DROPS / 212 / 12

Late Nights Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with raglan in DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. Piece is knitted with lace pattern. Size XS–XXL.

DROPS design: Pattern as-128
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
XS - S - M - L - XL – XXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
100-125-125-150-150-175 g colour 22, pale rust

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm : Length 40 and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm : Length 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL-BUTTON, round (light pink), NO: 618: 6-6-6-7-7-7 pieces

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 2.60 £ /25g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour 2.60 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1a until A.1c).

DECREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 184 stitches), minus bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 23) = 7.5. 
In this example decrease by knitting alternately every 6th and 7th stitch and every 7th and 8th stitch together.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. 

RAGLAN:
All decreases are done from the right side!
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread in every transition between sleeves and body (= 8 stitches decreased) as follows: Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, knit 2 together, marker thread is here, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

BUTTONHOLES (bottom up):
Decrease for buttonholes on right band. 1 BUTTONHOLE = knit third and fourth stitch from edge together and make 1 yarn over. On next row knit yarn over = hole.
Decrease for buttonholes when piece measures:
XS: 5, 12½, 20, 27½, 35 and 42½ cm
S: 5, 12½, 20, 27½, 35 and 42½ cm
M: 4, 12, 20, 28, 36 and 44 cm
L: 4, 11, 18, 25, 32, 39 and 46 cm
XL: 3, 10½, 18, 25½, 33, 40½, and 48 cm
XXL: 5, 12½, 20, 27½, 35, 42½ and 50 cm

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work body back and forth from mid front on circular needle size, bottom up, up to armholes. Then work the sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle up to armholes. Then slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body. Worked yoke and neck edge back and forth from mid front.

BODY:
Cast on 184-208-216-244-264-284 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 4 mm with Brushed Alpaca Silk. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work rib as follows: 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above - * knit 2, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until 7 stitches remain, knit 2, 5 band stitches on needle in garter stitch. Continue rib like this for 3 cm – remember BUTTONHOLES on right band – read explanation above.
When rib is done, knit 1 row from right side while at the same time decreasing 23-29-31-35-37-39 stitches evenly - read DECREASE TIP = 161-179-185-209-227-245 stitches. Purl 1 row from wrong side (work bands in garter stitches). Switch to circular needle size 5 mm.
Now work pattern as follows – choose diagram for your size: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1a over the first 6 stitches, A.1b until 12 stitches remain on needle (= 23-26-27-31-34-37 repetitions in total of 6 stitches), A.1c over next 7 stitches, 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When 1 row remains in A.1a to A.1c, piece measures approx. 23 cm.
Work next row from wrong side as follows: Work the first 37-43-43-48-54-60 stitches (= left front piece), cast off the next 9-9-9-11-11-11 stitches for armhole, work the next 69-75-81-91-97-103 stitches (= back piece), cast off the next 9-9-9-11-11-11 stitches for armhole, work the remaining 37-43-43-48-54-60 stitches (= right front piece). There are now 143-161-167-187-205-223 stitches on needle. Cut the yarn. Put piece aside and work the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 52-56-56-64-64-68 stitches on double pointed needles size 4 mm with Brushed Alpaca Silk. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 2/purl 2) in the round for 3 cm. Knit 1 round while decreasing 10-8-8-10-10-8 stitches evenly = 42-48-48-54-54-60 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 5 mm. Insert a marker thread at beginning of round (= mid under sleeve).
Now pattern A.1b - choose diagram for your size, in the round (= 7-8-8-9-9-10 repetitions of 6 stitches). When A.1b has been worked vertically, sleeve measures approx. 23 cm.
Now work as many repetitions with lace pattern A.3 there is room for on round - Adjust so that star in A.2 and A.3 is worked over star in A.1b! Work the remaining stitches on round in stocking stitch. AT THE SAME TIME on first round begin increase under sleeve- read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this approx. every 3-4-3-2-1-1 cm 6-5-6-7-10-10 times in total = 54-58-60-68-74-80 stitches. When diagrams have been worked vertically, continue with stocking stitch until finished measurements. When sleeve measures 41-43-41-40-38-37 cm, cast off 9-9-9-11-11-11 stitches under sleeve (cast off 5-5-5-6-6-6 stitches before marker thread and 4-4-4-5-5-5 stitches after marker thread) = 45-49-51-57-63-69 stitches for sleeve. Put piece aside and knit the other sleeve the same way.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were cast off = 233-259-269-301-331-361 stitches. Now insert 4 marker threads in the piece. Insert marker threads 2-0-2-2-0-2 stitches in on front pieces and back piece (measured from transition between body and sleeves). I.e. in size S and XL insert marker threads in transition between body and sleeves. And in size XS, M, L, XXL insert marker threads so that 2 stitches in each side of body are on the sleeves.
Now work pattern as follows:
Work right front piece as follows:
5 band stitches in garter stitch, work 6-3-0-6-3-6 stitches in stocking stitch, A.2 (= 4 stitches), A.3 over the next 12-24-24-24-36-36 stitches (= 1-2-2-2-3-3 repetitions of 12 stitches), A.4 over the next 3 stitches, work 5-4-5-4-3-4 stitches in stocking stitch, marker thread is here.
Work right sleeve as follows:
Work in stocking stitch over the next 49-49-55-61-63-73 stitches (= right sleeve), marker thread is here.
Work back piece as follows:
work 5-4-5-4-3-4 stitches in stocking stitch, A.2 (= 4 stitches), A.3 over the next 48-60-60-72-84-84 stitches (= 4-5-5-6-7-7 repetitions of 12 stitches), A.4 (= 3 stitches), work 5-4-5-4-3-4 stitches in stocking stitch, marker thread is here.
Work left sleeve as follows:
Work in stocking stitch over the next 49-49-55-61-63-73 stitches, marker thread is here.
Work left front piece:
Work 5-4-5-4-3-4 stitches in stocking stitch, A.2 over the next 4 stitches, A.3 over the next 12-24-24-24-36-36 stitches (= 1-2-2-2-3-3 repetitions of 12 stitches), A.4 over the next 3 stitches, work 6-3-0-6-3-6 stitches in stocking stitch, 5 band stitches in garter stitch.

Continue back and forth like this. When yoke measures 3-2-2-1-2-2 cm, begin decrease for RAGLAN – read explanation above. Decrease like this on every other row 18-19-21-24-25-28 times in total = 89-107-101-109-131-137 stitches. When A.2 to A.4 have been worked 1 time vertically, continue with stocking stitch until finished measurements. The piece measures approx. 19-19-21-23-25-27 cm from where the body and sleeves were placed together. Now work the neck as described below.

NECK EDGE:
Knit 1 row from right side while decreasing 5-19-9-13-31-37 stitches evenly = 84-88-92-96-100-100 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Work rib as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until 7 stitches remain on needle, knit 2, 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue rib like this for 3 cm. Cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Jacket measures approx. 46-46-48-50-52-54 cm from shoulder and down.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew the buttons on to left band.

Diagram

= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row purl yarn over to make hole
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
= stitch with star in diagram A.2 and A.3 should fit stitch with star in A.1a to A.1c (only applies to A.1b when knitting sleeves)
= applies to sleeves: To make the pattern fit on rounds with arrow, begin round 1 stitch before marker thread mid under sleeve, i.e. 1 stitch to the right of marker thread. Begin round when 1 stitch remains on round before the one with arrow




Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 212-12) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (33)

Kristine Annette Fröberg 01.07.2020 - 22:05:

Hej, jag har upptäckt ett fel i diagrammet för stl xs - xxl. På rad 3 måste sista maskorna vara en hoptagning annars stämmer inte maskantalet och mönstret blir fel efter det.

Catherine 01.07.2020 - 08:26:

Bonjour, très joli modèle, très plaisant à tricoter. Attention toutefois, pour les tailles XS M L XXL, en A1c, pour les rangs 3, 11, 19 et 31 il faut terminer par 1 m glissée, 1m endroit, passer la m glissée sur la m endroit, 1m endroit. Sinon on se retrouve avec une augmentation et le compte n'est plus bon pour la suite. Bon tricot à tou(te)s !

DROPS Design 01.07.2020 kl. 09:02:

Bonjour Catherine, aux rangs cités (=3, 11, ..) vous devez tricoter la dernière maille de A.1a avec les 2 premières de A.1b (= le 2ème jeté est la dernière m de A.1a = 6 m de nouveau). la dernière m de chaque A.1b se tricote avec les 2 premières m du A.1b suivant (= 6 m) et avec les 2 premières de A.1c (= 7 m). Les diagrammes lus ainsi sont justes. Bon tricot!

Anna 28.06.2020 - 17:42:

Hallo, ich habe eine Frage zum Diagramm. Wie stricke ich denn bei A.1a- A.1c die versetzten Ärmelreihen mit dem Pfeil wenn der Rumpf gestrickt wird und nicht der Ärmel? Werden diese Pfeilreihen dann einfach weg gelassen oder verschoben? Danke!

DROPS Design 29.06.2020 kl. 08:34:

Liebe Anna, wenn Sie die Ärmel stricken, stricken Sie A.1b in der Runde, dh die 1. Masche (= zusätzlichen Maschen rechts im Diagram) wird die vorrige Masche (= die letzte Masche der vorrige Runde am Anfang der Runde = z.B. die letzte Masche von 6. Runde wenn man die 7. Runde strickt, und dann die letzte Masche A.1b wird zusammen mit den 2 ersten Maschen nächster A.1b gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Gabriele 04.06.2020 - 22:27:

Hallo - Habe angefangen das Jäckchen in Grösse XS zu stricken und komme jetzt zum Diagramm. Wenn ich die 5 Blendenmaschen, 1 x A.1a und 23 x A.1b stricke, verbleiben mir 14 Maschen und nicht wie beschrieben 12 Maschen. Ich finde nicht heraus, was ich falsch mache - können Sie mir weiterhelfen? Besten Dank!

DROPS Design 05.06.2020 kl. 07:31:

Liebe Gabriele, die 161 Maschen stricken Sie wie folgt: 5 Blendemaschen + 6 Maschen in A.1a + 138 Maschen in A.1b (= die 6 Maschen x 23) + 7 Maschen in A.1c + 5 Blendemaschen = 5+6+138+7+5= 161 M. Setzen Sie Markierer zwischen den Diagrammen, es kann ja Ihnen helfen, die richtige Maschenanzahl in jedem Diagram zu prüfen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Chris Lakner 21.05.2020 - 11:31:

20 cm für das Rumpfteil sind definitiv zu kurz! Ich rate jedem, der den Größtteil der Pullover hier auf der Seite strickt, mindestens 10 cm mehr für die Rumpfteile zu stricken! Ansonsten sind die Muster topp, auch wenn manchmal schwer verständlich, sodass sie nur für erfahrene Strickerinnen erklärt sind.

Joe 16.05.2020 - 23:22:

Je viens de terminer ce modèle en couleur lilas N°9. Très beau rendu. Merci à toute l'équipe

Ruisanchez Éva 11.05.2020 - 23:47:

Hello, I think there is a mistake in the A1.c pattern (sizes xs, m...): there should be a decrease at the end of the following rs rows: 3, 11, 19, 31, otherwise there is an extra stich in those rows. I realized that there is an skp at the end of those rows at the other pattern for sizes s-xl. Shoul I do the same? Thanks for the answer!

DROPS Design 12.05.2020 kl. 10:08:

Dear Mrs Ruisanchez, when you work this row, you first work the last st in A.1a together with the first stitch in A.1b, then work the last stitch in A.1b together with the first stitch in next A.1b and, at the end of the row with the first stitch in A.1c so that the number of sts in A.1c should be right, = there are still 7 sts and 6 sts in each A.1b as well as in A.1a. Adjust your markers between each repeat on next row from WS if necessary. Happy knitting!

FRANCOISE DE WEIRT 11.05.2020 - 13:31:

"Commencer par tricoter un rang envers sur l'envers " le premier rang est logiquement à l'endroit... l'endroit devient-il l'envers?

DROPS Design 11.05.2020 kl. 16:28:

Bonjour Mme De Weirt, dans ce modèle, le 1er rang sera l'envers de l'ouvrage, on a ainsi 1 rang jersey endroit vu sur l'endroit au tout début et le 1er rang des côtes sera sur l'endroit. Bon tricot!

Caroline 10.05.2020 - 14:42:

Hej. Efter att ha stickat mönster varv 3 har jag 162 m på stickorna. Ska det vara så? Har stickat det flera ggr och kommer fram till samma resultat hela tiden... Tacksam för omgående svar, fick tyvärr aldrig något svar över huvud taget förra gången jag frågade... Mvh. Caroline.

DROPS Design 11.05.2020 kl. 08:35:

Hej. Maskantalet ska var oförändrat efter varv 3 eftersom du ökar 2 m och minskar 2 maskor per diagram på det varvet. Mvh DROPS Design

Oksana 20.04.2020 - 10:10:

Please specify if A.2 is knitted on sleeve or not. Thank you!

DROPS Design 20.04.2020 kl. 11:03:

Dear Oksana, A.2 is not worked on the sleeve, neither before the yoke nor after - see written pattern. Happy knitting!

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