DROPS / 164 / 20

Winter Wine by DROPS Design

DROPS raglánový pulovr s pružnými lemy pletený shora dolů z příze "Air". Velikost: S-XXXL.

DROPS design: model č. ai-017
Skupina přízí: C nebo A + A
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Velikost: S – M – L – XL – XXL – XXXL

Materiál: DROPS AIR firmy Garnstudio
350-400-450-500-550-600 g, barva č.07, vínová

DROPS PONOŽKOVÉ JEHLICE a KRUHOVÉ JEHLICE (40 a 80 cm) č.5 – nebo velikosti potřebné k upletení zkušebního vzorku o rozměrech 17 ok x 22 řad lícovým žerzejem = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS PONOŽKOVÉ JEHLICE a KRUHOVÉ JEHLICE (40 a 80 cm) č.4,5 – na lemy.

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Chcete použít jinou přízi? Zkuste náš převodník!
Nejste si jistí, kterou zvolit velikost? Třeba by vám pomohla informace, že modelka na obrázku je vysoká asi 170 cm a nosí velikost S nebo M. Pokud chcete plést/háčkovat pulovr, kabátek, šaty nebo podobný kousek, najdete dole pod návodem nákres s jednotlivými mírami v cm.

65% alpaka, 28% polyamid, 7% vlna
od 103.00 Kč /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 103.00 Kč /50g
Ganella
Objednat
DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 103.00 Kč /50g
Ganella
Objednat
Jehlice a háčky
Přízi na tento model můžete mít už za 721Kč. Více zde.

Návod

RAGLÁNOVÉ ZKOSENÍ:
Na obou stranách každého raglánového „švu“ přidáme 2 oka (= přidáme 16 ok), takto:
PŘED 4 oky lícovým žerzejem a značkou: každé z následujících 2 ok rozpleteme na 2 (tj. každé oko upleteme hladce za přední i za zadní nit), pak 2 oka lícovým žerzejem = přidáme 2 oka.
ZA značkou a 2 oky lícovým žerzejem: každé z následujících 2 ok rozpleteme na 2 = přidáme 2 oka.

Na obou stranách každého raglánového „švu“ přidáme 1 oko (= přidáme 8 ok), takto:
PŘED 2 oky lícovým žerzejem a značkou: 1x nahodíme, 2 oka upleteme lícovým žerzejem.
ZA značkou: upleteme 2 oka lícovým žerzejem, 1x nahodíme.
V následující kruhové řadě pleteme nahození hladce za zadní nit, aby se v pletenině netvořily dírky.

TIP – PŘIDÁVÁNÍ:
Přidáváme takto:
PŘED 2 oky lícovým žerzejem a značkou: 1x nahodíme, 2 oka upleteme lícovým žerzejem.
ZA značkou: upleteme 2 oka lícovým žerzejem, 1x nahodíme.
V následující kruhové řadě pleteme nahození hladce za zadní nit, aby se v pletenině netvořily dírky.

TIP – UJÍMÁNÍ:
Pleteme po poslední 3 oka PŘED značkou, 2 oka spleteme hladce, 1 oko upleteme hladce.
ZA značkou upleteme 1 oko hladce, další oko sejmeme hladce, pak 1 oko upleteme hladce a sejmuté přes ně přetáhneme.
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PULOVR:
Pleteme shora dolů, tj. od okraje průkrčníku k dolnímu okraji, v kruhových řadách na kruhové jehlici. Rukávy pleteme v kruhových řadách na krátké kruhové jehlici a ponožkových jehlicích.

SEDLO:
Na kruhovou jehlici č. 4,5 nahodíme přízí Air 64-72-76-84-88-92 ok a upleteme 1 kruhovou řadu hladce. Dál pleteme pružným vzorem 2/2 (tj. střídáme 2 oka hladce, 2 obrace) do výše 4 cm. Pak upleteme 1 kruhovou řadu hladce a SOUČASNĚ přidáme rovnoměrně 8-8-8-12-24-32 ok = 72-80-84-96-112-124 ok. Pleteninu převedeme na kruhovou jehlici č.5. Pokračujeme takto – začínáme uprostřed zadního dílu: 11-13-14-17-21-24 ok hladce (= polovina zadního dílu), vložíme značku, 14 ok hladce (= rukáv), vložíme značku, 22-26-28-34-42-48 ok hladce (= přední díl), vložíme značku, 14 ok hladce (= rukáv), vložíme značku, 11-13-14-17-21-24 ok hladce (= polovina zadního dílu). Pleteme lícovým žerzejem a SOUČASNĚ v následující kruhové řadě začneme přidávat pro RAGLÁNOVÉ ZKOSENÍ – viz výše! Přidáváme 2 oka na obou stranách každé značky, a to v každé 2. kruhové řadě, celkem 2-3-4-4-5-6x. Pak přidáváme 1 oko na obou stranách každé značky, a to v každé 2. kruhové řadě, celkem 18-18-18-19-19-19x = 248-272-292-312-344-372 ok. Díl měří 22-23-24-25-26-27 cm (od ramene). Nyní pleteme takto: upleteme prvních 33-37-40-44-50-55 ok (= polovina zadního dílu), následujících 58-62-66-68-72-76 ok odložíme na pomocnou jehlici (= rukáv), nahodíme 8 nových ok (= podpaží; doprostřed těchto nových ok vložíme značku), upleteme dalších 66-74-80-88-100-110 ok (= přední díl), následujících 58-62-66-68-72-76 ok odložíme na pomocnou jehlici (= rukáv), nahodíme 8 nových ok (= podpaží; doprostřed těchto nových ok vložíme značku), upleteme zbylých 33-37-40-44-50-55 ok (= polovina zadního dílu). NYNÍ MĚŘÍME DÍL OD TOHOTO MÍSTA.

TRUP:
V kruhové řadě máme nyní 148-164-176-192-216-236 ok trupu. Pleteme lícovým žerzejem. Ve výši 4 cm ujmeme na obou stranách každé značky 1 oko - viz TIP - UJÍMÁNÍ! Toto ujímání opakujeme vždy po 4-4,5-5-5,5-6-6,5 cm výšky ještě 2x = 136-152-164-180-204-224 ok. Ve výši 18-19-20-21-22-23 cm přidáme na obou stranách každé značky 1 oko - viz TIP – PŘIDÁVÁNÍ. Toto přidávání opakujeme vždy po 8 cm výšky ještě 2x = 148-164-176-192-216-236 ok. Ve výši 37-38-39-40-41-42 cm převedeme pleteninu na kruhovou jehlici č.4,5 a pleteme pružným vzorem 2/2. Ve výši 42-43-44-45-46-47 cm oka volně uzavřeme, takto: *uzavřeme 4 oka (= 2 hladce + 2 obrace), 1x nahodíme a nahození hned uzavřeme jako běžné oko*, *-* opakujeme.

RUKÁV:
Rukáv pleteme lícovým žerzejem v kruhových řadách na kruhové jehlici či sadě ponožkových jehlic. Pro každý rukáv máme nyní odloženo 58-62-66-68-72-76 ok.
Odložená oka jednoho rukávu vrátíme z pomocné jehlice zpět na kruhovou jehlici/ponožkové jehlice č.5 a v podpaží nahodíme 8 nových ok – doprostřed těchto nových ok vložíme značku (= střed vnitřní strany rukávu, podpaží) = 66-70-74-76-80-84 ok. Pleteme v kruhových řadách lícovým žerzejem. NYNÍ MĚŘÍME DÍL OD TOHOTO MÍSTA. Ve výši 4 cm ujmeme na obou stranách značky 1 oko – viz TIP - UJÍMÁNÍ. Toto ujímání opakujeme vždy po asi 3-2,5-2,5-2,5-2-2 cm výšky ještě 12-14-14-15-15-17x = 40-40-44-44-48-48 ok. Když je rukáv dlouhý 44-43-43-42-42-41 cm, převedeme pleteninu na ponožkové jehlice č.4,5 a pleteme pružným vzorem 2/2 nad všemi oky. Když je rukáv vysoký 48-47-47-46-46-45 cm, všechna oka dle vzoru uzavřeme.
Stejným způsobem upleteme i druhý rukáv.

DOKONČENÍ:
Sešijeme otvory v podpaží.

Schéma


Potřebujete poradit s tímto návodem?

Děkujeme, že jste si vybrali návod DROPS Design. Zakládáme si na tom, že dáváme k dispozici návody ověřené a snadno srozumitelné. Všechny návody jsou přeložené z norského originálu a tak si můžete kdykoli srovnat rozměry a počty s původním návodem (DROPS 164-20) .

Máte s návodem potíže? Níže najdete seznam odkazů, které vám pomohou dokončit vaše dílo co nejdříve - nebo se třeba přiučit něco nového.

Máme takopodrobné rozpisy různých technik a postupů krok za krokem - najdete je zde.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

nahoru

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

nahoru

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

nahoru

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

nahoru

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

nahoru

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

nahoru

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

nahoru

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

nahoru

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

nahoru

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

nahoru

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

nahoru

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

nahoru

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

nahoru

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

nahoru

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

nahoru

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

nahoru

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

nahoru

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

nahoru

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

nahoru

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

nahoru

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

nahoru

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

nahoru

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

nahoru

Pořídili jste si přízi DROPS na tento model? Pak máte taky právo žádat po svém prodejci, u něhož jste nakoupili, pomoc a rady. Seznam DROPS obchodů najdete tady!
Pořád se nemůžete dobrat odpovědi, kterou hledáte? Pak posuňte stránku dolů a napište nám svůj dotaz, naši specialisté se vám pokusí poradit. Obvykle to zvládneme během 5 až 10 pracovních dnů.. Mezitím si můžete pročíst otázky a odpovědi, které k tomuto modelu položili ostatní, nebo navštívit skupinu DROPS Workshop na Facebooku, kde vám může poradit některá spřízněná duše!

Komentáře / Otázky (50)

Lori Pennington-Joyner 05.10.2019 - 17:16:

Where can I purchase a pdf version of this pattern.

DROPS Design 05.10.2019 kl. 17:19:

Dear Lori, DROPS pattern are all free: you can print them as a .pdf with a virtual printer on your pc. Happy crafting!

Trude 14.09.2019 - 15:10:

Etter det jeg kan forstå har jeg i den minste størrelsen for lite masker til å strikke halskanten på 40 ca rundpinne. Stemmerdr det?

DROPS Design 16.09.2019 kl. 14:15:

Hei Trude. Ja, det kan nok stemme. Men bruk settpinner i noen omganger og så bytt til rundpinne. God Fornøyelse!

Jamie 03.07.2019 - 16:17:

Hi, I'm confused about cm versus inches. I measured a sweater of my husband and it shows 24 inches width x 27 inches length from the shoulder. Am I correct in that this would convert to 64 cm width and 68 cm length and I should choose the XXL sizing? I'm not used to the conversion to cm being here in the US. Thank you so much Jamie

DROPS Design 03.07.2019 kl. 17:26:

Dear Jamie, in order to find measure in cm you've to multiply inches measures per 2,54. That's means: 24" x 2.54 = 61 cm and 27" x 2.54 = 68.6 cm. Happy crafting!

Lise 10.06.2019 - 17:34:

Hello! How Can I adjust this somehow. I am 1,80 and my waist sits lower? I am size m (38). Thanks for great yarn and designs

DROPS Design 11.06.2019 kl. 08:13:

Hi Lise. You decrease towards waist 3 times over the first 13 cm of the body, then you start increasing towards hips when piece measure 19 cm. You can easily make the jumper longer, and move the waist further down by decreasing at longer intervals (ie: work more cm between each decrease). Similarly, start increasing when piece is longer and work each of the increases at longer intervals. Use your specific measurements (to waist and to hip) to calculate how many cm to spread the decreases and increases over. Happy knitting

Madlenka 06.06.2019 - 17:16:

Návod mě nadchl - pletu radši hladce než obrace a nerada sešívám :-)

Lisbeth 05.03.2019 - 11:00:

På bærestykket står det i oppskriften at man skal strikke 22-27 cm fra skulder, så deles arbeidet opp. Hvor måler man fra?

DROPS Design 08.03.2019 kl. 09:29:

Hei Lisbeth. Du kan måle fra øverst ved halskanten og rett ned langs forstykket - altså ikke mål langs raglanlinjen, men rett ned som om når du har plagget på deg. God fornøyelse

Windy 26.02.2019 - 18:03:

Buen día. Tengo un problema con la cantidad de puntos para la talla M. Tengo 80 pts de base y le sumo los 64 pts de la primera ronda de aumentos y luego los 144 de la segunda ronda de aumentos y obtengo un total de 288 pts. El patrón dice que debería obtener 292 pts. Dónde está el error? Muchas gracias.

DROPS Design 27.02.2019 kl. 22:04:

Hola Windy. Estas trabajando la talla M, es decir, la base es 80 puntos + 48 puntos de la primera parte de los aumentos + 144 puntos de la 2ª parte de los aumentos = 272 puntos después de completar los aumentos.

Daphne Harteveld 24.02.2019 - 22:40:

I chose size M and casted on 72. However, after being done with the Yoke it does look very small. I don\'t think my head would ever pass through. I am still in the beginner stage so this might be a dumb question..

DROPS Design 25.02.2019 kl. 12:11:

Dear Mrs Harteveld, make sure you get the correct tension in both width and height (= 17 sts x 22 rows = 10 x 10 cm). When casting on the sts make sure to not tighten the stitches, you can use a larger needle to cast on if required. Happy knitting!

Anna 16.02.2019 - 10:22:

Hallo, ich bin nun mit den Raglanzunahmen fertig. Fange nun mit dem stillegen für die Ärmel an. Ab wo messe ich denn die ersten Maschen für das halbe Rückenteil? Ab der Mitte zwischen der letzten und ersten Raglanzunahme? Danke :)

DROPS Design 18.02.2019 kl. 09:11:

Liebe Anna, die Runden beginnen von Anfang an in der Mitte vom Rückenteil, so beginnt die Runde in der Mitte vom Rückenteil = alle Maschen bis zum 1. Markierer = die Hälfte vom Rückenteil, die Maschen zwischen 2. und 3. Markierer = Ärmel, und so weiter. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Sharon King 12.01.2019 - 01:27:

Does this pattern contain any positive or negative ease?

DROPS Design 12.01.2019 kl. 15:26:

Dear Sharon, you can find the finished measurements of the piece on the schematics at the bottom. The modell on the picture is about 170 cm tall an wears a sime S / M. The sweater she is wearing is just about her size without any positive or negative ease. Happy Knitting!

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Rádi bychom věděli, co si o tomto modelu myslíte!

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Z galerie #dropsfan

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Holly, Canada

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