Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
= dark rose | |
= light beige | |
= light brown | |
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over with dark rose, on the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes | |
= increase here |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Rosendal Jumper |
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Knitted jumper with round yoke and multi-colored Norwegian pattern, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Merino Extra Fine.
DROPS 181-2 |
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INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN: INCREASE TIP: To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the row (e.g. 87 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 15) = 5.8. In this example, increase after approx. every 6th stitch by making 1 yarn over, on the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes. ELEVATION (for back of neck): Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round (= mid back). Start from the right side and knit until you have worked 12-13-14-14-15-15 stitches past the marker, turn, tighten the strand and purl 24-26-28-28-30-30 stitches back. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 36-39-42-42-45-45 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 48-52-56-56-60-60 stitches. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 60-65-70-70-75-75 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 72-78-84-84-90-90 stitches, turn, tighten and knit to mid back. KNITTING TIP-1: To prevent the knitting gauge becoming tighter when you work pattern, it is important that the strands do not tighten at the back of the piece. You can increase a size when working pattern, if the pattern tightens. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.5. Choose diagram for your size. The whole of the pattern is worked in stockinette stitch. DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeve): Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased). ---------------------------------------------------------- JUMPER: The piece is worked in the round with circular needle from mid back and is worked top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle top down, change to double pointed needles when necessary. NECKLINE: Cast on 87-90-93-99-102-105 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and dark rose. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 1 / purl 2). When the rib measures 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm / 1⅛"-1⅛"-1⅛"-1½"-1½"-1½" knit 1 round where you increase 15-15-17-16-18-15 stitches evenly on round – read INCREASE TIP = 102-105-110-115-120-120 stitches. Continue working yoke as described below. YOKE: Change to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. Knit 1 round. For a better fit, you can now work an ELEVATION in the back of the neck – see description above. When the elevation has been completed, work A.1 in the round (= 17-21-22-23-24-24 repeats of 6-5-5-5-5-5 stitches). Continue the pattern in this way and increase as shown in the diagram. Read KNITTING TIP-1! REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When A.1 has been completed, there are 238-294-308-322-336-384 stitches on the needle and the piece measures approx. 12-14-14-16-16-18 cm / 4¾"-5½"-5½"-6¼"-6¼"-7" from the cast-on edge measured mid front. Continue working A.2 in the round, but on the first round (marked with arrow-1 in A.2) increase 28-14-14-28-42-22 stitches evenly on round = 266-308-322-350-378-406 stitches. Continue A.2 (= 19-22-23-25-27-29 repeats of 14 stitches). On the round marked with arrow-2 in A.2 increase 16-2-20-28-24-16 stitches evenly on round = 282-310-342-378-402-422 stitches. When A.2 has been completed, the piece measures approx. 24-25-26-28-30-32 cm / 9½"-9¾"-10¼"-11"-11¾"-12½" from the cast-on edge measured mid front. The next round is worked as follows with dark rose: Knit 42-46-49-55-61-65 stitches (= ½ back piece), place the next 58-64-74-80-80-82 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-10-14 new stitches on the needle (= in the side under the sleeve), knit the next 83-91-97-109-121-129 stitches (= front piece), place the next 58-64-74-80-80-82 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-10-14 new stitches on the needle (= in the side under the sleeve) and knit the remaining 41-45-48-54-60-64 stitches (= ½ back piece). Body and sleeves are now finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! BODY: = 182-198-214-238-262-286 stitches. Knit 1 round with dark rose and increase at the same time 10-6-14-2-2-2 stitches evenly on round = 192-204-228-240-264-288 stitches. Continue working A.3 (= 16-17-19-20-22-24 repeats of 12 stitches). On the round marked with arrow-3 in A.3 increase 12 stitches evenly on round in all sizes = 204-216-240-252-276-300 stitches. When A.3 has been completed, work A.4 in the round (= 34-36-40-42-46-50 repeats of 6 stitches). Continue with A.4 until the piece measures approx. 22-23-24-24-24-24 cm / 8¾"-9"-9½"-9½"-9½"-9½" from the separation for sleeves – adjust so that you have worked 2-4 rounds with dark rose after a round with "dots" – AT THE SAME TIME increase 12 stitches evenly in all sizes on the last round = 216-228-252-264-288-312 stitches. Now work A.5 in the round (= 18-19-21-22-24-26 repeats of 12 stitches). When A.5 has been completed, knit 1 round with dark rose where you increase 42-42-48-48-54-60 stitches evenly on round = 258-270-300-312-342-372 stitches. Work rib (= knit 1 and purl 2) until the rib measures 5 cm/2 inches. Now bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl, but to avoid a tight bind-off edge, you can make 1 yarn over after every 6th stitch at the same time as you bind off (the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches). The jumper measures approx. 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm / 23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"-26"-26¾"-27½" from the shoulder down. SLEEVE: Place the 58-64-74-80-80-82 stitches from the one side of the piece on short circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and, in addition, knit up 1 new stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-10-14 stitches cast on under the sleeve with dark rose = 66-72-84-90-90-96 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of these 8-8-10-10-10-14 stitches under the sleeve. Start the round by the marker thread and work A.3 in the round (= 5½-6-7-7½-7½-8 repeats of 12 stitches). When A.3 has been completed 1 time in height, continue with A.4 in the same way, but make sure that the dots are in the same place over A.3 as on the body. AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 2 cm / ¾" from the separation in all sizes, decrease 2 stitches mid under the sleeve – READ DECREASE TIP-1. Decrease in this way a total of 9-12-18-18-18-21 times; in S: Every 11th round, in M: Every 8th round, in L + XL: Every 5th round, in XXL: Alternately every 4th and 5th round and in XXXL: Alternately every 3rd and 4th round = 48-48-48-54-54-54 stitches. Continue A.4 until the piece measures approx. 36-36-35-34-32-31 cm / 14¼"-14¼"-13¾"-13½"-12½"-12¼" from the separation – adjust so that you have worked 2-4 rounds with dark rose after a round with "dots". Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 and work rib in the round (= knit 1 / purl 2) for 5 cm / 2". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl, but to avoid the bind-off edge being tight, make 1 yarn over after every 6th stitch at the same time as you bind off (the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches). The sleeve measures approx. 41-41-40-39-37-36 cm / 15¾"-16"-15¾"-15¼"-14½"-14¼" from the separation. Work the other sleeve in the same way. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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Comments / Questions (10)
Mariona wrote:
Hola! Las indicaciones dicen que el resorte del cuello y el de la cintura/puños es 1d/2r, sin embargo, en la foto me parecen distintos. ¿Cintura y puños no son en 2d/1r?
16.11.2021 - 08:56Patricia Fuchs wrote:
Ja, es bleibt mir nichts anderes übrig, als es einfach zu kalkulieren und zu probieren, bis ich zufrieden bin :-) Leider habt Ihr mit dieser Maschenprobe nicht sehr viel Auswahl. Es wäre im Allgemeinen super, wenn Ihr mehr Anleitungen für Männerpullover hättet. Ansonsten seid Ihr meistens die besten!!!!! Und Kompliment zu Drops Sky! Tolles Garn!
14.12.2018 - 13:08Patricia Fuchs wrote:
Ich stricke mit Nadeln 6, nehme Drops Sky zweifädig und komme dabei auf eine (gewaschene) Maschenprobe von 14x22. Für das Halsbündchen habe ich nun 76 M angeschlagen. Für einen Tipp, wieviele Maschen ich nun hinten als Erhöhung (Herrenpullover) stricken muss, wäre ich dankbar. Aber ich verstehe natürlich, dass Sie nicht für jede Anfrage Zeit haben.
14.12.2018 - 12:17DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Fuchs, leider können wir Ihnen nicht hier weiterhelfen - vielleicht können Sie die Breite jede verkürzte/verlängerte Reihe in diesem Modell kalkulieren und dann mit Ihrer Maschenprobe anpassen? Die Maschenprobe sollen Sie auch sicher in der Höhe mit kalkulieren. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
14.12.2018 - 12:50Patricia Fuchs wrote:
Wie berechnet man im Allgemeinen die Erhöhung im Nacken (ich stricke mit Drops Sky doppelfädig, also eine komplett andere Maschenprobe). Gibt es dafür eine Formel? Wie kommen Sie von 102 Maschen auf 12-24-36-48 usw.?? Wie berechnet man das, ganz allgemein? Ich habe mir schon sehr viele Drops-Anleitungen angesehen und egal, was ich dividiere, ich komme nicht dahinter.
14.12.2018 - 01:06DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Fuchs, leider können wir nicht jede Anleitung nach jeder individuellen Anfrage anpasse, am besten suchen Sie ein Modell mit Ihrer Maschenprobe und eine Erhöhung - Ihr DROPS Laden kann Ihnen in solchen Fällen weiterhelfen - auch telefonisch oder per E-Mail. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
14.12.2018 - 08:47Tamsin Growden wrote:
I've now finished the jumper but I've a lot of wool left over. I knitted the medium and it came out the correct size but I've got 2 full balls of dark rose and 1 full ball of light beige left. I'm used to having some wool remaining but this seems excessive!
11.04.2018 - 01:46Tamsin Growden wrote:
I'm just starting the sleeves on the jumper. Re the body there's no instruction to change to 3.5 mm needles for the rib even though the stitiches have been increased to allow for this. I used 3.5mm and cast off with 4mm needle and this looks right. I see that there's been an amendment to use chart A3 instead of A5 but 2 plain rows in rose need to be worked (to give a total of 3 rows between patt rows) before starting A3 to keep the pattern the same as the body.
22.03.2018 - 16:47Angela Bachels wrote:
Fehler: 1. Nackenerhöhung unvollständig beschrieben. 2. 7te Zunahme in A.1 zu stark, muss auf Reihen 23 und 28 aufgeteilt werden 3. Rumpfteil, letzte Zunahme vor dem Abschlussbund viel zu stark, selbst die Hälfte ist zuviel
13.01.2018 - 08:41Henriëtte wrote:
Moet de boordsteek van het lijf ook niet met naalden 3,5? Moet je de mouw niet beginnen met A3 (bovenaan mouw), i.p.v. met A5 zoals beschreven?
19.11.2017 - 12:46DROPS Design answered:
Hallo Henriëtte, Dit patroon is zo ontworpen dat je de boordsteek van het lijf in dezelfde naadl breit als de rest van het lijf. Als je de boord wat meer wilt laten aansluiten kun je er natuurlijk voor kiezen om een kleinere naald te gebruiken. Wat de mouw betreft denk ik dat je gelijk hebt om met A3 te beginnen. Ik geef het even door aan de ontwerpafdeling om te controleren.
06.02.2018 - 17:26Jana Hermann wrote:
Dobrý deň. Zdá sa mi, že v návode tak anglickom ako aj českom je chyba v časti rukáv. Podľa fotiek modelu by tam mal byť vzor A3 (korešponduje s trupom) a nie, ako je uvedené, A5. A5 je viditeľný len v spodnej časti trupu. Prosím, je môj postreh správny? Vopred ďakujem za odpoveď. Jana
02.11.2017 - 21:26Antje Heinzmann wrote:
Warum gibt es diese Anleitung nicht mehr in einem Heft zu kaufen, sondern nur noch im Internet?
10.09.2017 - 17:13DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Heinzmann, die Nachfrage nach Hefte war zu gering, weil die Kundinnen sich die Anleitung lieber direkt selber ausdrücken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
11.09.2017 - 09:02