 15 rows in height with stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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You might also like...

DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 2.90 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP FROM THE RIGHT SIDE:
Increase towards the left AFTER MARKER:
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from front and knit stitch in back loop.
Increase towards the right BEFORE MARKER:
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from behind and knit stitch in front loop.

INCREASE TIP FROM THE WRONG SIDE:
Increase towards the left AFTER MARKER:
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from behind and purl stitch in front loop.
Increase towards the right BEFORE MARKER:
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from front and purl stitch in back loop.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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VEST – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
VEST – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The pattern uses both long and short needles; start with the length which fits the number of stitches and change when necessary.
The piece is started back and forth, casting on stitches at the back of the neck and working the back piece top down while increasing stitches on each side for the shoulders, which become slightly diagonal. The back piece is worked as far as the armholes.
The front piece is then worked in 2 sections, knitting up stitches along 1 back shoulder, increasing for the neckline. This is repeated on the other shoulder. The 2 front sections are joined when the neckline is finished and worked until the armholes are finished.
The front and back pieces are then joined and the body worked in the round.
Stitches are knitted up around the neckline and the neck is worked in the round, then folded double to the inside. Stitches are knitted up around the armholes for the sleeve edge.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 24-24-24-26-26-28 stitches with circular needle size 8 mm and 1 strand of each quality (2 strands).
Purl 1 row from the wrong side.
Insert 1 marker after the 4th stitch from each side. The markers should sit outside the outermost 4 stitches on each row onwards.
Work stocking stitch back and forth.
AT THE SAME TIME increase AFTER the marker at the beginning of the row (seen from the right side) and BEFORE the marker at the end of the row – read INCREASE TIP FROM RIGHT SIDE.
On the next row (wrong side) increase in the same way – read INCREASE TIP FROM WRONG SIDE.
Continue increasing like this from both the right and wrong side a total of 14-16-18-18-20-20 times = 52-56-60-62-66-68 stitches.
The piece is now measured from here!
Then work stocking stitch until the piece measures 22-22-23-24-25-26 cm, down the armhole. Cut the yarn, put stitches on a thread or on an extra needle and work the front piece as explained below

FRONT PIECE:
Star with left shoulder (when the garment is worn).
Knit up 14-16-18-18-20-20 stitches inside the outermost stitch along the left shoulder on the back piece (when the garment is worn, knitting up 1 stitch in each row along the edge). Work stocking stitch back and forth for 5 cm. Now increase stitches at the beginning of each row from the right side for the neck, but inside 3 stitches (instead of 4 stitches previously) – remember INCREASE FROM THE RIGHT SIDE. Increase 1 stitch 4 times = 18-20-22-22-24-24 stitches. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Cut the yarn, put stitches on a thread or on an extra needle. Work the right shoulder as explained below.

Work the right shoulder:
Knit up 14-16-18-18-20-20 stitches inside the outermost stitch along the right shoulder on the back piece. Work stocking stitch back and forth for 5 cm. Now increase stitches at the end of each row from the right side, inside 3 stitches (instead of 4 previously) – remember INCREASE FROM THE RIGHT SIDE. Increase 1 stitch 4 times = 18-20-22-22-24-24 stitches.
Purl back from the wrong side after the last increase.
Work the next row from the right side as follows: Knit the 18-20-22-22-24-24 stitches from the right front piece, cast on 16-16-16-18-18-20 stitches for the neck at the end of the row then knit the 18-20-22-22-24-24 stitches from the left front piece = 52-56-60-62-66-68 stitches.

Work stocking stitch back and forth until the front piece measures 26-28-29-30-31-32 cm, along the armhole.
Now join the front and back pieces for the body.

BODY:
Work stocking stitch over the 52-56-60-62-66-68 stitches from the front piece and cast on 4-4-4-8-10-14 stitches at the end of the row (= side), work stocking stitch over the 52-56-60-62-66-68 stitches from the back piece and cast on 4-4-4-8-10-14 stitches at the end of the row = 112-120-128-140-152-164 stitches. Work stocking stitch in the round until the piece measures 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm from the top of the front piece. Now divide the piece for a split in each side.
Place the 56-60-64-70-76-82 stitches from the front piece on a thread or extra needle and work the back piece.

BACK PIECE:
Change to circular needle size 7 mm, knit 1 row from the right side and increase 9-11-13-13-13-13 stitches evenly spaced = 65-71-77-83-89-95 stitches. Work the next row as follows from the wrong side: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * purl 3, knit 3 *, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left, purl 3, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 10 cm. Cast off.

FRONT PIECE:
Place the stitches on circular needle size 7 mm and work in the same way as the back piece.

NECK:
Start on one shoulder and knit up inside the 1 edge stitch, and from the right side, 72 to 90 stitches around the neck using short circular needle size 7 mm. Work rib in the round (knit 3, purl 3) for 20 cm. Cast off a little loosely. The neck can be folded double to the inside and fasten with a couple of stitches in each side.

SLEEVE EDGES:
Knit up 60 to 78 stitches around the armhole with short circular needle size 7. Work rib in the round (knit 3, purl 3) for 3 cm. Cast off. Work a similar edge around the other armhole.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (37)

country flag Tamela Seitz wrote:

Can’t wait to started knitting this pattern

03.12.2024 - 16:02

country flag Aims wrote:

I would like to crochet this instead. Any guidance on how to crochet it

15.10.2024 - 15:12

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Aims, we only have a knitted version for this pattern, please find all our crochet patterns for vest here. Happy crocheting!

15.10.2024 - 16:58

country flag Anna wrote:

Bonjour, Concernant le dos, quand il s’agit de mesurer le long de l’emmanchure, on parle bien de démarrer la mesure après les dernières augmentations ? Merci beaucoup

10.10.2024 - 14:02

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Anna, tout à fait, mesurez le long de la partie "droite" après les augmentations - retrouvez une vidéo et une leçon en haut de page pour visualiser le dos et les autres parties de ce type de modèles. Bon tricot!

10.10.2024 - 16:12

country flag Tina wrote:

Jeg skal begynne å strikke vrangborden rundt ermehull. Jeg strikker str M, og i oppskriften står det "strikk opp ca 60-78 masker rundt ermehullet" Når jeg strikker opp nøyaktig én og én maske hele veien rundt ermehull, får jeg 113 masker masker på liten rundpinne 7. Hvordan er det meningen at man kun skal ha 60-78 masker?

06.10.2024 - 21:33

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Tina, Hvis du vil ha videre ermehull, kan du strikke opp flere masker. For å få ermehull som i bildet, er det best å strikke opp antall masker som beskrevet, og strikke opp 1 maske i ca 2. hver maske. God fornøyelse!

07.10.2024 - 07:03

country flag Kari Clausen wrote:

Når jeg tager ud i starten og følger opskriften kommer der hul, der hvor jeg tager ud - hvad mon jeg gør galt ?

04.10.2024 - 02:12

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Kari. Husk å lese ØKETIPS FRA RETTEN og ØKETIPS FRA VRANGEN hvordan tråden skal strikkes (bakre eller fremste maskeledd). Se gjerne hjelpevideoene hvordan strikke en Europeisk skulder. Du finner videoene til høyre /eller under bildet. mvh DROPS Design

15.10.2024 - 11:29

country flag Ginny wrote:

Hello! Is the neck actually folded and sewn down at the neckline in the picture? It looks like it is but in the video it's just folded down and free.

26.09.2024 - 10:29

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ginny, just choose how you rather get the neck either sewn inside or just folded double outside. Happy knitting!

27.09.2024 - 07:56

country flag Susan wrote:

Hei Jos haluan tehdä pitkät hihat, paljon tarvitsen lisää lankaa?

01.09.2024 - 22:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, hankkisin 3 kerää lisää kummastakin langasta. Langanmenekki riippuu tietysti hihojen pituudesta.

03.09.2024 - 18:07

country flag Glynne wrote:

Thanks for another great pattern. I lovely the construction on this and the way the hem band sits. Ngā mihi nui

01.04.2024 - 10:31

country flag Wargh Skillerstedt Camilla wrote:

Hur tvättar jag plagget? Skulle önska att det krympte en aning.

25.02.2024 - 19:56

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Wargh. Følg vaskeanvisningen på garnet. Både DROPS Alpaca og DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk skal håndvaskes maks 30°C. Både Alpaca og Brushed Alpaca Silk vil krympe / tove dersom det blir feil vasket (maskinvasket), og resultatet kan da bli en mini-vest og vaskes det i maskin har du ingen kontroll på hvor mye den vil krympe/tove før det er for sent. mvh DROPS Design

04.03.2024 - 09:40

country flag Amalie Bekkelund Hole wrote:

Hei! Når jeg følger oppskriften for øking i starten av bakstykket så «buler» maskene ut fordi de er strikket vridd rett og vridd vrang (hvis jeg har tolket oppskriften riktig da). Stemmer dette? Klarte ikke se at det så sånn ut på bilde.

15.01.2024 - 20:12

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Amalie, se videoen nederst i opskriften, her ser du tydeligt hvordan det skal se ud når du følger opskriften :)

16.01.2024 - 14:33