DROPS / 175 / 5

Peach Sorbet by DROPS Design

Crochet jacket with seamless sleeves in DROPS Paris. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no w-622
Yarn group C or A + A
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Sizes: S/M - L/XL - XXL/XXXL
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
550-650-800 g colour 01, apricot

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5.5 MM – or the hook size needed to get 13 treble crochet on 10 cm in width. Pattern A.1B measures approx. 7 cm in width and A.x measures approx. 6.5 cm in height.
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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3.
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JACKET:
The piece is worked back and forth. It is worked from the bottom up, the piece is then divided at the armhole and the front and back pieces are worked separately, with the sleeves.

THE BODY:
Work 278-334-390 chain stitches with hook size 5.5 mm and Paris. Then work as follows starting from the right side: A.1a, A.1b in total 19-23-27 times, finish with A.1c. Continue in this way until A.1 is completed in height, then repeat A.x upwards – REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
Continue in this way until the piece measures approx. 38-38-44 cm, finish after the row 3 in A.x (= row from the wrong side). Then work row 4 in A.x as follows, from the right side: Work A.1a, A.1b in total 6-7-8 times (= right front piece), insert 1 marker in the last chain stitch, work A.1b in total 7-9-11 times (= back piece), insert 1 marker in the last chain stitch, work A.1b in total 6-7-8 times, finish with A.1c (= left front piece). Now divide the piece and each part is worked separately – do not cut the strand.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
The next row (= row 1 in A.x) is worked as follows from the wrong side: Work A.1c, A.1b in total 6-7-8 times, finish with 34-34-20 chain stitches for the sleeve. Turn. Next row (= row 2 in A.x and row 1 in A.2) works as follows, from the right side: Work A.2a, A.2b in total 2-2-1 times, A.1b in total 6-7-8 times, finish with A.1c. Continue in this way until A.2 is completed in height.
Next row (= row 1 in A.x) is worked as follows, from the wrong side: Work A.1c, A.1b in total 8-9-9 times, finish with A.1a. Continue by repeating A.x in height until the piece measures approx. 60-66-72 cm, adjust so that the last row is row 4 in A.x (= row from the right side). Work the shawl-collar.

SHAWL-COLLAR:
Next row (= row 1 in A.x) is worked as follows, from the wrong side: Work A.1c, A.1b in total 3-3-3 times, finish with A.1a. Turn. Continue upwards until A.x is completed in height and then work rows 1 and 2 of A.x 1 more time in height. Cut and fasten the strand.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Next row (= row 1 in A.x) is worked as follows, from the wrong side: Work 34-34-20 chain stitches for the sleeve, continue over the right front piece as follows: A.1b in total 6-7-8 times, finish with A.1a. Turn.
Next row (= row 2 in A.x and row 1 in A.3) is worked as follows, from the right side: Work A.1a, A.1b in total 6-7-8 times, A.3a in total 2-2-1 times, finish with A.3b. Continue in this way until A.3 is completed in height.
Next row (= row 1 in A.x) is worked as follows, from the wrong side: Work A.1c, A.1b in total 8-9-9 times, finish with A.1a. Repeat A.x in height until the piece measures approx. 60-66-72 cm – adjust to the left front piece. Last row is row 4 in A.x (= row from the right side). Cut the strand and work the shawl-collar in the same way as for the left front piece, but reversed, so you work over the last 12 chain-spaces starting from the wrong side.

BACK PIECE:
Next row (= row 1 in A.x) is worked as follows, from the wrong side: Work 34-34-20 chain stitches for the sleeve, continue over the back piece and work A.1b in total 7-9-11 times, finish with 34-34-20 chain stitches for the sleeve. Turn.
Next row (= row 2 in A.x and row 1 in A.2 and A.3) is worked as follows, from the right side: Work A.2a, A.2b in total 2-2-1 times, A.1b in total 7-9-11 times, A.3a in total 2-2-1 times, finish with A.3b. Continue in this way until A.2 and A.3 are completed in height.
Next row (= row 1 in A.x) is worked as follows, from the right side: Work A.1a, A.1b in total 11-13-13 times, finish with A.1c. Repeat A.x in height until the piece measures approx. 60-66-72 cm – adjust to the front pieces. Last row is row 4 in A.x (= row from the right side). Cut and fasten the strand.

ASSEMBLY:
Lay the front piece on the back piece, right side to right side and crochet the shoulders together as follows: 1 double crochet through both layers, * 3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around the next chain-space around both layers *, repeat from *-* along the whole shoulder/sleeve and finish with 1 double crochet. Do not work over the middle 5 chain-spaces, the collar will be attached here later. Repeat on the other shoulder.
Crochet together under the sleeves as follows: * 1 double crochet around the next chain-space around both layers, 3 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 double crochet.

ASSEMBLING COLLAR:
Lay the uppermost edge/last round on the right shawl-collar against the uppermost edge/last round on the left shawl-collar and sew together with small stitches edge to edge. Then sew the side of the collar to the neck.

Diagram

= chain stitch
= double treble crochet in stitch
= double treble crochet around the chain-space
= work 1 double treble crochet in the first chain stitch, but wait with the last yarn over and pull through, work 1 double treble crochet in the next chain stitch and pull the last yarn over through all 3 loops on the hook (= 1 stitch)
= work 1 double treble crochet around the first chain-space, but wait with the last yarn over and pull through, work 1 double treble crochet around the next chain-space and pull the last yarn through all 3 loops on the hook
= work 1 double treble crochet over the chain-space and down in the stitch from the together-worked double treble crochets on the row below the chain-space
= double crochet in stitch
= the row has already been worked. Start on next row!
= start here



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 175-5) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (20)

Ellen Blom 24.07.2019 - 15:08:

Ik begrijp niet wat er bij de tekening 14 cm breed is? Enhoe breed is de sjaalkraag?

DROPS Design 24.07.2019 kl. 20:26:

Dag Ellen,

De 14 cm is de breedte vanaf waar de hals begint bij de linker schouder tot waar de hals ophoudt bij de rechter schouder. De totale breedte van de sjaalkraag staat inderdaad niet aangegeven in de tekening, maar de stippellijn is middenvoor, dus de hand van wat je over houdt (aantal steken bedoel ik) als je de helft van de steken van het achterpand van een voorpand aftrekt, dan weet je hoe breed de sjaalkraag is.

Patsy Gadberry 27.06.2019 - 17:07:

The photo of the jacket from the back shows the crocheted shoulder seam on the outside of the jacket. However, the instructions say, "Lay the front piece on the back piece, right side to right side and crochet the shoulders together," which would put the crocheted seam on the inside of the jacket instead of the outside.

Patsy Gadberry 11.10.2018 - 13:42:

I found in making the jacket that the techniques used in making the motifs pull inward and take out some of what seems at first to be extra width. Measurement for size is not accurate until several rows have been completed. Very pretty jacket!

Patsy Gadberry 22.05.2018 - 14:06:

Okay, gauge is 13 double crochets equals 10 cm / 4". To make 13 dc you have 13 chains, so by your gauge 13 chains equal 4". In that gauge you have 25 chains across the bottom of pattern A.1b, which would be 8" (not 2 3/4") across the bottom of A.1B, lacking one chain. With 334 chains (specified for L/XL) you would end up with a garment measuring 102.77" or 261.04 cm around the bottom! How many chains are truly supposed to be done to start (not 334) or what is the true gauge?

DROPS Design 22.05.2018 kl. 15:26:

Dear Mrs Gadberry, A.1b should be 7 cm in width, in 2nd size you work 23 times A.1b (= A.1a at the beg of row and A.1c at the end of row, ie approx. 1 more repeat) so that you will have approx. 24 repeats x 7 cm = 168 cm in total. As you can see in the measurement chart, both front piece will be quite larger than the half of back piece: back piece is 9 repeats and front piece are each 7 repeats + A.1a/c. Pattern is correct as it is, but feel free to adjust it to your own measurements if you like to. Happy crocheting!

Patsy Gadberry 19.05.2018 - 07:26:

I am making size L/XL, but the pattern calls for 334 chains--I believe that is wrong. It makes up into something that would wrap around a person 2 or 3 times. When I made a blanket that was 80" wide, I used only 258 chains. The numbers of starting chains for all sizes in the pattern are in error! Can you please tell how many start chains there are actually supposed to be for L/XL? Thank you!

DROPS Design 22.05.2018 kl. 10:28:

Dear Mrs Gadberry, make sure you get the correct tension, ie 13 double crochet on 10 cm / 4'' in width. Pattern A.1B measures approx. 7 cm / 2¾'' in width and A.x measures approx. 6.5 cm / 2½'' in height - and you'll get the measurements shown in the measurement chart (= in cm, taken flat from side to side). Happy crocheting!

Althea M Kirby 12.05.2018 - 16:52:

How many skeins does this pattern require?

DROPS Design 14.05.2018 kl. 11:53:

Dear Mrs Kirby, you will find total weight of yarn required in each size under the header, ie 550-650-800 g DROPS Paris color 01, apricot - DROPS Paris = 50 g a skein, so that you will need 550/50= 11 balls in first size. Happy crocheting!

Alexandra 06.05.2018 - 18:25:

Ook ik heb het zelfde als Au3, Keurig netjes aan het schema gehouden, en na 4 toeren meet ik ruim 2 meter. Proeflapje was bij mij ook oke. Ga het uithalen en opzetten met haaknaald 5 en verder haken met 4,5 denk ik. Mijn vraag is dan ook, klopt de maat van de haaknaald wel? Is 5,5 niet erg groot?

DROPS Design 08.06.2018 kl. 13:03:

Dag Alexandra, Controleer even goed of de stekenverhouding voor jou klopt en maak evt. een nieuw proeflapje met een kleinere naald totdat het proeflapje klopt. Een herhaling van A.1b meet 7 cm in de breedte. Bij de kleinste maat kom je op een breedte van ongeveer 140 cm. Een kleine afwijking in de stekenverhouding kan in dit geval een groot effect hebben.

Jessica V 15.04.2018 - 19:21:

Bonjour, Après quelques rang je me retrouve avec une très longue pièce. le début du modèle représente donc l’ arrière et un des côtés avant (vertical) Ou cela représente l’arriere Et les deux côtés donc représente le bas du gilet horizontalement ? Je suis un peu perdue car je ne visualise pas la partie que je fait et j’ ai donc peur de me retrouver avec un gilet bien trop grands pour moi alors que je suis les explications en l-xl à la lettre.

DROPS Design 16.04.2018 kl. 09:42:

Bonjour Jessica V., le gilet se crochète de bas en haut, vous crochetez en même temps le devant droit, le dos et le devant gauche (vu sur l'endroit), jusqu'aux emmanchures, puis terminerez chaque partie (chaque devant et le dos) séparément. Bon crochet!

K Gustavsson 23.01.2018 - 09:26:

Håll inte händerna så det skymmer diagrammet

Au3 16.07.2017 - 22:03:

Ik ben dit vest in maat L/XL aan het maken en vraag mij af of de afmetingen wel kloppen. Mijn proeflapje was prima op maat en ook het patroon vormt geen probleem (heb ik nog gecontroleerd met de video van het patroon), maar nu ik de lossenketting en de eerste toeren heb gehaakt, meet mijn werkstuk ruim 2 meter... Dit lijkt mij niet de bedoeling. 334 lossen lijkt me ook wel wat veel van het goede. Klopt alles in het patroon wel? Zo ja, wat zou ik dan verkeerd gedaan kunnen hebben?

DROPS Design 17.07.2017 kl. 18:17:

Hoi Au3, Een herhaling van patroon A.1B meet 7 cm in de breedte en voor jouw maat heb je 23 herhalingen van A.1B (= 14 lossen) plus A.1A en A.1C (samen 12 steken). Dan kom ik op ongeveer 24 herhalingen van 7 cm = 168 cm. Met de overslagen op het voorpand zou dat ongeveer moeten kloppen. Vermoedelijk is er dan toch ergens iets mis gegaan, maar het aantal op te zetten lossen klopt wel. Misschien moet je nog even goed controleren of je iets over het hoofd hebt gezien bij het haken in patroon.

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