DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 1.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 3.90£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24

Citrus Sun

Knitted top in DROPS Safran. The piece is worked in stocking stitch, with V-neck, ribbed edges and small lace sections. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 223-30
DROPS Design: Pattern no e-317
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
The garment measurements will be slightly smaller than those given in the sketch because the ribbing contracts the piece in each side.

MATERIALS:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150-200-200-200-250-250 g colour 28, orange

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 60 cm or 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM: Length 60 cm or 80 cm for edges.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 1.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 3.90£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

LACE-PATTERN SECTIONS:
Decrease and increase at the marker threads on the front and back pieces as shown in diagrams A.1 and A.2.

DECREASE TIP (for armholes):
All decreases are worked from the right side!
Decrease on the inside of the outermost 7-7-9-9-11-11 stitches on each side. These 7-7-9-9-11-11 stitches are worked as follows from the edge (seen from the right side): 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* a total of 3-3-4-4-5-5 times.
DECREASING AFTER THE 7-7-9-9-11-11 STITCHES:
Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (1 stitch decreased).
DECREASING BEFORE THE 7-7-9-9-11-11 STITCHES:
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the 7-7-9-9-11-11 edge stitches, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), work the 7-7-9-9-11-11 stitches as before.

DECREASE TIP-2 (for V-neck):
All decreases are worked from the right side!
Decrease on the inside of the 3 outermost stitches towards the neck. These 3 stitches are worked as follows from the edge (seen from the right side): 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 1, purl 1.
DECREASING AFTER THE 3 STITCHES:
Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).
DECREASING BEFORE THE 3 STITCHES:
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the 3 edge stitches, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), work the 3 stitches as before.
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START THE PIECE HERE:

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TOP – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The body is worked in the round with circular needle, bottom up as far as the armholes. Then the front and back pieces are finished separately, back and forth with circular needle. The straps are sewn onto the back piece.

BODY:
Cast on 200-220-240-260-288-316 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm and Safran. Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm and work rib in the round (= knit 1, purl 1) for 2 cm.
Change back to circular needle size 3 mm and work the first round as follows: Work 10-10-14-14-16-16 stitches in rib (starting with knit 1), 79-89-93-103-111-125 stitches in stocking stitch, 21-21-27-27-33-33 stitches in rib (starting with purl 1), 79-89-93-103-111-125 stitches in stocking stitch, 11-11-13-13-17-17 stitches in rib (starting with purl 1).
Continue with stocking stitch and rib in the sides. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When the piece measures 4 cm in all sizes, insert 4 marker threads as described below; these threads are used when working the lace-pattern sections.
Count 10-10-14-14-16-16 ribbed stitches, 17-21-21-25-28-34 stocking stitches, insert 1 marker thread, count 45-47-51-53-55-57 stocking stitches (= mid-front), insert 1 marker thread, count 17-21-21-25-28-34 stocking stitches, 21-21-27-27-33-33 ribbed stitches, 17-21-21-25-28-34 stocking stitches, insert 1 marker thread, count 45-47-51-53-55-57 stocking stitches (= mid-back) and insert 1 marker thread. There are 17-21-21-25-28-34 stocking stitches and 11-11-13-13-17-17 ribbed stitches left after the last thread. Allow the threads to follow your work onwards.
Continue with stocking stitch and rib as before – in addition, decrease for LACE-PATTERN SECTIONS – read description above, by working A.1 over each marker thread (thread sits in the middle of A.1) = 8 stitches decreased on the round. Repeat A.1 a total of 4 times in height = 168-188-208-228-256-284 stitches.
Continue as before, without further decreases, until the piece measures 14-14-14-16-16-16 cm. Now increase for LACE-PATTERN SECTIONS – read description above, by working A.2 over each marker thread (thread sits in the middle of A.2) = 8 stitches increased on the round. Repeat A.2 a total of 4 times in height = 200-220-240-260-288-316 stitches.
Continue as before, without further increases, until the piece measures 30-31-32-33-33-34 cm.
Now cast off for the armholes and divide for the front and back pieces as follows:
Cast off 3-3-5-5-5-5 stitches, work 7-7-9-9-11-11 ribbed stitches as before, work 36-41-43-48-52-59 stitches in stocking stitch, purl 1, knit 1, 1 garter stitch, knit 2 twisted together (= 1 stitch decreased mid-front), knit 1, purl 1, work 36-41-43-48-52-59 stitches in stocking stitch, 7-7-9-9-11-11 ribbed stitches, cast off 7-7-9-9-11-11 stitches for the armhole, work 7-7-9-9-11-11 ribbed stitches, 79-89-93-103-111-125 stitches in stocking stitch, 7-7-9-9-11-11 ribbed stitches and cast off the last 4-4-4-4-6-6 stitches for the armhole. Cut the strand. The front and back pieces are finished separately.

LEFT FRONT PIECE (when garment is worn):
= 46-51-55-60-66-73 stitches.
Start mid-front from the wrong side and pick up 1 stitch in the decreased stitch and knit this loop together with the first stitch on the left needle (this is to avoid a «jump» at the bottom of the V-neck), purl 1, knit 1, then purl until there are 7-7-9-9-11-11 stitches left before the armhole, work rib as before over the next 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue back and forth like this, with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch and 6-6-8-8-10-10 ribbed stitches towards the armhole, stocking stitch, 2 ribbed stitches and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the neck.
AT THE SAME TIME, on the first row from the right side, start to decrease for the armhole and V-neck as follows:
ARMHOLE – read DECREASE TIP-1:
Decrease 1 stitch every 2nd row (each row from the right side) a total of 10-14-14-19-23-27 times.
V-NECK – read DECREASE TIP-2:
Decrease 1 stitch every 2nd row (each row from the right side) a total of 25-26-26-26-26-27 times.
After the last decrease there are 11-11-15-15-17-19 stitches left on the shoulder.
Now work rib back and forth over all stitches with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm (front piece measures approx. 3 cm more than the measurement in the sketch because the strap will be sewn to the back piece). Cast off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE (when garment is worn):
= 46-51-55-60-66-73 stitches.
Start at the armhole from the wrong side, work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, rib as before over the next 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches, purl until there are 3 stitches left before the neck, knit 1, purl 1 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue back and forth like this.
AT THE SAME TIME on the first row from the right side start to decrease for the V-neck and the armhole as follows:
V-NECK – read DECREASE TIP-2:
Decrease 1 stitch every 2nd row (each row from the right side) a total of 25-26-26-26-26-27 times.
ARMHOLE – read DECREASE TIP-1:
Decrease 1 stitch every 2nd row (each row from the right side) a total of 10-14-14-19-23-27 times.
After the last decrease there are 11-11-15-15-17-19 stitches left on the shoulder.
Now work rib back and forth over all stitches with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm. Cast off.

BACK PIECE:
= 93-103-111-121-133-147 stitches.
Start at one armhole from the wrong side and work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, rib as before over the next 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches, purl until there are 7-7-9-9-11-11 stitches left on the row, rib as before over the next 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue back and forth like this
AT THE SAME TIME on the first row from the right side begin to decrease for the armholes – read DECREASE TIP-1. Decrease 1 stitch on each side every 2nd row (each row from the right side) a total of 10-14-14-19-23-27 times on each side = 73-75-83-83-87-93 stitches.
Continue back and forth with stocking stitch, 6-6-8-8-10-10 ribbed stitches and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 43-45-47-49-51-53 cm.
Now work rib back and forth over all stitches with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side for 2 cm. Then cast off all stitches with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl. The back piece is approx. 3 cm less than the given length in the sketch.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the straps to each side of the back piece so the stitches match.

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next round knit the yarn over (leaves a hole)
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = marker thread
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (27)

country flag Monique ZIMMERMANN wrote:

A la fin, au moment de l’assemblage, vous dites de coudre les bretelles de chaque côté du dos, est ce un grafting ? Si oui, il ne faut pas rabattre les 7 mailles de chaque côté du dos pour pouvoir les assembler en grafting aux bretelles. Est ce une bonne idée ?

13.06.2024 - 22:36

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Zimmermann, vous pouvez assembler les bretelles comme dans cette vidéo ou bien effectivement laisser les mailles en attente et les assembler en grafting, la couture sera moins visible. Bon tricot!

14.06.2024 - 07:39

country flag Tina Askov wrote:

Hvordan gør jeg dette: Start midt foran fra vrangen, saml 1 maske op i masken som blev lukket af midt foran, og strik denne maske ret sammen med første maske på venstre pind

13.06.2024 - 21:37

country flag Gaubymarion wrote:

Taille M Je ne comprends pas comment faire le point ajouré \r\nOn nous dit de rabattre 8 mailles sur chaque fil marqueur mais en suivant le diagramme on doit faire 2 jetés pour faire le point ajouré.\r\nOn a donc pas 188mailles mais 196...

10.06.2024 - 12:45

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Gauby, au 1er rang de A.1 vous diminuez 2 mailles en tricotant ainsi: *glissez 1 m à l'end, 1 m end, passez la m glissée par-dessus la m tricotée (= 1 dim), 1 jeté (on va compenser la diminution), glissez 1 m à l'end, 1 m end, passez la m glissée par-dessus la m tricotée (= 1 dim), 2 m ens à l'end (1 diminution), 1 jeté (on compense 1 diminution), 2 m ens à l'end (= 1 dim)*, on va donc diminuer 4 m mais augmenter de 2 m = 2 m en moins dans chaque A.1, on tricote 4 fois A.1, on va donc diminuer 4 x 2 = 8 diminutions à chaque A.1 en hauteur x 4 = 32 diminutions au total, soit 220-32=188 mailles. Bon tricot!

10.06.2024 - 13:01

country flag Aurore wrote:

En taille 2, Quand on arrive aux diminutions encolure et emmanchures du devant, est ce qu’il faut faire 14 diminutions côté encolure et côté emmanchures, puis 12 diminutions seulement côté encolure (pour avoir les 26 diminutions de l’encolure) ? Car en faisant ainsi il me reste trop de mailles pour faire l’épaule. Où est ce qu’il faut diminuer des deux côtés jusqu’à ce qu’il reste 11 mailles pour l’épaule ? Merci !

08.06.2024 - 18:30

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Aurore, vous diminuez 14 fois 1 m pour l'encolure et 26 fois 1 m pour l'emmanchure soit 51-14-26=11 m; pour le devant gauche, vous diminuez pour l'emmanchure en début de rang sur l'endroit et en fin de rang sur l'endroit pour l'encolure; pour le devant gauche, vous diminuez en début de rang sur l'endroit pour l'encolure et en fin de rang sur l'endroit pour l'emmanchure. Bon tricot!

10.06.2024 - 07:59

country flag Nicky Op De Weegh wrote:

Zijn er ook patronen die met een gewone breinaald (niet rondbreinaald) gebreid worden, en wel met naalden nr 2,5 / 3?

03.06.2024 - 14:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Nicky,

Veel patronen worden met de rondbreinaalden gebreid, maar er zijn ook patronen die met rechte naalden worden gebreid. Dit zijn vaak de wat oudere patronen. Voor de naalddikte kun je filteren op de bijpassende stekenverhouding.

Verder hebben we een instructie gemaakt om een patroon aan te passen om op rechte naalden te breien. Deze vind je hier. Deze instructie is niet voor alle patronen geschikt, maar misschien kun je hier toch wat mee.

03.06.2024 - 20:29

country flag Monica Palmelid wrote:

Hej Hur stickar jag insnitten?

11.04.2024 - 15:05

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Monica. Det felles og økes til innsnitt ved merketrådene på forstykket og bakstykket slik diagram A.1 og A.2 viser. Se diagrammene og les forklaringene over diagrammene. mvh DROPS Deign

15.04.2024 - 10:43

country flag Corina Avram wrote:

Hi! I am a bit stuck. How do I insert the marker threads? I see in the lesson "how to use a MT between 2 sts" that before and after each MT is an increase. Or I just insert a plain sts markers and carry them along the diagrams. I don;t know how to proceed. Thanks in advance

07.03.2024 - 17:14

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Corina, a marker thread is usually used when you also using markers, to differentiate where you need to measure from and where you need to make decreases/ increases. You just put a longer piece of leftover thread between the stitches (ideally in contrasting colors to what you are knitting with) and every few rows put it from one side to the other, kind of weaving it. If you do this regurarly, it helps track your row-numbers too. After finishing, you can easily take it out. I hope this helps. Happy Knitting.

07.03.2024 - 22:30

country flag Bodil wrote:

Strikker denne toppen i str. M. Skal begynne å felle til innsnitt. Skjønner ikke helt hvor jeg skal begynne å felle de første 8 maskene. Omgangen starter jo midt i første vrangbord i siden. Har satt merketrådene der de skal være. Håper på raskt svar, da jeg er ivrig på å komme videre 😊

25.08.2023 - 21:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Bodil. Du strikker halve vrangborden i den ene siden, da er det 21 masker til 1. merketråd/ 1. innsnitt. Strikk 17 masker glattstrikk, deretter strikker du etter A.1 (1. innsnitt). Nå vil merketrådene sitte midt i A.1. Strikk videre til neste merketråd, (merketrådene skal sitte midt i A.1 også til innsnitt 2, 3 og 4). På 1. omgang med innsnitt har du felt 8 ganger (2 ganger på hver side av merketrådene). mvh DROPS Design

04.09.2023 - 14:16

country flag Anja wrote:

Ik moet nu het linkervoorpand gaan breien. Ik snap niet hoe ik moet beginnen . Kun je mij meer uitleg geven?

24.06.2023 - 17:41

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Anja,

Je begint midden voor en aan de verkeerde kant te breien. De steken van het achterpand en het rechter voorpand kom je verder niet aan. Eventueel zou je die ook even op een hulpdraad kunnen zetten. Je neemt eerst 1 steek op in de geminderde steek midden voor en deze brei je dan gelijk samen met de eerste steek op de linker naald. Dan volg je het patroon verder volgens de beschrijving.

25.06.2023 - 17:58

country flag Lianne wrote:

Hallo, ik kom er niet helemaal uit nu ik het linker en rechter voorpand apart moet breien. Moet ik nu alle steken op een hulpdraad zetten? Of hoe kom ik van het armsgat naar de mindering in het midden van de v hals?

22.06.2023 - 21:04