Holiday Project by DROPS Design

Knitted and felted basket with multi-coloured star pattern in DROPS Snow. Theme: Christmas

DROPS Extra 0-1332
DROPS design: Pattern no ee-581
Yarn group E or C + C
Measurements before felting: Diameter: approx. 36 cm Height: approx. 24 cm
Measurements after felting: Diameter: approx. 23 cm Height: approx. 14 cm
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
200 g colour no 46, medium grey
150 g colour no 01, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 8 mm - or size needed to get 11 sts x 15 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm before felting.
After felting: approx. 13 sts x 25 rows = 10 x 10 cm.


Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


100% Wool
from 1.40 £ /50g
DROPS Snow uni colour DROPS Snow uni colour 1.40 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Snow mix DROPS Snow mix 1.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

See diagram A.1. Work all sts in stocking st.

Worked in the round.

Cast on 8 sts on double pointed needles size 8 mm with medium grey.
ROUND 1: K all sts. 
ROUND 2: * K 1, 1 YO *, repeat from *-*.
ROUND 3: K all sts - K the YOs twisted (i.e. work in the back loop of sts instead of front) to avoid holes (= 16 sts). 
ROUND 4: * K 2, 1 YO *, repeat from *-*.
ROUND 5: As 3rd round (= 24 sts).
ROUND 6: * K 3, 1 YO *, repeat from *-*.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION Repeat 5th and 6th round but on every inc there is 1 st more between inc (switch to circular needle when needed).
When there are 112 sts on needle, K 1 round while inc 13 sts evenly = 125 sts. The bottom is now done. P 1 round. Now measure the piece from here.
Work in stocking st in the round until piece measures 4 cm. Now work A.1 (= 25 sts) 5 times on round. When entire diagram has been worked vertically, work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above, with off white. Loosely cast off - make sure that the cast-off edge is not too tight.

Place the basket in the washing machine with a detergent without enzymes and optical bleach. Wash at 40 degrees with normal spin but no pre-wash. After wash shape the basket to the right size while still wet and leave to dry flat. At subsequent wash, hand wash the basket as a regular wool garment.

If the piece is not felted enough and is too big: Wash the piece one more time in the washing machine while it is still wet add a terry towel that measures approx. 50 x 70 cm - NOTE: Do not use a short program.
If the piece has been felted too much and is too small: While the piece is still wet stretch it to the correct measurements, if the piece is dry, make sure to soak it first.
Remember: All subsequent washes are as a normal wool garment.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 22.12.2016
New yarn amount:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
200 g colour no 46, medium grey
Updated online: 12.01.2017
New chart A.1 added


symbols = medium grey
symbols = off white

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-1332) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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5) How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

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6) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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7) What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

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8) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

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9) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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10) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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11) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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13) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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14) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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15) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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16) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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17) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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18) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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19) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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20) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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21) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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22) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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23) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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24) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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25) Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (10)

country flag Terresa wrote:

I have followed pattern and re-knitted it 4 times but get a wrong count after last increase row. Pattern states I should have 112 stitches on needle before increasing by 13 stitches. I consistently have 98 or 130 stitches. I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong. Please help!

03.02.2022 - 02:42

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Teresa, you should increase 8 sts on every other round, ie on 8th round work (K4, YO)x8 times around, on 10th round (K5,YO), on 12th round (K6,YO), on 14th round (K7, YO), on 16th round (K8, YO), on 18th round (K9,YO), and so on until you work 26th round (K13, YO)x8=112 sts. Hope it will help. Happy knitting!

03.02.2022 - 08:52

country flag Celine Francoeur wrote:

Bonjour je ne vois pas d'instructions pour l'assemblage??? comment assembler le panier...couture ?

03.07.2021 - 17:07

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Francoeur, il n'y a pas d'assemblage car ce panier se tricote en rond à partir du milieu du fond (= on monte 8 m et on va augmenter tous les 2 tours jusqu'au diamètre souhaité), puis on tricote "droit" = sans augmenter en jacquard. Si vous voulez adapter ce modèle sur aiguilles droites, cette leçon pourra vous aider. Bon tricot!

05.07.2021 - 07:40

country flag Hetty Stok wrote:

When the pattern indicates to increase 13 stitches evenly across 112 stitches, what is the preferred technique of the increase stitch? Is it a ‘yo’? Or something else?

11.10.2020 - 03:02

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Hetty, increases could be done as either yarnovers that are knitted twisted in the next row, or as make one (in which you pill up the yarn between two stitch of teh previous roow, put it on the left needle twosted and knit it. I hope this helps. Happy Knitting!

12.10.2020 - 03:07

country flag Dagmar wrote:

Hallihallo, ich habe versehentlich zu lang rund gestrickt und habe jetzt für den Boden zu viele Maschen auf der Nadel. Ich überlege nun, den Durchmesser um 25 Maschen zu erhöhen, um dann das Muster immer einmal mehr zu stricken. Können Sie mir sagen, ob die genannte Wollmenge trotzdem reichen würde, oder wieviel Wolle ich von jeder Farbe nachkaufen muss? Vielen Dank für Eure Antwort! Gruss Dagmar

07.12.2018 - 13:22

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Dagmar, leider können wir nicht alle Anleitung nach jeder Anfrange kalkulieren nor anpassen. Nehmen Sie bitte Kontakt mit Ihrem DROPS Laden auf, gerne werden sie Ihnen weiterhelfen -auch telefonisch oder per E-mail. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

07.12.2018 - 14:39

country flag Marita wrote:

Hvor stor i diameter blir selve bunnen, når man har oppnådd 125m tilsammen på pinnen...? Jeg fikk den bare til å bli 26cm, men i mønsteret står d ca 36cm før toving 🙈. Ca hvor mange omganger blir det før oppnådd antall masker? Jeg gjør noe feil her, siden bunnen blir så knapp.. 🙈Og hva menes med: for hver gang det økes, blir det 1 m mer mellom økningene...? Skal jeg øke noe ITILLEGG til kastene? Hilsen en fersking 🥴

30.11.2018 - 00:43

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Marita. Du øker 8 masker på hver omgang med øking, så du må strikke 13 økeomganger for å få 112 masker på pinnen. Siden annenhver omgang er uten øking har du strikket 26 omganger, 27 med den omgangen du øker de siset 13 maskene. Siden du strikker rundt vil det si 27 omganger fra midten og ut = 54 omganger tvers over hele. Med strikkefasthet på 15 rader i høyden = 10 cm blir dette 36 cm. Kan det være du ikke overholder strikkefastheten? Det er veldig viktig for at målene skal bli riktige. 1 maske mer mellom hvert kast betyr at du strikker: 6 omg: 3 rett, 1 kast. 8 omg:4 rett, 1 kast, 10 omg: 5 rett, 1 kast osv. God fornøyelse.

30.11.2018 - 08:48

country flag Nora wrote:

Thanks for reply! I ended up tumble drying it.....pretty good result now, but the pattern area did shrink more than plain knit. But the basket is beautiful and I will try again.....thanks Drops. Only discovered Drops this year....and am loving knitting and crocheting again, your yarns and patterns are the best!

27.10.2017 - 08:46

country flag Nora wrote:

My basket has not shrunk! It has felted a bit on the base but is all disappointed. Made in Eskimo. Any help appreciated!

26.10.2017 - 14:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Nora, Eskimo is a great yarn for felting, make sure you followed all the steps for felting - see here and make sure you used a "normal" wash program. Your DROPS store will help you if you have any further questions. Happy knitting!

26.10.2017 - 15:22

country flag Barbara wrote:

Pur avendo seguito fedelmente le istruzioni, uno dei due colori, quello del fondo, non sarà sufficiente per finire la seconda parte del motivo. Dovró procurarmi il quarto gomitolo.

12.12.2016 - 00:25

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Barbara. Trasmettiamo la sua osservazione al settore design. La ringraziamo e buon lavoro!

12.12.2016 - 06:39

country flag Aleksandra wrote:

Hi, I love this! Just making it. But there is a mistake in diag A1 5th row There is 4 grey 2 off white1 grey 1 off white1 grey 3 off white and it should be 4 grey 2 off white1 grey 1 off white 2 grey 2 off white.

10.12.2016 - 18:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Aleksandra, thank you for your comment. You are right. We will correct the diagram. Happy knitting!

16.12.2016 - 23:45

country flag Patty wrote:

I love the basket. Don't think I will get to it this year, but maybe next!

06.12.2016 - 22:26

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