DROPS / 218 / 23

Leaf Diversion by DROPS Design

Knitted vest and head band in DROPS Nord and DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted top down with increase for saddle shoulder and lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL

  • Leaf Diversion / DROPS 218-23 - Knitted vest and head band in DROPS Nord and DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted top down with increase for saddle shoulder and lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL
  • Leaf Diversion / DROPS 218-23 - Knitted vest and head band in DROPS Nord and DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted top down with increase for saddle shoulder and lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL
  • Leaf Diversion / DROPS 218-23 - Knitted vest and head band in DROPS Nord and DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted top down with increase for saddle shoulder and lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL
  • Leaf Diversion / DROPS 218-23 - Knitted vest and head band in DROPS Nord and DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted top down with increase for saddle shoulder and lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL
DROPS design: Pattern no-040
Yarn group A + A or C
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FOR THE ENTIRE SET:

SIZE:
S/M - L/XL - XXL/XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS NORD from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150-200-200 g colour 07, light beige
and use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
75-75-75 g colour 20, light beige

VEST:

SIZE:
S/M - L/XL - XXL/XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS NORD from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150-150-200 g colour 07, light beige
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-50-75 g colour 20, light beige

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows vertically in stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm : Length 60 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm: Length 40 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.

DROPS BUTTON, Marble NR 629: 2 pieces for all sizes

HEAD BAND:

SIZE:
One-size
Measurements: Width: Approx. 14 cm Length: approx. 49 cm - or desired length.
Head circumference: 54/56 cm - or desired length

MATERIALS:
DROPS NORD from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50 g colour 07, light beige
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
25 g colour 20, light beige

KNITTING TENSION:
18 stitches in width and 23 rows vertically in stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 mm: Length 40 or 60 cm.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

45% Alpaca, 30% Polyamide, 25% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
DROPS Nord uni colour DROPS Nord uni colour 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Nord mix DROPS Nord mix 2.40 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order

75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 3.80 £ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 3.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 3.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.30£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
Vest: See diagrams A.1 to A.3.
Head band: See diagram A.4.
Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1 (applies to saddle shoulder increase):
BEFORE MARKER:
The new stitch will be twisted, leaning towards the right.
Use left needle to pick up strand between 2 stitches from the round below, pick up strand from behind and knit stitch in front loop.
AFTER MARKER:
The new stitch will be twisted, leaning towards the left.
Use left needle to pick up strand between 2 stitches from the round below, pick up strand from the front and knit stitch in back loop.

INCREASE TIP-2 (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, count the stitches to be increased (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide this number by stitches of increases to be done (e.g. 4) = 2.5. 
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately every other and 3rd stitch. On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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VEST - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Piece is worked top down, and worked in the round until shoulder increases are done. Then work front and back piece back and forth separately.

VEST:
Cast on 128-136-144 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm with 1 strand Nord and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 2/purl 2) in the round for 13 cm. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm.
Now work as follows:
Insert 1st marker at beginning of round (= before 2 knit stitches), work rib as before over the first 26-30-34 stitches, insert 2nd marker here, work A.1 over the next 38-38-38 stitches (= 2 stitches decreased), insert 3rd marker here, work rib as before over the next 26-30-34 stitches, insert 4th marker here, work A.1 over the last 38-38-38 stitches (= 2 stitches decreased) = 124-132-140 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!

SADDLE SHOULDER INCREASE:
Now work last round in A.1 and work rib as before over the 26-30-34 stitches on each shoulder. AT THE SAME TIME on first round increase 4 stitches on round: Increase BEFORE 1st and 3rd marker, and AFTER 2nd and 4th marker – read INCREASE TIP-1. Increases are only on front piece and back piece and number of
shoulder stitches remains the same. Increase like this every round 18-20-22 times in total. Work the increased stitches from the first 10-12-14 rounds in stocking stitch, then work the increased stitches from the next 8 rounds in pattern as follows: Purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2.
When A.1 is finished vertically, work A.2 over A.1 and rib as before over the 26-30-34 stitches on each shoulder.
When all increases are done, there are 196-212-228 stitches on round, continue with pattern as before.
The next time the 1st, 3rd, 5th or 7th round in A.2 is worked; work as follows:
Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl over the first 26-30-34 stitches, work pattern as before over the next 72-76-80 stitches before slipping them on 1 stitch holder (= front piece), cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl over the next 26-30-34 stitches, work pattern as before over the last 72-76-80 stitches (= back piece).

BACK PIECE:
Continue back and forth with pattern as before over the 72-76-80 stitches. I.e. Work A.2 over the middle 36-36-36 stitches and work knit over knit and purl over purl over the remaining stitches. When piece measures 39-42-45 cm from transition between A.1 in the neck and A.2 – adjust to finish after a whole repetition vertically, work next row from right side as follows: Work as before over the first 8-8-8 stitches, knit the next 10-12-14 stitches while increasing 4-2-4 stitches evenly – read INCREASE TIP-2, work A.3 over A.2 (= 2 stitches increased), knit the next 10-12-14 stitches while increasing 4-2-4 stitches evenly, work the last 8-8-8 stitches as before = 82-82-90 stitches. Work 1 row in pattern (work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes). Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Now work rib from right side as follows: Work (knit 2/purl 2) over the first 20-20-24 stitches, knit 2, continue with knit over knit and purl over purl over the next 38-38-38 stitches, work (knit 2/purl 2) over the next 20-20-24 stitches, knit 2. Continue back and forth like this until rib has been worked for 2 cm. Cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl.

FRONT PIECE:
Work as on back piece.

ASSEMBLY:
Knit a band with buttonhole in each side as follows: Cast on 7 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm with 1 strand Nord and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work in garter stitch back and forth. When 4 ridges have been worked, decrease for buttonhole follows: Knit 2, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), make 1 yarn over, knit 3. On next row knit yarn over. continue back and forth in garter stitch until band measures approx. 16 to 28 cm – or desired length (ribbon can be worked longer after button is attached, to make it easier to work until correct length).
Fasten button on right side of back piece, approx. 14 cm up from bottom edge and between 5th and 6th stitch from edge. Then try the vest on and adjust length of band by working to desired length. Fasten the other end of band on on the inside of front piece approx. 14 cm (i.e. in a row) with button.
Repeat in the other side.

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HEAD BAND:
Work head band back and forth on circular needle.

HEAD BAND:
Cast on 36 stitches on circular needle size 4.5 mm with 1 strand Nord + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work pattern A.4 back and forth. Tighten the yarn a little at the beginning of every row to avoid a loose edge stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Work like this until piece measures 49 cm or desired length - adjust to finish after a whole repetition vertically. Cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Cut the yarn but leave some yarn for assembly. Sew seam with grafting/kitchener stitches inside cast-on and cast-off edge.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 22.10.2020
Correction:
BACK PIECE:
Continue back and forth with pattern as before over the 72-76-80 stitches. I.e. Work A.2 over the middle 36-36-36 stitches and...

Diagram

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next round knit yarn over to make a hole. When working back and forth, purl yarn over from wrong side (to make holes)
symbols = knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased)
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 1 stitch decreased)
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On next row purl yarn over twisted to avoid holes
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 218-23) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (13)

country flag Cecilia Ankarstrand 27.02.2021 - 10:44:

Är det möjligt att någon vill göra ett mönster för denna som en väst? Älskar denna, har gjort 2st nu o vinter. Perfekt under jackor, men skulle önska få till ärmhålet då det kan bli en slipover/ väst. Underbar tack!

country flag Yvonne Schüler-Mudra 16.02.2021 - 10:39:

Auweia, hab ich dann die Anleitung in diesem Abschnitt komplett falsch verstanden? Ich hab wie gesagt die ersten 10 Runden die Zunahmen glatt re gestrickt (also 40 MA gl re) und hab somit bis dahin insgesamt 164 Ma auf der Nadel. Hätte ich schon gleichzeitig mit den Zunahmen mit A. 2 beginnen müssen? Sorry, ich stricke das erst mal so komplex und nach so einer Anleitung und erst recht von oben nach unten..

country flag Yvonne 16.02.2021 - 09:45:

Hallo, ich stricke seit 2 Tagen an diesem Overshirt und bin jetzt bei dem Absatz mit den Sattelschultern. Die ersten 10 Teihen der Zunahmen habe ich, wie in der Anleitung beschrieben, glatt rechts gestrickt und somit ergeben sich gleichmäßig verteilt, 4 glatt rechts gestrickte Dreiecke. Bei den nächsten 8 Reihen der Zunahmen soll dann darunter das Rippmuster gestrickt werden. Habe ich das richtig verstanden? Ist auf den Bildern so aber nicht zu erkennen.

user icon DROPS Design 16.02.2021 kl. 09:50:

Liebe Yvonne, die ersten 10 Zunahmen werden glatt rechts gestrickt aber die letzten 8 werden im Bündchen gestrickt, damit diese Maschen dann die "Rand-Maschen" für Vorder- bzw Rückenteil sind - schauen Sie das letzte Foto, vielleicht kann es Ihnen helfen?

country flag Lydia Vedder 25.01.2021 - 20:34:

When you say back and forth does this mean you are doing every other row backwards? I can seam to grasp how this back and forth works. Thank you in advance.

user icon DROPS Design 26.01.2021 kl. 08:45:

Dear Mrs Vedder, working back and forth means working flat, alternately from right side and from wrong side - just as shown in this video. Happy knitting!

country flag Birgitta Eriksson 26.12.2020 - 17:32:

Jag ska sticka denna väst i färg Nord nr19 vilken färg ska jag ha på Kid Silk då?

user icon DROPS Design 05.01.2021 kl. 12:19:

Hej Birgitta. Då tycker jag att nummer 19 mörk grön passar bäst. Mvh DROPS Design

country flag Tula Strand 27.11.2020 - 10:41:

Kan jeg bruker garngruppe C? Isåfall kan air brukes og hvor mange gram?

user icon DROPS Design 27.11.2020 kl. 13:32:

Hej Tula. Ja du kan använda ett garn ut garngrupp C till detta mönster (som t.ex. DROPS Air). Här kan du läsa mer om hur du gör för att beräkna garnforbruk. Mvh DROPS Design

country flag Eji 16.11.2020 - 05:30:

Could i ask for this pattern's headband if i am using crochet? Need your help

user icon DROPS Design 16.11.2020 kl. 09:25:

Dear Eji, we are unfortunately not able to adjust each our patterns to each individual request. You are welcome to contact your DROPS store for any individual assistance. Happy crocheting!

country flag Monica 22.10.2020 - 12:20:

Grazie come sempre per la vostra disponibilità. In merito all'ultima domanda e risposta quindi a cose (2rov e 2 dr) devo lavorare 8 punti non 8 giri ... Scusate ma la spiegazione così com'è in italiano non è chiara perchè se lavoro 8 giri a coste si intendono tutti gli aumenti e non solo gli ultimi 8 punti. Comunque grazie per l'aiuto

user icon DROPS Design 22.10.2020 kl. 14:02:

Buongiorno Monica. Lavora a coste 8 m e sono le 8 m che aumenta negli ultimi 8 giri con aumenti. Man mano che aumenta 1 di queste maglie, la lavora a coste. Abbiamo modificato un po' il testo. Buon lavoro!

country flag Monica 22.10.2020 - 11:12:

Grazie per le risposte. Ma allora questa spiegazione è sbagliata "Aumentare in questo modo su ogni giro 18-20-22 volte in totale. Lavorare gli aumenti dei primi 10-12-14 giri a maglia rasata, poi lavorare gli aumenti degli 8 giri successivi come segue: 2 maglie rovescio, 2 maglie diritto, 2 maglie rovescio, 2 maglie diritto." Non sono 8 giri ma 8 punti. Mi confermate? Grazie mille

user icon DROPS Design 22.10.2020 kl. 12:13:

Buongiorno Monica. P.es per la taglia S, aumenta le prime 10 volte e lavora questi aumenti a maglia rasata. L'aumento successivo (primo aumento degli ultimi 8), lavora la maglia aumentata a rovescio; l'aumento successivo, lavora la maglia aumentata a rov; l'aumento successivo, lavora la maglia aumentata a dir e così via. Terminati gli 8 aumenti, avrà le coste 2 m rov / 2 m dir. L'ultima foto a destra può esserle di aiuto. Buon lavoro!

country flag Monica 21.10.2020 - 22:08:

Scusate ma come mai nella foto il davanti e il dietro hanno la maglia rasata nei bordi e invece seguendo le istruzioni mi trovo con la maglia a coste?

user icon DROPS Design 22.10.2020 kl. 10:39:

Buongiorno Monica. Le prime e le ultime 8 maglie del davanti / dietro sono lavorate a coste 2 maglie diritto / 2 maglie rovescio. Deve lavorare le coste in modo che le prime 2 e le ultime 2 maglie del ferro siano maglie lavorate a diritto. Buon lavoro!

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