DROPS / 162 / 3

Just Me by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS jumper with lace pattern in ”Cotton Light”. Size: S - XXXL.

  • Just Me / DROPS 162-3 - Crochet DROPS jumper with lace pattern in ”Cotton Light”. Size: S - XXXL.
  • Just Me / DROPS 162-3 - Crochet DROPS jumper with lace pattern in ”Cotton Light”. Size: S - XXXL.
  • Just Me / DROPS 162-3 - Crochet DROPS jumper with lace pattern in ”Cotton Light”. Size: S - XXXL.
  • Just Me / DROPS 162-3 - Crochet DROPS jumper with lace pattern in ”Cotton Light”. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS design: Pattern no cl-042
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio
500-550-650-700-750-850 g colour no 08, ice blue

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 mm – or size needed to get 16 tr x 8 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 0.65 £ /50g
DROPS Cotton Light uni colour DROPS Cotton Light uni colour 0.65 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.50£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1-A.2.

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first tr at beg of every tr row with 3 ch.

3 TR TOG:
Work 3 tr into 1 tr as follows: * Work 1 tr but wait with last pull through (= 2 strands on hook) *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, then work next tr but on last pull through, pull yarn through all sts on hook.
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BACK PIECE:
Work back and forth. Work 94-101-108-122-129-143 ch on hook size 4.5 mm with Cotton Light. Work 1 tr in 4th ch from hook (= 2 tr), 1 tr in each of the next 5 ch, * 1 tr in each of the next 6 ch, skip 1 ch *, repeat from *-* until 1 ch remains, 1 tr in last ch = 80-86-92-104-110-122 tr. Then work as follows: 3 ch - READ CROCHET INFO, skip 1 tr (replaced by the 3 ch), A.1 (= 6 sts) 13-14-15-17-18-20 times in total, finish with 1 tr in last tr. Continue pattern like this. Eyelet holes in A.1 goes diagonally towards the left 2 sts on every row (seen from RS) until hole meets the one tr in left side of piece. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, repeat A.z until finished measurements. Fasten off when piece measures 40-41-42-43-44-45 cm. Now work pattern as before over the middle 68-74-80-80-86-98 sts (= 6-6-6-12-12-12 sts in each side for armhole). When piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm, adjust so that next row is from RS. Work over the first 20-23-24-24-24-31 sts (= shoulder) as follows: Work 1 tr in every tr and 2 tr in every ch-space = 20-23-24-24-24-31 tr. Work 2 rows with 1 tr in every tr. Fasten off. Do the same on the other shoulder

FRONT PIECE:
Work as back piece but work A.2 instead of A.1, i.e. eyelet holes goes diagonally towards the right (seen from RS). Repeat A.x until finished measurements. When piece measures 45-47-48-50-51-53 cm, adjust after a whole repetition of A.x dec for neck (next row is from WS) as follows: Work as before over the first 31-34-37-37-40-46 tr, work 3 TR TOG - see explanation above. Turn piece. Repeat this dec on every row toward mid-front 7-7-8-8-9-9 times in total = 20-23-24-24-25-31 sts remain for shoulder. Then work 1 row with 1 tr in every tr and 2 tr in every ch-space. Work 2 rows with 1 tr in every tr. Fasten off. Do the same on the other shoulder

SLEEVE:
Work back and forth. Work 45-45-49-49-52-52 ch on hook size 4.5 mm with Cotton Light. Work 1 tr in 4th ch from hook (= 2 tr), 1 tr in each of the next 5-5-7-7-5-5 ch, * 1 tr in each of the next 6 ch, skip 1 ch *, repeat from *-* until 1-1-3-3-1-1 ch remains, 1 tr in the last 1-1-3-3-1-1 ch = 38-38-42-42-44-44 tr. Work 1 tr in each of the first 1-1-3-3-1-1 tr, A.2 until 1-1-3-3-1-1 tr remain, (= 6-6-6-6-7-7 times in width), 1 tr in each of the last 1-1-3-3-1-1 tr. When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, repeat A.x until finished measurements. When piece measures 8-8-8-10-10-10 cm, inc 1 tr by working 2 tr in first and last tr on row (= 2 tr inc). Repeat inc every 4½-4-4-3-3-2½ cm 9-10-10-12-12-14 more times = 58-60-64-68-70-74 sts. Work the inc sts in pattern. NOTE: There is always 1 tr (or 3 ch = 1 tr) in each side of piece. Fasten off when piece measures 52-52-51-51-51-48 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders). Work another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Work the shoulder seams tog from WS as follows through both layers: 1 dc in first tr, * 1 ch, skip 1 tr, 1 dc in next tr *, repeat from *-*. Sew in sleeves. Work the under arm seams and side seams tog from WS as follows through both layers: * 1 dc in outer loop, 3 ch, skip 1 row *, repeat from *-* until approx. 10 cm remain on body for vent in each side. Fasten off.

NECK EDGE:
Work an edge around the neck as follows from mid on top of shoulder: 1 dc, * 3 ch, skip approx. 1 cm, 1 dc *, repeat from *-* around the entire neck and finish with 1 sl st in first dc on round. Fasten off.

Diagram

symbols = ch
symbols = tr in tr
symbols = tr in ch-space
symbols = first row is explained in pattern
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 162-3) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (159)

country flag Tarragnat 06.04.2021 - 01:31:

Bonjour, Peux t'on adapter un modèle tricot en modèle crochet ? Merci

user icon DROPS Design 06.04.2021 kl. 14:53:

Bonjour Mme Tarragnat, probablement, mais nous n'aurons pas de tutos pour ceci. Ce modèle précisément se fait au crochet. Bon crochet!

country flag Monica 01.04.2021 - 09:31:

Salve, non sono riuscita a trovare suggerimenti o video per capire come cucire al meglio la maglia ad uncinetto che non è omogenea , ma ha una lavorazione. Dove posso trovare? Sono brava a seguire la lavorazine, ma a cucire no: dove guardo per imparare bene? Grazie

user icon DROPS Design 03.04.2021 kl. 20:06:

Buonasera Monica, deve cucire nella maglie più esterne per avere una cucitura invisibile, purtroppo non abbiamo video in merito. Buon lavoro!

country flag Raquel 29.03.2021 - 14:09:

Hola, estoy empezando a hacer este modelo pero en la tercera vuelta cuando empiezo el patron a1 si cuando las 3 cadenetas como el primer punto en el arco al finalizar la vuelta me quedan 85 puntos en lugar de 86 como indica el modelo m.

user icon DROPS Design 07.04.2021 kl. 23:44:

Hola Raquel, el patrón es correcto, deberían salirte los 86 puntos. Al no poder ver la labor desde aquí, te recomendamos contactar con la tienda DROPS más cercana para obtener ayuda personalizada.

country flag Diane Leue 02.09.2020 - 02:37:

Goedemorgen Ik heb dit model gehaakt maar de mouw is te smal om in het armsgat te zetten . Ik heb een small gehaakt en gemaakt zoals het er staat en de maten kloppen zoals beschreven wel, alleen de mouw past er niet in, ook niet als ik er aan trek, het scheelt zeker 8 cm. Zou ik hier een reactie op kunnen krijgen op wat er fout is gedaan en het eventuele goede patroon doorgestuurd kunnen krijgen....zonde als ik niet verder kan. Met vriendelijke groet Diane

user icon DROPS Design 03.09.2020 kl. 13:31:

Dag Diane,

Als het goed is zouden de afmetingen inderdaad moeten kloppen. Als je de mouw klaar hebt, heb je 58 steken en bij de juiste stekenverhouding, zoals aangegeven in het patroon, zou je dan op een omtrek van 36 cm moeten komen, wat overeenkomt met de matentekening. Het wil nog wel eens gebeuren bij haken dat, wanneer je te veel op het uiteinde van de haaknaald haakt, de steken te klein worden, waardoor het werk te smal wordt. Als het kledingstuk verder wel past, zou je de laatste paar toeren uit kunnen halen en op nieuw kunnen haken, evt. met een dikkere haaknaald.

country flag Marie-Christine 26.05.2020 - 18:21:

Merci ! Dans la vidéo \"comment crocheter une bride\" , on fait un jeté puis on passe la laine dans une boucle, puis un jeté et on passe dans les deux boucles suivantes, puis un troisième jeté et on passe dans les deux dernières boucles, mais dans la vidéo \"comment crocheter A1\", on ne fait pas le premier jeté passé dans une boucle... Les brides ne sont-elles pas moins hautes si on s\'y prend en deux fois au lieu de trois ?

user icon DROPS Design 27.05.2020 kl. 08:34:

Bonjour Marie-Christine, dans la vidéo de A.1 et A.2, les brides se crochètent comme d'habitude: on fait 1 jeté, puis on pique le crochet dans la maille et on ramène une boucle, on fait 1 jeté, on écoule 2 boucles, on fait 1 jeté et on écoule les 2 dernières boucles. Dans ce modèle, vous devez avoir 8 rangs (et 16 m) = 10 cm (10 cm) pensez à bien vérifier votre tension et à ajuster la taille du crochet si nécessaire. Bon crochet!

country flag Marie-Christine 22.05.2020 - 19:39:

Bonjour, Je ne comprends pas pourquoi au dos, au premier rang après les mailles chaînette, il n'y a pas de maille sautée avant la première astérisque : ça fait 12 brides (plus celle du début- bordure) sans interruption alors qu'ensuite on saute une maille toutes les six brides. Merci d'avance, MC

user icon DROPS Design 25.05.2020 kl. 08:11:

Bonjour Marie-Christine, vous pouvez commencer par sauter 1 ml avant de crocheter les 6 brides, mais le résultat devrait être sensiblement le même, ce qui compte ici, c'est bien le nombre de mailles à la fin du 1er rang, on a commencé avec plus de mailles en l'air et on va en sauter pour éviter que la chaînette de base ne soit trop serrée. Bon crochet!

country flag Birgitta 12.04.2020 - 11:00:

Hej! Kan jag få hjälp med detta?: "Klipp av och fäst tråden när arb mäter 40-41-42-43-44-45 cm. Nu virkas det mönster över de mittersta 68-74-80-80-86-98 m (= 6-6-6-12-12-12 m i varje sida för ärmhål)" Om jag virkar mönster över de mittersta 80 m (i mitt fall), så blir det ju fler än 6 m (i mitt fall) kvar till ärmhål på varje sida? Tackar i förväg för snabbt svar!

user icon DROPS Design 14.04.2020 kl. 11:01:

Hej Du har 92 m totalt och så virkar du över de mittersta 80 m så då har du 12 m kvar (6 m på varje sida till ärmhål). Mvh DROPS Design

country flag Marie 12.01.2020 - 12:53:

Liebes Drops-Team, wie rechne ich die Maschenzahl auf Kindergrößen runter, hier 152 bzw. 164. Vielen Dank im Voraus für eure Hilfe, Marie

user icon DROPS Design 13.01.2020 kl. 09:52:

Liebe Marie, leider können wir jeder Anleitung nach jedem individuellen Frage anpassen und einzelne Modelle auf individuellen Wunsch hin umrechnen. Wenn sie Hilfe damit brauchen, wenden Sie sich bitte an dem Laden wo Sie die Wolle gekauft haben, dort hilft man Ihnen gerne weiter. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

country flag Valerie Smith 04.09.2019 - 13:14:

Can i use crochet thread size 3 or 10 in this pattern

user icon DROPS Design 04.09.2019 kl. 13:59:

Dear Mrs Smith, please find more informations about the yarn used under its shadecard. Happy crocheting!

country flag Annikki Nilsson 23.08.2019 - 09:46:

Hej jag har problem med avmaskning för halsen på framstycket. Behöver en utförligare beskrivning. Tack på förhand. Annikki Nilsson

user icon DROPS Design 10.09.2019 kl. 14:57:

Hej Annikki, du virkar första halva delen av maskorna på framstycket (31-34-37-37-40-46st) och virkar ihop nästa 3 st - se 3 ST TILLS - överst i mönstret. Vänd arbetet och sticka tillbaka, nu minskar du såhär värje gång du virkar sista 3 maskorna mot mitt fram. Lycka till!

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