DROPS / 222 / 40

Bright Prairie by DROPS Design

Crocheted jumper in DROPS Cotton Merino. The piece is worked with textured pattern and puffed sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.

  • Bright Prairie / DROPS 222-40 - Crocheted jumper in DROPS Cotton Merino. The piece is worked with textured pattern and puffed sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Bright Prairie / DROPS 222-40 - Crocheted jumper in DROPS Cotton Merino. The piece is worked with textured pattern and puffed sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Bright Prairie / DROPS 222-40 - Crocheted jumper in DROPS Cotton Merino. The piece is worked with textured pattern and puffed sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS Design: Pattern no cm-135
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
500-550-600-650-700-800 g colour 01, off white

CROCHET TENSION:
17 treble crochets in width and 9 rows in height = 10 cm x 10 cm.
CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 MM.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller hook size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 3.40 £ /50g
DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour 3.40 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 34.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.7.

CROCHET INFORMATION:
At the beginning of each row of double crochets, start with 1 chain stitch (does not replace the first double crochet).
At the beginning of each row of treble crochets, start with 3 chain stitches (do not replace the first treble crochet). Finish the row with 1 treble crochet in the 3rd chain stitch; this treble crochet makes the pattern symmetrical on both sides and is skipped on the next row.


CHAIN STITCH:
If you work outermost on the hook the chain stitch will often be too tight; 1 chain stitch should be as long as 1 double/treble crochet is wide.

DECREASE TIP-1:
Decrease 1 treble crochet by working 2 treble crochets together as follows:
Work 1 treble crochet in the first stitch, but wait with the last yarn over and pull through (= 2 loops on the hook), work 1 treble crochet in the next stitch and pull the last yarn over through all 3 loops on the hook (= 1 treble crochet decreased).

DECREASE TIP-2 (for decrease for arm holes):
Always decrease by crocheting 2 and 2 treble crochets together - remember DECREASE TIP-1.
Due to this on 3rd and 4th row in A.1; crochet 1 treble crochet in each treble crochet from round below over the stitches which don’t fit in a whole repeat of A.1 (1 report A.1 = 3 stitches in width).

DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches (i.e. 156 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 6) = 26. In this example, work each 25th and 26th stitch together. When increasing, work 2 stitches in each 26th stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round, bottom up. The piece is turned after each round and is worked back and forth to maintain the textured pattern. After dividing for the armholes, the piece is continued back and forth. The sleeves are worked back and forth and sewn together. A decorative neck-edge is worked to finish.

JUMPER:
Work 156-168-180-192-216-240 chain stitches – read CHAIN STITCH, with hook size 4 mm and Cotton Merino. Form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch. Work 1 treble crochet in each chain stitch; the first treble crochet is replaced by 3 chain stitches - read CROCHET INFORMATION = 156-168-180-192-216-240 stitches. Continue in the round according to A.1. Continue working in the round, but turning after each round so you work both from the right and from the wrong side. This is done to maintain the pattern throughout the jumper. A.2 shows how the rounds start and finish. When the piece measures approx. 4-5-6-7-8-9 cm – adjust so the next round is round 1, 5 or 6 in A.1, decrease 6 treble crochets evenly spaced - read DECREASE TIP and DECREASE/INCREASE TIP. Decrease like this every time you work rounds 1, 5 and 6 a total of 6 times = 120-132-144-156-180-204 stitches. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!

Continue working until the piece measures approx. 18-19-20-21-22-23 cm – adjust so that the next round is round 1, 5 or 6, in A.1. Increase 6 treble crochets evenly on the next round by working 2 treble crochets in 1 stitch. Increase like this each time rounds 1 and 5 are worked a total of 4 times = 144-156-168-180-204-228 stitches. Continue the pattern until the piece measures approx. 32-33-34-35-36-37 cm – adjust so the next round is round 1, 5 or 6, and divide the piece for the front and back pieces, inserting marker threads as follows: Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round, skip the next 72-78-84-90-102-114 stitches insert the other marker thread. There are 72-78-84-90-102-114 stitches left after the second marker thread.
Front and back pieces are finished separately, working back and forth – remember CROCHET INFORMATION.

FRONT PIECE:
Work slip stitches over the first 4-5-4-5-6-7 stitches, then work until there are 4-5-4-5-6-7 stitches left before the second marker thread, turn. On next row start decrease for arm holes - read DECREASE TIP-2. Work the 4 outermost stitches in each side together 2 and 2. Repeat this decrease each row 0-0-1-1-2-3 more times. On the next row work the 2 outermost stitches together and repeat this decrease every row 4-4-4-5-6-7 more times.
After all the decreases there are 50-54-58-60-64-68 stitches.
When the piece measures 40-41-43-44-46-47 cm, finish each shoulder separately - adjust so that the next row is worked from right side. Now finish piece by working 1 treble crochet in each treble crochet, no longer working pattern according to A.1.

SHOULDER:
Work treble crochets over the first 15-17-19-20-21-22 stitches from the right side, turn and work the first 4 stitches together 2 and 2 for the neck, then work to the end of the row. Turn and work until there are 4 stitches left and work these stitches together 2 and 2, turn. Work the first 2 stitches together and work to the end of the row, turn. Work until there are 2 stitches left and work these 2 stitches together, turn. Work the first 2 stitches together and work to the end of the row = 8-10-12-13-14-15 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm, cut the strand.
Work the other shoulder in the same way, but reversed (i.e. start from the right side and the decreases from the neck are worked at the end of rows from the wrong side and at the beginning of rows from the right side).

BACK PIECE:
As the front piece.

SLEEVES:
Work 44-46-48-50-52-54 chain stitches – remember CHAIN STITCH, with hook size 4 mm and Cotton Merino.
Turn and work back and forth as follows:
ROW 1: Work 3 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet in each chain stitch = 44-46-48-50-52-54 treble crochets.
ROWS 2- 4: Work 1 treble crochet in each treble crochet.
Now increase as follows: Work 2 treble crochets in the first treble crochet, * 1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet in the next treble crochet *, work from *-* until there is 1 treble crochet left, work 2 treble crochets in the last treble crochet = 88-92-96-100-104-108 stitches.
Now work pattern as follows:
A.3 over the first treble crochet, A.4 until there is 1 treble crochet left, A.5 over the last treble crochet. Continue back and forth like this.
When the diagrams have been completed, repeat the last 2 rows until the piece measures 43-42-40-41-38-38 cm – adjust so the next row is from the right side!
Now work the sleeve cap as follows:
Work from the row with an arrow in A.6, (i.e. work slip stitches over the first 6 stitches), continue with the last stitch in A.6, continue with pattern until there are 4 treble-crochet groups left, then work as shown in the row with an arrow in A.7. There are 6 stitches left at the end of the row. Continue back and forth with A.6, A.7 and pattern as before over the middle stitches. When the diagrams have been completed in height, repeat the last 2 rows 2-2-3-3-4-4 more times = 8-8-10-10-12-12 rows with decreases on each side. The next row is worked as follows:
Work 3 chain stitches, * 2 chain stitches, skip the next treble crochet, work 1 treble crochet around the next chain stitch/chain-space *, work from *-* to the end of the row. Cut and fasten the strand.
Work the sleeve seam from the wrong side as follows: Fasten the strand with 1 slip stitch at the bottom of the sleeve and work through both layers, * 2 chain stitches, skip 1 cm, 1 double crochet *, work from *-* up to the beginning of the sleeve cap. Cut and fasten the strand. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams edge to edge so the seam is flat. Sew in the sleeves.

DECORATIVE EDGE:
Work around the neck with hook size 4 mm and Cotton Merino as follows: 1 double crochet, * 3 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet in the 3rd chain stitch from the hook, skip 1 cm, 1 double crochet *. Work from *-* to the end of the round and work 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet at the beginning of the round.

Diagram

symbols = 1 chain stitch - if you work outermost on the hook the chain stitch will often be too tight; 1 chain stitch should be as long as 1 treble crochet is wide.
symbols = 1 treble crochet in stitch below
symbols = 1 treble crochet between 2 stitches below
symbols = 1 treble crochet around chain stitch
symbols = this row has already been worked; it shows how the next row is worked into the stitches
symbols = 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round
symbols = 3 chain stitches at beginning of round/row
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 222-40) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (10)

country flag Cécile 28.05.2021 - 19:31:

Bonjour, je fais le L et je ne comprends pas le rythme des diminutions emmanchures. J'ai déjà diminué2x2 mailles du bord de chaque côté à 2 rangs consecutifs. Puis 1x2 de chque côté et je dois encore faire 1x2 de chaque côté 4 fois tous les 4 rangs...ca fait presque 16 rangs, presque 15 cm ? Ça fait beaucoup non ? Qu'est ce que je ne comprends pas ? Je vous remercie encore une fois de votre aide.

user icon DROPS Design 31.05.2021 kl. 07:16:

Bonjour Cécile, effectivement, ces diminutions doivent se faire encore 4 fois (en L) tous les rangs, pas tous les 4 rangs, la correction a été faite. Bonne continuation!

country flag Cécile 27.05.2021 - 23:22:

Bonjour, je fais le L et je ne comprends pas comment on fait les diminutions des emmanchures et au rang 3 et 4 du motif... "Une bride dans chaque bride du tour précédent qui ne peuvent se crocheter en un motif complet de A2"? Pouvez vous m'expliquer s'il vous plaît ? A2 c'est bien le schéma qui indique comment commencer et finir les rangs ? Je vous remercie de votre aide.

user icon DROPS Design 28.05.2021 kl. 08:19:

Bonjour Cécile et merci pour votre retour, il fallait lire "A.1", correction faite. Aux rangs 3 et 4 deA.1 on crochète sur 3 m: sauter 1 m, crocheter 1 b, 1 ml, 1 b dans la m suivante, sauter 1 m; si vous avez diminué 1 de ces 3 m, crochetez 1 b dans les 2 mailles restantes, si vous avez diminué 2 de ces m, crochetez 1 b dans la m restante (car il n'y a pas assez de place pour crocheter ce motif complet). Bon crochet!

country flag Cécile 23.05.2021 - 18:09:

Bonjour, je fais le L, je commence les emmanchures mais ne comprends pas comment faire les diminutions-2au au début de rang alors que la première bride est toujours remplacée par 3 mailles en l'air? Je vous remercie de votre aide.

user icon DROPS Design 25.05.2021 kl. 08:00:

Bonjour Cécile, en début de rang, crochetez 2 mailles en l'air (au lieu de 3), crochetez la bride suivante et au dernier jeté, écouler les 3 boucles sur le crochet - au rang suivant, crochetez bien dans cette bride (et pas dans le haut des 2 mailles en l'air). Bon crochet!

country flag Eveline 11.05.2021 - 14:00:

Aanpassing op mijn vraag : 5 x 2 steken samen haken iedere 4 toer.

country flag Eveline Meijer 11.05.2021 - 13:57:

Wordt aangegeven dat je bij 35 cm met de mindering moet beginnen voor de armsgaten de eerst 5 steken niet mee haken en dan 1 x 4 steken minderen en dan in mijn maat 5 x 2 steken samen haken en zou je volgens het patroon door moeten haken tot 44 cm maar met de mindering kom ik op 54 cm uit. Doe ik wat verkeerd of is er een fout in het patroon.

country flag Gloria 25.04.2021 - 22:33:

Las disminuciones de las dudas no las entiendo bien. Para la talla xs dice hacer una disminución cada 4 vueltas, 4 veces, pero esto sería un total de 16 filas, sería una sisa demasiado larga. A parte dice q al final se tiene un total de 50 puntos como si se hubieran hecho 11 disminuciones por cada lado, y yo solo cuento 7 disminuciones por lado. Podríais aclarármelo? Gracias

user icon DROPS Design 09.05.2021 kl. 20:31:

Hola Gloria, la sisa mide 18 cm, que son unas 16 filas de trabajo, por lo que la primera parte sería correcta. En cuanto a la segunda parte, no olvidar que la primera disminución es 4 puntos seguidos a cada lado. Después se disminuyen 2 puntos a cada lado, trabajando los 4 puntos más externos juntos de 2 en 2. Después se disminuyen 5 veces 1 punto a cada lado. Eso son igual a 50 puntos, partiendo de 72.

country flag Claudia Crick 16.03.2021 - 20:03:

Leuk eindelijk een gehaakte versie van een pofmouw.

country flag Britt H Hamborg 07.03.2021 - 18:55:

Nydelig og fantastisk. Flott at den er heklet.

country flag Ana Mafalda Faria 07.01.2021 - 19:45:

Crochet! Not knitting, rigth?

country flag Christine REFFET 07.01.2021 - 18:50:

Middle Age

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