DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 1.15 £ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.60£. Read more.
DROPS 175-23
DROPS Design: Pattern no cl-077
Yarn group B
Height: 21 cm
Width: 20 cm

DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
50 g colour 28, yellow
50 g colour 30, dark grey
50 g colour 02, white
50 g colour 21, light beige

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3 MM – or the size needed to get 22 double crochets and 22 rows on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.


Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 1.15 £ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows:
Start 2 double crochets before the marker thread, work 2 double crochet in the next double crochet, work 2 double crochets, the marker thread sits between these double crochets and work 2 double crochets in the next double crochet.

See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show the colours in the pattern. 1 square = 1 double crochet.

COLOUR PATTERNS (worked in the round): 
When changing colours, work as follows: Begin on the last double crochet with the first colour, but wait with the last pull through, change to the next colour and work the last pull through, then work the next double crochet. When working with two colours, lay the strand of the colour not being used over the stitches from the previous round and work around the strand so that it is hidden and always available when needed.

The first double crochet of the round is replaced by 1 chain stitch, finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch.

The piece is worked in the round with double crochets. First work the bottom with increases. Then work A.1 and A.2 upwards without increases. At the top, work a row of holes for the cords.

Work 35 chain stitches with hook size 3 mm and light beige.
Work double crochets down along the one side of the chain stitch row as follows: skip the first chain stitch, work 2 double crochets in the next chain stitch, then work 1 double crochet in each of the next 32 chain stitches, in the last chain stitch work 2 double crochets, insert 1 marker thread = middle of the side. Turn and continue working from the other side of the chain stitch row. Work 2 double crochets in the first chain stitch, then work 1 double crochet in each of the next 32 chain stitches and finish with 2 double crochets in the first chain stitch which was worked in at the beginning of the round and 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet on the round. Insert 1 marker thread = middle of the side. There are now 72 double crochets on the round.
READ CROCHET INFO! Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet from the previous round, at the same time increase 4 double crochets on each round – READ INCREASE TIP. Work 5 rounds in this way = 92 double crochets.

Continue to work in the round with double crochets, but without increases and work according to A.1 (= 23 repeats in width). READ COLOUR PATTERNS! On the last round in A.1 decrease 2 double crochets evenly along the round = 90 double crochets. Continue working with A.2 (= 3 repeats in width). On the round with the arrow, work a row of holes as follows: Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 2 double crochets, * work 2 chain stitches, skip the next 2 double crochets, 1 double crochet in each of the next 2 double crochets*, repeat from *-* the whole round. On the next round work 1 double crochet in each double crochet and 2 double crochets around each chain-space. Finish working A.2. Cut and fasten the strands.

Work 3 cords, 1 with white, 1 with light beige and 1 with yellow as follows: Work 1 row with chain stitches until the cord measures 130 cm. Tie the cords to the bag with a knot on the inside in each side of the bag, in the round with holes.


symbols = white
symbols = yellow
symbols = light beige
symbols = dark grey
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (25)

country flag Ana wrote:

Buenas noches, si quisiera hacer este bolso en un tamaño más grande cual seria el. Número de cadenetas al final, o cual es el múltiplo de número para ir aumentando el tamaño. Espero darme a entender con la pregunta

03.02.2024 - 05:23

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Ana, ten en cuenta que necesitarás repeticiones completas de A.2 para que el bolso quede bonito. Así que, a la hora de hacer el bolso más grande, tienes que tener en cuenta el número de puntos en una repetición de A.2 e incrementar el número de cadenetas iniciales a partir de ellos. Nosotros no hacemos patrones personalizados.

04.02.2024 - 22:54

country flag María Serrano wrote:

En todas las vueltas el primer punto de la vuelta se sustituye por una cadeneta y el último se sustituye por un punto enano en esa primera cadeneta? Hay Algún video para verlo? Gracias

14.07.2021 - 20:24

DROPS Design answered:

Hola María Serrano, el último punto no se sustituye por un punto enano; este se trabaja después del último punto. A continuación tienes un vídeo que te puede servir de apoyo: https://www.garnstudio.com/video.php?id=312&lang=es

15.07.2021 - 00:05

country flag Miranda wrote:

Ik blijf de bodem fout doen. Toer 1 lukt. Maar verschillende manier geprobeerd om te meerdere, maar het patroon (de naad) word daardoor schreef. Kortom kun je uitleggen hoe toer 2 precies gaat, stapje voor stapje? Aan het begin heb ik een markeerdraad, en in het midden. Ik neem aan dat daar beide 2 gemeerderd moeten worden, maar hoe... Patroon is hierin best lastig te ontcijferen. 1e losse tel ik trouwens mee in de telling. Alvast bedankt!

13.06.2021 - 19:15

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Miranda,

De tas wordt in de rondte gehaakt, dus na het haken van de 35 lossen sluit je de toer. Dan keer je het werk en haak je terug. Dit doe je elke keer, dus de toer sluiten en dan het werk keren. Je hebt 2 markeerdraden in het werk en je meerdert voor en na de markeerdraden. Je begint 2 steken voor de markeerdraad, dan haak je 2 vasten in 1 steek, 1 vaste in de volgende steek, markeerdraad, 1 vaste in de volgende steek, 2 vasten in de volgende steek. Dit doe je ook bij de andere markeerdraad.

24.06.2021 - 09:47

country flag Mary Manoly wrote:

Hello cannot figure out how to place the cords shoul i make only 3 or 6 thank you for all you effort

26.10.2020 - 04:06

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Mary, You work 3 cords, which are tied on the inside of the round of holes. They are fastened close together on one side and then again on the other. Happy crocheting!

26.10.2020 - 06:49

country flag Sonja Schuler wrote:

Vielen Dank hab es jetzt verstanden. Nur noch eine Frage muss ich nach der KM LM in die nächste Masche verdoppeln oder in die gleiche Masche wo die LM ist?

24.09.2019 - 17:05

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Schuler, die erste feste Masche der Runde wird durch 1 Luftmasche ersetzt (siehe HÄKELINFO), aber wenn Sie lieber diese Luftmasche extra häkeln möchten, dann verdoppeln Sie die 1. Feste Masche. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

25.09.2019 - 08:50

country flag Sonja Schuler wrote:

Leider versteh ich nicht wo ich die Zunahmen häkeln muss.

24.09.2019 - 15:47

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Schuler, am Anfang der Tasche nehmen Sie 4 Maschen bzw 2 Maschen auf beiden Seiten von jedem Markierungsfaden zu - siehe ZUNAHMETIPP. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

24.09.2019 - 16:25

country flag Eva Calderón Moreno wrote:

Hola, el primer punto bajo de cada vuelta se sustituye por uno de cadeneta, este punto cuenta para el diagrama?. gracias.

02.09.2018 - 11:39

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Eva. Mira la INFORMACIÓN PARA LA REALIZACIÓN DEL TRABAJO, al inicio de la vuelta el 1er punto bajo se sustituye por 1 punto de cadeneta y es el primer punto del diagrama.

02.09.2018 - 18:27

country flag Cristina wrote:


31.08.2017 - 00:12

country flag Cristina wrote:

Buenas. No consigo saber cómo colocar los cordones. Tengo hechos los ojales y los cordones, pero no consigo colocarlos en el bolso y no he encontrado ningún video explicativo. me podríais ayudar? Por cierto queda muy chulo el dibujo!! Gracias

29.08.2017 - 10:40

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Cristina. Los 3 cordones (= 1 de cada color) se insertan de fuera hacia dentro en la fila de los ojales en un lado lateral, después, se hace un nudo en el extremo interior de los cordones (Atención: el nudo queda dentro de la bolsa). Repetir en el otro lado.

29.08.2017 - 18:14

country flag Perinelli Vanessa wrote:

Bonjour, je suis entrain de commencer ce magnifique model et je pense qu'il y a une petite erreur dans le première ligne. il est inscrit : "crocheter 2 mailles en l'air dans la maille en l'air suivante" et je pense que c'est "crocheter 2 mailles serrées dans le maille en l'air suivante" bref rien de grave puisque l'on comprend facilement que ce sont des mailles serrées. merci pour tous ces merveilleux models

30.07.2017 - 14:09

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Perinelli, merci pour votre retour, la correction a été faite. Bon crochet!

31.07.2017 - 11:02