DROPS / 180 / 17

Tangy Squares by DROPS Design

Crochet blanket with crochet squares. The piece is worked in DROPS Nepal.

  • Tangy Squares / DROPS 180-17 - Crochet blanket with crochet squares.
The piece is worked in DROPS Nepal.
  • Tangy Squares / DROPS 180-17 - Crochet blanket with crochet squares.
The piece is worked in DROPS Nepal.
  • Tangy Squares / DROPS 180-17 - Crochet blanket with crochet squares.
The piece is worked in DROPS Nepal.
  • Tangy Squares / DROPS 180-17 - Crochet blanket with crochet squares.
The piece is worked in DROPS Nepal.
DROPS Design: Pattern no ne-251
Yarn group C or A + A
Measurements: 125 cm x 100 cm. 1 square measures approx. 25 x 25 cm.
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300 g colour 0501, grey
300 g colour 0517, medium grey
200 g colour 2923, golden rod
100 g colour 0500, light grey
100 g colour 0100, off white

The piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group C)" – see the link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5.5 MM – or the size needed to get 14 treble crochets and 8.5 rows on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Nepal uni colour DROPS Nepal uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Nepal mix DROPS Nepal mix 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 44.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.

See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Diagram A.2 shows how the squares are laid out when sewn together.

To get a neat transition when changing colours, work the last slip stitch on the round with the new colour as follows: Insert the hook into the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round, pick up the new strand, make a yarn over with the new colour and pull it through the loops on the hook.


ROUNDS 1-2: 0100, off white
ROUNDS 3-4: 0501, grey
ROUNDS 5-7: 0100, off white
ROUNDS 8-9: 0501, grey

ROUNDS 1-2: 0501, grey
ROUNDS 3-4: 0517, medium grey
ROUNDS 5-7: 0501, grey
ROUNDS 8-9: 0517, medium grey

ROUNDS 1-2: 2923, golden rod
ROUNDS 3-4: 0517, medium grey
ROUNDS 5-7: 2923, golden rod
ROUNDS 8-9: 0517, medium grey

ROUNDS 1-2: 0517, medium grey
ROUNDS 3-4: 0501, grey
ROUNDS 5-7: 0517, medium grey
ROUNDS 8-9: 0501, grey

ROUNDS 1-2: 2923, golden rod
ROUNDS 3-4: 0500, light grey
ROUNDS 5-7: 2923, golden rod
ROUNDS 8-9: 0500, light grey

The blanket consists of 20 squares with 5 different colour combinations – READ SQUARE COLOURS. Work A.1B a total of 4 times around the chain-stitch ring, A.1A shows how each round starts and finishes – read COLOUR CHANGE! REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! Work a total of 4 squares in each colour combination. Cut and fasten all the strands. Sew the squares together in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch with grey – see A.2.


symbols = slip stitch
symbols = chain stitch
symbols = treble crochet in stitch
symbols = treble crochet around chain stitch/chain-space/chain-stitch ring
symbols = Work 4 chain stitches and form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch. The round starts by the point on the circle.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 180-17) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (17)

country flag Maria Luisa Casadei 03.03.2021 - 08:20:

Buongiorno vorrei solo gentilmente chiedere se fosse possibile avere una descrizione o grafico punto per punto su come realizzare la piastrella dall'inizio alla fine perchè non ci capisco niente e vorrei tanto realizzarla. Chiedo scusa se pretendo troppo. Grazie

user icon DROPS Design 03.03.2021 kl. 23:10:

Buonasera Maria Luisa, il grafico per la lavorazione della piastrella è in fondo alla pagina: si legge dal basso verso l'alto e da destra verso sinistra. Buon lavoro!

country flag Margo Molenaar 26.07.2020 - 16:20:

Bij het patroon Tangy Squares is geen geschreven patroon. Ik heb niet eerder met een dergelijk patroon gewerkt en snapte aanvankelijk niet dat het telpatroon slechts een kwart van het hele vierkant beslaat. Nu ik begrijp dat A1B slechts het eerste kwart is van het patroon, snap ik de aanwijzing: Haak A1B 4 keer om de lossenring. Ik denk dat het behulpzaam zou zijn om dat er bij te zetten én een plaatje erbij waar het patroon in zijn geheel te zien is.

country flag Patricia 26.06.2020 - 19:10:

Hermosa la manta, quiero hacerla!! Yo la voy a hacer de 125 cm x 200 cm Tengo una de ese tamaño tejida con cashmilon ( fibra sintética) y pesa 1600 kg Si la hiciera con el material que usaron pesaría 2200 entonces podrian decirme que cantides de cada color necesito en cashmilon?

user icon DROPS Design 29.06.2020 kl. 21:20:

Hola Patrícia. No conozco está calidad por lo tanto no puedo contestar a tu pregunta.

country flag Kasia 19.01.2020 - 16:30:

Bardzo piękny wzór ale bardzo trudno go zrobić z tego schematu.

country flag Anna 29.09.2019 - 10:34:

Per favore potrei avere la spiegazione scritta della coperta? Non riesco a far combaciare i quadrati con i disegni perché non li capisco. Grazie

user icon DROPS Design 29.09.2019 kl. 11:12:

Buongiorno Anna, non ci è possibile in questa sede darle la spiegazione scritta della coperta. Può però provare a guardare i nostri video tutorial o le nostre FAQ (domanda 10) in fondo alla pagina per un ulteriore aiuto. Guardi se questa lezione le può essere di aiuto.

country flag Anna 29.09.2019 - 10:24:

Vorrei la spiegazione passo passo al posto del disegno perché mi fa confondere. Grazie

user icon DROPS Design 29.09.2019 kl. 11:07:

Buongiorno Anna, purtroppo in questa sede non ci è possibile fornire un aiuto così personalizzato. Può però rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

country flag Lilli 27.01.2019 - 20:02:

De diagrammer er ikke lette at se, når man ser sårligt. Hvad er der galt med en skreven opskrift?

country flag Linda 25.12.2018 - 07:51:

Noen som har heklet teppe og som kan si noe om hvordan oppskriften stemmer på begynnelsen av omgangen? Synes ikke det blir pent med tre ekstra luftmasker.

user icon DROPS Design 03.01.2019 kl. 14:50:

Hei Linda. De 3 luftmaskene på begynnelsen av omgangen er der for at du skal "komme deg opp" på høyde med den første staven som skal hekles, slik at den går rett ned i/om masken under. Om du hekler 1 stav direkte fra kjedemasken på forrige omgang vil staven bli helt bøyd, da den er mye høyere enn der du da er. Det er altså derfor det er lagt inn 3 luftmasker på starten av hver omgang. Det vil dessverre alltid være litt synlig hvor omgangen starter/slutter når du hekler rundt på denne måten. Prøv å stramme tråden ordentlig før du hekler 1 stav slik at det ikke blir noe stort hull mellom luftmaskene og staven. God fornøyelse

country flag Jacqueline Parton 21.11.2018 - 07:35:

Please could you send me a written pattern would love to make but can’t figure out the graph thank you

user icon DROPS Design 21.11.2018 kl. 07:54:

Hi Jaqueline, I am afraid we do not have a written pattern for this blanket. Kind regards.

country flag Dolors 01.09.2018 - 20:24:

Como tengo que unir las Piezas en las esquinas Cuando se juntan cuatro Piezas?

user icon DROPS Design 02.09.2018 kl. 18:32:

Hola Dolors. Las mantas siempre las unimos de la siguiente manera: primero unimos los cuadrados en grupos en vertical de 2 en 2 y después en horizontal de la misma manera. Nunca unimos cuadrado por cuadrado individualmente.

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