DROPS / 158 / 3

Take It Easy by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jumper in garter st with round yoke, worked top down in "Alpaca". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no z-677
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
300-350-400-400-450-500 g colour no 2925, rust

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 2.5 mm - for edges in garter st.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON NO 521: 3-3-3-4-4-4 pieces

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.30 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle/double pointed needles): * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making a YO. On next row K YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front) to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 st before marker as follows: Work until 2 sts remain before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec 1 st after marker as follows: K 2 tog.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes in band sts on left shoulder. 1 buttonhole = K tog third and fourth st from edge and make 1 YO.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures (measured from cast-on edge):
SIZE S: 1, 8 and 15 cm
SIZE M: 1, 9 and 17 cm
SIZE L: 1, 9 and 17 cm
SIZE XL: 1, 7, 13 and 19 cm
SIZE XXL: 1, 8, 15 and 22 cm
SIZE XXXL: 1, 8, 15 and 22 cm
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JUMPER:
The piece is worked top down.

YOKE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 114-118-122-126-130-134 sts (incl 6 band sts in one side of piece) on circular needle size 3 mm with Alpaca. Work 1 ridge in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Insert 8 markers in piece from RS as follows: K 6, insert 1st marker, K 20 (= sleeve), insert 2nd marker, K 5, insert 3rd marker, K 24-26-28-30-32-34 (= back piece), insert 4th marker, K 5, insert 5th marker, K 20 (= sleeve), insert 6th marker, K 5, insert 7th marker, K 23-25-27-29-31-33, insert 8th marker, finish with K 6 band sts (= front piece). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Now work piece in garter st.
Remember BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above. Then inc 1 st – READ INCREASE TIP, after 1st-3rd-5th and 7th marker and before 2nd-4th-6th and 8th marker (= 8 sts inc). Repeat inc every 4th row 20-22-23-24-26-28 more times. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 4-3-2-2-2-1½ cm, inc as follows: Inc 4 sts evenly on back piece, 1 st on each sleeve and 4 sts evenly on front piece (= 10 sts inc). Repeat inc every 4-3-2-2-2-1½ cm 3-5-7-9-9-11 more times. When all inc are done there are 322-362-394-426-446-486 sts on needle. Piece measures approx. 18-19-20-21-23-24 cm.

Work next row as follows from RS: Cast off the first 6 sts, slip the next 66-72-76-80-84-90 sts on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 10-10-10-12-12-12 new sts, insert 1 marker in the middle of the new sts, K 92-106-118-130-136-150 sts, slip the next 66-72-76-80-84-90 sts on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 10-10-10-12-12-12 new sts, insert 1 marker in the middle of the new sts, work the next 92-106-118-130-136-150 sts = 204-232-256-284-296-324 sts. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
Work piece in the round on circular needle in stocking st. When piece measures 4 cm, dec 1 st on each side of markers in the side - READ DECREASE TIP (= 4 sts dec). Repeat dec every 8-4-4-3-7-10 cm 3-6-7-9-4-3 more times = 188-204-224-244-276-308 sts. When piece measures 36-37-38-39-39-40 cm, switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm. Work 5 ridges –see explanations above. Cast off.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Slip the 66-72-76-80-84-90 sts from stitch holder back on double pointed needles size 3 mm. Cast on 10-10-10-12-12-12 new sts under sleeve, insert 1 marker in the middle of the new sts = 76-82-86-92-96-102 sts. Work in stocking st. When piece measures 4 cm, dec 1 st on each side of marker. Repeat dec every 4-3-2½-2-2-1½ cm 9-12-13-15-16-18 more times = 56-56-58-60-62-64 sts. Work in stocking st until piece measures 44-44-43-43-42-42 cm. Switch to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm. Work in garter st. Cast off when piece measures 47-47-46-46-45-45 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders). Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew tog under sleeves. Place band on the back of yoke and fasten. Sew on buttons.

Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 158-3) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (72)

Hanne Skaaning 02.03.2019 - 14:48:

Ang. rygstk. Medium Starter med 26 masker Udtagninger 22 gange =44 masker Udtagning hver 3 cm. 5 gange a 4 masker= 20 masker I alt 90 masker men der står at der skal være 106 masker hvor finder jeg de resterende?

DROPS Design 04.03.2019 kl. 13:49:

Hei Hanne. Du øker ved merkene totalt 23 ganger. Den første gangen (som forklart) og videre 22 ganger TIL (altså i tillegg). Du har da økt 46 masker. I tillegg har du økt 4 masker 6 ganger på bakstykket = 24 masker. Du har derfor 26 + 46 + 24 = 96 masker på baktsykket. De 5 maskene i hver side, mellom merkene i overgangen mellom bol og ermer strikkes nå også som en del av baktstykket: 96 + 5 +5 = 106 masker på bakstykket. God fornøyelse

Pia Guri 12.09.2018 - 13:47:

Hej Drops. Tak for den fine opskrift. Jeg kunne aldrig finde på at strikke den i Drops uldgarner. Jeg strikker den i økologisk uld, hvor der er focus på Dyrevelfærd. Garnprisen er næsten den samme. Ærgerligt at Drops ikke går frem, med nogle gode eksempler. Hilsen Pia.

Catherine 02.05.2018 - 17:54:

Bonjour, mon échantillon est de 18 mailles 24 rangs sur 10x10cm Comment puis je recalculer les données? Catherine

DROPS Design 03.05.2018 kl. 09:00:

Bonjour Catherine, ce modèle a été écrit pour une laine plus fine, il peut être plus simple de rechercher un modèle qui convient à votre échantillon. Pour toute assistance complémentaire, merci de contacter le magasin où vous avez acheté votre laine (même par mail ou téléphone). Bon tricot!

Gaëlle MAIGA 05.12.2017 - 17:26:

Bonjour, j'ai un doute: pour poser les marqueurs, on les pose de droite à gauche sur l'endroit, de manière à tricoter et à faire les jetés au 3ème rang dans l'ordre des marqueurs? Et du coup, si tel est le cas et que j'ai bien compris, la bande de boutonnage est à gauche en fin de rang sur l'endroit? Dans ce cas, on fait les boutonnières sur l'envers? Merci pour votre réponse!

DROPS Design 06.12.2017 kl. 08:57:

Bonjour Mme Maiga, les marqueurs se placent effectivement en comptant les mailles sur l'endroit à partir du début du rang. Les boutonnières sont sur la bordure de l'épaule gauche = en début de rang sur l'endroit (on tricote de haut en bas, c'est-à-dire en commençant par l'épaule gauche et en terminant par le devant), pour les avoir sur le devant, vous pouvez les faire en début de rang sur l'envers ou en fin de rang sur l'endroit, au choix. Bon tricot!

Señorita Crochet 12.11.2017 - 23:03:

Hello! I would like to know how many ball yarns I need for an XL size of this model? As I would like to use two colors, how many for the yoke and how many for the rest? I know it will be an approximately quantity. Thank you in advance for your answer

DROPS Design 13.11.2017 kl. 02:01:

Hello, for the size XL you will need about 400 gramms (8 balls of DROPS Alpaca) yarn, if the sweater is knitted in one color. I would estimate that about 1/4th -1/3d of that goes into the yoke. You should also check the other projects uploaded to Ravely, and try to compare. Happy Knitting!

Sunniva 17.10.2017 - 12:25:

Hei, jeg lurer på hva de etiske retningslinjene er for alpacaforhandlerne dere velger å bruke? Jeg vil være sikker på at alpacabøndene garnet deres kommer fra blir behandlet bra, før jeg kjøper garnet. At alpacagarn selges så billig er jo et varsku (og det går rykter om at dere ikke har så gode etiske retningslinjer på dette), men jeg vil gjerne høre rett fra dere, heller enn å tro på ryktene.

DROPS Design 18.10.2017 kl. 08:56:

Hei Sunniva. Det er trist å høre at det går rykter at vi ikke har så gode etiske retningslinjer. Du kan trygt kjøpe Alpaca garn fra oss Vi kjøper vår Alpaca ull hos de samme spinneriene som de andre i bransjen. mvh Drops design

Jocelyne 06.05.2017 - 17:29:

Bonjour, Je viens de commencer ce pull, mais je ne vois pas comment faire l'arrondi de l'encolure devant comme sur le schéma. Devant et dos sont-ils identiques ?

DROPS Design 07.05.2017 kl. 14:07:

Chere Jocelyne! Vous commencez de haut en bas. Ensuite en augmentant des mailles comme dans les explications (la ou vous avez les marqueurs), vous obtiendrez l'arrondi de l'encolure. Bon tricot!

María Elena 28.02.2017 - 13:18:

Hola, una pregunta: cuando se sepAra el cuerpo (boda) de las mangas (sleeve), y se agregan 10 nuevos puntos , qué sucede con los 5 puntos que cuánto se trabajaba el yoke separaban cada pieza del tejido? Se cierran o se dejan en suspenso o se agregan al Delantero o espalda!? Gracias

Angela Nowicki 20.01.2017 - 19:21:

Danke!! Mit dem Video hab ich's sofort kapiert - alles eine Frage des räumlichen Vorstellungsvermögens. :)

Angela Nowicki 22.12.2016 - 19:52:

Nachdem die Blende abgekettet und der Ärmel stillgelegt ist, soll ich 12 neue Maschen unter dem Arm anschlagen und dann das Rückenteil stricken. Wie muss ich mir das räumlich vorstellen? Die neuen Maschen müssten ja das VT mit dem RT verbinden - wo fange ich an anzuschlagen, wo höre ich auf, und wie verbinde ich das Ganze mit dem RT? Und mit welcher Technik schlägt man die neuen Maschen an?

DROPS Design 29.12.2016 kl. 13:12:

Liebe Frau Nowicki, die neuen 12 Maschen für die Ärmel sind angeschlagen bei der Reihe wann Sie die ersten 6 M abketten und die Maschen für jeden Ärmel stillegen. Dann stricken Sie das Rumpfteil (Vorder- und Rückenteil beide auf einamel) in der Runde. Unten finden Sie ein Video wo man ein "Top down" Pull zeigt (mit neuen Maschen unter den Ärmel). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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