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Lawless by DROPS Design
Knitted hooded cowl in DROPS Merino Extra Fine or DROPS Karisma. Piece is knitted top down in garter stitch. Size: S - XXXL
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Yarn group B
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Size: S/M – L/XL – XXL/XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
300-300-350 g colour 02, black
Or use:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
300-350-350 g colour 05, black
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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:
KNITTING TENSION:
23 stitches in width and 48 rows vertically in garter stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm, length 80 cm for the garment in garter stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 mm, length 40 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.
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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Merino Extra Fine 100% Wool |
from 3.10 £ /50g | Order | ||||||||
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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.
INCREASE TIP:
Work until 1 stitch remains before marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over. On next round work yarn over twisted to avoid hole.
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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HOODED COWL - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle, top down. At the end the work is sewn together in the back and on top of the hood.
HOODED COWL:
Cast on 100 stitches on circular needle size 3 mm with Merino Extra Fine or Karisma. Work in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, back and forth. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 24 cm, cast on stitches at the end of every row in each side as follows: Cast on 1 stitch 2 times and 2 stitches 5 times (= 12 stitches increased in each side) = 124 stitches. At the end of next row cast on 28 stitches at the end of row = 152 stitches. Knit until mid back on helmet hat by knitting 62 stitches from after the 28 stitches cast on mid front. Now divide the piece mid back to work back and forth from mid back (this is done so that the seam is mid back). Work in garter stitch back and forth until piece measures 10 cm from the 28 stitches cast on mid front. Now insert 8 marker threads in the piece as follows: Begin mid back and insert first marker thread after 10 stitches, then insert the next 7 marker threads after 19 stitches, there are now 9 stitches on needle after last marker thread. Continue in garter stitch. On next row from right side, increase 1 stitch on each side of every marker thread - read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this approx. every 3 cm 6-7-8 times in total = 248-264-280 stitches. Work until piece measures 58-60-62 cm in total. Cast off with 2 strands. Pick up from right side 158 stitches around face opening on a short circular needle size 2.5 mm. Purl 1 round, knit 1 round, purl 1 round, knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 1/purl 1) for 6 cm. Cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Fold edge double towards wrong side and fasten it.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew together helmet hat in outer loop of outermost stitch mid back and at the top of hood.
Do you need help with this pattern?
Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 192-2) for measurements and calculations.
Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.
Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Comments / Questions (51)
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
With over 30 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 281 catalogues and 10519 patterns - 10519 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
First time I got confused with your pattern 😊1. the whole piece is in gaeter stitch except for the 158 stitches around face? 2. Is the piece worked inthe round at any stage? 3. Is it possible to send or add to the pattern a drawing fo what the finished piece looks like prior to been assambled? Thanks for the answerrs 💚
13.03.2022 - 19:12DROPS Design answered:
Dear Tiko, 1. correct, only the ribbing edge around face is worked in rib, the whole work is then worked in garter stitch. 2. Piece is only worked in rows, but first from mid front (until opening for face is done), then from mid back (after you have increased/cast on the stitches for under face). 3. we have no chart for this sorry. Happy knitting!
14.03.2022 kl. 12:06Could I do the whole pattern in rib instead of garter stitch? How could I adapt from one to the other? Thank you so much!
24.02.2022 - 19:10DROPS Design answered:
Dear Ana, your tension would be then different and your would have to re-calculate the whole pattern. You might find another pattern among these ones. Happy knitting!
25.02.2022 kl. 08:59Plz explain when you pick up 158 stitches around face opening do you have to pick up all of the stitches or you have to pick up 3 and skip one. Thanks
13.02.2022 - 20:44DROPS Design answered:
Hi Ayra, you have to distribute new stitches evenly to have 158 stitches around face opening in total. Happy knitting!
14.02.2022 kl. 08:18Plz explain for mid back seam after working on 28 new cast on stitches and 62 stitches when you turn your work do you have to do the purl stitch from that side and also you have to work on 28 stitches.again so the mid back seam is done. Now you have to do garter stitch for all of the stitches. Thanks
04.02.2022 - 01:51DROPS Design answered:
Dear Ayra, when you cut the yarn after the hood part, you start again piece from mid back (= approx. middle of previous rows), and will then cast on new stitches for face opening, ending rows on mid back. The seam on mid back will start here and will be sewn to the bottom edge; the 28 sts are cast on on mid front, there won't be any seam here. Hope it will help. Happy knitting!
04.02.2022 kl. 09:16Plz explain how you sew the hood in the end? Thanks
03.02.2022 - 02:10DROPS Design answered:
Dear Ayra, fold the cast on edge double and sew cast on sts together; and then sew on mid back from the beginning of row worked from mid back (after face opening) towards the cast off edge. Happy knitting!
03.02.2022 kl. 08:47One follow up if I may. If there is a seam mid-back, where is the face opening. I'm really confused as you can tell.
02.02.2022 - 14:18DROPS Design answered:
Dear Marta, you first work the hood, back and forth from mid front, then cut the yarn and start on mid back to work now from the mid back, increasing stitches on mid front and working the 2nd half of sts to mid back. The seam will be on mid back from this part. Hope it will help. Happy knitting!
02.02.2022 kl. 14:29Is any part of the hood knit in the round? Please, a schematic indicating direction of knitting and dimensions would really help with this pattern. Thank you very much.
01.02.2022 - 14:19DROPS Design answered:
Dear Marta, the hood is worked back and forth from the bottom up, there will be a seam on mid back at the very end, and you then sew together the cast off stitches together on top of hood. Happy knitting!
01.02.2022 kl. 16:26Thanks for quick response. Really love the style of this hood but still confused ( now divide the piece mid back to work back and forth from the mid back) How you do this ? Thanks
31.01.2022 - 19:52DROPS Design answered:
Dear Ayra, put a marker in the mid back. Then work a row until the stitch on the other side of this marker stitch, turn and then work back (over the stitches you have just worked), so that the seam is in the back. Happy knitting!
31.01.2022 kl. 23:55Hello The hood looks great just confused is that bottom part knitted in round? Thanks
29.01.2022 - 20:02DROPS Design answered:
Dear Ayra, the hood is worked back and forth and is sewn to finish. Happy knitting!
30.01.2022 kl. 21:39En lækker hue til fisketuren eller en tur med hunden.\r\nVidunderligt, at den skal strikkes på to pinde.\r\nJeg vil forsøge mig i Puna, da jeg er allergisk overfor uld.\r\nMen hvordan ved jeg om jeg bør strikke str. S/M - L/XL - XXL/XXXL - jeg kan ikke se et måleskema, som ved sweatrene. Hvordan gør man her?
29.10.2021 - 11:41