DROPS / 68 / 21

Bohemian Sunset by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS jacket in "Tynn Cotton Chenille" and "Muskat"

DROPS design: Pattern no H-036
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Sizes: S/M - M/L - XL
Material: DROPS Muskat from Garnstudio
100-150-150 g colour no 21, rust
100-100-100 g colour no 33, light plum
100-100-100 g colour no 39, heather
100-100-100 g colour no 49, dark orange
and use: DROPS Tynn Cotton Chenille from Garnstudio 
100-100-100 g colour no 927, dark lilac
50-100-100 g colour no 905, petrol green
50 - 50 - 50 g colour no 906, red
50 - 50 - 50 g colour no 924, deep red
50 - 50 - 50 g colour no 925, burgundy

DROPS Crochet hook size 4 mm
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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
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DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 1.60 £ /50g
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DROPS Tynn Cotton Chenille DROPS Tynn Cotton Chenille
90% Cotton, 10% Polyamide
Discontinued
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Crochet tension: 1 square with hook size 4 mm = approx. 9.5 x 9.5 cm. 4.5 treble crochet groups x 10 rows of M.1 with colour change after M.2 and hook size 4 mm = 10 x 10 cm.

Remember hook size is only a guide!

Pattern: See diagrams - M.1 and M.2. 
Colours of squares: Work 6 different squares: A, B, C, D, E and F.

Square A: 
Round 1: Petrol green Chenille no 905, Round 2: Burgundy Chenille no 925, Round 3: Rust Muskat no 21, Round 4: Dark orange Muskat no 39, Round 5: Red Chenille no 906.

Square B: 
Round1: Dark lilac Chenille no 927, Round 2: Burgundy Chenille no 925, Round 3: Light plum Muskat no 33, Round 4: Heather Muskat no 39, Round 5: Red Chenille no 906.

Square C: 
Round 1: Rust Muskat no 21, Round 2: Red Chenille no 906, Round 3: Dark orange Muskat no 49, Round 4: Rust Muskat no 21, Round 5: Deep red Chenille no 924.

Square D: 
Round 1: Dark orange Muskat no 49, Round 2: Heather Muskat no 39, Round 3: Light plum Muskat no 33, Round 4: Burgundy Chenille no 925, Round 5: Deep red Chenille no 924.

Square E: Round 1: Red Chenille no 906, Round 2: Heather Muskat no 39, Round 3: Light plum Muskat no 33, Round 4: Burgundy Chenille no 925, Round 5: Dark lilac Chenille no 927.

Square F: 
Round 1: Petrol green Chenille no 905, Round 2: Dark lilac Chenille no 927, Round 3: Heather Muskat no 39, Round 4: Light plum Muskat no 33, Round 5: Petrol green Chenille no 905.

Crochet square: The squares are worked in different colours - see description above.

Work with hook size 4 mm: 5 chain stitches with colour 1 and form them to a ring with 1 slip stitch.

Round 1: Colour 1: 3 chain stitches, 7 treble crochets in ring and then 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch from beginning of round = 8 stitches. Turn piece.
Round 2: Colour 2: 3 chain stitches + 1 treble crochet in first treble crochet from round 1 * 2 treble crochets in each treble crochet from round 1 *, repeat from *-* a total of 7 times. Finish with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch from beginning of round = 16 stitches. Turn piece.
Round 3: Colour 3: 3 chain stitches + 1 treble crochet in first treble crochet from round 2, 1 treble crochet in next treble crochet from round 2, * continue by working alternately 2 and 1 treble crochet(s) in each treble crochets from round 2 *, repeat from *-* a total of 7 times = 23 treble crochets + 3 chain stitches. Finish with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch from beginning of round. Turn piece.
Round 4: Colour 4: 3 chain stitches in first treble crochet from round 3, 4 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet in same treble crochet, * 1 treble crochet in each of the next 6 treble crochets, 4 chain stitches, 1 more treble crochet in the last of the 6 treble crochets *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, 1 treble crochet in each of the last 5 treble crochets on round, finish with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch from beginning of round. Turn piece.
Round 5: Colour 5: 3 chain stitches in first treble crochet, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 6 treble crochets, * 3 treble crochets in chain-space, 3 chain stitches, 3 treble crochets in same chain-space, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 7 treble crochets, * repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, 3 treble crochets in next chain-space, 3 chain stitches, 3 treble crochets in same chain-space, finish with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch from beginning of round.

1/2 Square: The half squares are also worked in different colours - see description above.

Work 5 chain stitches with colour 1 and form them to a ring with 1 slip stitch.

Round 1: Colour 1: 3 chain stitches, 4 treble crochets in ring. Turn piece.
Round 2: Colour 2: 3 chain stitches + 1 treble crochet in first treble crochet from previous round, 2 treble crochets in each of the next treble crochets from previous round = 10 stitches. Turn piece.
Round 3: Colour 3: 3 chain stitches + 1 treble crochet in first treble crochet from round 2, then work alternately 2 and 1 treble crochet(s) in each of the treble crochets from round 2 = 15 stitches. Turn piece.
Round 4: Colour 4: 3 chain stitches, 4 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet in same treble crochet as the 3 chain stitches, * 1 treble crochet in each of the next 7 treble crochets, 4 chain stitches, 1 more treble crochet in the last of the 7 treble crochets *, repeat from *-* a total of 2 times. Turn piece.
Round 5: Colour 5: 6 chain stitches, 3 treble crochets in chain-space, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 7 treble crochets from previous round, 3 treble crochets in chain-space, 3 chain stitches, 3 treble crochets in same chain space, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 7 treble crochets from previous round, 3 treble crochets in chain-space, 3 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet in same chain-space.
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Jacket: The front piece is worked in squares, while sleeves, back and side pieces are worked in stripes, i.e. M.1.

Back + side pieces: The back piece is worked together with the side pieces. Work with hook size 4 mm and rust Muskat, 98-114-130 loose chain stitches (incl. 1 chain stitch to turn) Next row: Work 1 double crochet in each chain stitch. Then continue with M.1 as follows: 3 treble crochets in first double crochet, * 1 chain stitch, skip 3 double crochets, 3 treble crochets in next double crochet *, repeat from *-* to end of row (= 24-28-32 treble crochet groups + 3 treble crochets on row). Work M.1 upwards with colour change after M.2. Remember the crochet tension! When piece measures approx. 30-28-36 cm decrease for armholes by working 4-5.5-7.5 treble crochet groups less in each side = 16-17-17 treble crochet groups + 3 treble crochets left on back piece. When piece measures approx. 48-48-58 cm (you have now 2 rows left - adjust so that the last row is worked in Muskat) cast off for neck by not working the middle 6.5-7.5-7.5 treble crochet groups. Work 1 row on each side of neck. The next row is worked as follows: M.1 over 4.5 treble crochet groups, continue with double crochets over the "cast off" treble crochet groups in neck - work quite tightly with 1 double crochet in each treble crochet, M.1 over 4.5 treble crochet groups. Finish off, piece measures approx. 50-50-60 cm.

Front piece: Work 4-4-5 x square A, 1-1-2 x square B, 1-1-2 x square C, 4-4-5 x square D, 2-2-2 x square E and 4-4-4 x square F = 16-16-20 squares - see description above. Then work 1/2 square B and E (= neckline).

Work the squares together with rust Muskat - see fig. 2 and 3 - Fig. 3 shows how the squares are worked together. Work first vertically, according to the thin lines, and then horizontally, according to the thick lines.

Sleeve: Work with rust Muskat and hook size 4 mm, 42-46-50 loose chain stitches (incl. 1 chain stitch to turn). Next row: Work 1 double crochet in each chain stitch. Then continue with M.1 as follows: * 3 treble crochets in first chain stitch, 1 chain stitch, skip 3 double crochets *, repeat from *-* a total of 10-11-12 times, finish with 3 treble crochets in last double crochet. Work M.1 upwards with colour change after M.2. When piece measures 10-8-10 cm increase 1/2 treble crochet group in each side - see fig. 1 - a total of 6-7-8 times every 4th-3rd-3rd row = 16-18-20 treble crochet groups. At the same time, when piece measures 28 cm (there is now 13-13-14 cm to finished length); begin to not work 2 treble crochet groups on each side. This is done so that you do not have too much "material" under the sleeves. Repeat this decrease every 5th row to finished length. Finish off when piece measures approx. 39-39-40 cm.

Assembly: All parts are worked together with rust Muskat and hook size 4 mm. Work shoulder seams and side seams in the same way as you worked together squares on front piece - see fig. 3. Work sleeves together as follows: Start at bottom with * 1 double crochet in one side, 2 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in other side, 2 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* until there are 3-4-6 rows left. Work sleeves to body in the same way as you have just worked the sleeve seams. Crochet 1 row of double crochets around the whole body, up along the bands and around the neck

Ties: Work with 2 strands rust Muskat: 2 chain stitch-cords of approx. 30 cm each. Fasten 1 in each side mid front of neck where the neckline starts. You can work 2 more cords, if you wish, and fasten these 1 square beneath the first.

Diagram

= Rust Muskat no 21
= Red Chenille no 906
= Deep red Chenille no 924
= Heather Muskat no 39
= Light plum Muskat no 33
= Burgundy Chenille no 925
= Dark lilac Chenille no 927
= Petrol green Chenille no 905
= Dark orange Muskat no 49
= 1 chain stitch
= 1 treble crochet
= 1 double crochet
= 1 treble crochet group



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 68-21) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (28)

Janke Reinders 20.12.2019 - 11:31:

In M2 gebruiken jullie 2 x dezelfde kleur, Muskat nr39 maar wordt de ene keer als dieprood en de nadere keer als heidekruid gebruikt. Hoe zit dit?

DROPS Design 26.12.2019 kl. 19:11:

Dag Janke,

Er stond inderdaad een foutje en het bovenste symbool is nu aangepast naar donker rood Chenille nr. 924. Bedankt voor het doorgeven!

Eve Suurvee 12.09.2019 - 09:36:

Hej, Jag vill gärna sticka 68-21 som man ska sticka med Muskat och Tunn Cotton Chenille. Det har angivits många olika möjligheter att byta ut Chenille garnet mot annat garn. Undrar nu vilket garn ni skulle rekommendera mig att byta ut Chernille mot när det gäller jackan 68-21. Vänliga hälsningar Eve Suurvee

DROPS Design 12.09.2019 kl. 12:19:

Hej. Vill du sticka den i bomullsgarn så kan du sticka den helt i Muskat eller så kan du välja Belle eller Cotton Light. Vill du hellre sticka den i ullgarn så är det ett av de andra garnen i garngrupp B du får välja. Lycka till!

Ana 04.08.2019 - 18:49:

En cuanto a los aumentos de la manga, en la talla pequeña, si aumento cada 4 filas, llego a los 28 cm de labor sin haber alcanzado los 16 grupos, ¿hay algún error y debo aumentar cada 3 filas?

DROPS Design 17.11.2019 kl. 20:16:

Hola Ana. El patrón está correcto. Tienes que comprobar la tensión del tejido. ( 10 filas del patrón 1 = 10 cm). Si trabajas más flojo puede ser que alcances las medidas en cm antes de trabajar todas las filas según el patrón.

Ana 04.08.2019 - 18:44:

Buenas tardes, no sé si entiendo bien las restantes disminuciones para la copa de la manga. ¿Cada 5 filas se disminuyen otros 2 grupos a cada lado? En 13 cm sólo habrá 1 o 2 disminuciones más, y quedan como escalones ¿es así como debo hacerlo?

DROPS Design 17.11.2019 kl. 20:26:

Hola Ana. Las disminuciones en el ganchillo se trabajan de la siguiente manera: al inicio de la fila se saltan los grupos de puntos altos que hay que disminuir (cortando el hilo) o se trabajan puntos enanos sobre ellos. Para disminuir al final de la fila, se termina la fila antes del número de grupos de puntos altos que hay que disminuir.

Ana 08.05.2019 - 19:08:

Buenas tardes. Me gustaría hacer una chaqueta con este patrón pero en color blanco nieve con beige mazapán. En los cuadrados las vueltas impares blancas y las pares beige. En el resto ir haciendo 2 vueltas blancas y 1 beige, además me gustaría que uno de los dos colores algo de tuviera brillo. Por favor ¿podrías recomendarme los materiales y la cantidad que necesitaría para un talla mediana? Gracias

Ida 31.01.2019 - 14:27:

Buongiorno nn capisco come diminuire per gli scalfi, cosa vuol dire lavorare su 4-5, 5-7, 5 gruppi? Poteye spiegarmi meglio come fare le diminuzioni? Grazie

DROPS Design 31.01.2019 kl. 16:47:

Buongiorno Ida. Abbiamo modificato leggermente il testo: sono gruppi di maglie alte. Quindi p.es nella taglia S/M, per gli scalfi, non deve lavorare sui primi e sugli ultimi 4 gruppi di maglie alte della riga. Analogamente per le altre taglie. Buon lavoro!

Martine 30.06.2018 - 10:43:

Petit souci... Les carrés comportent 7 B entre chaque coin. (Le coin ayant 6B + 3ml) Comment faire ensuite pour l'assemblage 3 B par 3 B ...? Merci d'avance.

DROPS Design 02.07.2018 kl. 10:46:

Bonjour Martine, le dernier rang de chaque carré a 7 brides + 3 brides dans chacun des 2 coins. Crochetez les ms de l'assemblage à intervalles réguliers le long de ces 13 brides, par ex: 1 ms dans l'arceau, sautez 3 B, 1 ms entre les brides, sautez 3 B, 1 ms dans la B suiv, sautez 3 B, 1 ms entre les B, sautez 3 B, 1 ms dans l'arceau (avec les 3 ml entre chaque ms). Bon crochet!

Cecilia 14.07.2017 - 13:07:

Buongiorno, vorrei realizzare questo modello in lana, mantenendo però l'effetto vivace (soprattutto per i colori) che appare in foto. ho visto l'elenco dei filati alternativi,ma non conoscendo la differenza tra T-C-Chenille e Muskat entramai usati in modo alternato non riesco a scegliere eventuali abbinamenti

DROPS Design 14.07.2017 kl. 13:57:

Buongiorno Cecilia I filati proposti sono filati estivi, quindi diversi in composizione e pesantezza rispetto a filati invernali. Per realizzare il capo con filati invernali, le consigliamo di seguire il proprio gusto personale in base anche alla cartella dei colori. Può usare anche un solo tipo di filato. Per un aiuto più personalizzato, può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore Drops di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

Philip 11.03.2017 - 20:37:

Bonjour Pour la realisréalisation des carrés, au 5ième rang : après avoir crocheté dans les arceaux, il faut faire 7 brides, et non pas 6 ? Merci pour tout

DROPS Design 13.03.2017 kl. 10:36:

Bonjour Philipp, il semble qu'effectivement il faut 7 B entre les 3B,3ml,3B dans chaque arceau. Une correction sera faite prochainement. Merci. Bon crochet!

Philip 13.01.2017 - 05:09:

Erreur dans les explications des carrés : Rang 5 : commencez par 3ml, puis 1B dans chacune des 5 B suivantes (et non pas 6B !!!). Merci

DROPS Design 13.01.2017 kl. 09:12:

Bonjour Philipp, au début du rang 5, on a tourné et le tour commence par 3 ml et 1 B dans chacune des 6 B du rang précédent (entre les arceaux, on a 7 B au rang 4). Bon crochet!

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