DROPS / 188 / 7

Petite Fleur Cardigan by DROPS Design

Jacket with multi-coloured pattern, flowers and round yoke, crocheted top down with 3/4 long sleeves. Size: S - XXXL Piece is crocheted in DROPS Cotton Merino.

DROPS design: Pattern cm-079
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
500-550-600-650-750-800 g colour 01, off white
50-50-50-100-100-100 g colour 05, powder pink
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 15, mustard

Piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 18 treble crochets x 9 rows = 10 cm in width and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 521: 7 pieces for all sizes
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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 3.40 £ /50g
DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour 3.40 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 40.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.8.

CROCHET INFO:
Begin every treble crochet row with 3 chain stitches (replaces first treble crochet).
Begin every double crochet row with 1 chain stitch (does not replace first double crochet).
When sleeves are worked back and forth and worked together at the end/beginning of row, begin every row with treble crochets with 3 chain stitches (replaces first treble crochet) and finish with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of row, turn piece.
On 2nd row in A.7 begin and end row as follows: Work 1 slip stitch in each of the first 2 stitches on previous row, 3 chain stitches (replace first treble crochet), finish row with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of row. Work both from right and wrong side.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP:
To calculate how to increase/decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches (e.g. 105 stitches), minus bands (e.g. 10 stitches = 95 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of increases/decreases to be done (e.g. 7) = 13.5. I.e. in this example increase by working 2 double crochets in same stitch alternately every 13th. and 14th stitch.
To decrease evenly in this example work alternately every 12th and 13th and every 13th and 14th stitch together.

COLOUR PATTERN: 
When switching colour at the beginning of a row, work slip stitch at the end of previous row with the new colour.
When changing colour on row work as follows: Work last treble crochet with first colour but wait with last pull through, switch to next colour and work last pull through, then work next stitch. When working with two colours place strand for the colour not worked over stitches from previous row, work around the strand so that it is hidden and follows. When there are no more treble crochets left on row to be worked in same colour, the colour does not need to follow onwards in piece, if it is to be used on next row, pick it up on next row, but make sure that the yarn comes on wrong side of piece.
Make sure to avoid tights yarn and not to tighten yarn when picking it up from previous row.
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JACKET:
Yoke and body are worked back and forth from mid front, top down. Work sleeves back and forth and work together at the end of every row.

YOKE:
Work 123-128-132-138-143-149 chain stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side of piece and 1 chain stitch to turn with) on hook size 4 mm with powder pink. Work 1 double crochet in 2nd chain stitch from hook (= 1 double crochet) - read CROCHET INFO, 1 double crochet in each of the next 2-0-4-3-1-0 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 6 chain stitches *, work from *-* = 105-109-113-118-122-127 double crochets.
Work first row from wrong side as follows: Work 1 double crochet in every double crochet and increase
7-15-23-22-30-29 stitches evenly - read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 112-124-136-140-152-156 double crochets. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
Work next row as follows from right side - read COLOUR PATTERN:
Work A.1 over the first 6 stitches, A.2 over 16-20-24-24-24-24 stitches (= 4-5-6-6-6-6 repetitions of 4 stitches) (= left front piece), work A.3 over 2-2-2-3-3-4 stitches (= 2-2-2-3-3-4 repetitions of 1 stitch), A.2 over 12 stitches (= 3 repetitions), A.3 over 2-2-2-3-3-4 stitches (= 2-2-2-3-3-4 repetitions) (= left sleeve), A.2 over 36-40-44-44-56-56 stitches (= 9-10-11-11-14-14 repetitions) (= back piece), A.3 over 2-2-2-3-3-4 stitches (= 2-2-2-3-3-4 repetitions), A.2 over 12 stitches (= 3 repetitions), A.3 over 2-2-2-3-3-4 stitches (= 2-2-2-3-3-4 repetitions) (= right sleeve), A.2 over 16-20-24-24-24-24 stitches (= 4-5-6-6-6-6 repetitions) and finish with A.1 over the last 6 stitches (= right front piece).
When A.1 to A.3 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 152-164-176-200-212-236 stitches on last row. Piece measures approx. 6 cm.
Work next row as follows from right side:
Work A.4 over the first 7 stitches, work A.5 until 12 stitches remain (= 11-12-13-15-16-18 repetitions of 12 stitches) AT THE SAME TIME decrease 1 treble crochet, work A.6 over the next 5 stitches and finish with A.4 over the last 7 stitches.
When A.4 to A.6 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 232-251-270-308-327-365 stitches on last row (2 treble crochets worked together = 1 stitch). Piece measures approx. 16 cm. Now finish piece with off white as follows:
Work as follows from wrong side AT THE SAME TIME adjust number of stitches to 232-250-271-307-328-364 treble crochets (i.e. increase 0-0-1-0-1-0 treble crochets and decrease 0-1-0-1-0-1 treble crochets): Work 1 treble crochet in each of the first 5 treble crochets, A.7 over 33-36-42-48-51-57 treble crochets (= 11-12-14-16-17-19 repetitions of 3 stitches), A.8 over 3 treble crochets, A.7 over 36-39-42-48-51-57 treble crochets (= 12-13-14-16-17-19 repetitions), A.8 over 3 treble crochets, A.7 over 72-78-81-93-102-114 treble crochets (= 24-26-27-31-34-38 repetitions), A.8 over 3 treble crochets, A.7 over 36-39-42-48-51-57 treble crochets (= 12-13-14-16-17-19 repetitions), A.8 over 3 treble crochets, A.7 over 33-36-42-48-51-57 treble crochets (= 11-12-14-16-17-19 repetitions) and finish with 1 treble crochet in each of the last 5 treble crochets.
Continue pattern like this. When A.7 to A.8 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 256-274-295-331-352-388 treble crochets on last row.
Work 1 treble crochet in each of the first 5 treble crochets, work A.7 until 5 treble crochets remain (= 82-88-95-107-114-126 repetitions), finish with 1 treble crochet in each of the last 5 treble crochets. Continue pattern like this until piece measures 19-21-22-24-26-28 cm from neck edge, adjust so that next row is a row with only treble crochets.
Now divide body and sleeves as follows: Work 1 treble crochet in each of the first 5 treble crochets, A.7 as before over the next 33-36-39-45-51-57 treble crochets, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 2-1-1-1-0-0 treble crochets (= front piece), skip the next 53-57-62-68-70-75 treble crochets (= sleeve), work 8 chain stitches under sleeve, work 1 treble crochet in 1-0-1-1-1-0 treble crochet, work A.7 as before over the next 69-75-78-90-99-114 treble crochets, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 0-1-2-2-0-0 treble crochets (= back piece), skip the next 53-57-62-68-70-75 treble crochets (= sleeve), work 8 chain stitches under sleeve, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 2-1-1-1-0-0 treble crochets, A.7 as before over the next 33-36-39-45-51-57 treble crochets, and finish with 1 treble crochet in each of the last 5 treble crochets (= front piece).

BODY:
= 166-176-187-211-228-254 stitches. Continue with 1 treble crochet in each of the first 5 and last 5 treble crochets and work pattern A.7 over the remaining stitches AT THE SAME TIME as you on first row increase 0-2-0-0-1-2 treble crochets evenly (A.7 is then repeated 52-56-59-67-73-82 times in width) = 166-178-187-211-229-256 treble crochets. When piece measures 3 cm from where body and sleeves where divided, decrease 3 treble crochets on next row (adjust to decrease on a row with only treble crochets). Decrease like this every 2½-2½-4-3-4-2½ cm 5-5-3-4-3-5 times in total = 151-163-178-199-220-241 stitches. For every decrease work 1 repetition less of A.7 in width.
When piece measures 14 cm from where body and sleeves where divided, increase 3 treble crochets evenly (adjust to increase on a row with only treble crochets).
Increase like this every cm 13-13-14-14-14-14 times in total = 190-202-220-241-262-283 stitches. For every increase work 1 repetition more of A.7 in width.
Continue until piece measures 30-30-31-31-31-31 cm from where body and sleeves were divided (49-51-53-55-57-59 cm from neck edge), finish after 1 row with treble crochets. Fasten off.

SLEEVE:
Work piece back and forth (i.e. alternately from right and wrong side) and work together with 1 slip stitch on every row.
Begin working in the 5th chain stitch of the 8 chain stitches worked in armhole on body with off white as follows: Work 1 slip stitch, 3 chain stitches (= 1 treble crochet), 1 treble crochet in each of the next 3 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet in next 1-0-1-1-0-0 treble crochet, A.7 over the next 51-57-60-66-69-75 treble crochets (= 17-19-20-22-23-25 times in width), 1 treble crochets in next 1-0-1-1-1-0 treble crochet and finish with 1 treble crochet in each of the last 4 chain stitches = 61-65-70-76-78-83 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of row.
On next row with treble crochets decrease 4-5-4-4-3-5 treble crochets evenly = 57-60-66-72-75-78 stitches. Now repeat A.7 19-20-22-24-25-26 times in the round on row.
When sleeve measures 4 cm from where piece was divided from body, decrease 3 treble crochets evenly on row (adjust to decrease on a row with only treble crochets). Decrease like this every 4-4-3-2-2-1½ cm 3-3-4-4-4-4 times in total = 48-51-54-60-63-66 stitches. Every time you decrease, repeat A.7 1 time less in width.
Continue until piece measures 16-14-14-13-11-9 cm from where sleeve was divided from body. Fasten off. Work the other sleeve the same way.

NECK EDGE:
Work back and forth over chain stitch row in neck as follows:
ROW 1 (= from right side with off white): Begin over band, fasten yarn to piece with 1 slip stitch in 1st band stitch, work 2 chain stitches (= 1 half treble crochet), work 1 half treble crochet in every double crochet the entire row = 105-109-113-118-122-127 half treble crochets.
ROW 2 (= from wrong side with powder pink): Work 1 double crochet in every half treble crochet = 105-109-113-118-122-127 double crochets. Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to the left front band. Fasten first button approx. 2 cm down from neck, then fasten them approx. 7-8 cm apart. Button between 2nd and 3rd treble crochet on right band.

Diagram

= chain stitch with powder pink
= double crochet in stitch with powder pink
= double crochet in front loop of stitch from wrong side with off white
= double crochet in stitch with off white
= double crochet around stitch /between stitches with off white
= treble crochet in stitch with off white
= treble crochet in stitch with powder pink
= treble crochet around chain stitch with off white
= work 4 treble crochets together in same stitch with powder pink as follows: Work 1 treble crochet in first stitch, but wait with last pull through, work another 3 treble crochets in same stitch, but wait with last pull through, pull yarn through all 5 loops on hook
= work 4 treble crochets together in same stitch with mustard as follows: Work 1 treble crochet in first stitch, but wait with last pull through, work another 3 treble crochets in same stitch, but wait with last pull through, pull yarn through all 5 loops on hook
= work 2 treble crochets together in same stitch with off white as follows: Work 1 treble crochet in first stitch, but wait with last pull through, work 1 treble crochet more in same stitch, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook
= row has already been worked, begin on next row
= chain stitch with off white
= crochet direction




Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 188-7) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (25)

Noor 02.07.2020 - 16:49:

Work A.4 over the first 7 stitches, work A.5 until 12 stitches remain (= 11-12-13-15-16-18 repetitions of 12 stitches) AT THE SAME TIME decrease 1 double crochet, work A.6 over the next 5 stitches and finish with A.4 over the last 7 stitches. Is it one decrease total? Or one decrease per repetition?

DROPS Design 02.07.2020 kl. 17:21:

Dear Mrs Noor, you will decrease only 1 stitch so that the number of stitches in diagrams fit. Happy crocheting!

Maria 24.08.2019 - 11:00:

Como me puede descargar un patron para imprimirlo en una copisteria?gracias

DROPS Design 31.08.2019 kl. 21:18:

Hola Maria. Tienes el botón imprimir bajo los materiales. Después tienes que elegir la opción: Guardar como un archivo pdf y pasarlo a un USB.

Wilma 03.07.2019 - 15:53:

Thank u so much for the pattern,I haven’t started it yet,but am excited to,going to today,once again THANKS

Luciana 17.05.2019 - 17:14:

Buonasera, non riesco a capire i passaggi del colore all\'inizio del giacchino. 123 catenelle in rosa, secondo giro di maglie basse in bianco? grazie

DROPS Design 17.05.2019 kl. 20:01:

Buongiorno Luciana. Lavora con il colore rosa finchè non inizia il diagramma A.1. Buon lavoro!

Agnes Dijkman 02.04.2019 - 18:51:

Ben dit patroon aan het haken en bij A2 de 4e toer met tekening van 2 stokjes met een losse tussen in, krijg ik teveel steken aan het eind van deze toer. Deze tekening staat ook niet beschreven bij uitleg van telpatroon hoe deze te haken, kan iemand mij antwoord hierop geven hoe dit te haken?

DROPS Design 04.04.2019 kl. 08:52:

Dag Agnes,

A.2 bestaat uit herhalingen van 4 steken in de breedte. Op de 4e toer haak je steeds herhalingen van 4 vasten. Let goed op hoe je deze in de vorige toer haakt, zodat je niet te veel krijgt. Bij de vorige toer heb je namelijk steeds een losse tussen de stokjes gehaakt.

Agnes Dijkman 02.04.2019 - 12:50:

Ben dit patroon aan het haken en bij A2 de toer met tekening van 2 stokjes met een losse tussen in, krijg ik teveel steken na deze toer. Staat ook niet beschreven bij telpatroon hoe deze te haken, kan iemand mij antwoord hierop geven hoe dit te haken?

Bronwyn 01.02.2019 - 03:32:

Hi I have no idea how to read these patterns with the A1, A2 bit I don’t get. Do you have any patterns that are just written with out all the charts please I love your patterns but have not yet been able to make one

DROPS Design 01.02.2019 kl. 08:39:

Dear Mrs Bronwyn, start readingn diagram on the bottom corner on the right side on first row from RS, towards the left on every WS row, and from the left towards the right from WS. Each symbol represent 1 stitch/group of stitch (see diagram key). Should you need any further assistance reading diagram, please contact the store where you bought the yarn. Happy crocheting!

Carine 13.07.2018 - 07:27:

Merci beaucoup pour votre message. J\'ai suivi vos conseils. Je passe donc ensuite aux explications DOS & DEVANTS et me retrouve donc à devoir ajouter deux brides (taille M) au 2e rang de A7.... Est-ce normal et si oui comment faire ? Merci encore.

DROPS Design 13.07.2018 kl. 08:45:

Bonjour Carine, je crochèterais le 2ème rang de A.7 comme dans le diagramme et augmenterais une bride sous chaque manche (= 2 augmentations au total) pour avoir le bon nombre de motifs dès le rang suivant. Bon crochet!

Carine 11.07.2018 - 21:44:

Bonjour, au démarrage de la division dos-devants / manches, faut il faire un motif entier de A7 (\"comme avant\') ou seulement le premier rang de brides avant de passer aux explications\"DOS & DEVANTS\" où il y a des augmentations ? Merci beaucoup pour votre aide !

DROPS Design 12.07.2018 kl. 09:40:

Bonjour Carine, le dernier rang de A.7 avant la division du dos/des devants et des manches doit être un rang de brides (= le 1er, le 3ème ou le 4ème rang de A.7), au rang suivant, continuez A.7 sur les mailles des devants, du dos + dans les mailles en l'air montées sous les manches en augmentant en même temps 0-1-2 brides en fonction de la taille (= au 1er rang du dos/des devants). Bon crochet!

Carine Prunet 07.07.2018 - 07:59:

Dans les A7 et A8, les groupes de trois brides du troisième rang se font ils autour de la maille chaînette centrale du rang précèdent ou bien est-ce \"une bride dans b du rg précédent, b autour de la maille du rg précédent, b dans b du rg précédent\" ? Merci d\'avance et merci pour la réponse à ma première question qui m\'a permis de poursuivre avec bonheur !

DROPS Design 09.07.2018 kl. 09:26:

Bonjour Mme Brunet, ces brides sont le 8ème symbole = elles se crochètent autour de la maille en l'air du rang précédent = vous aurez ainsi 3 brides en naturel autour de la maille en l'air du rang 2. Bon crochet!

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