DROPS / 64 / 15

Island Girl by DROPS Design

DROPS Sweater with 1 thread Big Bouclé og 2 threads Alpaca Bouclé with large collar.

Tags: jumpers,
Sizes: Small/Medium - Medium/Large - Extra Large
Finished measurements: 112-122-128 cm.

Materials: DROPS BIG BOUCLÉ from Garnstudio
700-750-800 g col. no. 6, natural.
Or use:
DROPS Alpaca Bouclé from Garnstudio
500-550-600 g col.no 0100, off white

and use: DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
50-50-50 g col. no. 19, light gray.
and use: DROPS COTTON-VISCOSE from Garnstudio
50-50-50 g col. no. 18, pearl gray.

DROPS 6 mm [US 10] needles and double pointed needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.
DROPS 5 mm [US H] crochet hook, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.
Gauge: 10 sts x 17 rows with 1 thread Big Bouclé or 2 threads Alpaca Bouclé in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

80% Alpaca, 15% Wool, 5% Polyamide
from 3.00 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca Bouclé uni colour DROPS Alpaca Bouclé uni colour 3.00 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Alpaca Bouclé mix DROPS Alpaca Bouclé mix 3.00 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd

100% Cotton
from 1.60 £ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 1.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Cotton Viscose DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
find alternatives
DROPS Needles & Hooks

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Garter st, when knitting flat: Knit all sts, all rows.

Front: Cast on 58-63-66 sts with 1 thread Big Bouclé natural or 2 threads Alpaca Bouclé off white and knit 4 rows garter st. Change to stockinette st, keeping 1 st at each side in garter st throughout. When the work measures 52-54-56 cm, bind off for armholes at each side every other row: 2 sts 2-3-4 times, 1 st 4-4-3 times = 42-43-44 sts.
When the work measures 65-68-71 cm, put the center 16-17-18 sts on a st holder for the neck. Bind off at each neck edge every other row: 2 sts 2 times, 1 st 2 times = 7-7-7 sts remain on each shoulder. Bind off with double/4-double yarn when the work measures 72-75-78 cm.

Back: Cast on and knit as for the front. Bind off for armholes as on the front = 42-43-44 sts. Continue knitting until the work measures 71-74-77 cm then put the center 26-27-28 sts on a st holder for the neck. Dec 1 st at each neck edge on the next row = 7-7-7 sts remain on each shoulder. Bind off with double/4-double yarn when the work measures 72-75-78 cm.

Sleeve: Cast on 26-27-28 sts with 1 thread Big Bouclé natural or 2 threads Alpaca Bouclé off white. Knit 4 rows garter st, then change to stockinette st, keeping 1 st at each edge in garter st throughout. When the work measures 9-9-9 cm, inc 1 st at each side 7-7-8 times every 5-5-4 cm = 40-41-44 sts. When the work measures 46-44-43 cm, bind off at each side for sleeve cap every other row: 2 sts 2-2-2 times, 1 st 5-8-8 times, then 2 sts at each side until the work measures approx. 57-57-57 cm. Bind off.

Assembly: Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in the sleeves and sew sleeve and side seam in one, using the edge sts as a seam allowance.

Collar: Knit the collar back and forth on the needles from the left shoulder seam - pick up sts so that there are 6 cm of overlap on the left shoulder 3 cm at each side of the shoulder seam). Pick up approx. 70-80 sts around the neck on double pointed needles with 1 thread Big Bouclé natural or 2 threads Alpaca Bouclé off white (including sts from the st holders). Knit stockinette st, keeping 1 st in garter st at each side. When the collar measures 16-17-18 cm, knit 2 rows garter st over all sts, bind off with double/4-double yarn.

Crochet: With 2 strands Muskat and 2 strands Cotton Viscose (= 4 strands), work 1 row of reverse double crochet (dc) around the sleeves and around the collar.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 64-15) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (10)

Ada Berkhout 31.01.2020 - 19:54:

Goededag, ik ben de truit 64-15 aan het breien en volgens mij klopt de beschrijving van de mouw niet het is echt veel te smal je begint met 26 st opz. meerderen naar 40 daarna afkanten voor de kopje eindigt op 18 st. Maar de mouwkop past echt niet in het armsgat Alvast bedankt voor uw reactie, groetje Ada Berkhout

DROPS Design 09.02.2020 kl. 21:09:

Dag Ada,

Als je kijkt naar de stekenverhouding (10 steken is 10 cm) zou het wel moeten kloppen. Na alle meerderingen heb je namelijk 40 steken op de naald en dit komt overeen met ongeveer 40 cm. breedte. Volgens de tekening is het armsgat 20 cm hoog, dus dan zou de mouw hier in moeten passen.

Vasso Netsiou 12.01.2019 - 14:41:

Hi! I use 2 strands of Alpaca Boucle with 6mm needles but i get 7.5cm/10sts stockinette st instead of 10cm/10sts. How is this possible and what should i do?

DROPS Design 12.01.2019 kl. 15:03:

Dear Vasso, everyone knits somewhat differently, and the result might be somewhat different gauge as well. If you are getting fewer stitches, it means you knit too thightly. Try using bigger needles. Happy knitting!

Julia Kiely 29.11.2018 - 15:10:

Hello. Do I need to double the quantity of alpaca boucle (ie 550gms x 2 and buy 1100 gms) because the pattern requires 2 threads? 550 doesnt seem enough for an oversize sweater

DROPS Design 29.11.2018 kl. 15:17:

Dear Mrs Kiely, 1 strand Alpaca Bouclé - in 2nd size you would need 550 g Alpaca Bouclé working with 2 strands = 1540 m (11 balls x 140 m). Read more about alternatives here. Happy knitting!

Louise Marmoiton 28.11.2018 - 18:55:

Bonjour J'ai du mal à comprendre pour relever les mailles pour le col. Un chevauchement de 6 mailles ça ne me dit rien et de prendre les mailles en attente. Il n'y a pas de mailles en attente puis chaque partie les mailles ont été rabattus. Pourriez-vous m'éclairer svp? Merci

DROPS Design 29.11.2018 kl. 09:02:

Bonjour Mme Marmoiton, vous avez mis en attente pour l'encolure: les 16-17-18 m du milieu devant et les 26-27-28 m du milieu dos. Pour tricoter le col, commencez à l'épaule gauche, 3 cm avant la couture et relevez les mailles tout autour de l'encolure, puis quand vous arrivez aux premières mailles relevées, continuez encore sur 6 cm (vous arrêtez 3 cm après la couture d'épaule). Ce chevauchement de 6 cm va permettre de donner un beau retombé au col. Bon tricot!

Bev Mellor 05.04.2018 - 21:17:

Hi Please can you tell me which side is supposed to be the right side. I think the picture looks like the pearl side?

DROPS Design 05.04.2018 kl. 23:39:

Dear Bev, the sweater is knitted with stockinett stitch, with its knit side as the right side. The modell uses a bit of rustic, uneven looking boucle yarn that gives the appearance of having the purl side out. However, why don't you knit a swatch and see which side you prefer and use that as a RS in your piece? Happy Knitting!

Valerie Campen 27.02.2018 - 11:49:

Vanwege niet beschikbaar zijn van kleur 0100 zou ik dit model Island Girl met alpaca bouclé zwart 8903 wil maken. Welke kleur muskat kanik dan het beste kiezen. Verder is Cotton Viscose ook niet beschikbaar, daar zou ik moeten kiezen voor Baby Merino. Welke bijpassende kleur kies ik hier? vriendelijke groet, Valerie

DROPS Design 12.03.2018 kl. 10:54:

Hallo Valerie, Dit is een wat ouder patroon, waarvan inderdaad een aantal garensoorten uit de handel zijn. Welke kleur precies geschikt is als vervanging in combinatie met nader garen, kun je denk ik het beste even bekijken bij je verkooppunt.

Karin 29.11.2017 - 15:20:

Een asymmetrische col neem ik aan...

DROPS Design 30.11.2017 kl. 14:57:

Hallo Karin, Inderdaad asymmetrisch; de col wordt vanaf de linker schouder heen en weer gebreid, dus bij de linker schouder is de col open en bij der echter schouder dicht.

Karin 21.10.2017 - 21:45:

Ik ben benieuwd naar de col van deze trui, maar kan die niet goed zien vanwege de positie van het model op de foto. Hoe ziet de col er op de andere schouder uit?

DROPS Design 25.10.2017 kl. 10:27:

Hallo Karin, Opde andere kant van de schouder zit de col vast,zeg maar en aan de linker kant valt hijopen,zodat je een symmetrischecol hebt

SAIVIN NATHALIE 26.04.2017 - 20:34:

Bonjour; Je rencontre un problème concernant le col. En fait je ne comprends pas comment relever les mailles avec un chevauchement de 6 cm, soit 3cm de chaque côté. Dois je coudre les épaules se chevauchant ou existe t'il une méthode que je ne connais pas. Merci d'avance pour votre réponse Cordialement Nathalie

DROPS Design 27.04.2017 kl. 09:29:

Bonjour Nathalie, commencez à relever les mailles du col 3 cm avant la couture d'épaule gauche (= le long du dos), continuez à relever les mailles tout autour de l'encolure, puis relever ensuite des mailles encore pendant 6 cm, derrière celles que vous avez relevé au début du tour, vous aurez ainsi un chevauchement total de 6 cm, soit 3 cm avant l'épaule et 3 cm après l'épaule. Bon tricot!

Karin Lacey 12.01.2017 - 09:40:

In der Anleitung zu "Island Girl" ist als Material-Alternative DROPS Alpaca Bouclé von Garnstudio 500-550-600 g Farbe Nr. 0100, natur genannt, wobei mit 2 Fäden Alpaca Bouclé gestrickt werden soll. Reicht dann die angegebene Menge von 500-600 g aus?

DROPS Design 12.01.2017 kl. 16:52:

Liebe Frau Lacey, 2 Faden Garngruppe C (= Alpaca Bouclé) = 1 Faden Garngruppe E (= Big Bouclé), so daß man die Lauflänge kalkulieren muss - siehe auch hier. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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