DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour 77% Alpaca, 23% Silk |
2.90 £ /25g |
Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Marbled No. 630
OrderClicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
Change language:
English (UK/cm)#eveningfiresjacket
DROPS design: Pattern as-157
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour 77% Alpaca, 23% Silk 2.90 £ /25g Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Marbled No. 630
OrderClicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side | |
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row work yarn over twisted to avoid holes | |
= slip 5 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 5, knit 5 from cable needle | |
= slip 5 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 5, knit 5 from cable needle | |
= sew sleeve cap to armhole as follows: Sew a against A and b against B. |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Evening Fires Jacket |
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Knitted jacket in 2 strands DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk or 1 strand DROPS Wish. Piece is knitted with cables, double neck edge and ribs. Size: S - XXXL
DROPS 226-39 |
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---------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN: ---------------------------------------------------------- GARTER STITCH (back and forth): Knit all rows. 1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side. BUTTONHOLES: Decrease for buttonholes on right band. 1 BUTTONHOLE = knit third and fourth stitch from edge together and make 1 yarn over. On next row knit yarn over to make hole. Decrease for buttonholes when piece measures: S: 5, 13, 21, 29, 37 and 45 cm. M: 5, 13, 21, 29, 38 and 47 cm. L: 5, 13, 22, 31, 40 and 49 cm. XL: 5, 14, 23, 31, 41 and 51 cm. XXL: 5, 14, 23, 33, 43 and 53 cm. XXXL: 5, 15, 25, 35, 45 and 55 cm. INCREASE TIP: Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over. On next round purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes = 2 stitches increased. Then purl the new stitches. ---------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ---------------------------------------------------------- JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: Piece back and forth on circular needle from mid front, from the bottom and up to armholes, then divide the piece and finish front piece and back piece separately. Work sleeves in the round on a short circular needle/double pointed needles, bottom up . BODY: Cast on 116-124-132-140-148-156 stitches on circular needle size 6 mm with 2 strands DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk or 1 strand DROPS Wish. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work rib as follows – from right side: 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above - * knit 2 / purl 2 *, work from *-* until 7 stitches remain, knit 2 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. At the same time when piece measures 5 cm, begin decrease for BUTTONHOLES - read explanation above! Continue with rib until piece measures 6 cm, switch to circular needle size 8 mm. Continue as follows– from right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, purl 8. A.1 (= 10 stitches that are increased to 15 stitches), purl 14-18-22-26-30-34, A.1, purl 6, A.1, purl 6, A.1, purl 14-18-22-26-30-34, A.1, purl 8, 5 band stitches in garter stitch. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 141-149-157-165-173-181 stitches on needle. Continue with A.2 (= 15 stitches) over every A.1, work the remaining stitches as before. Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 30-31-32-33-34-35 cm, divide the piece for front pieces and back piece. Work next row as follows: Work 34-36-38-40-42-44 stitches, cast off 4 stitches for armhole, work 65-69-73-77-81-85 stitches, cast off 4 stitches for armhole, work the last 34-36-38-40-42-44 stitches. Each part is worked separately back and forth on needle. Slip the first and last 34-36-38-40-42-44 stitches on a stitch holder, and then work over the 65-69-73-77-81-85 stitches on back piece. BACK PIECE: = 65-69-73-77-81-85 stitches. Work as follows - from right side: Purl 4-6-8-10-12-14, A.2, purl 6, A.2, purl 6, A.2, purl 4-6-8-10-12-14. When piece measures 49-51-53-55-57-59 cm, decrease 5 stitches over middle repetition of A.2, on next row cast off the middle 14-16-18-20-22-24 stitches for neck, and finish each shoulder separately. Then cast off 1 stitch on next row from neck = 22-23-24-25-26-27 stitches. Work the stitches in A.2 in stocking stitch, decrease at the same time 5 stitches evenly over these stitches = 17-18-19-20-21-22 stitches. Cast off when piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm (= 22-23-24-25-26-27 cm from division for armholes). Work the other shoulder the same way. LEFT FRONT PIECE: Slip the first 34-36-38-40-42-44 stitches back on circular needle size 8 mm. Work as follows - from right side: Purl 6-8-10-12-14-16, A.2, purl 8, 5 stitches in garter stitch. When piece measures 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm, slip the outermost 8-9-10-11-12-13 stitches towards mid front on a stitch holder for neck, work them before slipping them on stitch holder to avoid cutting the yarn. Then cast off stitches on every row from neck as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 2 times = 22-23-24-25-26-27 stitches remain on shoulder. Work the stitches in A.2 in stocking stitch, decrease at the same time 5 stitches evenly over these stitches = 17-18-19-20-21-22 stitches. Cast off when piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm (= 22-23-24-25-26-27 cm from division for armholes). RIGHT FRONT PIECE: Slip the last 34-36-38-40-42-44 stitches back on circular needle size 8 mm. Work as follows - from right side: 5 stitches in garter stitch, purl 8, A.2, purl 6-8-10-12-14-16. When piece measures 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm, slip the outermost 8-9-10-11-12-13 stitches towards mid front on a stitch holder for neck, work them before slipping them on stitch holder to avoid cutting the yarn. Then cast off stitches on every row from neck as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 2 times = 22-23-24-25-26-27 stitches remain on shoulder. Work the stitches in A.2 in stocking stitch, decrease at the same time 5 stitches evenly over these stitches = 17-18-19-20-21-22 stitches. Cast off when piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm (= 22-23-24-25-26-27 cm from division for armholes). SLEEVE: Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle and bottom up. Cast on 32-32-36-36-40-40 stitches on double pointed needles size 6 mm with 2 strands Brushed Alpaca Silk or 1 strand DROPS Wish. Knit 1 round, then work rib as follows: SIZE S-M-XXL-XXXL: Knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2 *, repeat from *-* over the next 30-30-38-38 stitches, finish with knit 1. SIZE L-XL: Purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* over the next 34-34 stitches, finish with purl 1. Work rib for 6 cm, switch double pointed needles size 8 mm. Work next round as follows: Purl the first 11-11-13-13-15-15 stitches, at the same time increase 3-4-3-4-3-4 stitches evenly over these stitches, A.1, purl the last 11-11-13-13-15-15 stitches, at the same time increase 3-4-3-4-3-4 stitches evenly over these stitches. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically and the increases have been done evenly, there are 43-45-47-49-51-53 stitches on needle. Continue with A.2 over stitches in A.1 and purl as before. Insert a marker thread at beginning of round = mid under sleeve. When piece measures 8 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of marker thread - read INCREASE TIP. Increase every 9-9-9-8-8-8 cm 5 times in total in every size = 53-55-57-59-61-63 stitches. When sleeve measures 49-48-47-46-45-44 cm, work sleeve cap back and forth (from mid under sleeve) on circular needle until finished measurements. When piece measures 50-49-48-47-46-45 cm, decrease 5 stitches evenly over stitches in A.2. Work until sleeve measures approx. 51-50-49-48-47-46 cm, i.e. there is a vent of 2 cm at the top of sleeve. Work another sleeve the same way. ASSEMBLY: Sew the shoulder seams. Sew sleeve cap to armhole. Then sew vent at the top of sleeve to bottom of armhole - see chart. Sew the buttons on to left front piece. NECK EDGE: Begin mid front and from right side, and pick up approx. 48-68 stitches (number of stitches should be divisible by 4) around the neck (including stitches on stitch holders) on circular needle size 6 mm with 2 strands Brushed Alpaca Silk or 1 strand DROPS Wish. Work rib as follows – first row is worked from wrong side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, purl 2, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until 5 stitches remain, and work 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Work rib for 12 cm. Loosely cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Fold rib at the top of neck down on inside of garment. Fasten the rib to get a double neck edge, and sew opening in each side towards mid front. To avoid a tight neck edge that sticks out it is important to keep the seam elastic. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 309 catalogues and 11629 patterns translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (12)
Sian wrote:
For A2 is cable stitch knitted on row 1 and then 7 rows of purl and knit on alternate rows or is cable on every row? I am confused .
01.11.2024 - 23:06DROPS Design answered:
Dear Sian, the cables are worked in rows 3 and 11 of the repeat. Both rows have a different type of cable stitches; you can see the explanations in the Diagram explanations. The rows in-between are worked back and forth in stocking stitch: knit from right side and purl from wrong side. Happy knitting!
03.11.2024 - 13:21Anna Christensen wrote:
Er der ikke mønster på ryggen ?
20.10.2024 - 15:03Nancy wrote:
Hello, since A1 (10 sts) is changed to A2 (15 sts) on the RS, is A2 worked on the next row, WS? Thank you.
13.12.2023 - 16:12DROPS Design answered:
Dear Nancy, A.1 is worked over 2 rows: first row is worked with increases from RS and 2nd row is worked from wrong side. A.2 starts from right side. Happy knitting!
13.12.2023 - 16:26Lena wrote:
Hvilken størrelse skal snoningspinden være?
17.10.2023 - 18:39DROPS Design answered:
Hej Lena, det betyder ikke så meget, men hvis du har flere så vælg en omkring pind 6 :)
18.10.2023 - 07:25Karin wrote:
Hoe brei ik de mouw kop van dit patroon? Staat in de beschrijving maar niet duidelijk voor mij. Patroon tekening geeft een rechte bovenkant aan.
11.10.2023 - 18:46DROPS Design answered:
Dag Karin,
Er zit geen ronde mouwkop aan de mouw. De mouw wordt wel a.h.w. een stukje in het pand geschoven, dat kun je zien aan de inham bij de oksel in de tekening. Dus een stukje van de onderarmnaad wordt tegen de mouwopening op het pand genaaid.
11.10.2023 - 19:17Betty wrote:
Bonjour, Je souhaite faire ce modèle avec des aiguilles droites, pourriez-vous m'aider à le convertir ? Je sais que je dois ajouter une maille lisière de chaque côté (donc deux mailles en tout) pour le dos et le devant, ça, ça reste simple... Comment puis-je faire pour le reste ? Les motifs et autres sont inchangés ? Dois-je tricoter différent (endroit/envers) avec des aiguilles droites ? Je suis un peu perdue ! Merci pour votre aide !
15.04.2023 - 17:49DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Betty, comme le dos et les devants se tricotent en allers et retours sur aiguille circulaire en une seule partie, vous n'avez pas besoin de rajouter de mailles lisières, suivez simplement les indications telles qu'elles sont. Pour les manches, vous devrez juste ajouter 1 m lis de chaque côté. - pensez à les rabattre quand vous commencez le haut de la manche. Bon tricot!
17.04.2023 - 09:06Anita wrote:
Hallo liebes Drops Team,\r\nIch denke da stimmt was mit dem Ärmel nicht. Es steht Anschlag 40 Maschen, danach bei A1 2x 4 Maschen zunehmen, dann sollten total 53 Maschen sein aber das sind ja erst 48. Habe ich etwas übersehen? \r\nLiebe Grüße\r\nAnita
17.02.2023 - 22:48Silke Blechschmidt wrote:
Hallo Team Drops, das ist eine wunderbare Jacke! Können Sie sagen, wieviel Gramm Wolle man mehr benötigt, wenn man die Jacke als Longjacke/Mantel arbeitet, also oberschenkellang in der Größe XL? \r\nVielen Dank.\r\nViele Grüße
26.02.2022 - 12:31Stacey wrote:
Thank you @DROPS Design team!
16.10.2021 - 13:13Stacey wrote:
Hello, I am willing to knit this piece using 1 strand of Brushed Alpaca Silk and 1 strand of Big Merino in size M. Could you tell me how much yarn I will need?
15.10.2021 - 14:46DROPS Design answered:
Dear Stacey, the jacket is worked with 2 strands Brushed Alpaca Silk, divide the amount in 2 and use this amount to convert into Big Merino with the help of our yarn converter. Happy knitting!
15.10.2021 - 16:16