Summer in Paris by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jumper with lace pattern, vent and raglan in ”Paris”. Worked top down. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 159-10
DROPS design: Pattern no w-554
Yarn group C or A + A
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
500-550-600-650-750-800 g colour no 01, apricot

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 and 80 cm) SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 33 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
1 meter peach silk ribbon approx. 1½ cm wide.


Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


100% Cotton
from 1.10 £ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 1.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (worked in the round):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

See diagrams A.1-A.2. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS. Do not work YOs twisted on next round/row, they should make holes.

DECREASE TIP-1 (applies to vent):
All dec are done from RS.
Dec before 1 edge st as follows: K 2 tog.
Dec after 1 edge st as follows: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to body and sleeves):
All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows before marker: Work until 3 sts remain before marker, K 2 tog, K 1.
Dec as follows after marker: K 1, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

INCREASE TIP (applies to body):
Work until 1 st remains before marker, 1 YO, K 2, 1 YO = 2 sts inc. On next round K YOs twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front) to avoid holes.

Piece is worked back and forth from mid back, then worked in the round on circular needle. Cast on 76-76-80-84-88-92 sts on circular needle size 5 mm with Paris. K 1 row while AT THE SAME TIME inc 24-24-32-32-32-36 sts evenly = 100-100-112-116-120-128 sts. Work next row as follows: 2 sts in garter st, A.1 (= 2 sts) until 2 sts remains, finish with 2 sts in garter st. Then work in GARTER ST - see explanation above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION

On next row (= RS) inc for raglan as follows: K 15-15-17-19-20-22, 1 YO, A.2 (= 5 sts), 1 YO, K 10-10-12-10-10-10, 1 YO, A.2, 1 YO, K 30-30-34-38-40-44, 1 YO, A.2, 1 YO, K 10-10-12-10-10-10, 1 YO, A.2, 1 YO, K 15-15-17-19-20-22 (= 8 sts inc). YOs that are not included in A.2 are K twisted on nex row, they should not make holes. Repeat inc every other row 3-5-8-12-16-20 more times, then every 4th row 8-8-7-6-5-4 times, then every 6th row 1 time.

Dec for vent mid back AT THE SAME TIME inc for raglan. All dec are done from RS! On first row from RS dec 1 st inside 1 edge st in each side of piece - Read DECREASE TIP-1! Repeat dec every 8th row 6 more times.

When raglan inc and vent are done, work next row as follows from RS: K 21-23-27-32-36-41, K the next 3 (= the first 3 sts in A.2), slip the next 40-44-50-54-60-66 sts on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8 sts under sleeve, insert 1 marker in the middle of these 8 sts, K the next 62-66-74-84-92-102 sts (= front piece), slip the next 40-44-50-54-60-66 sts on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8 sts under sleeve, insert 1 marker in the middle of these 8 sts, K the next 3 (= last 3 sts of A.2), K 21-23-27-32-36-41, cast on 14 sts at the end of row (over vent).

Work around on circular needle.
= 140-148-164-184-200-220 sts. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. There are now 70-74-82-92-100-110 sts on each side of each marker in the sides.
Now continue piece in stocking st. When piece measures 3 cm from new sts under arms, dec 1 st on each side of each markers (= 4 sts dec) - READ DECREASE TIP-2! Repeat dec every 3-4-4-3-3-4 cm 3-2-2-4-4-3 more times = 124-136-152-164-180-204 sts. When piece measures 37-39-41-43-45-47 cm, inc 1 st on each side of each marker (= 4 sts inc) – see INCREASE TIP. Repeat inc every 2-1½-2-1½-1-2 cm 5-6-5-6-7-5 more times = 148-164-176-192-212-228 sts. When piece measures 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm in total, work 1 ridge over 3 sts on each side of each marker (= 6 sts in garter st in each side of piece), work the other sts in stocking st. Then divide the piece at each marker and finish front and back piece separately.

= 74-82-88-96-106-114 sts. Continue in stocking st with 3 sts in garter st in each side of piece. When piece measures 59-61-63-65-67-69 cm in total, work 1 ridge over all sts. Cast off.

Work as front piece.

Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles. Slip the 40-44-50-54-60-66 sts from stitch holder back on double pointed needles size 5 mm. Insert 1 marker in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Cast on 8 new sts under sleeve, insert 1 marker in the middle of these 8 sts = 48-52-58-62-68-74 sts. Work A.1. Then work piece in stocking st. When piece measures 6 cm, dec 1 st on each side of marker - READ DECREASE TIP-2. Repeat dec every 7-4-3-2½-2-1½ cm 4-6-8-9-11-13 more times = 38-38-40-42-44-46 sts. When piece measures 41-41-40-40-39-39 cm, work 2 ridges. Cast off. Work the other sleeve the same way.

Sew the opening under the sleeves. Divide the silk ribbon in two, fold the cutting edge inwards and fasten it at the top of vent, tie a bow.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 03.06.2015
Correction: New info added about measurments on body.
Updated online: 04.11.2016
New chart A.1 added.


symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = K 2 tog, 1 YO
symbols = 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 159-10) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (57)

country flag Leea wrote:

Hei, kaikissa Dropsin ohjeissa, myös tässä, on maininta "kaikki kerrokset oikein", myös pyöröpuikko-ohjeissa, jolloin siis kuitenkin pitää neuloa vuorotellen oikeaa, seuraava kerros nurjaa jne, jolloin siis sana "aina" oikeaa (tai kaikki kerrokset oikeaa) on harhaanjohtava, ja aluksi jouduin vähän miettimään asiaa. Olisi ehkä hyvä tarkentaa käännöstekstiä.

31.03.2021 - 05:58

country flag Claude wrote:

Bonjour je continue ce modele mais je ne comprends pas comment et à quel moment on fait les fentes des côtés ?

14.03.2021 - 12:46

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Claude, le pull est tricoté de haut en bas, donc les fentes cotes sont effectuees a la fin (on divise l’ouvrage aux marqueurs pour terminer le devant et le dos séparément en allers et retours). Suivez les explications. Bon tricot!

14.03.2021 kl. 18:56

country flag Claude wrote:

Bonjour je tricote ce modèle et j’aimerai connaître la hauteur de la fente pour la taille S. j’ai terminé toutes les augmentations pour le raglan (rangs au point mousse) la hauteur donnée est de 16cm moi je trouve 14 cm sur mon travail, j’utilise une laine et des aiguilles n•4 comme le catalogue ,est ce que je dois continuer qql rangs de point mousse pour atteindre les 16cm? et que fait-on des 3mailles pour A2?

27.09.2020 - 17:00

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Claude, avez-vous le bon échantillon? autrement dit 17 m x 33 rangs point mousse = 10 x 10 cm? La fente se termine avec la fin de l'empiècement - autrement dit, l'ouvrage doit mesurer 16 cm depuis le rang de montage (en taille S) ou 21 cm depuis l'épaule. Si votre tension en hauteur n'est pas juste, continuez jusqu'à la hauteur indiquée dans le schéma sinon l'emmanchure sera trop courte. Bon tricot!

28.09.2020 kl. 10:19

country flag Anaïs wrote:

Bonjour, je ne suis pas sûre de bien comprendre le début du modèle. Le rang 2, qui comprend le début des répétitions du motif A1 est-il sur l'envers du tricot ? Si oui, comment doit-on tricoter le 3e rg de A1 (les deux m ens et le jeté) ? Car on est alors aussi sur l'env. Si non, y a-t-il un rang de point mousse après les 5 rgs pour faire A1 afin de retomber sur l'end pour la suite des instructions ?

04.07.2019 - 00:37

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Anaïs, le 1er rang se tricote sur l'endroit, on va ainsi commencer A.1 sur l'envers (= 1er rang de A.1 = à l'end sur l'envers, 2ème rang, à l'endroit sur l'endroit, 3ème rang: 2 m ens à l'end, 1 jeté, 4ème rang: à l'envers sur l'endroit et 5ème rang = à l'ennd sur l'envers) - tricotez A.1 avec 2 m point mousse de chaque côté et après A.1 = sur l'endroit, commencez à augmenter pour le raglan et tricotez A.2 à chaque raglan. Bon tricot!

04.07.2019 kl. 09:43

country flag Amélie wrote:

Bonjour, j'avance tout doucement mais sûrement dans le tricot de ce très beau pull et j'en suis à l'endroit où il faut tricoter en jersey jusqu'à 37 cm de hauteur avant de faire des augmentations mais ces 37 cm sont mesurés depuis le niveau des épaules jusqu'en bas ou à partir du milieu du col jusqu'en bas ? Merci beaucoup pour votre réponse !

07.04.2019 - 15:32

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Amélie, mesurez les 37 cm depuis le rang de montage. Bon tricot!

08.04.2019 kl. 12:03

country flag Jenny wrote:

Hallo, stimmen die Maßangaben? Laut Anleitung wird nach den Raglanzunahmen ab unter den Achseln gemessen. Abgekettet wird bei 60 cm - so lang ist der Pulli laut Skizze insgesamt. Wenn ich die Maße also ab unter den Achseln nehme, wird der Pulli viel zu lang...

22.10.2018 - 12:20

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Jenny, 60 cm sind für die gesamte Länge vom Pullover, Raglan (Passe) mißt 16 cm vom Hals und 21 cm vom Schulter. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

22.10.2018 kl. 14:19

country flag Malene wrote:

Blir ikke kvitt meg enda! Etter A.1. Står det "På neste p (= retten) økes det til raglan slik". Med retten, menes det da at det er den glattstrikkede siden, men som er på innsiden av genseren? Eller har jeg lagt opp med feil hånd? Den siden med mest vrangstrikk er jo utsiden av genseren, og det jeg tenker som den "rette" siden.

06.04.2017 - 18:23

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Marlene, Ja, retten er den siden som du har strikket i glattstrikk (som burde være på utsiden) og vrangen er på innsiden. Mvh, Deirdre

07.04.2017 kl. 09:04

country flag Malene wrote:

Så etter pinnen med kast, så strikker jeg en vanlig pinne til hvor kastene blir strikket vridd, også neste pinne igjen begynner jeg på A.1?

05.04.2017 - 08:59

DROPS Design answered:

Hej igen, etter pinnen med kast, så strikker du første pinne i A.1 men hvor kastene strikkes vridd. (Kasten i A.1 skal ikke strikkes vridd de skal lage hull) God fornøjelse!

05.04.2017 kl. 15:49

country flag Malene wrote:

Hei! Etter jeg har lagt opp x maskeantall og strikket én pinne hvor jeg har økt med kast, skal jeg strikke de kastene vridd rett på neste pinne, eller skal det bli hull fra kastene, og jeg skal strikke A.1. over de?

02.04.2017 - 19:21

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Malene, efter første økning strikker du kasten vridd, hullerne i halsen skal strikkes ifølge A.1. Ja du strikker A.1 som der står i opskriften. God fornøjelse!

03.04.2017 kl. 14:33

country flag Lisa wrote:

Hej! Jag har en fråga angående ökningarna och längden på oket. Jag har tolkat utökningarna i vartannat varv som att det då blir två ökningar per rapport av A.2 och ökningarna på vart fjärde varv som att jag ska öka i början på varje A.2 och har nu bara två stycken raglanökningar kvar och arbetet mäter nu 11 cm vilket verkar alldeles för kort. Har jag tolkat mönstret fel?

19.02.2017 - 09:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hej, du ökar till raglan på varje sida av A.2 med omslag som du stickar vridna på nästa varv. Du ökar 8 m varje gång, först på vartannat v och sedan på vart 4:e varv och sist på 6:ev. Lycka till!

02.03.2017 kl. 08:50

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