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  1. Free patterns
  2. Women
  3. Cardigans
  4. Boleros
  5. DROPS
  6. 178
  7. 48

My Generation by DROPS Design

Shoulder piece with crochet square and lace pattern, worked from mid back in DROPS Cotton Light. Sizes S - XXXL.

Keywords: bolero, granny square, lace, seamless sleeves, square

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DROPS 178-48
DROPS Design: Pattern no cl-074
Yarn group B
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Sizes: S/M – L/XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250-250-300-300 g colour 01, off white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 MM – or the size needed to get 20 treble crochets and 10 rows on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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50% Cotton, 50% Polyester 		from 1.15 £ /50g
DROPS Cotton Light uni colour DROPS Cotton Light uni colour 1.15 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.75£. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
At the beginning of every round/row with double crochets replace the first double crochet with 1 chain stitch. The round is finished with 1 slip stitch in the 1st chain stitch.
At the beginning of every round/row with treble crochets replace the first treble crochet with 3 chain stitches. The round is finished with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch.
At the beginning of every round/row with triple treble crochets replace the first triple treble crochet with 5 chain stitches. The round is finished with 1 slip stitch in the 5th chain stitch.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5.
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SHOULDER PIECE:
You first work a crochet square in the round, then work back and forth outwards on two of the sides for the sleeves. To finish you work an edge around the opening of the shoulder piece.

CROCHET SQUARE:
Start with hook size 3.5 mm and Cotton Light. Work the pattern according to diagram A.1b, a total of 4 times in the round. Diagram A.1a shows how the rounds start and finish – READ CROCHET INFO!
REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! When the whole of A.1a and A.1b have been completed in height, the crochet square measures approx. 23 x 23 cm. Cut the strand.
Start in the double crochet marked with a star on the last round in A.1b (= 4th double crochet before the corner). Work from the 3rd round in the diagrams as follows: Work A.2a in the double crochet (A.2a shows how the round starts and finishes), work A.2b over the first 3 chain-spaces, * work A.2c (= corner), work A.2b over the next 9 chain-spaces (= 3 repeats) *, repeat from *-* 2 more times, work A.2c in the corner and finish with A.2b over the remaining 6 chain-spaces in the round (= 2 repeats). When the last round in A.2a to A.2c has been completed, the crochet square for size S/M is finished and there are 75 treble crochets on each side of the square.

In sizes L/XL, XXL and XXXL work from the 2nd round in the diagrams as follows: Work A.3a (shows how the round starts and finishes), work A.3b the whole round but in each corner work A.3c. Work the last 2 rounds a total of 1-2-3 times in height, AT THE SAME TIME in sizes L/XL and XXL adjust the number of stitches on the last round worked, so that there are 91 treble crochets in each size on each of the 2 sides marked with stars (SEE SKETCH!).

The crochet square measures approx. 38-42-46-50 x 38-42-46-50 cm.

THE SIDE AND THE SLEEVE:
Work slip stitches up to the first chain-space in the corner.
Now work back and forth along the one side of the crochet square in the different sizes. Start on the 2nd row in the diagrams and work as follows:
Sizes S/M and XXXL:
Work A.2a around the chain-space in the corner, work A.2b over the next 75-105 treble crochets (= 5-7 repeats), work A.2a around the chain-space in the corner.
Sizes L/XL and XXL:
Work A.4a (first stitch is worked around the chain-space in the corner), work A.2b over the next 75-75 treble crochets (= 5-5 repeats), work A.4b (the last stitch is worked around the chain-space in the corner).

ALL SIZES:
Turn and work back and forth until the diagrams have been worked in height. Then work from the diagrams from the 2nd row 1 more time in height, AT THE SAME TIME on the last row adjust the number of stitches so that there will be 77-92-92-107 treble crochets on row.
Now work the sleeve from the 2nd row in the diagrams as follows: Work A.5a over the first 11 treble crochets, work A.5b over the next 55-70-70-85 treble crochets, work A.5c = 15-18-18-21 chain-spaces. When the diagrams have been worked in height, 1 chain-space has been decreased in each side = 13-16-16-19 chain-spaces. Start on the 2nd row in the diagrams and work A.5d (shows how the row starts and finishes), work A.5b 13-16-16-19 times and finish with A.5d. Work the diagrams from the 2nd row a total of 1-1-2-2 times in height.
Fold the piece so that the sides marked with A – see the sketch, meet each other. Start outermost by the sleeve (last row worked) and crochet through both layers as follows: * work 1 double crochet around both layers, 3 chain stitches, skip approx. 1 cm *, repeat from *-* along side A down to the first row of A.5a-A.5c. Cut and fasten the strand.

Work the other side and sleeve in the same way, but you are now working sides B together. Do not cut the strand!

EDGE:
Work an edge around the opening on the shoulder piece. Start on the 2nd round in A.5d and A.5b and work as follows:
Work A.5d, * work A.5b, skip approx. 2.5 cm/5 treble crochets *, repeat from *-* the whole round in the round. When the diagrams are completed in height, repeat the diagrams from the 2nd row 0-0-1-1 times more in height. Cut and fasten the strand.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 18.09.2017
ALL SIZES:
Turn and work back and forth until the diagrams have been worked in height. Then work from the diagrams from the 2nd row 1 more time in height, AT THE SAME TIME on the last row adjust the number of stitches so that there will be 77-92-92-107 treble crochets on row...

Diagram

symbols = Work 4 chain stitches and form them to a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch
symbols = 1 chain stitch
symbols = 1 double crochet around chain-space/between 2 treble crochets
symbols = 1 double crochet in stitch
symbols = The round begins with 1 chain stitch and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 1st chain stitch at beginning of the round, then work slip stitches up to the 2nd chain-space
symbols = Work 2 treble crochets together around the chain-stitch ring/chain-space as follows: Work 1 treble crochet, but wait with the last pull through, work 1 more treble crochet, but at the last pull through, pull the strand through all the loops on the hook
symbols = The round begins with 3 chain stitches and is finished with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round, then work slip stitches up to the first chain-space
symbols = 1 treble crochet around chain-space
symbols = 1 treble crochet in stitch
symbols = 1 half treble crochet around chain-space/ between 2 triple treble crochets
symbols = 1 double treble crochet around chain-space
symbols = 1 triple treble crochet in stitch/around chain-space
symbols = When A.1 has been worked in height, cut the strand. Then continue with pattern from this double crochet – see description in text
symbols = When the last round in A.3a to A.3b is worked, adjust the number of stitches on the 2 sides with stars shown on the sketch - see description in the text!
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 178-48) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (34)

country flag Halle wrote:

It looks like there is a collar in the pics but I don't see what looks like those descriptions in the pattern or diagram? It also looks like there are extra rows at the bottom back but I don't see those either. Are those instructions somewhere and am I just missing it? Thank you!

18.09.2022 - 00:32

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Halle, the whole piece is made up by a central square (which includes what seems like a collar and the extra rows at the bottom), the sleeves and an edge around the opening of the shoulder piece (the crochet square) which is also part of the collar and the bottom back. Happy crochetting!

18.09.2022 kl. 18:36

country flag Simona wrote:

E' quello che ho fatto ma non viene come in foto. Lascio perdere disfo e farò altro. Mi spiace ma le vostre spiegazioni nell'esecuzione sono davvero poco chiare e molto difficili da capire ed è un peccato perchè i modelli sono belli

27.07.2022 - 15:17

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Simona, ci dispiace leggere il suo commento: i modelli DROPS vengono realizzati ogni giorno da centinaia di persone in tutto il mondo. Per un'assistenza più personalizzata può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

27.07.2022 kl. 18:48

country flag Simona wrote:

Ci rinuncio. Non capisco fino a che punto va piegata la manica e poi come fare il bordo finale. Ho provato e non viene teso e dritto ma tipo sacco

27.07.2022 - 08:42

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Simona, deve piegarla in modo che i due lati indicati con A nello schema delle misure in fondo alla pagina combacino, poi lavorarla per cucirla. Buon lavoro!

27.07.2022 kl. 15:11

country flag Simona wrote:

Quello lo avevo capito. Quello che non capisco è come cusire le maniche e fare il bordo finale

26.07.2022 - 18:02

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Simona, deve piegare a metà la manica e cucirla ripetendo la sequenza indicata: 1 maglia bassa in entrambi gli strati, 3 catenelle, saltare circa 1 cm. Buon lavoro!

26.07.2022 kl. 18:14

country flag Simona wrote:

Il modello è il 178-48 My Generation Dopo aver fatto il quadrato e il pezzo delle maniche per ogni lato con la stella non capisco come devo proseguire

25.07.2022 - 08:38

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Simona, per lavorare il lato, deve partire dell'arco di catenelle in un angolo e lavorare come riportato nel paragrafo "LATI E MANICHE" per la sua taglia, iniziando dalla 2° riga dei diagrammi. Buon lavoro!

26.07.2022 kl. 16:19

country flag Simona wrote:

Buongiorno, non riesco a capire come cucire le maniche e poi fare il bordo. E' davvero incomprensibile

20.07.2022 - 11:15

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Simona, a quale parte del modello sta facendo riferimento in particolare? Buon lavoro!

23.07.2022 kl. 14:22

country flag Christina Straut wrote:

I feel your diagrams would be more helpful & coherent if the entire section was shown instead of just pieces. Not everyone can cognitively handle putting together pieces in their mind; those people rely on written patterns to compartmentalize the information for them. Visual information such as a diagram, is often an impediment when presented in a disconnected or oversimplified form.

13.03.2022 - 18:46

country flag Zhel wrote:

Do you have written pattern not diagram?

12.06.2021 - 15:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Zhel, no there is no written put version, not only because the pattern is available in many languages, but also, because we belive that with charts you can not only see the very next step, but the bigger picture as well, like how the stitches and rows relate to each other "en large". We do have a lesson on how to read a crochet pattern here. Happy Stitching!

12.06.2021 kl. 22:26

country flag Ana wrote:

Buenas tardes, Trabajando las mangas, después de hacer 5d-5b (16 veces)-5d, el patrón indica: "trabajar los diagramas desde la segunda fila un total de 2 veces (talla xxl) en vertical. Pero ¿se refiere a trabajar dos veces desde " 5a sobre los primeros 11 puntos altos..." o desde "trabajar 5d, 5b 16 veces.....??

26.09.2020 - 01:05

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Ana. Repetir 2 veces en vertical se refiere a los diagramas 5d-5b(16 veces)-5d.

30.09.2020 kl. 21:26

country flag Ligot wrote:

J ai realisé le carre sans souci mais je ne comprends absolument pas comment faire côtés et manches. Pourriez vous m expliquer sv p et un petit croquis m aiderait bien. Merci

25.10.2019 - 22:24

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Ligot, quand le carré est terminé, on crochète le long de l'un des 2 côtés seulement pour la 1ère manche (côté A, à partir de l'étoile), puis côté B à partir de l'étoile. Chacune des manches se fait séparément, en allers et retours le long de ces deux côtés. Bon crochet!

04.11.2019 kl. 11:42

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