Sheep Happens! by DROPS Design

Pulovr s kruhovým sedlem a norským vzorem s ovečkami pletený shora dolů z příze DROPS Merino Extra Fine nebo DROPS Lima. Velikost S - XXXL.

  • Sheep Happens! / DROPS 194-2 - Pulovr s kruhovým sedlem a norským vzorem s ovečkami pletený shora dolů z příze DROPS Merino Extra Fine nebo DROPS Lima. Velikost S - XXXL.
  • Sheep Happens! / DROPS 194-2 - Pulovr s kruhovým sedlem a norským vzorem s ovečkami pletený shora dolů z příze DROPS Merino Extra Fine nebo DROPS Lima. Velikost S - XXXL.
DROPS design: model č. me-159
Skupina přízí B
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Velikost: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materiál:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE firmy Garnstudio (spadá do skupiny přízí B)
450-500-550-600-650-700 g, barva č. 05, světlá šedá
100-100-100-100-100-100 g, barva č. 19, světle šedomodrá
50-50-50-50-50-50 g, barva č. 01, smetanová
50-50-50-50-50-50 g, barva č. 02, černá
nebo
DROPS LIMA firmy Garnstudio (spadá do skupiny přízí B)
450-500-550-600-650-750 g, barva č. 9015, šedá
100-100-100-100-100-100 g, barva č. 6235, modrošedá
50-50-50-50-50-50 g, barva č. 0100, smetanová
50-50-50-50-50-50 g, barva č. 8903, černá

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POMŮCKY:

ZKUŠEBNÍ VZOREK:
21 ok na šířku a 28 řad na výšku lícovým žerzejem = 10 x 10 cm.

JEHLICE:
DROPS PONOŽKOVÉ JEHLICE a KRUHOVÉ JEHLICE č.4, dlouhé 40 a 80 cm.
DROPS PONOŽKOVÉ JEHLICE a KRUHOVÉ JEHLICE č.3, dlouhé 40 a 80 cm na lemy.
Uvedená síla jehlic je pouze orientační. Máte-li ve svém zkušebním vzorku více ok na 10 cm, použijte jehlice silnější. Pokud máte naopak méně ok na 10 cm, použijte jehlice slabší.

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Zkušební vzorek – Podívejte se, jak ho měřit a proč
Náhradní příze – Podívejte se, jak změnit přízi
Skupina přízí A až F – Neměňte návod, změňte přízi
Spotřeba příze při použití náhradní příze – Využijte náš převodník

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100% vlna
od 96.00 Kč /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 96.00 Kč /50g
Ganella
Objednat
DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 96.00 Kč /50g
Ganella
Objednat
needles Jehlice a háčky Objednat
Přízi na tento model můžete mít už za 1248Kč. Více zde.

Návod

VYSVĚTLIVKY:

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VZOR:
Viz schémata A.1 až A.3. Zvolte si schéma pro požadovanou velikost. Celý vzor pleteme lícovým žerzejem.
Jelikož jednotlivé barevné úseky leží dál od sebe, křížíme vlákna příze vždy po zhruba 7 okách, abychom neměli na rubové straně příliš dlouhá volná vlákna.

TIP – PŘIDÁVÁNÍ:
Abychom vypočítali, v jakých rozestupech musíme přidávat, vydělíme celkový počet ok v řadě (např. 90 ok) počtem ok, která potřebujeme přidat (tj. 31), takže 90 : 31 = 2,9.
V tomto případě tedy 1x nahodíme za každým zhruba 3. okem; v následující kruhové řadě pleteme nahození za zadní nit, aby se v pletenině netvořily dírky.

TIP - UJÍMÁNÍ (rukávy): 
Na každé straně značky ujmeme 1 oko, takto - začínáme 3 oka před značkou: 2 oka spleteme hladce, 2 oka upleteme hladce (značka leží mezi nimi), 1 oko sejmeme hladce, 1 oko upleteme hladce a sejmuté přes ně přetáhneme (= ujmuli jsme 2 oka). 

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POPIS PRÁCE:

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PULOVR - JAK BUDEME POSTUPOVAT:
Pleteme v kruhových řadách na kruhové jehlici, shora dolů. Rukávy pleteme v kruhových řadách na ponožkových jehlicích, také shora dolů.

SEDLO:
Na kruhovou jehlici č.3 nahodíme světlou šedomodrou přízí 90-94-98-102-110-118 ok a upleteme 1 kruhovou řadu hladce. Pokračujeme pružným vzorem 2/2 (tj. střídáme 2 oka hladce, 2 obrace). Ve výši 3 cm převedeme pleteninu na kruhovou jehlici č.4. Pleteme 1 kruhovou řadu hladce a SOUČASNĚ přidáme rovnoměrně 30-26-34-32-34-36 ok - viz TIP – PŘIDÁVÁNÍ = 120-120-132-134-144-154 ok. Pokračujeme vzorem, takto (kruhová řada začíná uprostřed zadního průkrčníku):
prvních 12-12-12-10-10-10 ok vzorem A.1 (= 2 sekvence po 6-6-6-5-5-5 okách), vzor A.2 (= 12 ok), dalších 42-42-48-50-55-60 ok vzorem A.1 (= 7-7-8-10-11-12 sekvencí vzoru), 12 ok vzorem A.2 a posledních 42-42-48-50-55-60 ok vzorem A.1 (= 7-7-8-10-11-12 sekvencí).
Po dokončení 1 celé sekvence vzoru A.1 i A.2 (na výšku) máme na jehlici 244-244-270-322-348-374 ok. Díl měří asi 16 cm (včetně pružného lemu).
Upleteme 1 kruhovou řadu světle šedou přízí a SOUČASNĚ přidáme rovnoměrně 11-11-15-8-12-1 ok = 255-255-285-330-360-375 ok.
Pak pleteme nad všemi oky vzor A.3 (= celkem 17-17-19-22-24-25 sekvencí po 15 okách).
Po dokončení 1 celé sekvence vzoru A.3 (na výšku) máme na jehlici 306-340-361-396-432-450 ok.
Díl dopleteme světle šedou přízí.
Pleteme lícovým žerzejem až do výše 21-23-25-26-28-30 cm (včetně pružného lemu).
Pak pleteninu rozdělíme na rukávy a trup a ty dokončíme odděleně:
44-48-50-56-62-67 ok upleteme lícovým žerzejem (= polovina zadního dílu), následujících 64-72-79-84-90-90 ok odložíme na pomocnou jehlici (= rukáv), nahodíme 8-8-10-10-10-14 nových ok (= podpaží), 89-99-102-115-127-135 ok upleteme lícovým žerzejem (= přední díl), následujících 64-72-79-84-90-90 ok odložíme na pomocnou jehlici (= rukáv), nahodíme 8-8-10-10-10-14 nových ok (= podpaží) a posledních 45-49-51-57-63-68 ok upleteme lícovým žerzejem (= polovina zadního dílu) = 194-212-223-248-272-298 ok.

TRUP:
Pokračujeme lícovým žerzejem. Ve výši 26-26-26-27-27-27 cm od místa, kde jsme díly rozdělili, přidáme v následující kruhové řadě rovnoměrně 26-32-33-32-40-42 ok = 220-244-256-280-312-340 ok. Pleteninu převedeme na kruhovou jehlici č.3 a pleteme pružným vzorem 2/2 (nahození pleteme za zadní nit, aby se v pletenině netvořily dírky). Když je pružný lem vysoký 4 cm, všechna oka hladce uzavřeme (celý díl měří asi 30-30-30-31-31-31 cm od místa, kde jsme díly rozdělili). Pulovr měří asi 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm (od ramene).

RUKÁV:
Odložených 64-72-79-84-90-90 ok jednoho rukávu vrátíme z pomocné jehlice zpět na ponožkové jehlice č.4 a navíc k nim nabereme po 1 oku z každého z 8-8-10-10-10-14 nových ok v podpaží = 72-80-89-94-100-104 ok. Doprostřed 8-8-10-10-10-14 ok v podpaží vložíme značku – kruhová řada začíná zde. Pleteme v kruhových řadách lícovým žerzejem světle šedou přízí. Ve výši 1 cm od podpaží ujmeme na každé straně značky 1 oko – viz TIP – UJÍMÁNÍ. Toto ujímání opakujeme vždy po 3-2-1,5-1,5-1,5-1 cm výšky, celkem 11-15-18-19-22-23x = 50-50-53-56-56-58 ok. Ve výši 40-38-37-36-35-33 cm od podpaží přidáme v kruhové řadě rovnoměrně 2-2-3-0-4-2 oka = 52-52-56-56-60-60 ok. Pleteninu převedeme na ponožkové jehlice č.3. Pleteme v kruhových řadách pružným vzorem 2/2. Ve výši 44-42-41-40-39-37 cm od podpaží všechna oka hladce uzavřeme (pružný lem měří asi 4 cm). Stejným způsobem upleteme i druhý rukáv.

Schéma

symbols = světlá šedomodrá
symbols = smetanová
symbols = černá
symbols = světlá šedá
symbols = 1x nahodíme mezi 2 oky, v následující kruhové řadě pleteme nahození za zadní nit
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
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Potřebujete poradit s tímto návodem?

Děkujeme, že jste si vybrali návod DROPS Design. Zakládáme si na tom, že dáváme k dispozici návody ověřené a snadno srozumitelné. Všechny návody jsou přeložené z norského originálu a tak si můžete kdykoli srovnat rozměry a počty s původním návodem (DROPS 194-2) .

Máte s návodem potíže? Níže najdete seznam odkazů, které vám pomohou dokončit vaše dílo co nejdříve - nebo se třeba přiučit něco nového.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

nahoru

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Pořídili jste si přízi DROPS na tento model? Pak máte taky právo žádat po svém prodejci, u něhož jste nakoupili, pomoc a rady. Seznam DROPS obchodů najdete tady!
Pořád se nemůžete dobrat odpovědi, kterou hledáte? Pak posuňte stránku dolů a napište nám svůj dotaz, naši specialisté se vám pokusí poradit. Obvykle to zvládneme během 5 až 10 pracovních dnů.. Mezitím si můžete pročíst otázky a odpovědi, které k tomuto modelu položili ostatní, nebo navštívit skupinu DROPS Workshop na Facebooku, kde vám může poradit některá spřízněná duše!

Komentáře / Otázky (112)

country flag Dea wrote:

Ciao, ci sono dei refusi dove dice: " dal momenti che....per evirare..." .

03.04.2022 - 14:25

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Dea, grazie per la segnalazione, abbiamo corretto il testo. Buon lavoro!

03.04.2022 kl. 22:06

country flag Colleen wrote:

I want to start Sheep Happens sweater 194-2 but am having a problem reading the diagram to choose my size.. All pattern directions are in centimeters but the diagram numbers look like inches to me. (Unless the bottom measurement is 9” wide for the adult large which is unlikely!) Please confirm whether or not diagram is in inches. Thank you.

28.02.2022 - 16:07

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Colleen, all measurements in chart are in cm but are taken flat from side to side, not around - read more here and convert into inches here. Happy knitting!

28.02.2022 kl. 16:33

country flag Alex wrote:

Bonjour, est-il possible de tricoter ce pull avec la laine Puna ? Si oui les quantités de laines changent-elles ? Merci !

13.01.2022 - 00:06

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Alex, Puna et Merino Extra Fine appartiennent toutes deux au groupe de fils C, vous pouvez ainsi utiliser notre convertisseur pour laisser calculer les nouvelles quantités nécessaires. Bon tricot!

13.01.2022 kl. 08:43

country flag Elisabeth Eide Tharaldsen wrote:

Hei. Hvorfor er ermlemngden 40 cm i str S, og kortest i størst størrelse? Det føles veldig unaturlig å ØKE rett før vrangborden nede på genseren, skal det felles?

09.01.2022 - 18:00

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Elisabeth. Man har ikke lengre ermer selv om man bruker str XXXL. I de største størrelsene er overvidden større og da blir ermlengden på plagg kortere. Tidligere var motebildet slik at vrangborden skulle være smal og maskeantallet på vrangborden skulle være mindre enn bolen. Nå ønsker man en jevnere overgang mellom vrangbord og bol, slik at da øker man masker før vrangbord og bytter til mindre pinnestr. (om man strikker nedenifra og opp feller man masker). mvh DROPS Design

14.01.2022 kl. 14:48

country flag Brit Sønnøve wrote:

Jeg har strikka i str 7/8, men virker som str 4. Hvilken str skal jeg strikke i for å få den stor nok? Str guiden stemmer ikke i drt hele tatt!

19.11.2021 - 10:53

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Britt, for at få størrelsen som står i måleskitsen, er det vigtigt at du holder strikkefastheden som står i opskriften, altså 21 masker på 10 cm i bredden og 28 pinde på 10 cm i højden. Strikker du i DROPS Merino Extra Fine eller DROPS Lima?

19.11.2021 kl. 13:47

country flag Martine wrote:

Er dette unisex? Tenker å lage denne til herre

08.11.2021 - 20:46

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Martine. Om du hittar en storlek som passar så kan du göra denna till även till herr. Se på måttskissen längst ner för att hitta den storlek du ska göra. Mvh DROPS Design

09.11.2021 kl. 09:04

country flag Nina Solveig Matzow wrote:

Jeg er i gang med å strikke genser Sheep Happens i str. XXL. Jeg har ikke den lyse grå hovedfargen. Hvor, Hvordan og Hvor mange nøster skal jeg bestille ? Vennligst, Nina M.

22.09.2021 - 10:45

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Nina, til størrelse XXL skal du bruge 13 nøgler DROPS Merino Extra Fine i hovedfarven uanset hvilken farve du vælger :)

22.09.2021 kl. 15:54

country flag Grethe wrote:

Hei 😀 har strikket mye Drops design og har alltid vært fornøyd. Dette mønsteret får jeg ikke til å stemme. Jeg lå mellom XL og XXL i størrelse. Valgte XXL for jeg strikker litt fast. Har målt strikkefastheten, og jeg får 19 masker på 10 cm. Den blir alt for vid, særlig bak på ryggen. Hvorfor blir den så vid på ryggen? Har prøvet den på, og den er ca 20 cm for stor. Nå må jeg rekke opp alt sammen og starte på nytt. Hvilken størrelse bør jeg velge?

19.09.2021 - 09:01

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Grethe. Et tips er å ta mål av en genser som passer deg, og sammenlign med målene i målskissen for å finne beste passform. Og det er veldig viktig at strikkefastheten blir overholdt. I denne oppskriften er 21 masker = 10 cm. mvh DROPS Design

28.09.2021 kl. 11:37

country flag Janet Green wrote:

Is it easy to knit from the top down I have never seen this done

15.09.2021 - 13:11

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Janet Green! It is easier than bottom-up. Just follow the pattern. Also, look video tutorial at the bottom of the pattern. Happy knitting!

15.09.2021 kl. 14:29

country flag Guinevere wrote:

Hi there! I'm having trouble finding the bust measurements in the schematic. I'm ok with arm length, hips circumference and total length. Could you please help?

24.07.2021 - 11:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Guinevere, see the width of the sweater at the bottom of the drawing, double it and you will get the approximate bust measurements. Happy Stitching!

24.07.2021 kl. 12:18

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Sheep Happens!

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Sheep Happens!

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Sheep Happens!

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