DROPS / 180 / 1

Lemon Parfait by DROPS Design

Raglánový pulovr s listovým vzorem pletený z příze DROPS Cotton Merino. Velikost S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: model č. cm-067
Skupina přízí B
-----------------------------------------------------------
Velikost: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materiál:
DROPS COTTON MERINO firmy Garnstudio (spadá do skupiny přízí B)
450-450-500-550-600-700 g, barva č. 15, hořčicová

Použitou přízi můžete také nahradit některou ze seznamu:
"Náhradní příze (Skupina přízí B)" – viz link níže.

DROPS PONOŽKOVÉ JEHLICE a KRUHOVÉ JEHLICE (60 a 80 cm) č. 4 – nebo velikosti potřebné k upletení zkušebního vzorku o rozměrech 21 ok a 28 řad lícovým žerzejem = 10 cm na šířku a 10 cm na výšku.

DROPS PONOŽKOVÉ JEHLICE č. 3,5 na pružné lemy – nebo velikosti potřebné k upletení zkušebního vzorku o rozměrech 22 ok a 30 řad lícovým žerzejem = 10 cm na šířku a 10 cm na výšku.

Vyrobili jste si tento nebo nějaký jiný z našich modelů? Přidejte ke svým fotkám na sociálních sítích tag #dropsdesign - díky tomu je uvidíme i my!

Chcete použít jinou přízi? Zkuste náš převodník!
Nejste si jistí, kterou zvolit velikost? Třeba by vám pomohla informace, že modelka na obrázku je vysoká asi 170 cm a nosí velikost S nebo M. Pokud chcete plést/háčkovat pulovr, kabátek, šaty nebo podobný kousek, najdete dole pod návodem nákres s jednotlivými mírami v cm.

50% vlna, 50% bavlna
od 103.00 Kč /50g
DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour 103.00 Kč /50g
Ganella
Objednat
Jehlice a háčky
Přízi na tento model můžete mít už za 927Kč. Více zde.

Návod

VROUBKOVÝ VZOR:
Pleteme střídavě 1 kruhovou řadu hladce, 1 obrace. 1 vroubek = 2 kruhové řady.

VZOR:
Viz schéma A.1. Zvolte si schéma pro požadovanou velikost.

TIP – UJÍMÁNÍ (boky):
Začínáme 3 oka před značkou na boku: 2 oka spleteme hladce, 2 oka upleteme hladce (značka leží mezi nimi), 1 oko sejmeme hladce, 1 upleteme hladce a sejmuté přes ně přetáhneme.

TIP – PŘIDÁVÁNÍ:
V podpaží přidáváme takto – začínáme 1 oko před značkou: 1x nahodíme, 2 oka upleteme hladce (značka leží mezi nimi), 1x nahodíme. V následující kruhové řadě pleteme nahození za zadní nit, aby se v pletenině netvořily dírky.

RAGLÁNOVÉ ZKOSENÍ:
Ujímáme 2 oka v každém raglánovém “švu”, tj. ve všech místech, kde se stýkají rukávy s trupem (= v 1 kruhové řadě ujmeme 8 ok). Začínáme 3 oka před značkou: 2 oka spleteme hladce, 2 oka upleteme hladce (značka leží mezi nimi), 1 oko sejmeme hladce, 1 upleteme hladce a sejmuté přes ně přetáhneme.

TIP:
Pokud při pletení více utahujete a rozměry vašeho úpletu neodpovídají údajům ze zkušebního vzorku (tj. máte-li úplet hustší – vyšší počet řad na 10 cm výšky pleteniny), může být sedlo moc krátké a raglánový průramek těsný. Tomu lze předejít tím, že mezi raglánovým ujímáním upletete vždy v pravidelných rozestupech 1 kruhovou řadu navíc, bez ujímání.
----------------------------------------------------------

PULOVR:
Pleteme v kruhových řadách na kruhové jehlici zdola nahoru.

TRUP:
Na kruhovou jehlici č.4 nahodíme přízí Cotton Merino 212-228-248-268-292-316 ok a upleteme 2 VROUBKY – viz výše. Pokračujeme takto:
17-21-20-25-25-31 ok hladce, 3 oka obrace, *vzor A.1 (= 18-18-22-22-26-26 ok), 6 ok obrace*, *-* opakujeme celkem 2x, vzor A.1, 3 oka obrace, 34-42-40-50-50-62 ok hladce, 3 oka obrace, *vzor A.1, 6 ok obrace*, *-* opakujeme celkem 2x, vzor A.1, 3 oka obrace, 17-21-20-25-25-31 ok hladce. Označíme si začátek kruhové řady a druhou značku vložíme za 106.-114.-124.-134.-146.-158. oko = boky. V tomto rozvržení vzorů pokračujeme. Ve výši 8 cm ujmeme na obou stranách obou značek na bocích 1 oko (= ujmeme celkem 4 oka) – viz TIP - UJÍMÁNÍ! Takto ujímáme vždy po 4,5 cm výšky, celkem 7x – platí pro všechny velikosti = 184-200-220-240-264-288 ok.

Ve výši 39-39-39-39-39-39 cm uzavřeme na každém boku 8-8-10-10-12-14 ok (= 4-4-5-5-6-7 ok na obou stranách obou značek, průramky). Mezi značkami nyní leží 84-92-100-110-120-130 ok předního i zadního dílu.
Díl odložíme a upleteme rukávy.

RUKÁV:
Pleteme v kruhových řadách na ponožkových jehlicích, podle potřeby převedeme pleteninu s přibývajícícm počtem ok na krátkou kruhovou jehlici.
Na ponožkové jehlice č.3,5 nahodíme přízí Cotton Merino 48-52-56-56-60-64 ok a upleteme 1 kruhovou řadu hladce. Pokračujeme pružným vzorem 2/2, tj. střídáme 2 oka hladce, 2 obrace. Ve výši 6 cm převedeme pleteninu na ponožkové jehlice č.4. Pleteme 1 kruhovou řadu hladce a SOUČASNĚ ujmeme rovnoměrně 4-6-8-6-8-10 ok = 44-46-48-50-52-54 ok. Označíme si začátek kruhové řady (= střed podpaží). Pleteme lícovým žerzejem. Ve výši 10-7-7-10-7-7 cm přidáme uprostřed podpaží 2 oka – viz TIP - PŘIDÁVÁNÍ. Takto přidáváme vždy po 3-2,5-2-1,5-1,5-1,5 cm výšky, celkem 12-15-18-19-20-21x = 68-76-84-88-92-96 ok. Ve výši 46-45-43-42-40-39 cm uzavřeme uprostřed podpaží 8-8-10-10-12-14 ok = 60-68-74-78-80-82 ok.
Díl odložíme a stejným způsobem upleteme i druhý rukáv.

SEDLO:
Rukávy a trup převedeme na společnou kruhovou jehlici – rukávy přiložíme k trupu v místech uzavřených pro průramky = 288-320-348-376-400-424 ok. Označíme si “raglánové švy”, tj. všechna místa, kde se stýkají rukávy s trupem (= do pleteniny vložíme 4 značky). Pleteme vzorem jako dosud a SOUČASNĚ ujímáme pro RAGLÁN – viz výše: ujmeme 5-5-6-6-6-7x v každé 4. kruhové řadě, pak 14-16-18-21-23-24x v každé 2. kruhové řadě = ujmeme celkem 19-21-24-27-29-31x.

Po dokončení veškerého ujímání máme v kruhové řadě 136-152-156-160-168-176 ok. Pleteme 2 vroubky a SOUČASNĚ v 1. kruhové řadě spleteme 22-26-26-24-22-20 ok každého rukávu po 2 dohromady a k tomu ujmeme rovnoměrně 18-28-26-28-34-40 ok v kruhové řadě = 96-98-104-108-112-116 ok. Pak všechna oka hladce uzavřeme.

DOKONČENÍ:
Sešijeme otvory v podpaží.

Schéma

= hladce
= 1x nahodíme mezi 2 oky
= 2 oka spleteme hladce
= 1 oko sejmeme hladce, 1 upleteme hladce a sejmuté přes ně přetáhneme
= 3 oka spleteme hladce
= 1 oko sejmeme hladce, 2 oka spleteme hladce a sejmuté přes ně přetáhneme


Potřebujete poradit s tímto návodem?

Děkujeme, že jste si vybrali návod DROPS Design. Zakládáme si na tom, že dáváme k dispozici návody ověřené a snadno srozumitelné. Všechny návody jsou přeložené z norského originálu a tak si můžete kdykoli srovnat rozměry a počty s původním návodem (DROPS 180-1) .

Máte s návodem potíže? Níže najdete seznam odkazů, které vám pomohou dokončit vaše dílo co nejdříve - nebo se třeba přiučit něco nového.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

nahoru

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

nahoru

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

nahoru

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

nahoru

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

nahoru

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

nahoru

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

nahoru

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

nahoru

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

nahoru

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

nahoru

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

nahoru

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

nahoru

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

nahoru

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

nahoru

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

nahoru

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

nahoru

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

nahoru

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

nahoru

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

nahoru

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

nahoru

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

nahoru

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

nahoru

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

nahoru

Pořídili jste si přízi DROPS na tento model? Pak máte taky právo žádat po svém prodejci, u něhož jste nakoupili, pomoc a rady. Seznam DROPS obchodů najdete tady!
Pořád se nemůžete dobrat odpovědi, kterou hledáte? Pak posuňte stránku dolů a napište nám svůj dotaz, naši specialisté se vám pokusí poradit. Obvykle to zvládneme během 5 až 10 pracovních dnů.. Mezitím si můžete pročíst otázky a odpovědi, které k tomuto modelu položili ostatní, nebo navštívit skupinu DROPS Workshop na Facebooku, kde vám může poradit některá spřízněná duše!

Komentáře / Otázky (37)

Michelle 25.09.2020 - 13:13:

Bonjour. Ce modèle m interesse... j aimerais savoir si dans le dos vu qu il n y a pas de photo du dos. il y a de la dentelle ou est ce du jersey? merci 😁😁

DROPS Design 25.09.2020 kl. 14:38:

Bonjour Michelle, le point fantaisie ajouré est le même dans le dos que devant. Bon tricot!

Richard 27.01.2020 - 13:12:

HELP! I am in need of 3 x 50g balls of 'Drops Cotton Merino' - Colour 17- Dye Lot 52848. Any help or suggestions, gratefully received. Also, If I make a hat using Cotton Merino, but the pattern calls for 'Fingering Merino' will it make much difference?? Thank you. Richard.

DROPS Design 27.01.2020 kl. 14:24:

Dear Richard, please contact your DROPS store (and more stores if necessary) or even our DROPS Workshop - CottonMerino is a 8 ply/Dk/Worsted yarn - see shadecard - see here all patterns you can use for Cotton Merino. Happy knitting!

Richard 24.01.2020 - 15:28:

Sorry, the last comment should read with "I placed the marker to the side (on my RIGHT)!" Thanks.

Richard 24.01.2020 - 15:25:

Hi, Thanks for your replies & I've mastered the difficult start - as you say, with double-pointed needles. The raglan decreasing is another matter. As I look at the sleeve (to my left), I have placed a marker on the stitch nearest to the side. I have then placed another marker on the 1st stitch of the side (which is to my left). Now, you say to start 3 stitches before this marker- yes? Where to I start on the sleeve decrease, please.

DROPS Design 24.01.2020 kl. 16:04:

Dear Richard, you should have 1 marker between each piece; so if you look at the sleeve, there is 1 marker at the end of body (either back or front piece) = before the first stitch on sleeve and 1 marker at the end of sleeve, after the last stitch on sleeve = before the first stitch on front/back piece. Start 3 sts before the first of these 2 markers, K2 tog, = 1 stitch remain before marker, work this stitch + the next st (= first after marker) and dec = there are 2 sts decreased at the marker and K2 between the dec (with marker in the middle of these K2). Repeat at each marker. Happy knitting!

Richard 24.01.2020 - 12:29:

Hi, once more. I've placed markers at the sleeves & sides & now trying to knit the raglan decreases! I understand the pattern for instructions for the sides, but starting 3 stitches before the marker (does this include the marker), I end up, after the decrease, taking the first stitch of the sleeve. Your assistance once again would be very much appreciated. Thank you. Richard.

DROPS Design 24.01.2020 kl. 14:23:

Dear Richard, there should be 1 stitch on each side of marker on each piece between the raglan decreases, ie you will work at each transition: K2 tog (1 dec), K2 (= Knit the stitch before marker + the stitch after marker), slip 1 as if to K, K1, psso. So starting at the transition between back and one sleeve, you will start (and end) round with K1, Hope it helps, Happy knitting!

Richard 24.01.2020 - 10:15:

Good morning. I have completed the body & both sleeves. But now that I have joined them on one needle, I find that when trying to knit the sleeves, the stitches are stretched (almost impossible to do)! I've had to use double-pointed needles to help me out! I don't remember having this trouble when I made the first one of this pattern (in size medium). Please can you help. Thanks. Richard.

DROPS Design 24.01.2020 kl. 14:08:

Dear Richard, that's right, the first few rounds at the beginning of yoke can be somewhat tricky, you can use the double pointed needles or circular needles if you like to, after few rounds, all stitches will have enough place on the circular needle to work them on the round. Happy knitting!

Richard 13.01.2020 - 20:17:

Thank you for the reply to my question. I sent a sketch via email, showing how I was knitting the round. So, from what you are saying, I have to knit A1 (1st row), (only for the complete round)! Then for the next round, I have to knit A1 (2nd row), for the complete round! Then 3rd row, 4th row & so on.... This makes sense. Please can you confirm this for me.. Thanks a million. Richard.

DROPS Design 14.01.2020 kl. 07:50:

Dear Richard, that's how you should work the diagrams (row 1 in A.1 on all diagrams, then row 2 in A.1 on all diagrams and so on). Happy knitting!

Richard 13.01.2020 - 11:03:

Good morning, again. Continuing from the two Ridge rows, I began the round, as per your instructions. But, I find that the *A1* pattern, repeats 3 times (2 with odd row numbers, 1 even row number. in the first half, up to 124 stitches. But for the continuing *A1* pattern, there is only 1 odd number row! But, there are 2 even row numbers! Is this so? Please. Richard. I have made a drawing which explains better. If I may upload it.

DROPS Design 13.01.2020 kl. 11:34:

Dear Richard, not sure I'm getting this properly, when working A.1 in the round, you should work same round in each diagram all the round = round 1 A.1 when working round 1 on yoke, then work round 2 in A.1 and so on. What do I misunderstand?

Richard 09.01.2020 - 12:22:

Sadly, (Hi again). I'm still struggling after completing the two ridges! It is written that I knit 20, purl 3 (23 stitches), then *A1 (22 stitches, purl 6! (A1 = 10 rows @22 stitches) = 220 stitches. But adding the first 23 stitches to the 220 stitches = 243 stitches? Yet it is written, that I then purl 6! Doing this gives a total of 249 stitches! What am I doing wrong please? Forgive me, I am nearly 78 years old. Have a good day.

DROPS Design 09.01.2020 kl. 14:07:

Dear Richard, you should work the 248 sts in size L as follows: knit 20, purl 3, *A.1 (= 22 sts), purl 6*, repeat from *-* a total of 2 times (= 28 sts x 2= 56 sts), A.1 (= 22 sts), purl 3, knit 40 , purl 3, repeat from *-* (= 56 sts), A.1 (= 22 sts), purl 3, knit 20 = 20+3 + 56+22 + 3+40+3 + 56+22 +3+20=248 sts. Try to add markers between each section, it can help you to check the number of stitches. Happy knitting!

Richard 07.01.2020 - 22:07:

Hi (once again). This should be the last for awhile. I understand the A1 block now, working from the bottom up! But, please tell me: Do I follow the pattern from left to right or right to left?? I ask this, because, I am reading the block from right to left! I don't believe it makes much difference (but, there again, you are the Expert). Thank you. Richard.

DROPS Design 08.01.2020 kl. 09:04:

Dear Richard, diagrams are read bottom up starting from the right corner to the left, ie you will read every row in diagrams from the right towards the left (since you are working in the round) - read more about diagrams here (link is now working). Happy knitting!

Přidejte komentář k návodu DROPS 180-1

Rádi bychom věděli, co si o tomto modelu myslíte!

Pokud se chcete na něco zeptat, dbejte prosím na to, abyste ve formuláři níže vybrali správnou kategorii - díky tomu se dříve dozvíte, co potřebujete vědět. Povinná pole jsou označena *.