DROPS Design: Pattern no sk-063
Yarn group B + A or C
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WHOLE SET:

SIZES:
S/M - M/L - L/XL
Fits head size: approx. 54/56 - 56/58 - 58/60 cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200-200-200 g colour 06, sea green
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
75-100-100 g colour 24, petrol

HAT:

SIZES:
S/M - M/L - L/XL
Fits head size: approx. 54/56 - 56/58 - 58/60 cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-100 g colour 06, sea green
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-50-50 g colour 24, petrol

CROCHET TENSION:
13 double-treble crochets/double crochets in width with 1 strand of each quality = 10 cm.
Pattern A.2 = 3 rows measures approx. 3.25 cm in height.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5.5 MM.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller hook size.

NECK WARMER:

SIZES:
S/M - M/L - L/XL
The piece measures approx.: Circumference = 60-65-69 cm. Height = 24-27-30 cm. 

MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
100-100-150 g colour 06, sea green
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-50-50 g colour 24, petrol

CROCHET TENSION:
13 double-treble crochets/double crochets in width with 1 strand of each quality = 10 cm.
Pattern A.2 = 3 rows measures approx. 3.25 cm in height.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5.5 MM.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller hook size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 4.90 £ /50g
DROPS Sky uni colour DROPS Sky uni colour 4.90 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Sky mix DROPS Sky mix 4.90 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order

75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 3.80 £ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 3.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 3.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN (for both hat and neck warmer): 
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.

CHAIN STITCH:
If you work outermost on the hook the chain stitch will often be too tight; 1 chain stitch should be as long as 1 double crochet/treble crochet is wide.

1 PUFF-STITCH:
Work as follows in the same stitch (important to work in the stitch not around the stitch): * Make 1 yarn over, insert the hook through the stitch, make 1 yarn over and pull it through the stitch; make both yarn overs long (to avoid the puff-stitch being small and compact it is important to pull the yarn overs to approx. 2 cm in length) *, work from *-* a total of 5 times, make a yarn over and pull the strand through all loops on the hook.

DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 63 stitches) and divide by number of decreases to be made (e.g. 28) = 2.3. 
In this example decrease by working approx. every first and second stitch together as follows: Insert the hook through the next stitch, make 1 yarn over and pull it through the stitch, insert the hook through the next stitch, make 1 yarn over and pull it through the stitch, make 1 more yarn over and pull it through all 3 loops on the hook (= 1 stitch decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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HAT - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The hat is worked back and forth from mid back, bottom up, and sewn together mid back to finish.

HAT:
Work 75-77-82 chain stitches with hook size 5.5 mm, using 1 strand Sky + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands).
The first row is worked as follows: Work 1 double crochet in the 3rd chain stitch from the hook, 1 double crochet in each of the next 0-2-1 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 5 chain stitches *, work from *-* to end of row = 62-64-68 double crochets on the row.
The next row is worked as follows: Work A.1 over the first stitch, A.2 until there are 3 stitches left on the row, A.3 over 2 stitches and finish with A.4 over the last stitch. Continue this pattern back and forth. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
When the piece measures approx. 20-21-22 cm, decrease 28-30-30 stitches evenly, either on row 3 or on row 6 in the diagram (marked with an arrow in the diagram) – read DECREASE TIP = 34-34-38 stitches.
Work 2 more rows of puff-stitches.
On the next row (a row of double crochets), decrease by working all double crochets together 2 and 2 = 17-17-19 double crochets left.
Then work 2 rows of double crochets where all the double crochets are worked together 2 and 2 on both rows = 5 double crochets left in all sizes.
Cut the strands but leave a strand-end long enough to sew the seam with.
Tack the strand up and down through the 5 stitches at the top of the hat, tighten and fasten well. The hat measures approx. 26-27-28 cm from the top down.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the hat together mid back – sew edge to edge in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch so the seam is flat.

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NECK WARMER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth from mid back, bottom up and sewn together mid back to finish.

NECK WARMER:
Work 94-101-108 chain stitches with hook size 5.5 mm using 1 strand Sky + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands).
The first row is worked as follows: Work 1 double crochet in the 3rd chain stitch from the hook, 1 double crochet in each of the next 1-2-3 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 5 chain stitches *, work from *-* to end of row = 78-84-90 double crochets on the row.
The next row is worked as follows: Work A.1A over the first stitch, A.2 until there are 3 stitches left on the row, A.3 over 2 stitches and finish with A.4 over the last stitch. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
Continue this pattern back and forth until the piece measures approx. 24-27-30 cm (or to desired length) but finish after either row 3 or row 6 in the diagrams. Cut the strand but leave a strand-end long enough to sew the seam with.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the neck warmer together mid back – sew edge to edge in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch so the seam is flat.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 07.04.2021
Diagram A.1: Symbol on 2nd row replaced.
Updated online: 08.04.2021
Section CROCHET INFORMATION under EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN removed.

Diagram

symbols = this row not to be worked; it has already been worked and shows how the next row is worked in the stitches
symbols = 1 chain stitch (equivalent to 1 double crochet) - if you work outermost on the hook the chain stitch will often be too tight; 1 chain stitch should be as long as 1 double crochet/treble crochet is wide
symbols = 1 double crochet in treble crochet/puff-stitch
symbols = 3 chain stitches (equivalent to 1 treble crochet)
symbols = 1 treble crochet in stitch
symbols = skip 1 stitch, work 1 treble crochet in next stitch, 1 chain stitch, 1 PUFF-STITCH – read description in text – in the skipped stitch (puff-stitch should cross the treble crochet so the treble crochet ends up on the wrong side of the piece)
symbols = skip 1 puff-stitch + 1 chain stitch, work 1 treble crochet in the next treble crochet, 1 chain stitch, 1 puff-stitch in the skipped chain stitch (puff-stitch should cross the treble crochet so the treble crochet ends up on the wrong side of the piece)
symbols = decrease row at top of hat
diagram
signature-image signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 204-16) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (29)

country flag AnneC wrote:

Thanks again! But I've still not got it right. For X there are 3 stitches over 2 DC: a treble, a chain and a puff, 3 stitches instead of 2. I solved this problem by working the next row into trebles and chains only. I did a treble on a treble and a puff on a chain (as in the box symbol). This led to my second question. Treble on treble and puff on chain, in every row or alternating? I do know how to do puffs. My solution looks ok but it does not follow your pattern.

04.01.2022 - 16:33

country flag AnneC wrote:

Thank you for answering quickly. My questions are still the same: 1. Does a puff count as a stitch? 2. Are trebles always worked into trebles and puffs into chains, or the other way round in alternate rows?

04.01.2022 - 10:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dear AnneC, yes a puff counts as a stitch, but I don't understand your 2nd question, maybe that video could help you? It shows how to crochet the puff stitches. Hope it will help. Happy crocheting!

04.01.2022 kl. 12:14

country flag AnneC wrote:

In the pattern X means skip 1 stitch, work a treble, then a chain and a puff into the missed stitch = 3 stitches on two box means skip a puff and a chain, work a treble, then a chain and a puff into the missed chain = 3 stitches on two Do you count a puff as a stitch or not? If not, the box and the X are the same, and we work into the trebles and chains only. Are trebles always worked into trebles in the next row, and puffs into chains, or the other way round in alternate rows?

04.01.2022 - 01:09

DROPS Design answered:

Dear AnneC, when crocheting the square, you first skip 1 puff stitch + 1 chain and crochet 1 treble in the next treble, then crochet 1 chain, and 1 puff stitch in the skipped chain stitch. Happy crocheting!

04.01.2022 kl. 07:38

country flag Marilou wrote:

Hello! I am having troubles with the pattern of the hat. What is the difference between treble crochet and double in treble crochet?

28.12.2021 - 23:55

DROPS Design answered:

Hello Marilou! Please look at tutorial videos at the end of the pattern: How to crochet a treble (tr) US / double treble (dtr) UK When making a double treble, you have to wrap the yarn twice around the hook. Hope it helps!

30.12.2021 kl. 22:32

country flag Tita wrote:

Taidan olla vähän tyhmä, mutta ihmettelen, kuinka puhvisilmukan läpivetovaiheessa koukulla voi olla 9 silmukkaa. Minusta siinä on 11 silmukkaa, koska viidessä toistossa joka kerta tulee kaksi silmukkaa lisää ja alkuperäisen lisäksi se tekee yhteensä yksitoista. Mitähän olen ymmärtänyt väärin?

05.11.2021 - 13:35

country flag Lonnie Braagaard wrote:

Jeg forsøger at hækle huen, men kan ikke forstå starten af opskriften. 1. række er hæklet og jeg har 68 fastmasker. 2. række ? der hækles iefter diagram men hvad skal der hækles? *T*TT og så videre eller? Håber jeg kan få hjælp

27.10.2021 - 15:14

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lonnie, nej, * = denne række skal ikke hækles, den er allerede hæklet og viser kun hvordan næste række skal hækles i maskerne - det vil sige at du hækler næste række :)

28.10.2021 kl. 14:07

country flag Olga wrote:

Hola, he comenzado a hacer el cuello. Si lo pongo en plano sobre la mesa me queda circular, no un rectángulo, como pensaba que tendría que quedar. Pienso que pasa esto porque en la primera vuelta dice que hay que saltarse una cadena. ¿Esto es correcto? O yo no lo he entendido bien? Gracias

19.05.2021 - 15:40

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Olga, la forma obtenida no es por la cadeneta saltada, sino que por la tensión del tejido. Efectivamente, se tiene que saltar una cadeneta; siempre se montan más cadenetas que las necesarias para evitar que la labor se tense.

30.05.2021 kl. 20:53

country flag Jean wrote:

Thanks. However the instructions for the box (□) say 'skip 1 puff-stitch + 1 chain stitch, work 1 treble crochet in the next treble crochet' - this uses 3 stitches. The instructions for the cross (X) say 'skip 1 stitch, work 1 treble crochet in next stitch' - this uses 2 stitches. It worked in the second row of the pattern fine because the box (□)was used all the way along the row (not the cross X). Please could you get someone to explain this. Thanks.

14.04.2021 - 13:10

country flag Jean wrote:

The very top row of the pattern (before the last row of double crochet) doesn't seem to work for me. I am working it right to left, A1 over 1st stitch, A2 until the last 3 stitches, A3 over last 2 stitches and A1 over last stitch. Because A2 is a cross (X) and not a box (□) (like row No 2), there ends up being more puff stitches because the chain stitch isn't being missed (there is a puff stitch being made every 2 stitches instead of 3). Should this symbol not be a box to prevent this?

13.04.2021 - 21:08

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jean, the X is worked over 2 stitches (1 treble in the 2. one, and one puff into the first one, cossing the tr), and the square is also wprked over two stitches (puff stitch into the 2. stotch, and treble into the first one) so you should not end up (both symbols have crossed stitches, only teh direction is different), so you should not end up with extra stitches. Happy Crafting!

13.04.2021 kl. 21:58

country flag Annette Fuglsang wrote:

Hej ! I flere af Drops opskrifter møder jeg 3 tal med bindestreg imellem f. eks. i Drops 204-16: "hækl 1 fastmaske i hver af de 0-2-1 næste luftmasker, . . . " Hvad betyder 0-2-1 næste luftmaske ? Eller i strikkeopskriften Drops Clementin Hat "Strik 0-1-0 maske ret, strik derefter . . ." Hvad betyder det ? Med venlig hilsen Annette

25.02.2021 - 06:50

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Annette, det er tallene i de 3 forskellige størrelser. Strikker du den mindste, følger du det første tal igennem hele opskriften osv. God fornøjelse!

25.02.2021 kl. 14:20

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